tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6450134562634879182024-03-13T01:57:36.112-07:00The Adventures of S/V SilhouetteExploring the world at 6 knots...SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.comBlogger150125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-75912320418140776182014-10-31T07:32:00.000-07:002014-10-31T07:32:47.122-07:00Navigation Challenges in Southeast Alaska and British Columbia <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">People who don’t sail or voyage by boat are often very
amazed when they hear of cruisers who go offshore for a year…or several. Their
minds conjure up “The Perfect Storm” (which is actually a rare occurrence), and
they think that you are doing something very brave. Our trip through Southeast
Alaska and British Columbia brought home a fact oft-expressed by
sailors: It is much more dangerous being
close to land than on the open ocean. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eacvcngMy-S4ynULyLwQz2lqx9cCNy1RC_xhi8V79bL3q7lfiVdaE-Rr3Z4n8tpgqrDno_xahGFh0KGUbTOOVauABF4iyaRn8K77fCWq8NwuwGaR28pFvAj75sMziv435qMj51FbQayM/s1600/Eddystone+Rock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eacvcngMy-S4ynULyLwQz2lqx9cCNy1RC_xhi8V79bL3q7lfiVdaE-Rr3Z4n8tpgqrDno_xahGFh0KGUbTOOVauABF4iyaRn8K77fCWq8NwuwGaR28pFvAj75sMziv435qMj51FbQayM/s1600/Eddystone+Rock.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Eddystone Rock in the middle of Behm Canal: an obvious hazard</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sometimes channel markers are put on rocks, which also serve to mark the hazard. </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In addition to the land itself (rocks and reefs), here are some of the many other navigation challenges we encountered when
cruising above 50 degrees North. While these navigation challenges are by no means unique to SE Alaska and British Columbia, I would say that some of them are encountered more frequently there. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Other vessel traffic:</b> This includes large traffic such as cruise
ships, eco-tourism adventure boats, high speed ferries and tug-and-tows, as
well as smaller vessel traffic such as fishing boats, tour boats, sport fishing
charter boats, and sport fishing boats. This category also includes the smallest
vessel traffic, from dinghies to kayaks to stand up paddle craft (SUPs). In some cases, this category of hazard also
includes float planes (if they are taking off or landing near your vessel.)</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQACOpYWeI-wbgJ3rxR9lEDShQcmpoTQGPm3ir6aSEQ64fScgOfgrVX_jbqzjhqqLlJ9saDlchSdfyu3rpJxiiqW9RGlLBuEi9Dc3fzZYPTU2SH4O0fkCitkInXMzgZG2JH_PPYnNQtKr1/s1600/P1130288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQACOpYWeI-wbgJ3rxR9lEDShQcmpoTQGPm3ir6aSEQ64fScgOfgrVX_jbqzjhqqLlJ9saDlchSdfyu3rpJxiiqW9RGlLBuEi9Dc3fzZYPTU2SH4O0fkCitkInXMzgZG2JH_PPYnNQtKr1/s1600/P1130288.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A small cruise ship in Baranof Warm Springs Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4r4a0SNCaznoJBgGmhwheZSXYe9dRaMV0NZLpcIPLW2MnBEaRpdTvwZ5bNT8HDV9qjGsi9MH4JHoRfwbQAKIt3C7-ufj_6YbwC5RLT1n0mciehdHu9tP-OlJ9ehObzoHnLC-Q3QliLH8/s1600/P1130265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4r4a0SNCaznoJBgGmhwheZSXYe9dRaMV0NZLpcIPLW2MnBEaRpdTvwZ5bNT8HDV9qjGsi9MH4JHoRfwbQAKIt3C7-ufj_6YbwC5RLT1n0mciehdHu9tP-OlJ9ehObzoHnLC-Q3QliLH8/s1600/P1130265.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A National Geographic Eco-tour boat in Redbluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAcZlC9WyU0tuc9l-9UKeSGUWj5GDjD13BH3C5lxfEwdSW1dbidYbOwPlce2wdjPJsWerMBBrdOEzdbIOPIoAgHjqbYipfKl36oZDiscnhaz5vLDL5m8DFOyfmkk-3uq_9kgWG9Nake8I/s1600/P1130266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAcZlC9WyU0tuc9l-9UKeSGUWj5GDjD13BH3C5lxfEwdSW1dbidYbOwPlce2wdjPJsWerMBBrdOEzdbIOPIoAgHjqbYipfKl36oZDiscnhaz5vLDL5m8DFOyfmkk-3uq_9kgWG9Nake8I/s1600/P1130266.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A flotilla of dinghies from the National Geo boat </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneB_HxHn0P9a0sA0ZgeAad_R99LVGAJI3h2IaEjcubNCTGY9GEkCYSmpzH3PbXN_fWK1EJcE8nWLloeoJDdjDDvtrDCax_L2z5A4PTTtSU590aV7JXZapU2zFgDsge11yR-nym57bjyt8/s1600/P1060654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneB_HxHn0P9a0sA0ZgeAad_R99LVGAJI3h2IaEjcubNCTGY9GEkCYSmpzH3PbXN_fWK1EJcE8nWLloeoJDdjDDvtrDCax_L2z5A4PTTtSU590aV7JXZapU2zFgDsge11yR-nym57bjyt8/s1600/P1060654.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The high speed ferry Fairweather can do 30 knots to Silhouette's 5 or 6; shown here in Peril Strait</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUZ4ioi4i8LxnNlu5m8rjv3eYsqRVt8YBJKRIJhhrP1_2XAN7C6RcuBql3FSRTqUpYNdvT5a9dHWoQ4fiUo94k7Nye6rQ04gaLKHgv-BBBZpVmh2fCA8cQmcqE9j6Nq1epP5Q3H0NNmkW/s1600/AK+State+Ferry+Columbia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUZ4ioi4i8LxnNlu5m8rjv3eYsqRVt8YBJKRIJhhrP1_2XAN7C6RcuBql3FSRTqUpYNdvT5a9dHWoQ4fiUo94k7Nye6rQ04gaLKHgv-BBBZpVmh2fCA8cQmcqE9j6Nq1epP5Q3H0NNmkW/s1600/AK+State+Ferry+Columbia.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Alaska State Ferry Columbia runs all the way to Seattle</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtAkA4SPX4T1gBeBNceVJuMORnwMggmyxsJ_ID8mcYt60p79lBvGh3hQslS-pXiqGKWLhWAD9IjhyphenhyphenAlofKIVBNQacOMkrP_6hxT2p3UOwfVYFOG20sMRhk0UvOkTk1OUjmqM-gi-d2SQO/s1600/P1090617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtAkA4SPX4T1gBeBNceVJuMORnwMggmyxsJ_ID8mcYt60p79lBvGh3hQslS-pXiqGKWLhWAD9IjhyphenhyphenAlofKIVBNQacOMkrP_6hxT2p3UOwfVYFOG20sMRhk0UvOkTk1OUjmqM-gi-d2SQO/s1600/P1090617.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One of the BC Ferries in Fraser Reach</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OR0rO58hLdD6rw9HtpQa_8JpxJy0dxsxk3S6ppnM3wyirMhjQDHpjHTkEZ9vz_lZiSx3anKc2HWcRJx0KCfPUqLfltGvN0yeM6aEteO1IgeXiflzSjXBCS-MBiqEBIARuRTjXTGUV55Y/s1600/Catamaran+Ferry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OR0rO58hLdD6rw9HtpQa_8JpxJy0dxsxk3S6ppnM3wyirMhjQDHpjHTkEZ9vz_lZiSx3anKc2HWcRJx0KCfPUqLfltGvN0yeM6aEteO1IgeXiflzSjXBCS-MBiqEBIARuRTjXTGUV55Y/s1600/Catamaran+Ferry.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A unique catamaran ferry towing its inflatable in Lynn Canal </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQMvG47fSje6tsalKpsqQmWAz3NUBlIVe9RIeqJ-0GQY-f9mdpMiv_S7AX4HWY54p3v384gsACfUYVror-qzykN0oXUFzRbim-QzrUHEVp1R0u-9nYhM7NpREbue_HKRxvlSKUJJ_-Usa/s1600/P1080184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQMvG47fSje6tsalKpsqQmWAz3NUBlIVe9RIeqJ-0GQY-f9mdpMiv_S7AX4HWY54p3v384gsACfUYVror-qzykN0oXUFzRbim-QzrUHEVp1R0u-9nYhM7NpREbue_HKRxvlSKUJJ_-Usa/s1600/P1080184.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A tour boat like this whizzed up to the glacier at high speed, slamming an iceberg into Silhouette with its wake</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b>A tug and tow exiting Sergius Narrows: We heard its Securite call and waited to enter the narrows until it cleared them</b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A tug with two tows in Grenville Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A tug...</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">....and its tow in Princess Royal Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEVYlTwuhxHAMhisryWVMPPUKuQU7p_NHbZ1pam2ZWqiuVo2ekMPCxkujcc3CSrImMJqLOC0j8KEFS4xeYAQZ951SwfEoHJnPu5t2_3Qb0fxltX4s6CngvsgLfldlU02XZWxk2doDwBgt/s1600/P1090777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEVYlTwuhxHAMhisryWVMPPUKuQU7p_NHbZ1pam2ZWqiuVo2ekMPCxkujcc3CSrImMJqLOC0j8KEFS4xeYAQZ951SwfEoHJnPu5t2_3Qb0fxltX4s6CngvsgLfldlU02XZWxk2doDwBgt/s1600/P1090777.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Colorful cargo on the tow</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzrl5lf7Q6LfVV4ib4EsGAEwzpB_NqMH0wFCjeRXml_19ZR16AQKniVrrvfz3SanrGBr1TMQPY_lcRZ2AQJ4oJLq8Y3rptvo-rcT5QlI4Y3EG5jBs7nNMVBpiq113SewLUXM4-d3EeGBB/s1600/P1090776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzrl5lf7Q6LfVV4ib4EsGAEwzpB_NqMH0wFCjeRXml_19ZR16AQKniVrrvfz3SanrGBr1TMQPY_lcRZ2AQJ4oJLq8Y3rptvo-rcT5QlI4Y3EG5jBs7nNMVBpiq113SewLUXM4-d3EeGBB/s1600/P1090776.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Containers and vehicles falling off a tow are potential hazards but rare compared to containers falling off of cargo ships at sea.</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRYEYtH8YzrY005g1AFb-u0ohmTAOC51y-ywngOv66Bh_pvB6MDc5ABRdfD2890HOWF-1oug12jQaHeiWhm6KJDdNhxCoIGSYhNWzFhz-u4uaxV1qbBXK0eXW-2vgan3V56SXtJSeVUyN/s1600/P1090305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRYEYtH8YzrY005g1AFb-u0ohmTAOC51y-ywngOv66Bh_pvB6MDc5ABRdfD2890HOWF-1oug12jQaHeiWhm6KJDdNhxCoIGSYhNWzFhz-u4uaxV1qbBXK0eXW-2vgan3V56SXtJSeVUyN/s1600/P1090305.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The seaway is also a runway</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Icebergs: </b>Unique to regions where glaciers are
found, icebergs can be encountered many miles from the glacier from which they
were calved. The most insidious icebergs are also the oldest: The ice in them is so compressed, with very
few air bubbles left inside it, that the ice is almost clear. These icebergs
take on the color of the water and are very difficult to spot ahead of time. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2c9e_itYGeHlg-9T1XQCJJDQ0CQjT4H1ZRmW4-sdmeK5pi5rIF4_ebAZNY-12A1Aj5B1tYypFG9fr0rZhORFBFDA0z0pLOl59UjC9872DpIJ_rih3tS7W7NwwkNG4HJW4bxofKzmRG_un/s1600/P1070781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2c9e_itYGeHlg-9T1XQCJJDQ0CQjT4H1ZRmW4-sdmeK5pi5rIF4_ebAZNY-12A1Aj5B1tYypFG9fr0rZhORFBFDA0z0pLOl59UjC9872DpIJ_rih3tS7W7NwwkNG4HJW4bxofKzmRG_un/s1600/P1070781.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A clear iceberg in Tracy Arm...cocktails, anyone?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Narrows and Rapids: </b>Narrows are areas of deep, navigable
water with shallow depths or simply shorelines/banks on either side. Narrows in and of themselves are not
that dangerous, as long as you stay within the channel, but when combined with
current (ebb and flood tides) or opposing traffic, they can be tricky or dangerous. For this reason, most large vessels give a "Securite" call when entering a narrows that goes something like this: "Securite, Securite, high speed ferry Fairweather entering Sergius Narrows in five minutes, westbound, concerned or opposing traffic call on 16 or 13. Fairweather standing by on one-six and one-three." Most vessels wait to go through a narrows if a large vessel has just issued a Securite call. Likewise, most vessels wait until slack water---or at least until after maximum flood or ebb---to transit a narrows. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the picture below, the <i>Fairweather</i> is passing <i>Silhouett</i>e in Whitestone Narrows. In this case, the <i>Fairweather </i>entered the narrows after <i>Silhouette </i>did, and here, Patrick has actually pulled out of the channel (after first making sure he had sufficient depth) to allow the <i>Fairweather</i> to pass. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvr3x8o0B1DZwpIlETcD36R6XAc_6fMF4Zb1sRId3I28WHyc3ukr9l7K5sSZJBzArz6sM8QHeYwfYFlVy-HRkTzgeHTdKQrk8kLrhIBWhORTYKpS-4uknRq38Nyt-bbYJ-MQwVGYHqNN9/s1600/Whitestone+Narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvr3x8o0B1DZwpIlETcD36R6XAc_6fMF4Zb1sRId3I28WHyc3ukr9l7K5sSZJBzArz6sM8QHeYwfYFlVy-HRkTzgeHTdKQrk8kLrhIBWhORTYKpS-4uknRq38Nyt-bbYJ-MQwVGYHqNN9/s1600/Whitestone+Narrows.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The ferry Fairweather in Whitestone Narrows</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0zAsa-AQ-v1C4bxUn9wQzjBzQ74xWrjvjYsCvsg7mi_KaWlcmNY0AjSXPmiYX_kwxPC7Y5_szZy6hGOZUoetOqF7x0V92QQYK9uy3GIqqqEAWRdoUoLPmpg2y6ofzq7UpgXOUn_qtlMiX/s1600/Silhouette+entering+Sergius+Narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0zAsa-AQ-v1C4bxUn9wQzjBzQ74xWrjvjYsCvsg7mi_KaWlcmNY0AjSXPmiYX_kwxPC7Y5_szZy6hGOZUoetOqF7x0V92QQYK9uy3GIqqqEAWRdoUoLPmpg2y6ofzq7UpgXOUn_qtlMiX/s1600/Silhouette+entering+Sergius+Narrows.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette entering Sergius Narrows: The end of the point of land at left (green marker not visible) and the red marker in the channel (barely visible) define the width of the narrows. </span></b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4iWL63IiFHNgZA75EGLw3dHySlH9jR0uQWUC9auV9XTatvzX0x7kHUZ1s0pLWK-DyS0IZ4EB83zfFboN22kiZ1GGrxEXntdP6tdtNfwOdV8W7zyGDXgSswvE49jsFekhIVRAazh3tZlY/s1600/P1060598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4iWL63IiFHNgZA75EGLw3dHySlH9jR0uQWUC9auV9XTatvzX0x7kHUZ1s0pLWK-DyS0IZ4EB83zfFboN22kiZ1GGrxEXntdP6tdtNfwOdV8W7zyGDXgSswvE49jsFekhIVRAazh3tZlY/s1600/P1060598.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick transiting Sergius Narrows on the Fourth of July</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In British
Columbia, we exited a narrows (Watts Narrows) with as much current as we
saw in some of the passes in the Tuamotus. Watts Narrows, and one other that we encountered---Jackson Narrows---were so slender that even <i>Silhouette</i> gave a Securite call before entering: There simply was not enough room for even two small vessels to pass each other. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQXnhg6d6-UXlViKPtcEKLUQwsrG0bHEmvepGVX9ZAnGYmi3Azazc1g1JOXo7XFoBDdagMIpwUOrLzc7Bh9ak1beKblvZ_kVap17I6VpgK60ArFGiGRvPKJBZhtqMT1StWIA4vBJuWMzl/s1600/P1130650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQXnhg6d6-UXlViKPtcEKLUQwsrG0bHEmvepGVX9ZAnGYmi3Azazc1g1JOXo7XFoBDdagMIpwUOrLzc7Bh9ak1beKblvZ_kVap17I6VpgK60ArFGiGRvPKJBZhtqMT1StWIA4vBJuWMzl/s1600/P1130650.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entering Watts Narrows at the entrance to Baker Inlet </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In addition to narrows, we had to pass through several rapids. Again, we timed our passage through the rapids to coincide with slack water. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7XiovlquwaSQ6Mk156oiRkb781FQqRZFo4s0627P8AvhJIGwX-KHBZ24WWwr8-sHdi_P5unyVl80Tr194TpZL_SxnChHFZliaG5IFotD2RAlscw9DJdzqVQHeUUv4AZ4hf6M3ugfi7jHH/s1600/Entering+first+rapids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7XiovlquwaSQ6Mk156oiRkb781FQqRZFo4s0627P8AvhJIGwX-KHBZ24WWwr8-sHdi_P5unyVl80Tr194TpZL_SxnChHFZliaG5IFotD2RAlscw9DJdzqVQHeUUv4AZ4hf6M3ugfi7jHH/s1600/Entering+first+rapids.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entering Chatham Channel-you can see a bit of current</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkpD2uPBMJs2_lUysQkUvPdwQWjhiuo79q3pSXwczTZg0UPzlE7HErbgmFs9StVjaDbXlXmsEmyK79Gp_h-w53fc-cd7Wtz7lo_jzOmBbR2MblelZnaN5RiGSsGHxxJgsgKg2UJs5ptUZ/s1600/Whirlpool+Rapids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkpD2uPBMJs2_lUysQkUvPdwQWjhiuo79q3pSXwczTZg0UPzlE7HErbgmFs9StVjaDbXlXmsEmyK79Gp_h-w53fc-cd7Wtz7lo_jzOmBbR2MblelZnaN5RiGSsGHxxJgsgKg2UJs5ptUZ/s1600/Whirlpool+Rapids.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Whirlpool Rapids </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpcNefa5iGCNFX4_hE9hHD8GpIJEeMCPkvyLNjF4AbBpHChnR2RVlj72IK3BCTchg0Wy2i83Gvq_R2QZY2n3q5fPjj-0KFjLcg8vwlP4q13Nd87WCSQHezODi-r9prwK2Eru8-IUM3bEN/s1600/SOG+in+Whirlpool+Rapids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpcNefa5iGCNFX4_hE9hHD8GpIJEeMCPkvyLNjF4AbBpHChnR2RVlj72IK3BCTchg0Wy2i83Gvq_R2QZY2n3q5fPjj-0KFjLcg8vwlP4q13Nd87WCSQHezODi-r9prwK2Eru8-IUM3bEN/s1600/SOG+in+Whirlpool+Rapids.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our speed over ground in narrow Whirlpool Rapids</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Fishing gear: </b>Conflict with fishing gear is always a potential problem; in this region where fishing is not only one of the major industries but a way of life, the potential is even greater. Boats underway must always keep a close lookout for trolling gear, purse seines, gill nets, and crab pot floats. Of these, the most difficult to spot are the crab pot floats and the floats at the end of a gill netter---which can be up to 1/4-mile away from the vessel the net is attached to.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAe44FAKh-MrdfqZngIZhYNZDYPKa_axVN2wSDfEue54NqBa_UdW98UpGF7vZkFd6TYC68lpabtVkvPBKRcM52PymzNLUGdXaKnyn3M_A4rm1oLAwyhAoXCQ0MsfqNwJfM255fOkG3ifqH/s1600/Gill+netter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAe44FAKh-MrdfqZngIZhYNZDYPKa_axVN2wSDfEue54NqBa_UdW98UpGF7vZkFd6TYC68lpabtVkvPBKRcM52PymzNLUGdXaKnyn3M_A4rm1oLAwyhAoXCQ0MsfqNwJfM255fOkG3ifqH/s1600/Gill+netter.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Gill net crew bringing in their net: At this point the pink float signifying the end of the net is close to the vessel; the white net floats that support the net proper are harder to spot on the water</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Floating trees,
deadheads and logs</b>: Encountering an
actual deadhead (a log saturated with water so that it is suspended vertically
in the water column) is rare; however, coming across floating logs is not a
rare occurrence. British Columbia has an active logging industry, and escapees
(as well as deadfall and windfall from forests) frequently make their way to
the beach. During the Spring tides, the highest tides of the month, these logs
are carried off the beaches by waves and frequently pop up on your course. We don't have pictures of most of the big logs that we passed, because they were frequently encountered during fog when we were anxiously keeping a watch. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvdZF8y0cR5Cc7NZx4hVLfcc5jq-agNesoPykZU-vZuPCgMcj82nvvcS3_DhTWg3P2Pa2XBVTf7XSWXTyLn9Af6NvC-HV7uaYcB3-5ODSAMAI0SBn8VYyE4tGTBWr4KSE2u_CeU5ZEiZBv/s1600/P1090214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvdZF8y0cR5Cc7NZx4hVLfcc5jq-agNesoPykZU-vZuPCgMcj82nvvcS3_DhTWg3P2Pa2XBVTf7XSWXTyLn9Af6NvC-HV7uaYcB3-5ODSAMAI0SBn8VYyE4tGTBWr4KSE2u_CeU5ZEiZBv/s1600/P1090214.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A cedar tree afloat near Anan Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQFUaRida_3dQ3jkU3mCK5f_Xbt3C3IqW9akvKHMdvIpb2OXFiIM4W6VuhgVitelmSEd04Tonz-73E4IFtV-p5nTIW2FcZVXa4Wo9NxIWMMwROG6noKyXbjDnUtJ_-5nPkOSwViR1-hzu/s1600/Floating+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQFUaRida_3dQ3jkU3mCK5f_Xbt3C3IqW9akvKHMdvIpb2OXFiIM4W6VuhgVitelmSEd04Tonz-73E4IFtV-p5nTIW2FcZVXa4Wo9NxIWMMwROG6noKyXbjDnUtJ_-5nPkOSwViR1-hzu/s1600/Floating+tree.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A dead tree floating in Dixon Entrance</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Whales: </b>Whales in transit are not a navigation
hazard that is unique to the Pacific Northwest; however, there is a large
concentration of humpback whales here. We didn't see any orca on our recent passage, but we
expected to in Southern B.C. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qCUbj_hTJ9a955USCVHJ58ZyJIyjKtXj-QuTM6r5X2II8PlVbC4sun82QM94nYeU6zv6eLgaGNs4VNf7LWWbAPqcWVTtJdSgUMYonuGdJYtMBuOQs0kYwP1IW4uwlnguIk3cuukdKKzE/s1600/Whale+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qCUbj_hTJ9a955USCVHJ58ZyJIyjKtXj-QuTM6r5X2II8PlVbC4sun82QM94nYeU6zv6eLgaGNs4VNf7LWWbAPqcWVTtJdSgUMYonuGdJYtMBuOQs0kYwP1IW4uwlnguIk3cuukdKKzE/s1600/Whale+2.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A humpback whale surfaces near the boat in fog</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqcp6vNgOQM7HSQ1KEZuCTfiuMYggks_Zdi92HyjLhQN2rrHw2FFYLLu9stTwMSFpAWtxNfBSPXfHr6bmtKIGyJJC57uqHMQ0kswQKsIuMHA9ylgqLf3P_JN4sIxXlGWD8WQwlDBopalx/s1600/Whale+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqcp6vNgOQM7HSQ1KEZuCTfiuMYggks_Zdi92HyjLhQN2rrHw2FFYLLu9stTwMSFpAWtxNfBSPXfHr6bmtKIGyJJC57uqHMQ0kswQKsIuMHA9ylgqLf3P_JN4sIxXlGWD8WQwlDBopalx/s1600/Whale+3.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The same whale several minutes later, after the fog has lifted, foraging near shore</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Flotsam: </b>Occasionally, large pieces of flotsam are
also encountered. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginxtFfVjvuBeuzLjFnHNMFI5a3T_MPrKxtY7beI9O-EJq9iBQcW7jfnGauYOm9F-KdcfVbW2l6O3wwSQpnIhuqXTKk1GmG8pWWH-pJcD5zxh4VYvlE9KYV2ZWR3geMZnS89wVJv1I_yFr/s1600/P1130676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginxtFfVjvuBeuzLjFnHNMFI5a3T_MPrKxtY7beI9O-EJq9iBQcW7jfnGauYOm9F-KdcfVbW2l6O3wwSQpnIhuqXTKk1GmG8pWWH-pJcD5zxh4VYvlE9KYV2ZWR3geMZnS89wVJv1I_yFr/s1600/P1130676.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A seagull hitches a ride on a piece of flotsam</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Fog: </b>Fog is perhaps the most difficult of the
Pacific Northwest navigation hazards to deal with. While modern day electronics
(especially AIS, or Automated Identification System) make things a lot easier than
in the past, you still have to look out for those vessels who don’t have AIS in
order to avoid a collision. Those vessels with an AIS transponder are shown on
your chart plotter with their vessel name and a boat icon. All of the large vessel traffic are
required to have AIS by law, so the likelihood of being run down by a cargo ship, oil tanker, or cruise
ship is much less than it used to be. However, collisions
with smaller vessels are still possible, and navigation through fog requires
manning the radar and keeping a continuous sharp lookout on deck until the fog
clears. In most cases during our voyage, the fog cleared around noon; but on
one memorable day, we navigated through fog from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. This kind of
navigation requires your total concentration and is extremely
taxing---especially when you are looking out not only for other vessels, but
for floating logs and debris. Even in fog, we often had a hundred yards to 1/8-mile
visibility; however, when the visibility went down to zero, we started sounding
our foghorn at two-minute intervals. Again, we don't have any pictures of the worst conditions we experienced, because we were too busy keeping watch at times of zero visibility. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKavxvbQQEiVy2OFQRmusrrp-oFNJiPIn-OsziDCm1AuDgkzBzz8LQFVSnzJ79-AlUu5dA7B7nFSEmQgLKbrBJBvThEprXnHrNn1lHr7Q2qgDbjq2hXLlqy6zv5k7I9Myl7sMYR7kgwMP7/s1600/Fog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKavxvbQQEiVy2OFQRmusrrp-oFNJiPIn-OsziDCm1AuDgkzBzz8LQFVSnzJ79-AlUu5dA7B7nFSEmQgLKbrBJBvThEprXnHrNn1lHr7Q2qgDbjq2hXLlqy6zv5k7I9Myl7sMYR7kgwMP7/s1600/Fog.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette forges ahead through the fog</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibac5uuZrT8hTmAPHh3hdo1vLVpL53sYT4qVUrace8qK9Fph8lOiJ_FCQPkdO0Pio6-SbxO8aHFi-usVAKvgNR0hs2gzkRATK9Eznmc7s7nhH3jL-j67OtbXPbx4OzgZhd7nKSF18R1i1/s1600/Ships+passing+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibac5uuZrT8hTmAPHh3hdo1vLVpL53sYT4qVUrace8qK9Fph8lOiJ_FCQPkdO0Pio6-SbxO8aHFi-usVAKvgNR0hs2gzkRATK9Eznmc7s7nhH3jL-j67OtbXPbx4OzgZhd7nKSF18R1i1/s1600/Ships+passing+2.jpg" height="260" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A fishing troller and a sailboat pass in the fog: A minute earlier, you could only see the mast of the sailboat; you still can't see the hull of the troller</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We were thankful that we didn’t travel at night when coastal cruising in Southeast Alaska and British Columbia. We needed to rest our eyes and take a break from the more
intensive watch-keeping that cruising those waters requires. </span></span> </div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-33149956971693046932014-09-06T07:20:00.001-07:002014-09-07T11:07:16.228-07:00Countdown to Seattle<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Welcome back to the Salish Sea: The closer we got to home, the more boat traffic and congestion we experienced. We decided to skip our original plan of checking in with U.S. Customs at busy Roche Harbor and check in at Friday Harbor instead. Both Customs docks are located on San Juan Island but Roche Harbor is the first one you come to when leaving Canada. Neither one is far from Ganges.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday Harbor doesn't have a huge entrance, and we had to take the ferry---as well as many other small craft---into account when entering and departing; however, the Customs dock was clear. There was no queue as we entered the United States for the third time since leaving Fanning Island last fall. Customs checks were required in Hilo and Friday Harbor but not in Sitka since we had come from Hawai'i. As you can imagine, returning to the U.S. was somewhat anticlimactic at this stage, after only leaving Southeast Alaska a few weeks ago. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had let our groceries run low to avoid any issues at Customs, so we followed up our check-in with a shopping trip to Friday Harbor's well stocked market and had a quiet dinner on the boat. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next morning, we departed for the trip across the Strait of Juan de Fuca in the company of a dozen other boats, all trying to get through Cattle Pass on a favorable current. We made it as far as the pass before deciding not to go on. Although Friday Harbor itself had been clear, the pass (and a large portion of the Strait) was still choked with fog. There was too much small vessel traffic in the area that we couldn't see, and our route included crossing the shipping lanes. Patrick decided to pull over and anchor in a nearby bay at the foot of San Juan Island. It didn't take long for the fog to clear, and we were on our way an hour and a half later. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There wasn't much traffic in the shipping lanes: just enough to remind us of how big it is. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcndb5VbNSoZPm6suHNBlOKeVwCG9bhLr75vb-jZG7NI-UXKJQiq_oRIHi9XdnL34jT9vd28q2GMBSOPIBg8kitiMEQ1Yn_7MkyNqf1ClI4RZkFyh9WpCR2j4OacUupOWm3qFIj0TmPjXc/s1600/P1100223_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcndb5VbNSoZPm6suHNBlOKeVwCG9bhLr75vb-jZG7NI-UXKJQiq_oRIHi9XdnL34jT9vd28q2GMBSOPIBg8kitiMEQ1Yn_7MkyNqf1ClI4RZkFyh9WpCR2j4OacUupOWm3qFIj0TmPjXc/s1600/P1100223_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This freighter was going northbound in the southbound lane; We had to adjust to get out of its way</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca for the first time in almost three years, approaching it from the north instead of from the south, I finally began to feel that we had traveled a long way from home. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By that next evening, we were in Port Townsend. Since our route had included crossing the Strait, we had taken the sail cover off the main in the morning in hopes of a sailing wind. The wind eventually came up, but not until we reached Point Wilson, where we would turn the corner into Port Townsend. At times, our route across the Strait was glassy calm; at other times, there was a light breeze on the nose.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Port Townsend was its usual glorious self, although the transient dock at Boathaven Marina had changed. It is now being used to stage boats for the Travel Lift. We learned that Port Townsend is also a U.S. port of entry. We tied up at the former transient dock overnight anyway, as it was past working hours, and decided we would sort it out with the marina in the morning. I scanned the boatyard adjacent to the marina for our friends' boat, but they had apparently made it back into the water. We had met Janet and Willi when we were last in the Port Townsend boat yard three years ago, preparing for our voyage, and they had recently hauled out there again. Janet and I had gotten to know each other between rushed conversations in the women's bathroom---each of us with clownlike green or red hair colored by sanding bottom paint---and she had followed our journey on our blog. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We also called our friends Karen and Jim from <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><i>Sockdolager</i></a>, who live in Port Townsend, and we met up with them for pizza and beers at Waterfront Pizza. It was good catching up with this funny and interesting couple whom we had seen sporadically during our voyage in Mexico, Tonga, and New Zealand. They are good role models for our re-entry into non-cruising life, as a year after their own return from cruising, both of them are fully immersed in new, exciting projects. Karen and Jim invited us to what sounded like a wonderful seafood fest at their house the next night, but with only two working days standing between us and the Labor Day weekend---one, after we got to Seattle---we decided to move on and begin our own "re-entry" process.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZWGuwDZb5m5EkmRJZVPHesUC_hU5Djk3Z0YkrUO3Bsd1J771O-cP2ULzW3CuEb-6o-NhGnAi3HBKuv5GyfdSI7DDSARdbAHCkZF9dFXnXeloXQhaoSk-j_z-6uBC6FG8XfkSBQooNNG8/s1600/P1130915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZWGuwDZb5m5EkmRJZVPHesUC_hU5Djk3Z0YkrUO3Bsd1J771O-cP2ULzW3CuEb-6o-NhGnAi3HBKuv5GyfdSI7DDSARdbAHCkZF9dFXnXeloXQhaoSk-j_z-6uBC6FG8XfkSBQooNNG8/s1600/P1130915.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Leaving Port Townsend </span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next day we left Port Townsend early under partly cloudy skies and went through the Port Townsend ship canal. There was still some strong current and opposing traffic, so I turned the helm over to Patrick as I felt a little nervous in the narrow channel. By the time we got through the cut, the skies were overcast. We began mentally ticking off the local landmarks that we hadn't seen in three years and that marked our way home. First up: Foul Weather Bluff.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next, we passed Point-No-Point. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7hg6VjtEHXWG3DytiF5Tvl7_Ne_my-qLrlB2cEh-PXQoJDaXbSG-Q5akcdp-S1tRSScCAL75whkumB4W_nqRagVMaI-tJYYwRlS_sg4k-mWYUjzzUsqvqNX6Sxl8DIjy5ej9Lo7SfoSV/s1600/P1100230_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7hg6VjtEHXWG3DytiF5Tvl7_Ne_my-qLrlB2cEh-PXQoJDaXbSG-Q5akcdp-S1tRSScCAL75whkumB4W_nqRagVMaI-tJYYwRlS_sg4k-mWYUjzzUsqvqNX6Sxl8DIjy5ej9Lo7SfoSV/s1600/P1100230_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The beach at Point No Point was lined with salmon fishers</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After rounding Point-No-Point, you can see your first distant view of Seattle's skyline. Patrick and I were both feeling restless and searched (mostly in vain) for little jobs to do around the boat to help the time pass quickly.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we traveled south down Puget Sound, whose hillsides are still mostly wooded, I felt grateful. I remembered that we are lucky to live in a beautiful place. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After Point-No-Point, you pass Apple Point and the Edmonds-Kingston ferry, which docks around the corner in Appletree Cove. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgw6XZRHTAwEPyEk6JNsc8J1s5jVyMERldHofK3XBp1o1h2N4MoyqaYdkWrPIb4BQoy__m3CEuyLuqt9AT9xpKJz3_LplizpcSvu72Duz0AQZYL7mv2zL1n3edmeYfC4mr1-P97ubAHh4d/s1600/P1100241_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgw6XZRHTAwEPyEk6JNsc8J1s5jVyMERldHofK3XBp1o1h2N4MoyqaYdkWrPIb4BQoy__m3CEuyLuqt9AT9xpKJz3_LplizpcSvu72Duz0AQZYL7mv2zL1n3edmeYfC4mr1-P97ubAHh4d/s1600/P1100241_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Edmonds-Kingston ferry leaving Appletree Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then Shilshole is abeam, one of the largest marinas in Seattle at the foot of the Ballard neighborhood. About the time we got to Shilshole, the sun began to burn through again. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVXXf-CHHlkNUCDYAzruWJhYT-mULCj7cuiTqTFTPGTJZdqC6cuY8asNbu5RHCYozhWooJoZiRXOUFYByqqhNHaCfE9yJK_jK0plTbLcvWelH1cWJpDPw8pgG8iNhyphenhyphen3LWIwF8lF3ApjBw/s1600/P1100251_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVXXf-CHHlkNUCDYAzruWJhYT-mULCj7cuiTqTFTPGTJZdqC6cuY8asNbu5RHCYozhWooJoZiRXOUFYByqqhNHaCfE9yJK_jK0plTbLcvWelH1cWJpDPw8pgG8iNhyphenhyphen3LWIwF8lF3ApjBw/s1600/P1100251_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The masts of Shilshole Marina are in the foreground</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally, I begin to scan for the red can buoy outside Eagle Harbor itself. The full Seattle skyline comes dramatically into view, while Mount Rainier reigns over the southern end of Puget Sound. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuMECLpYBk8Zbj3AiOyl_nPRax399x7mXk0mlOjTjUtOdJuU-J1NqTIwx3h2G6kZWX92Wo1biqcrBW8e0o0fVg29wfNH5lTWKbULf_61aRTqdXTqfwLQTunbcg8Wl9QQKRsk4TtDt8zEG/s1600/P1100255_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuMECLpYBk8Zbj3AiOyl_nPRax399x7mXk0mlOjTjUtOdJuU-J1NqTIwx3h2G6kZWX92Wo1biqcrBW8e0o0fVg29wfNH5lTWKbULf_61aRTqdXTqfwLQTunbcg8Wl9QQKRsk4TtDt8zEG/s1600/P1100255_resize.JPG" height="384" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We returned to Seattle on a beautiful late afternoon</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought about a visitor coming to Seattle for the first time, and how impressed they would be seeing these sights that now seem familiar to us. Returning to them after a three year absence, I experienced some of the excitement I had when I first visited the city over thirty years ago. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today, the mountain had remained elusive and we saw not a hint of it until we were almost home. However, as we drew between Elliott Bay on the Seattle side, and Eagle Harbor on the Bainbridge Island side of the Sound, blue skies surrounded Seattle and the mountain peeked (or should I say peaked?) into view.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcf5tOl32wKjwM2jMcrAgNUpfY9W8uD5-6dAhTeM7-9ewr35dqGV8l3NKBob8AZh4eGCciFWRmUY3E-gqMMZO3CLG0chGalwgRdpSCBh4o1c6tJXUuLC3oAmGG1Nj67xGL4JgDNEkxsFLr/s1600/P1100278_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcf5tOl32wKjwM2jMcrAgNUpfY9W8uD5-6dAhTeM7-9ewr35dqGV8l3NKBob8AZh4eGCciFWRmUY3E-gqMMZO3CLG0chGalwgRdpSCBh4o1c6tJXUuLC3oAmGG1Nj67xGL4JgDNEkxsFLr/s1600/P1100278_resize.JPG" height="320" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The summit of Mt. Rainier shows itself at last</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Patrick and I also noticed a few of the most obvious changes in Seattle. Many of the orange cranes at the Port of Seattle had been replaced with new white ones. A giant ferris wheel had been added to Seattle's waterfront! (The ferris wheel is at the far right in the photo of the city, above.) </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had been seeing dolphins off-and-on all day ever since entering Port Townsend Bay. As we arrived in our home port, this last reminder of our cruising lifestyle surfaced against the Seattle skyline. Dolphins welcomed us home.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojLVLSAY93e56jLo8dwyM1GZsrIpSzWQ9DngBbPwsuIjT-gYhth4jgHwjEbICcRMhWOfj701TmMaBWNocVAtkXN3mb6p3VfvsbhDypUkrbInvwFV_62C0KDpumbqU9kQlDdoq1788AB7o/s1600/P1100269_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojLVLSAY93e56jLo8dwyM1GZsrIpSzWQ9DngBbPwsuIjT-gYhth4jgHwjEbICcRMhWOfj701TmMaBWNocVAtkXN3mb6p3VfvsbhDypUkrbInvwFV_62C0KDpumbqU9kQlDdoq1788AB7o/s1600/P1100269_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dolphins surfacing in front of the Seahawks Stadium and Safeco Field</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We rounded the red can buoy, kept three green channel markers to port, went past the ferry dock, through the mooring field, and past two other marinas before entering our impossibly tight new slip in Eagle Harbour Marina. We had been assigned a slip next to a very wide, very new looking power boat. Dockmates, both old and new, met us at the dock to take our lines and help ease <i>Silhouette</i> into her new slip without damaging the other vessel. We breathed a sigh of relief. The slip assignment could be sorted later: We were home. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had returned to the same marina, a few slips down from where we started our voyage, just six weeks shy of three years ago. Although we did not circumnavigate this time, we did cross our outbound track near Point Wilson, and I draw inspiration from the fact that the shape of our overall track is an infinity sign. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Blogger's post script: </b>We arrived home on Thursday, August 28. Two days later, as I was working on these final blog posts, the hard drive on my computer gave up the ghost and died. It had served me well for 22,500 Nm. </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-2587785676554823102014-09-06T07:20:00.000-07:002014-09-07T09:47:02.257-07:00British Columbia South: Port McNeill to Ganges<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>August 16-26, 2014</b></span><br />
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You never know what you might see in a small town
parade: You might see a horse of a
different color. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNsM-O0_Cx6sVVPDa7EZo2KwXOlB9zvHccoLEUkXHUvExgqBpqV3lSXlyfiE-zji-AS8mIDspntlIMn_InRjBf8DxVukaHCh36KPq4LF3-Za3YfmYQNDjCrGUy_NDC7VCreUvhfpfHCx6/s1600/P1130760_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNsM-O0_Cx6sVVPDa7EZo2KwXOlB9zvHccoLEUkXHUvExgqBpqV3lSXlyfiE-zji-AS8mIDspntlIMn_InRjBf8DxVukaHCh36KPq4LF3-Za3YfmYQNDjCrGUy_NDC7VCreUvhfpfHCx6/s1600/P1130760_resize.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A zebra-striped horse</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You might see a Breast Cancer Awareness Float.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLvaU9bMJj0cE0aZ1PLjbWHZTB51sps-SnzQgndD3q8WXXrag2eVBfnRPkLnMrNxHk2wHLm8LMdi_qUvQGkCWQry4WxFcdlhLJXljgwAfzsMGnd1Vse1MdtQjkOcFATuTXiBCbQmTijXi/s1600/P1130765_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLvaU9bMJj0cE0aZ1PLjbWHZTB51sps-SnzQgndD3q8WXXrag2eVBfnRPkLnMrNxHk2wHLm8LMdi_qUvQGkCWQry4WxFcdlhLJXljgwAfzsMGnd1Vse1MdtQjkOcFATuTXiBCbQmTijXi/s1600/P1130765_resize.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This float was sponsored by a local business named "Bras for a Cause"...</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIIgn1XonKM2KqwMlOaBLVDD79cTzShGTM1zNC1GoP0CQTLMM8xT0mvd1MBFd5rrt9aghWxAo_BGu5ikU5AFOq_hqoZJLTLLKmn5yub-eq-SaEDm-EQwqmFSj1aX0d6nsDmpBW68W-_797/s1600/P1130767_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIIgn1XonKM2KqwMlOaBLVDD79cTzShGTM1zNC1GoP0CQTLMM8xT0mvd1MBFd5rrt9aghWxAo_BGu5ikU5AFOq_hqoZJLTLLKmn5yub-eq-SaEDm-EQwqmFSj1aX0d6nsDmpBW68W-_797/s1600/P1130767_resize.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">....and it reminded people of the date for the annual Race for the Cure</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You might see a logging truck or the emergency services out
in full force.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw5HuOy2ckEnTLrCW50by53fjgzUE7NM9evxrHBtXwWiFwWdBfspm21G3inTQU9QWjWbNqfRymdYNd2Kj8MiK905-YDwLYf2YAy52bt5cPycWyTrhMgctMgJBIQCkO0JNonhMjVyb5eYgu/s1600/P1130745_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw5HuOy2ckEnTLrCW50by53fjgzUE7NM9evxrHBtXwWiFwWdBfspm21G3inTQU9QWjWbNqfRymdYNd2Kj8MiK905-YDwLYf2YAy52bt5cPycWyTrhMgctMgJBIQCkO0JNonhMjVyb5eYgu/s1600/P1130745_resize.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sure hope those brakes work!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84oIkVyb8CwzKV06MnkwFIgmC_O2Xghw_aEn5nivxnmkaNi6L-dJeXezLyJYPcs7E1tyViQfeNbP68di5SMt9s_zyAzdGQyknW2xWdqQCA726vJ372tss9G7fjcz71xVPCl09Re-eubUV/s1600/P1130785_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84oIkVyb8CwzKV06MnkwFIgmC_O2Xghw_aEn5nivxnmkaNi6L-dJeXezLyJYPcs7E1tyViQfeNbP68di5SMt9s_zyAzdGQyknW2xWdqQCA726vJ372tss9G7fjcz71xVPCl09Re-eubUV/s1600/P1130785_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Firemen and fire hose</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At Port McNeill’s “Orca Fest,” we saw all of these,
including some floats that were actually centered around the parade’s loosely
interpreted theme: <i>Where the Wild Things Are.</i></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v5ZgYwLZaz8GvshIq-YQY3LImyTv7GxSUrXsM3ZATiv97FpXApEbnhwSAK1JWr02fHeRHvfv44L957ZjgWvs8nzrYiUNCi4rFOCMccCRqtEOetYQCZrlUbgvhtNB96C9yzdFnh3rgGmP/s1600/P1130775_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v5ZgYwLZaz8GvshIq-YQY3LImyTv7GxSUrXsM3ZATiv97FpXApEbnhwSAK1JWr02fHeRHvfv44L957ZjgWvs8nzrYiUNCi4rFOCMccCRqtEOetYQCZrlUbgvhtNB96C9yzdFnh3rgGmP/s1600/P1130775_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A float sponsored by loggers</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PSvz4cUgA8Gg9HqhD-E8TH5h_D8BzFYrSk33kM_BscpW2zynjjqwOeP7NjP4MLXjbo03XFRLGQw39iH2dSPGK4XLDboSmDRIoP1EAKRCtP5jp_81ymvdurMcaGWLTtIcPIw0QEn4ubzb/s1600/P1130781_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PSvz4cUgA8Gg9HqhD-E8TH5h_D8BzFYrSk33kM_BscpW2zynjjqwOeP7NjP4MLXjbo03XFRLGQw39iH2dSPGK4XLDboSmDRIoP1EAKRCtP5jp_81ymvdurMcaGWLTtIcPIw0QEn4ubzb/s1600/P1130781_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">And one by a daycare center</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The citizenry started lining the streets early in anticipation
of the parade. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF8CLs-v5-7Luw4N9qhQMeoNeKe60qlMkuQvap58hHOfcw7U2mDSty-r3w9zow7jVIRvP-VRQ5C_m1WIN5WKlk_8ChoT87N-mefQu2y2zvfsBIJ02qsn5sxPubMDms1BLYYpx707KHqbmM/s1600/P1130741_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF8CLs-v5-7Luw4N9qhQMeoNeKe60qlMkuQvap58hHOfcw7U2mDSty-r3w9zow7jVIRvP-VRQ5C_m1WIN5WKlk_8ChoT87N-mefQu2y2zvfsBIJ02qsn5sxPubMDms1BLYYpx707KHqbmM/s1600/P1130741_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Citizens start to line up for the Orca Fest Parade</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some children were dressed up for the occasion, and many of them
had plastic or paper bags in their hands because, as we learned, parade
marchers throw treats in small town parades. We were in Canada, but this was
like Halloween in the United States. After a float went by, its sponsors
throwing handfuls of hard candy, suckers, or gum at the kids lining the street,
it was a free-for-all while the children scrambled around in the street to pick
up as much candy as they could. Sometimes, treats were tossed for adults, too.
I watched as one child caught a brand new dashboard protector for a car, eyed
it quizzically, and handed it off on the nearest adult! (I could tell I was in
a small town when, instead of keeping it, that adult handed it back to the
child and told her to run over and give it to her parents.) T-shirts were
launched into the crowd out of blow guns. All told, the town had a great time
at its summer party, and we enjoyed watching the festivities.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Port McNeill is in a transition zone between
northern/central and southern British Columbia. In Port McNeill, we saw both
the fishing and logging industries well represented. After Port McNeill, we saw
more logging than fishing in British Columbia. (Could there be a correlation?)</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTKpnKGFKRa_KkjlLRr6lJZI_CyZKs34cFbXX160IfalOpPNQjOi4jniTm2HhbXd0wrT0CJAZFB3XpRuMnKOC5BEGAcz58wNdsUXlbiPqkdTZb8WiyXqaCn4ScYghmNaJ88BE-PthxiGG/s1600/P1130807_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTKpnKGFKRa_KkjlLRr6lJZI_CyZKs34cFbXX160IfalOpPNQjOi4jniTm2HhbXd0wrT0CJAZFB3XpRuMnKOC5BEGAcz58wNdsUXlbiPqkdTZb8WiyXqaCn4ScYghmNaJ88BE-PthxiGG/s1600/P1130807_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Port McNeill as seen from the anchorage</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dzn63quBUA3o804Vt2bpgXsLyZlS8RBP36-MhLz3AkX906tpZ3lWouGhRWJk2Qejvg_cEd9Gaf2WU8JeqAIY2sNCu-fZGRIl1pfAC_-y0H2ISUGwg7Bl-d9Cw1rJqOC2z7NE_zZWXtcF/s1600/P1130810_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dzn63quBUA3o804Vt2bpgXsLyZlS8RBP36-MhLz3AkX906tpZ3lWouGhRWJk2Qejvg_cEd9Gaf2WU8JeqAIY2sNCu-fZGRIl1pfAC_-y0H2ISUGwg7Bl-d9Cw1rJqOC2z7NE_zZWXtcF/s1600/P1130810_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Log loading operation at Port McNeill</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The harbor was extremely crowded and is divided
into sides for recreational craft and fishing vessels. The fishing
vessels were crammed together, rafted up four and five abreast of each other
instead of having individual slips. Port McNeill also has an anchorage large
enough to accommodate many vessels. We anchored out. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCmKvJ2ZzOLAOei5Zpk7KY9hSOLi0VtUhr2xAejou9hdSTmy9ab5_1ybb82LJ8Cz9ddC7su_12JfM8MQmETVJD4bajYDQgNCwRNlcBNjx2pONPLUbono-p2b1TpSQdWuU5gZTjwGOYhHC/s1600/P1130794_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCmKvJ2ZzOLAOei5Zpk7KY9hSOLi0VtUhr2xAejou9hdSTmy9ab5_1ybb82LJ8Cz9ddC7su_12JfM8MQmETVJD4bajYDQgNCwRNlcBNjx2pONPLUbono-p2b1TpSQdWuU5gZTjwGOYhHC/s1600/P1130794_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The happy confusion of the commercial fishing terminal in Port McNeill</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIW8rGOHgWrvgXW1qIJ5I9JVfzDAbbWGHcTq5KAwf073ndQUjFva5H03V2kik4S_LHDh7-U26Zu6OLiauqZnxm5v8a6TVuwkb-psFiUAMVqknqD3Iq9rDLI-lYlUB529mLbambdgTOn_XE/s1600/P1130797_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIW8rGOHgWrvgXW1qIJ5I9JVfzDAbbWGHcTq5KAwf073ndQUjFva5H03V2kik4S_LHDh7-U26Zu6OLiauqZnxm5v8a6TVuwkb-psFiUAMVqknqD3Iq9rDLI-lYlUB529mLbambdgTOn_XE/s1600/P1130797_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Boats rafted up together in the marina</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">By now, those of you who follow our blog regularly have
figured out that we were on the fast track through British Columbia. We hadn’t
stayed more than one night anywhere since leaving Prince Rupert, but we spent
the weekend at Port McNeill. We hadn’t done any real boat maintenance since
leaving Sitka and some tasks were due. We were also hoping the foggy weather
pattern we’d been experiencing over the last several days would break up. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When we left Port McNeill, it was overcast, and we did enter
a fog bank as we re-crossed Queen Charlotte Strait; however, the fog was short
lived. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-qMvtaDFPTMcBEQLLhFt_yj0wJL1eercouzrzejOtyH2FcJDH8ni6Q5p3N7cg4aRwKffBbJM7BhcK_ZjL9pnpaXxYAf8zCDcktswLvGHETP4WKxkYDPmxGCaL1E5q8X1tOflGPcATzV_/s1600/P1090955_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-qMvtaDFPTMcBEQLLhFt_yj0wJL1eercouzrzejOtyH2FcJDH8ni6Q5p3N7cg4aRwKffBbJM7BhcK_ZjL9pnpaXxYAf8zCDcktswLvGHETP4WKxkYDPmxGCaL1E5q8X1tOflGPcATzV_/s1600/P1090955_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mother and chick: I'm not sure what species these were</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-qr4y4dafYnVjNcElcoLx1QstXAZhEmuZmZAW1NOdtyA5uS6bhyphenhyphenrbkCMFnZQeC_8zFEa50Z_LEioFLxTnNUPS9WAD3MUa2zQsmK3opBmG0bloAWU91kFB5QR28hNOm8SMEtWqz5hPh0u/s1600/P1090959_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-qr4y4dafYnVjNcElcoLx1QstXAZhEmuZmZAW1NOdtyA5uS6bhyphenhyphenrbkCMFnZQeC_8zFEa50Z_LEioFLxTnNUPS9WAD3MUa2zQsmK3opBmG0bloAWU91kFB5QR28hNOm8SMEtWqz5hPh0u/s1600/P1090959_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">First Nation Longhouse</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We anchored in Shoal Harbour our first night in the Broughtons, a former
logging area with some cabins still scattered around it. The next day, we saw
another sign of home as we passed a piece of the old 520 floating bridge that
had been brought up from Washington to build the breakwater at Echo Bay. The
breakwater also houses the store and fuel dock. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFu4cVPYMcZWj5apidOQaUysuUKXRUjFxBUqvuXXgVVJfI-_cMcrwe6ew7mCJYFGTXNJuKP_bRsDaOWMFkWbbxBGZBTmzAeQzFPdSvoFKveME52Ov0GAapjLVsLsN7mTMq7ExE7sWUHZy/s1600/P1130819_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFu4cVPYMcZWj5apidOQaUysuUKXRUjFxBUqvuXXgVVJfI-_cMcrwe6ew7mCJYFGTXNJuKP_bRsDaOWMFkWbbxBGZBTmzAeQzFPdSvoFKveME52Ov0GAapjLVsLsN7mTMq7ExE7sWUHZy/s1600/P1130819_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A piece of home in Echo Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Bypassing Echo Bay, we stopped
for the night in <a href="http://www.kwatsibay.com/" target="_blank">Kwatsi Bay</a>, a family run operation with dock space, showers,
and local crafts for sale. The hosts, Max and Anca (who hails from Holland),
cultivate a family feeling by hosting potlucks at the dock several nights a
week. Boaters seem to return year after year and many of them know each other.
Patrick has been there several times before, and it is a place I would happily
revisit. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcI_z-71pZyRNIvb5uVsozz0oHc6xWqDO8jwSgpBsCshawlLLGSNMdRBRUl1uLOeSwMrP4jLgwoG3hddNhec7-WSJ2A630RvqgrFb7j0ASeI4mQHre9-l65maCKAwrkMuSB10nD8UVtQ_/s1600/P1130826_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcI_z-71pZyRNIvb5uVsozz0oHc6xWqDO8jwSgpBsCshawlLLGSNMdRBRUl1uLOeSwMrP4jLgwoG3hddNhec7-WSJ2A630RvqgrFb7j0ASeI4mQHre9-l65maCKAwrkMuSB10nD8UVtQ_/s1600/P1130826_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Colorful rock wall at the entrance to Kwatsi Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKtIyZLKf8C3RNz5xj4OjZgJ6VPtDLcd70aY-HV02lVFC8evonIykHyPwlyvcqvXTNJCCXPJIP6Gjs9lfUZ4ojuBn2OuUYuXhoM7LRJUZ_V8OOsVTQUQ2Rn9_G9DztOD9kIOep9QlWSRPM/s1600/P1130832_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKtIyZLKf8C3RNz5xj4OjZgJ6VPtDLcd70aY-HV02lVFC8evonIykHyPwlyvcqvXTNJCCXPJIP6Gjs9lfUZ4ojuBn2OuUYuXhoM7LRJUZ_V8OOsVTQUQ2Rn9_G9DztOD9kIOep9QlWSRPM/s1600/P1130832_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A heron stalks the dock looking for prey in Kwatsi Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Leaving Kwatsi Bay the next morning, we were joined by a
school of Pacific white-sided dolphins. They stayed with us for a good 45
minutes, bow riding, leaping out of the water, and even swimming upside down
before the boat! I was standing on the bow taking pictures, and after a while,
some of the dolphin seemed to become curious about what I was doing, as they
rolled over on their side and looked at me looking at them.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzi_Esj2rCR2RAfFLg5fJUqokQAm-AUk73UN2tDv9yN_XHurnQe6q8mYs0aqBYuiRJyWen4BfC3OADN80ibY_rBJoPzlq2L4puKQK1v8ow36pfhIAnKo_o7a5SraL3XbkvpkiffvUgBct/s1600/P1090994_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzi_Esj2rCR2RAfFLg5fJUqokQAm-AUk73UN2tDv9yN_XHurnQe6q8mYs0aqBYuiRJyWen4BfC3OADN80ibY_rBJoPzlq2L4puKQK1v8ow36pfhIAnKo_o7a5SraL3XbkvpkiffvUgBct/s1600/P1090994_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A Pacific white-sided dolphin coming to join the boat</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisaDrt5Ccf4NMflLCP301Moe4GIAyKDxonDY3Psm3zuEu7QKq_7a7ggZVzNtPeEKjbCQ-fOO-5VqfZRb-l0TDgMGt1MorF4I6E7Kbghg1eMdL_MaxFvKZTs1yjKAscAd9fU1leHaDQAC0G/s1600/P1100020_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisaDrt5Ccf4NMflLCP301Moe4GIAyKDxonDY3Psm3zuEu7QKq_7a7ggZVzNtPeEKjbCQ-fOO-5VqfZRb-l0TDgMGt1MorF4I6E7Kbghg1eMdL_MaxFvKZTs1yjKAscAd9fU1leHaDQAC0G/s1600/P1100020_resize.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blowhole!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie1y6SXW8EMTBWdMyaiQt4yqFbwP7nGluZjh6obO_8FgqmCFhWpo0xM_UiE-0LdpTGFCMTj8V8m0y8q1bYExU745zm7Dfek4ecG7R1Uj7WOhF0ddrG3OR_9DpYrUYT12i-y47MgIpK7FhL/s1600/P1130834_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie1y6SXW8EMTBWdMyaiQt4yqFbwP7nGluZjh6obO_8FgqmCFhWpo0xM_UiE-0LdpTGFCMTj8V8m0y8q1bYExU745zm7Dfek4ecG7R1Uj7WOhF0ddrG3OR_9DpYrUYT12i-y47MgIpK7FhL/s1600/P1130834_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These two dolphin appear to be a mother and calf</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjShEfwsr20ozN6a7jEdqM-d0bNdL6EDRhGPxX2RpQHHJ92AkkViBkbxkwxH_Q0dChpVmzmXrNjo2E3iVdQkTV9qpatX3ReHfZD_FUCHP0tldiGnvgeugJ3xiDI0cO27MD4HTc2Zd6VIsOG/s1600/P1100044_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjShEfwsr20ozN6a7jEdqM-d0bNdL6EDRhGPxX2RpQHHJ92AkkViBkbxkwxH_Q0dChpVmzmXrNjo2E3iVdQkTV9qpatX3ReHfZD_FUCHP0tldiGnvgeugJ3xiDI0cO27MD4HTc2Zd6VIsOG/s1600/P1100044_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A mother and calf ride the bow together, as seen through the water</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBa8nRmf5au3mw6pJE1ixlJAuXItL2pdatXo524q_0dtzakwk5KtyVSGqW5hHoWltR91Fm1OoH9ccYypFeJIx76HV66K2sdIWF-CkvofdG4NgZxUJoY8IOxu3NrgPDC-xHDwL2W9y1NOl/s1600/P1100047_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBa8nRmf5au3mw6pJE1ixlJAuXItL2pdatXo524q_0dtzakwk5KtyVSGqW5hHoWltR91Fm1OoH9ccYypFeJIx76HV66K2sdIWF-CkvofdG4NgZxUJoY8IOxu3NrgPDC-xHDwL2W9y1NOl/s1600/P1100047_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I don't know who is more curious</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We traveled the narrow Chatham Channel to Knight Inlet. You never know what you might see in channels along the
Inside Passage either. You might see floathouses collapsing:</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAa4bSWrWpDVoN-U63kcr4Z95hkjRjgYhvhsrnjs17S1yRFo0rxZzkbFIITBmejeYc9sY3CQAb9YyyS70f-YRVgYrKU8ZNI2VayydqAmFsC24yl69vn8EVlbpjcXq9rrWrySf-UPx7_g8/s1600/P1100119_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAa4bSWrWpDVoN-U63kcr4Z95hkjRjgYhvhsrnjs17S1yRFo0rxZzkbFIITBmejeYc9sY3CQAb9YyyS70f-YRVgYrKU8ZNI2VayydqAmFsC24yl69vn8EVlbpjcXq9rrWrySf-UPx7_g8/s1600/P1100119_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You might find a used car.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9yFDwQObhlQI9nGiDM7MaM130OAllS7dwe-4j006PTj5sn70H7irQTkj0sI8ayXduvA8ERaxPatGjXPC16qRF2sbLKpNbp7AZdXe-VaIKeeRzbrSufgM1zomeX9ivvg8IB9CCG4DSLYS-/s1600/P1100121_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9yFDwQObhlQI9nGiDM7MaM130OAllS7dwe-4j006PTj5sn70H7irQTkj0sI8ayXduvA8ERaxPatGjXPC16qRF2sbLKpNbp7AZdXe-VaIKeeRzbrSufgM1zomeX9ivvg8IB9CCG4DSLYS-/s1600/P1100121_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cars for sale</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Or a new house:</span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYSxgkzNbH1KXhk4jsyMz8DPZ3QM8OgkVPEv7jqiw6Eh9K3zh5xOcf5WTNnjN3VhQmj1EfZVz4ia_ti9r74VeKeQCNLi3JIyGEfLE2UHHFxsRmOj8l6G14LbKgPJGoRG2gX8LM2JQphMn/s1600/P1100122_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYSxgkzNbH1KXhk4jsyMz8DPZ3QM8OgkVPEv7jqiw6Eh9K3zh5xOcf5WTNnjN3VhQmj1EfZVz4ia_ti9r74VeKeQCNLi3JIyGEfLE2UHHFxsRmOj8l6G14LbKgPJGoRG2gX8LM2JQphMn/s1600/P1100122_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"Vacancy"</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You might see a pretty view.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxmtLzrfQBhyphenhyphencx6qTVepYUrOd34JNeXpaRr_Q35f0xcdNVreV9bsh3cBHNcXhTBAl2uecrrKDzFSyEiLm-49zLfVIPGtgHUOJVpXQXwTPa9NTnHCTYZyblyN9zQyWbtN4TKzaXWuLPZjh/s1600/P1100126_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxmtLzrfQBhyphenhyphencx6qTVepYUrOd34JNeXpaRr_Q35f0xcdNVreV9bsh3cBHNcXhTBAl2uecrrKDzFSyEiLm-49zLfVIPGtgHUOJVpXQXwTPa9NTnHCTYZyblyN9zQyWbtN4TKzaXWuLPZjh/s1600/P1100126_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We followed Knight Inlet back out into Johnstone Strait
where, sadly, we did not come across any orca. (We were already below the part
of the strait most frequented by the orca.) Although the usual high wind
warning was forecast for Johnstone Strait, we passed Port Neville in good
conditions and turned off the strait to anchor for the night in Forward Harbour.
Somewhere between Kwatsi Bay and Forward Harbour, the sun came out again,
pretty much to stay. Ahh! Summer at last!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov-durxmwh0h2zxYMX3m21FaafCEXJo6TyHv7j9cG1km46Uq4XUdkEoAGJLn3PCkvPHZUDEBemm_5UTGcYM4OrVv9tyjQm0eut6rSR8gBTNqsp5seYIgPr0fIOUyySJsQhPK72xjMOBMI/s1600/P1100138_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov-durxmwh0h2zxYMX3m21FaafCEXJo6TyHv7j9cG1km46Uq4XUdkEoAGJLn3PCkvPHZUDEBemm_5UTGcYM4OrVv9tyjQm0eut6rSR8gBTNqsp5seYIgPr0fIOUyySJsQhPK72xjMOBMI/s1600/P1100138_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Vista on the way to Forward Harbour</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Forward Harbour, we had to go through a series of
rapids while traveling through the rest of the Broughton Islands. This involved
the careful timing of our departure for the next two days in order to enter the
rapids at a favorable stage of the tide.We left late the next morning in order to catch the last of
the ebb through Whirpool Rapids. We were hoping to get a little help from the
current in our direction. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw42_CKUzGHQz09w2z_Czq4ZCxZQPDvip9sRXAxlTHV4oa9HjNCjwZwTyxHKwjLLqXPAafgLhLT3lcrQLLTtOT3LJ-GWQNLCZAAXI7A-E8MYvYxPntzyoOE5ag258r8edlmRsL54HDwkDB/s1600/P1130847_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw42_CKUzGHQz09w2z_Czq4ZCxZQPDvip9sRXAxlTHV4oa9HjNCjwZwTyxHKwjLLqXPAafgLhLT3lcrQLLTtOT3LJ-GWQNLCZAAXI7A-E8MYvYxPntzyoOE5ag258r8edlmRsL54HDwkDB/s1600/P1130847_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The rapids look so benign near slack water...</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNw5ysMMAB5OeEbXw0euEn8C8f3uxzXJJ8lB8y5LAJYL9OomAEwamohwArS6_ixL2lEK9FLCyfD8qK7RrGS3OcIIXceLH2zt8ouLI6oJvugF_QLXMK_V2ZQFWcr1JxjZ_7470TZWGm8SBW/s1600/P1130840_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNw5ysMMAB5OeEbXw0euEn8C8f3uxzXJJ8lB8y5LAJYL9OomAEwamohwArS6_ixL2lEK9FLCyfD8qK7RrGS3OcIIXceLH2zt8ouLI6oJvugF_QLXMK_V2ZQFWcr1JxjZ_7470TZWGm8SBW/s1600/P1130840_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">....but when does Silhouette ever do nine knots in glassy conditions?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNsdF_g8wn_FsH_vBbHauEoamwnF2fhRdqrWy68ptM1htk-_tXmqTVPL-1MCsQf8zTafFNCZq6L5nYA5LWCW-TZRFF_JXBzGz7lhY3V0EvDu-Hl9KGvcXl6IQH5kCPa61x4ZClw8LoVwA/s1600/P1130856_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNsdF_g8wn_FsH_vBbHauEoamwnF2fhRdqrWy68ptM1htk-_tXmqTVPL-1MCsQf8zTafFNCZq6L5nYA5LWCW-TZRFF_JXBzGz7lhY3V0EvDu-Hl9KGvcXl6IQH5kCPa61x4ZClw8LoVwA/s1600/P1130856_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lovely scenery along Whirlpool Rapids</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This was followed by going through Greene Point Rapids at
slack water. After completing both sets of rapids without experiencing more
than a bit of current, we had a leisurely trip into Shoal Bay. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We saw some picturesque fishing lodges along the way. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-CysK1jbFX3nATIqv22QIsKWN0Y_gYChcABj5OnuxHOiFPgCph9WkH2o6VoGJw1b5BZYbFhGW8VYS1UUohTkL_xPX3XNUFtgE6ayTcg4vYJPRN_V-IPdv235cTUmkMoIhtWsqR6yWHOf/s1600/P1100168_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-CysK1jbFX3nATIqv22QIsKWN0Y_gYChcABj5OnuxHOiFPgCph9WkH2o6VoGJw1b5BZYbFhGW8VYS1UUohTkL_xPX3XNUFtgE6ayTcg4vYJPRN_V-IPdv235cTUmkMoIhtWsqR6yWHOf/s1600/P1100168_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sweet spot along the channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> We also began to see more clear cuts throughout this part of
the waterway. While the individual clear cuts in British Columbia seem to cover
less area than in the past, and the logging industry seems to be leaving a
buffer zone of timber along the shoreline---which probably catches some of the
silt running off the clear cuts---they are still the major method of harvesting
trees. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD3bo4m6vhs-_LwdxPENzRiJzqxwfQ1SHd5SngiPGQTmxDkYVfDUgyFzKm86Nqkfv8LmV0wMin5FA8BhPOf1yr5m6k4Ml17W7acgWJG0-fJ3IOFbyzyC3uh_xAgn5yAIHzHBK4gW915k17/s1600/P1100152_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD3bo4m6vhs-_LwdxPENzRiJzqxwfQ1SHd5SngiPGQTmxDkYVfDUgyFzKm86Nqkfv8LmV0wMin5FA8BhPOf1yr5m6k4Ml17W7acgWJG0-fJ3IOFbyzyC3uh_xAgn5yAIHzHBK4gW915k17/s1600/P1100152_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A clear cut adjoining new growth from a previous clear cut and mature second growth</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyaP3CGIHCrIlY5OJyBv1jKiW3kDqJpAhmm5pF3cLonUILvSUBsDp6t3OSc9TGl-Y82ndWS-l8TVJGC52L3VfCgBdpupdu2Y8x3NEPhrJv5I_-X2B2u8bJBGi66qi8XX_ktcmTmLrgh1ku/s1600/P1100157_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyaP3CGIHCrIlY5OJyBv1jKiW3kDqJpAhmm5pF3cLonUILvSUBsDp6t3OSc9TGl-Y82ndWS-l8TVJGC52L3VfCgBdpupdu2Y8x3NEPhrJv5I_-X2B2u8bJBGi66qi8XX_ktcmTmLrgh1ku/s1600/P1100157_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We saw this interesting clear cut</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDz-XmeSW0sANMMrvqN05HZfK5c0Dm67picUQ-uUjeuHMZEXFiJsOpDj07bOapUzWsyCPeBYTumBiwayfEdB4tLySuhpzjI_in4B3g-UnVNy7vqczDgXjX_xP0k0MzLJ3Dow74IVTLAcK/s1600/P1100158_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDz-XmeSW0sANMMrvqN05HZfK5c0Dm67picUQ-uUjeuHMZEXFiJsOpDj07bOapUzWsyCPeBYTumBiwayfEdB4tLySuhpzjI_in4B3g-UnVNy7vqczDgXjX_xP0k0MzLJ3Dow74IVTLAcK/s1600/P1100158_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patchwork left by clear cuts</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEjktoUL_9sm4yu7AR6Te4_nM2tVGx4cdXLUnQI0LiESqnbu1JK-QFjSfTSOjBi0FMh5b9yt2wG4ALkj7hN76vu_yTTwn2w4VY65n6Tp8cbTMmO2yT0mFpy7DZj0D4AReXYM_OeYDHvic/s1600/P1100164_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEjktoUL_9sm4yu7AR6Te4_nM2tVGx4cdXLUnQI0LiESqnbu1JK-QFjSfTSOjBi0FMh5b9yt2wG4ALkj7hN76vu_yTTwn2w4VY65n6Tp8cbTMmO2yT0mFpy7DZj0D4AReXYM_OeYDHvic/s1600/P1100164_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One of the larger clear cuts </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Just before arriving at Shoal Bay, we began to see tantalizing tall
peaks in the distance. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbF0dCeuG3Wf9vuzQMOOVeGLtii49vIQp76jP4u51o4CFaQ7OdPbyjNQi9q1oNY4ZRP11BDO6MAv1yiQ8aS5zYetgvM8mT4OCfNwpSKWCeYdGhtJv5xjGjnoTm_NVjtPHw-p0LnCzkP52R/s1600/P1100193_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbF0dCeuG3Wf9vuzQMOOVeGLtii49vIQp76jP4u51o4CFaQ7OdPbyjNQi9q1oNY4ZRP11BDO6MAv1yiQ8aS5zYetgvM8mT4OCfNwpSKWCeYdGhtJv5xjGjnoTm_NVjtPHw-p0LnCzkP52R/s1600/P1100193_resize.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Peak outside Shoal Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWsASIF_RCOOt7EmIOJ6eyQzY0tzGg1wbKTZpi4s03U6jKP1Vx4FrVqKTFZzF6B_MMGisuE9_BiEnwX6dsdxAOTBYukgjwPoiP5mFZ6iJEQ9fwgsYkfjbiKxg0Jl8MFoJrd83DbUFND-I/s1600/P1130861_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWsASIF_RCOOt7EmIOJ6eyQzY0tzGg1wbKTZpi4s03U6jKP1Vx4FrVqKTFZzF6B_MMGisuE9_BiEnwX6dsdxAOTBYukgjwPoiP5mFZ6iJEQ9fwgsYkfjbiKxg0Jl8MFoJrd83DbUFND-I/s1600/P1130861_resize.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Rock wall approaching Shoal Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The wharfinger at the public marina at Shoal Bay also owns property
at the head of the bay, where he and his partner run a pub and an organic
garden. It is a popular stop for boats waiting to transit the rapids on either
side of the bay. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRyFHfOzSaqwtmNX_Gwfhn7SlCA_HrgSVH_GZis0zOQ6EGHBw9qcMPTVJYC710oPFNn8Ofo6ayHp0oD1ASOe3Oshv_Kfad6rxsDS_DuxcPgP4Be4Yby6wbWqR5nErCRzHMpEEvWICRzdU3/s1600/P1130863_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRyFHfOzSaqwtmNX_Gwfhn7SlCA_HrgSVH_GZis0zOQ6EGHBw9qcMPTVJYC710oPFNn8Ofo6ayHp0oD1ASOe3Oshv_Kfad6rxsDS_DuxcPgP4Be4Yby6wbWqR5nErCRzHMpEEvWICRzdU3/s1600/P1130863_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Anchorage and public dock at Shoal Bay as seen from the pub</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In Shoal Bay, I began to see familiar forest understory,
sword ferns and salal, reminding me that our march towards home was bringing us
ever-closer. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning brought a series of three rapids in quick
succession: Dent, Gillard, and Yuculta
Rapids. Of these, Dent Rapids seemed to have the most current, but that’s
probably because it’s the first one we came to as we approached slack water. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Broughtons empty into Desolation Sound, a high use and
very crowded area in mid-August. We only stayed in one anchorage there, Squirrel
Cove, before moving on. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTgTh5d47aqqvmRQUyctIU61VAVOhxtDhfZo_j84kz7bq1pcBoXH5CnozTnpcG2vxyfC3h0YoPJxr4TuwOrPkhOtLHqTezrte37hmtWsFthlA1hwhiJuKvHQOTWEjyxhHrmby_4vHStJC/s1600/P1130864_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTgTh5d47aqqvmRQUyctIU61VAVOhxtDhfZo_j84kz7bq1pcBoXH5CnozTnpcG2vxyfC3h0YoPJxr4TuwOrPkhOtLHqTezrte37hmtWsFthlA1hwhiJuKvHQOTWEjyxhHrmby_4vHStJC/s1600/P1130864_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Peaks in morning haze, Desolation Sound</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From this point out, we began entering more and more crowded
areas with more and more boating traffic. It began to prepare us
psychologically for returning to the huge metropolitan area that is Seattle and
for crossing the shipping lanes in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. . </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Squirrel Cove, we visited Pender Harbour. The entrance
into Pender Harbour requires you to be very alert due to heavy vessel traffic
and the many crab pots lining the channel. The houses in the area blend nicely
into the sparsely wooded rocky cliffs and islets. Once through the channel, you
see that Pender Harbour is actually a series of harbors, with many interesting
nooks and crannies. It made this large harbor feel smaller and less crowded
than the next two anchorages we visited. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4yCjy_l0PQNPgVk0LkqgiqgxiWyiz5CLm2SYCn7ANek5phFSOxClgtG5wxfP2xREbmJx1pTLSs4g2oUlOONYxOZUBD_FiU6r6T3RWEVZmqZHzUY-jdgqoZSKtvwFX7cdcNjptqr8141G/s1600/P1130871_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4yCjy_l0PQNPgVk0LkqgiqgxiWyiz5CLm2SYCn7ANek5phFSOxClgtG5wxfP2xREbmJx1pTLSs4g2oUlOONYxOZUBD_FiU6r6T3RWEVZmqZHzUY-jdgqoZSKtvwFX7cdcNjptqr8141G/s1600/P1130871_resize.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I knew I was close to home when I saw my first madrone tree</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiaiD-ZzvzdevGBIIl6cIGMHH2tDyUg3IGrkzUodFlQ8j5qzktjwGD-0FCQNsSW4AdGajlZecHg2xEsSA_ouKmkt5rumZowamzSHeUddn4w8yJ-4tpAADv2vh6WM7KGTrFDvF9wKe6aum/s1600/P1130869_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiaiD-ZzvzdevGBIIl6cIGMHH2tDyUg3IGrkzUodFlQ8j5qzktjwGD-0FCQNsSW4AdGajlZecHg2xEsSA_ouKmkt5rumZowamzSHeUddn4w8yJ-4tpAADv2vh6WM7KGTrFDvF9wKe6aum/s1600/P1130869_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Houses on the approach to Pender Harbour</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Glav_FrgTWb8_cqc3LdZFJSfrVqWDgWiTS_FO0DCXG0o7-8bl1OhxtsUAZGwGS-o6ydfWhTs9U4QcUwYB4JfDk3Dpu4ElTc_3inAWJJDwJ9svlvA0C5FNBwC_tz9f8gD_YOiHXMDP__H/s1600/P1130872_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Glav_FrgTWb8_cqc3LdZFJSfrVqWDgWiTS_FO0DCXG0o7-8bl1OhxtsUAZGwGS-o6ydfWhTs9U4QcUwYB4JfDk3Dpu4ElTc_3inAWJJDwJ9svlvA0C5FNBwC_tz9f8gD_YOiHXMDP__H/s1600/P1130872_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entering Pender Harbour</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> From Pender Harbour, it is possible to make the miles to
Ganges in just one day, but we left later in the morning and just went as far
as Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. We had to cross the Strait of Georgia, and this
was one of the few times during our trip through British Columbia when we had
enough wind to sail. The entry channel into Nanaimo Harbour is narrow, shallow,
and clogged with vessels, and the anchorage was equally challenging. Along with
sailboats and motor craft, there were many smaller vessels such as kayaks,
canoes, and even windsurfers threading their way through the mooring field. We
arrived late in the day, and there was a steady stream of traffic between the
entrance channel and the edge of the anchorage that we had to get across before
we could anchor.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMigDN6poSFDJhVck1XDBb3r7LSWNb5lC5IG66NLwhNpljCW1g_QKcXGJKXRT3R2284LcnoV1zkOzhhczo5Lu1VuDOFT9bfxdAoqCQ6sBSoxez8d9PT4SQITJpYY699iFBRvZSsmKgYH6/s1600/P1130875_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMigDN6poSFDJhVck1XDBb3r7LSWNb5lC5IG66NLwhNpljCW1g_QKcXGJKXRT3R2284LcnoV1zkOzhhczo5Lu1VuDOFT9bfxdAoqCQ6sBSoxez8d9PT4SQITJpYY699iFBRvZSsmKgYH6/s1600/P1130875_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Downtown Nanaimo</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JJ_bWoF1nIoMyxfBMKmxtmbEuWObNPMtWYEe_yi7sQJW6mgHEnjP63o2MCbo92zSRxKI9JqnjoWEFqwtm7tBb5zag_iHjeQpzQpjtgAMZcR8-yLC1m30t_-BP0XV2zngySE2Qeq1nvxh/s1600/P1130878_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JJ_bWoF1nIoMyxfBMKmxtmbEuWObNPMtWYEe_yi7sQJW6mgHEnjP63o2MCbo92zSRxKI9JqnjoWEFqwtm7tBb5zag_iHjeQpzQpjtgAMZcR8-yLC1m30t_-BP0XV2zngySE2Qeq1nvxh/s1600/P1130878_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Part of the anchorage and mooring field in Nanaimo Harbour</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Both Pender Harbour and Nanaimo are considered part of “the
Sunshine Coast,” and it was living up to its name. While many marinas have the
equivalent of a “Dinghy Dock Pub,” Nanaimo’s is the only one we’ve been to that
is actually located on a floating dock. We enjoyed a couple of beers there
before returning to the boat for a Mexican dinner. That night, we enjoyed a
free blues concert in the cockpit, which resounded across the water to the anchorage
from a venue in downtown Nanaimo.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next day, we (and several dozen other boats) had the
hook up early to catch slack water at Dodd Narrows. As we approached Dodd
Narrows and I looked behind us, the steady stream of boats exiting Nanaimo
reminded me of commuter traffic at rush hour. We passed through an industrial
part of Nanaimo en route to the narrows, and I realized it is a big lumber
port. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0K0My_yUXgBPrpg6La6nkaXsW8Fy2yIaUSf7I5X8cKLp06xdYSmYnidnrzRQKFNYCiUbpHrRJJW5A9qlF4KurLSpFHGlgkAMoDcbVFXYAdvy2nlYxEbd-6cKyv7BBQpp9_xxWWrxSkgA5/s1600/P1130898_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0K0My_yUXgBPrpg6La6nkaXsW8Fy2yIaUSf7I5X8cKLp06xdYSmYnidnrzRQKFNYCiUbpHrRJJW5A9qlF4KurLSpFHGlgkAMoDcbVFXYAdvy2nlYxEbd-6cKyv7BBQpp9_xxWWrxSkgA5/s1600/P1130898_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Wood chip barge being filled</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtptUm_InqWRe94hegjKRDj29rQr8ZXRAOGaH6ydBBvhBjkmOWq79KsAGk2CAgsD00Ml6bdWr63Vk_UvKCUl1eEEiCMytbjLLt06Wc3vWDxvanKjuvPgJBmgSEkjjLkYpLlSphyphenhyphenh9I3LCM/s1600/P1130901_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtptUm_InqWRe94hegjKRDj29rQr8ZXRAOGaH6ydBBvhBjkmOWq79KsAGk2CAgsD00Ml6bdWr63Vk_UvKCUl1eEEiCMytbjLLt06Wc3vWDxvanKjuvPgJBmgSEkjjLkYpLlSphyphenhyphenh9I3LCM/s1600/P1130901_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Watering down logs to keep them from heating up too much</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Although short, Dodd Narrows is the narrowest narrows we’ve
been through yet. We were lucky that morning all the boats went through in
single file and we weren’t slammed by any wakes. As we exited the narrows, we saw
two tugs with log tows waiting to enter Dodd Narrows from the south! One of
them would clearly fill the entire narrows, and a short time later, we heard
its Securite call. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXu8mStE88D1zh1QM8K6XFYNxvDm9V8hKIK1N0KLYIQ64W_iIadT2MYkbYLjqQEDz4Mdte1G6Efb0eCjUin9sWiTPWNOyr_aZfhp4cA0TYLlZxa4JqX_IkswoCU7idfTqVIsD_p2JPOO7/s1600/P1130904_resize.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXu8mStE88D1zh1QM8K6XFYNxvDm9V8hKIK1N0KLYIQ64W_iIadT2MYkbYLjqQEDz4Mdte1G6Efb0eCjUin9sWiTPWNOyr_aZfhp4cA0TYLlZxa4JqX_IkswoCU7idfTqVIsD_p2JPOO7/s1600/P1130904_resize.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Boats heading single-file southbound through Dodd Narrows</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We anchored that night in Ganges on Saltspring Island in the
Gulf Islands. I had heard about Ganges from many boaters, but somehow, I
pictured it to be smaller and quieter than it was. Ganges was so full of summer
boaters, that we could barely find room to anchor. It had several marinas, all
of which appeared to be packed full of boats. There were also a lot of occupied
mooring buoys in the bay. I searched in vain for Patrick’s old trimaran, <i>Bacchanal</i>, which had been left on a
mooring in Ganges the last time we’d heard from his new owner three years ago.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>The Waggoner Cruising
Guide </i>cites Ganges as a “foodie haven,” so naturally we had to sample the
fare. There are two restaurants in Ganges with their own organic gardens that
grow produce for their menu, the Hastings House and the Harbour House. We
didn’t visit either of these this time, but wandering around town came across
the bustling Tree House Café. I have to write a plug for this restaurant
because the food was some of the most creative and delicious of our entire
voyage, and it was reasonably priced. The Tree House also had excellent live
music for the cost of a donation. It is an open-air restaurant, and all of the
seating is basically outdoors; however, no alcohol is served at the tables in
front of the café. We really enjoyed our evening out.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ironically, sitting next to us at the Tree House, was Mark Bunzel (the publisher of <a href="http://waggonerguide.com/" target="_blank"><i>Waggoner Cruising Guide</i></a>) and his daughter. Patrick
recognized him but I didn’t. We got to talking to each other over dinner (the
seating is very close), and Mark started asking us about our boat. When he heard
it was a Cabo Rico, he asked if we had gotten it in San Francisco. (Most Cabo Ricos are from the east coast.) It turned
out that Mark had actually sailed on <i>Silhouette</i>
with two of its former owners. He had even flown parts and supplies to <i>Silhouette</i> in Mazatlan on his small plane! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When we returned to the boat that evening, a glorious
sunset was coloring the sky. It was a perfect way to end the day in our last
Canadian anchorage. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSvK0BqP-Sd80aGxmNhP_b-Du25NZKCml3nEhc7kS7wPYqR7EZz-WrSR-47JZQUN5NJgeij1yrRkoZVV-Pro6j2Yqyhn6V7wrZAxPK2vfe1zklzcRyQIZIoct31Rm1YCKkt4E3nZ5gNTQ/s1600/P1130908_resize.JPG" height="266" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sunset over the anchorage in Ganges</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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</div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-51514314081265663362014-08-26T08:33:00.001-07:002014-08-26T08:33:51.557-07:00British Columbia North: Prince Rupert to Cape Caution<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>August 5-15, 2014</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Channels upon channels, upon straits, upon passages, upon
more channels…It is easy to imagine the early explorers getting lost in British
Columbia’s (BC’s) labyrinthine
waterways. I frequently lose track of where we are and have to run to consult
the chart. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We checked into Canadian Customs in Prince Rupert, which as
far as I can tell, is the only port of entry into the west coast of Canada from
the north. Prince Rupert was the biggest city we’d seen since Honolulu, and it
turned out to be rather industrial. I don’t think I’d make a point of a return
visit, except for the obvious requirement of checking into BC Customs. (You
don’t actually check in at “BC Customs,” as labeled on the chart; you check
in at the Lightering dock or at the yacht club.) </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP8nTemDJ-dNIcKLWE8eTsEkOymSZvFvGZQvC7JlyTMApw0dxENzMSMgQrjlxh1G1TSnqL_sTi6RO-49o5PTt_pfCBU8Kr7c_RViYIjyury5mQitvkm-rofgetCLOTyMegsY9g3f98PtW/s1600/Prince+Rupert+BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP8nTemDJ-dNIcKLWE8eTsEkOymSZvFvGZQvC7JlyTMApw0dxENzMSMgQrjlxh1G1TSnqL_sTi6RO-49o5PTt_pfCBU8Kr7c_RViYIjyury5mQitvkm-rofgetCLOTyMegsY9g3f98PtW/s1600/Prince+Rupert+BC.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Prince Rupert, British Columbia</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKc2quiqg4nlBMj2ZVOjdb385zAw1zLC5Y1sOpEBoE6BBf-q5FCWQjCDMqlDnKGSwljfKEG7YBIwA2Uz3E1Lw5_iYa8f4s3mgTetOKN2e89H8esiVHZ1mIMDFZDwcdm241L6pf9S8Kecw/s1600/Port+of+Prince+Rupert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKc2quiqg4nlBMj2ZVOjdb385zAw1zLC5Y1sOpEBoE6BBf-q5FCWQjCDMqlDnKGSwljfKEG7YBIwA2Uz3E1Lw5_iYa8f4s3mgTetOKN2e89H8esiVHZ1mIMDFZDwcdm241L6pf9S8Kecw/s1600/Port+of+Prince+Rupert.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The port of Prince Rupert</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Prince Rupert Rowing and
Yacht Club was one of the best things about Prince Rupert. They had a helpful,
friendly staff, one of whom met us at the dock to take our lines: the beginning of a courtesy that we found
throughout British Columbia. While a nicety for us, it is especially helpful
for single-handers. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOmOvibQwsWDWp0e1SVeHGxP4GFSrGAIUKYPLSWu4OWatBPskYP_DNj4cYvPCumoWHOWp6Oy7rDEgohZUl0U_coMr1GMkhLq9cCEqbkb50TqQlcr5MsPsMR9bixpMd_K1r7_Vz4VCq6oqx/s1600/PRRYC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOmOvibQwsWDWp0e1SVeHGxP4GFSrGAIUKYPLSWu4OWatBPskYP_DNj4cYvPCumoWHOWp6Oy7rDEgohZUl0U_coMr1GMkhLq9cCEqbkb50TqQlcr5MsPsMR9bixpMd_K1r7_Vz4VCq6oqx/s1600/PRRYC.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The friendly Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The most interesting story I came away from Prince Rupert with
is about a Japanese fishing boat, the <i>Kazu
Maru</i>. Its owner had gone out fishing in Japan, a year and a half previous
to the discovery of the boat in British Columbia, and was never heard from
again. A year and a half later, the boat washed ashore on the Queen Charlotte
Islands (Haida Gwaii) near Prince Rupert. The boat turned out to be from Prince
Rupert’s sister city in Japan, Owase. The city built a memorial for the boat,
and the fisherman’s widow came to the opening ceremony. The event is reported
to have brought the two sister cities closer together. The boat, along with
various Japanese shrines on the same property, were surrounded by cyclone
fencing when I visited. I didn’t take a picture. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After resupplying in Prince Rupert, we headed south through
Grenville Channel. Although we had some sunshine during our stay in Prince
Rupert, the day we left, we were back to the more typical weather we’ve had
this summer.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacdHPd0ZFggMVx5pG5iFFYJ7kErEmHuPTqS_0E5kG9DkF24U_ntJUCuhEmIkF5swrUiatPR7tNFMrZUj9h4zgRUkMx5m-Z2hQNoAhZz-YjcIoxxtL347rZFENAvkt478QI07eiKXp6z28/s1600/Prince+Rupert+Weather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacdHPd0ZFggMVx5pG5iFFYJ7kErEmHuPTqS_0E5kG9DkF24U_ntJUCuhEmIkF5swrUiatPR7tNFMrZUj9h4zgRUkMx5m-Z2hQNoAhZz-YjcIoxxtL347rZFENAvkt478QI07eiKXp6z28/s1600/Prince+Rupert+Weather.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Prince Rupert's weather gives it the nickname "Rainy Rupert"</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Due to the fact that we were running short on time, we
didn’t take the more scenic, outside route. Grenville Channel is a straight-cut
channel, the shortest distance between two points. We broke up the monotony of
this run by anchoring overnight in Baker Inlet, a lovely, if at-the-time rainy,
anchorage. The next morning, after the mists and fog cleared, we at least
experienced no precipitation. Exiting Grenville Channel, we anchored in an open
roadstead, Coghlan Anchorage. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQiq9UKazNWlrSds9FUsjH-EN1VU10_uEd2GWXKaIRTN_xeEkgvQ2ECNVN-ylo7bfYeq9NFcAnqN7ri7nCHC61U9UDCPOMwaA5wDsKj8aqXcof6kQ9LweP6haWMMYt5IDR3GU-P8IJx0A/s1600/Misty+morning+in+Grenville+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQiq9UKazNWlrSds9FUsjH-EN1VU10_uEd2GWXKaIRTN_xeEkgvQ2ECNVN-ylo7bfYeq9NFcAnqN7ri7nCHC61U9UDCPOMwaA5wDsKj8aqXcof6kQ9LweP6haWMMYt5IDR3GU-P8IJx0A/s1600/Misty+morning+in+Grenville+Channel.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Misty morning in Grenville Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW5fFaBuT-4z7IumJzVeVL-4cadQVL_h9_XGTRwa8b6SD_6m8dNu0-Mop9IridN7mfGkOKg9JHr20bGJgXMsFUyUqxekykKJIQydold6yBvZgWj8LK1QiZp4o8MgKIlbq6hRy3Mb2RfoQ/s1600/Grenville+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW5fFaBuT-4z7IumJzVeVL-4cadQVL_h9_XGTRwa8b6SD_6m8dNu0-Mop9IridN7mfGkOKg9JHr20bGJgXMsFUyUqxekykKJIQydold6yBvZgWj8LK1QiZp4o8MgKIlbq6hRy3Mb2RfoQ/s1600/Grenville+Channel.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The sun breaks through in Grenville Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Leaving Coghlan Anchorage, we were at a crossroads where five
or six major channels came together from all directions. While I was curious
about the intriguing Verney Passage up one side of Gil island, we had to table
that voyage for a future trip. Instead, we headed for Princess Royal Channel,
which is composed of three sections:
McKay Reach, Fraser Reach, and Graham Reach. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmb8cOaeb3c3cd6pp439_7LfIzx8O-glsM6rYYjeYOsm5roE-ihfXbPGiFJWMJBjzVYcKQrd6g0DvCQgUYpkP4ONBoxA-tbXtqk_CFxgpJRs3mNlaYPjRS_xD7ph7rUdrNWwZd2D0cNdb/s1600/Bowl+en+route+to+Graham+Reach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmb8cOaeb3c3cd6pp439_7LfIzx8O-glsM6rYYjeYOsm5roE-ihfXbPGiFJWMJBjzVYcKQrd6g0DvCQgUYpkP4ONBoxA-tbXtqk_CFxgpJRs3mNlaYPjRS_xD7ph7rUdrNWwZd2D0cNdb/s1600/Bowl+en+route+to+Graham+Reach.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Topography en route to Princess Royal Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-KMDMh6NBoogLtMm4YnypqETJMO1KM6t9n8XuOgZekgGQxJF7OrIzMEVAFPuFLI4o-SxoM1LIemFJGskzILoI2QzenIESq5mvEGav5_HtXXWGJWDb0aivaNJMdLrCH_RbUoZCf2s9C5f/s1600/Graham+Reach+in+Princess+Royal+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-KMDMh6NBoogLtMm4YnypqETJMO1KM6t9n8XuOgZekgGQxJF7OrIzMEVAFPuFLI4o-SxoM1LIemFJGskzILoI2QzenIESq5mvEGav5_HtXXWGJWDb0aivaNJMdLrCH_RbUoZCf2s9C5f/s1600/Graham+Reach+in+Princess+Royal+Channel.jpg" height="252" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Graham Reach, Princess Royal Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Heading south in Princess Royal Channel, Princess Royal
Island is on your starboard side. It is here, Patrick tells me, where spirit
bears live. Spirit bears, also known as Kermode bears, are a subspecies of
black bear that have a white coat due to inheriting two recessive genes, one
from each parent. They are not the same as albinos. We kept our eyes peeled,
but since there are few good anchorages on that side of Princess Royal Island,
the likelihood of us spotting a spirit bear while in transit was miniscule. Instead, we
stopped for the night on the other side of the channel in Khutze Inlet. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Khutze
Inlet proved to be my favorite anchorage in northern BC. It reminded me a
little of Red Bluff Bay on Baranof Island due to its lavish waterfalls,
abundant wildlife, and bear meadow. Even though it had a luscious bear meadow,
we did not see any bears: Either they
are wary of hunters at this location or, like the bears at Anan Creek, they
were all congregated at another salmon stream at the time we visited. We saw
some hefty salmon in the inlet, which indicates that the Khutze River itself is
a viable spawning stream. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpVedTM53uIumdfjlKuyZl090Se462PbW7urnjQuPkfOWCfP8aAwkl6uYDHMWFKr0U5RTuIRxPdZ4E4CGAgvDYTDFcbZKaZRBgehsz51GizVY3evo5Oj0H6jwvs9vU32YD9UyZ1ebsjCB/s1600/Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpVedTM53uIumdfjlKuyZl090Se462PbW7urnjQuPkfOWCfP8aAwkl6uYDHMWFKr0U5RTuIRxPdZ4E4CGAgvDYTDFcbZKaZRBgehsz51GizVY3evo5Oj0H6jwvs9vU32YD9UyZ1ebsjCB/s1600/Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Khutze Inlet has a magnificent setting</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsq5Xrn2y0W1MadN8-rA02q-7cmKWNRxv9A2Txt9_Iu0LvNTIXbYl4ey7bG6RjVNkNrkSDWxMlY88jAx63Se5WvBY1snYDoYxNj8kzUiGUO4GxmzV7b1pHSLtWXtsmIA_FfPgjmTAq7yh/s1600/Boaters+exploring+the+waterfall+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsq5Xrn2y0W1MadN8-rA02q-7cmKWNRxv9A2Txt9_Iu0LvNTIXbYl4ey7bG6RjVNkNrkSDWxMlY88jAx63Se5WvBY1snYDoYxNj8kzUiGUO4GxmzV7b1pHSLtWXtsmIA_FfPgjmTAq7yh/s1600/Boaters+exploring+the+waterfall+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Boaters exploring the base of the waterfall in Khutze inlet</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKgAAvNHQzDjJ0e4W8jbaZrJAGIZVKq3rzC5MPEt3tWEAJDWJxSqsISG4CmlzTHwGXU852694Z1Xadezh3FP4R_UudoO6vRp50VRDSniAOCQ83eUr1NcaZvddEOHokVo_UY2uZ9EskJpBT/s1600/Silhouette+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKgAAvNHQzDjJ0e4W8jbaZrJAGIZVKq3rzC5MPEt3tWEAJDWJxSqsISG4CmlzTHwGXU852694Z1Xadezh3FP4R_UudoO6vRp50VRDSniAOCQ83eUr1NcaZvddEOHokVo_UY2uZ9EskJpBT/s1600/Silhouette+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette at anchor with the waterfall in the background</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaiEsxz6z27Tdm1g9ZHZBOWzWbmFeUMs7ygExCzMLGq8fU_mrD7NgojuHnZtcl22tvNZyWAb-KXXOgYb5cXFKKM7c0ocTWrlRSguWy4HA00qXzQetZj2Fl8NNtcsACpiGY5LLt6VKdZxq/s1600/Split+falls+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaiEsxz6z27Tdm1g9ZHZBOWzWbmFeUMs7ygExCzMLGq8fU_mrD7NgojuHnZtcl22tvNZyWAb-KXXOgYb5cXFKKM7c0ocTWrlRSguWy4HA00qXzQetZj2Fl8NNtcsACpiGY5LLt6VKdZxq/s1600/Split+falls+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another falls in the inlet</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There was a multitude of seals in Khutze Inlet, as well
several eagles striking dramatic poses. The seals, as they always do, reminded
me of old souls. Unfortunately, my photography did not do justice to the
eagles. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeXp4Wmnqnp5a0WqFnJ_7lEUYwX07_T3NAQ-KI3IQFM9IYo9vv7bBbs_2s6AJgX5P-dTfDkFMJEG1U6uBEmwDTwoqBqRf5_N6xbpimfj2muUUhASsakK0j5w5isJhlihCDn3_vzj5m8VE/s1600/Old+salt+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeXp4Wmnqnp5a0WqFnJ_7lEUYwX07_T3NAQ-KI3IQFM9IYo9vv7bBbs_2s6AJgX5P-dTfDkFMJEG1U6uBEmwDTwoqBqRf5_N6xbpimfj2muUUhASsakK0j5w5isJhlihCDn3_vzj5m8VE/s1600/Old+salt+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An old salt in Khutze Inlet</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSY9x6ITdznBvW76MoGhiDbQPfHJoQqggSuDq6H6YEX7sj7Q1IYwUmeP71D_azIoiFP9eUYGwCesGUc-zGCjblGNtusGspyOZGI5XiK8WWa9lReehLuDKBuJhqQxERDtOexGiIn8RoTjpR/s1600/Seals+hauled+out+on+a+drying+sand+spit+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSY9x6ITdznBvW76MoGhiDbQPfHJoQqggSuDq6H6YEX7sj7Q1IYwUmeP71D_azIoiFP9eUYGwCesGUc-zGCjblGNtusGspyOZGI5XiK8WWa9lReehLuDKBuJhqQxERDtOexGiIn8RoTjpR/s1600/Seals+hauled+out+on+a+drying+sand+spit+in+Khutze+Inlet.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Seals hauled out on a drying sand spit</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Upon leaving Khutze Inlet on August 10, we poked our nose
into a former logging community, Swanson Bay, but the fog prevented us from
seeing much of the remaining ruins. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpTjxhnpg-dSHpiK7pmZYI6bV0CMN8_Z03y5XXidiRbIXdeKkWOEqTAnCqTypSMxyBE8hpANZFYlM4nu3sDHmF-536eBW92nIFNJquPtnkiSYwC7CzECd41d08q6_fcyPML1JdJQ8AOFe/s1600/Misty+morning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpTjxhnpg-dSHpiK7pmZYI6bV0CMN8_Z03y5XXidiRbIXdeKkWOEqTAnCqTypSMxyBE8hpANZFYlM4nu3sDHmF-536eBW92nIFNJquPtnkiSYwC7CzECd41d08q6_fcyPML1JdJQ8AOFe/s1600/Misty+morning.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Misty morning in Swanson Bay</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We also took a detour down Butedale Passage
to see the collapsing cannery at Butedale, the oldest cannery on this part of the coast. In the days before
refrigeration, all of the salmon caught in British Columbia and Alaska were
canned. Engine-powered boats towed the fishing boats out to the fishing
grounds, where they drifted and the fishermen hand trolled for salmon. The catch
was brought back to the cannery. When an area was fished out, the cannery was
closed down, and the fishing fleet moved on. There is now a “caretaker” at
Butedale, and he has experimented with several variations on making a living,
including charging for moorage and selling ice, bait, and ice-cream during the
summer.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfXq9ugLWyj9Ew4nriwgVc4ROOvanXQHUBDy70D_iEcJZH9cytS1udJO_S6Wfj3_dcHr_3htnGMxwCk44apeSsOpBCRrolQmEon6JITKUEbCJoccx-hrdGw-mZjRSdfcZKOfMmL4v2fgt/s1600/Ice+Cream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfXq9ugLWyj9Ew4nriwgVc4ROOvanXQHUBDy70D_iEcJZH9cytS1udJO_S6Wfj3_dcHr_3htnGMxwCk44apeSsOpBCRrolQmEon6JITKUEbCJoccx-hrdGw-mZjRSdfcZKOfMmL4v2fgt/s1600/Ice+Cream.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ice cream was formerly sold to boaters at Butedale</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisld-Asl3o4TrxPMC7wtnOH-Ii0gYkGGhOU-nhhO-MDntvN6eenLKjeruqzFLSxIx6xmsBNK-zaoHlPM7xr3-KWdi2jsZgy4VY8wGl09wB8JxhjV-HKqIZSYXs9itdAaBjEuN11QwzZgG6/s1600/Butedale+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisld-Asl3o4TrxPMC7wtnOH-Ii0gYkGGhOU-nhhO-MDntvN6eenLKjeruqzFLSxIx6xmsBNK-zaoHlPM7xr3-KWdi2jsZgy4VY8wGl09wB8JxhjV-HKqIZSYXs9itdAaBjEuN11QwzZgG6/s1600/Butedale+falls.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Butedale Falls are another lovely falls</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkK1c56tcqhvY8Dl6HzjPGEpi-ZHQeI6IMq0O7Rw2PndnW1sjgzjZ1x1ZD_adRK2C5_YvbL4RDJ7ERSewsfM496t68cNv7rS4YfvCBY9O7df62BafHZj5Mstd1f4sReeVEWv3ct77Nv-X_/s1600/Butedale+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkK1c56tcqhvY8Dl6HzjPGEpi-ZHQeI6IMq0O7Rw2PndnW1sjgzjZ1x1ZD_adRK2C5_YvbL4RDJ7ERSewsfM496t68cNv7rS4YfvCBY9O7df62BafHZj5Mstd1f4sReeVEWv3ct77Nv-X_/s1600/Butedale+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Part of the old cannery complex at Butedale</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KfCRZhkUvPqfSqYoVaDEJ0WUOTzBWRSp7VA2d2gdQERWNpBYR0G87UaAvj-5xPUB_1fuW6N3M6alWodXRCP6skT6ix5Ncz4lGtBmx7iViPxyGbW0OIzPVnRAjsZcAG_C_koHvzhyphenhyphenOtY1/s1600/Butedale+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KfCRZhkUvPqfSqYoVaDEJ0WUOTzBWRSp7VA2d2gdQERWNpBYR0G87UaAvj-5xPUB_1fuW6N3M6alWodXRCP6skT6ix5Ncz4lGtBmx7iViPxyGbW0OIzPVnRAjsZcAG_C_koHvzhyphenhyphenOtY1/s1600/Butedale+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The main building of the old cannery</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguB6LMptjXyWBNfPzjWzrhM5OCEUYl7tWcGuv-ycJVLLvkRmSIZ7ugkAcZiITAb8glCHONLWjsr28rQMaZVpohaitEzJKo-GHAdGcITiQvGm6CZX0XTOArMbZs69yATZsYeWjd1txLUFwa/s1600/Butedale+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguB6LMptjXyWBNfPzjWzrhM5OCEUYl7tWcGuv-ycJVLLvkRmSIZ7ugkAcZiITAb8glCHONLWjsr28rQMaZVpohaitEzJKo-GHAdGcITiQvGm6CZX0XTOArMbZs69yATZsYeWjd1txLUFwa/s1600/Butedale+3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This may have been where the cannery workers lived</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Exi</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">ting Princess Royal Channel, the sun broke through as we
passed Boat Bluff in the early afternoon.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDG42jWzGTLskEXhO0U3VFU5N9Ub7-CyFfUs9W_-ycNQDpX1fe3YX7KFPgPph2JIsAq-AR7bVHCuwJXggOBhRrITDhyphenhyphenytZNuN06gPa8mPH3c6zh_qUr28GdfOtaPbEMSLX45KD-zOScNd4/s1600/Lighthouse+complex+at+Boat+Bluff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDG42jWzGTLskEXhO0U3VFU5N9Ub7-CyFfUs9W_-ycNQDpX1fe3YX7KFPgPph2JIsAq-AR7bVHCuwJXggOBhRrITDhyphenhyphenytZNuN06gPa8mPH3c6zh_qUr28GdfOtaPbEMSLX45KD-zOScNd4/s1600/Lighthouse+complex+at+Boat+Bluff.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lighthouse complex at Boat Bluff: The yellow drums hold diesel to run the generator </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8z0eOJFUT91DI9DYofbcUSXbZV1EgEX2eaGT-C6qZRcgJUqdZnqA_cdbhXnUy7hMRo4QTje98Q_cZ0UMq3mW0qtUM32Lg_a8D6O78cJMo_4nFvk1dGBcDm3lYXW8JJcz06jR14Ty-ldI3/s1600/Leaving+Princess+Royal+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8z0eOJFUT91DI9DYofbcUSXbZV1EgEX2eaGT-C6qZRcgJUqdZnqA_cdbhXnUy7hMRo4QTje98Q_cZ0UMq3mW0qtUM32Lg_a8D6O78cJMo_4nFvk1dGBcDm3lYXW8JJcz06jR14Ty-ldI3/s1600/Leaving+Princess+Royal+Channel.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Exiting Princess Royal Channel into Finlayson Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We had two more passages, and one more narrows, to go
through before we could rest that evening. From Finlayson Channel, we followed
Jackson Passage and gave a Securite call before entering the short Jackson
Narrows. At the end of Jackson Narrows, we rounded a point into Rescue Cove to
anchor up for the evening. Here, we saw our first Canada geese: a sign that we were getting closer to home.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iIhFQZGu0ZHOamo6N7VxSOPpx5fXvWurHa7JTR7XucjTbAlun7kmAya4QHSbXa0iDtRFRixLssb7fcU2o_gKwOc817RfwsLI2W3uk1n8hIRW7llVL5-Zsmhbf9DEfCGjumR_a7QlM_ek/s1600/Aquaculture+operation+in+Jackson+Passage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iIhFQZGu0ZHOamo6N7VxSOPpx5fXvWurHa7JTR7XucjTbAlun7kmAya4QHSbXa0iDtRFRixLssb7fcU2o_gKwOc817RfwsLI2W3uk1n8hIRW7llVL5-Zsmhbf9DEfCGjumR_a7QlM_ek/s1600/Aquaculture+operation+in+Jackson+Passage.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Aquaculture operation in Jackson Passage: one of many in BC</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entrance to Rescue Cove (from inside the cove)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The following day, we headed for Shearwater, the main town
and supply point for central coastal British Columbia. On the way, we passed the Dryad
Point Lighthouse and the town of Bella Bella, consisting of “old” Bella Bella
and “new” Bella Bella, on opposite sides of the channel. The dock and anchorage
at Shearwater were very crowded, but we managed to find a spot to anchor out in
deep water (70’). Here, we bought groceries, used the Internet, and had a
welcome meal out at the pub. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Laundry day at Dryad Point Lighthouse</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDBhBi6tLBVqAsFTBA771BPGfD71CbdW7ftHjxo_pHhVdTMl4h3AZ_ldrLrumRWbTXNI_5bdAQ6dZC3I9AJt1sIEelxXEfAmtlQVxoWdMmbiJEFA9Jr2QLFnyweGzv_Fwn3q4RA2-Mdj5/s1600/Bed+and+Breakfast+near+Shearwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDBhBi6tLBVqAsFTBA771BPGfD71CbdW7ftHjxo_pHhVdTMl4h3AZ_ldrLrumRWbTXNI_5bdAQ6dZC3I9AJt1sIEelxXEfAmtlQVxoWdMmbiJEFA9Jr2QLFnyweGzv_Fwn3q4RA2-Mdj5/s1600/Bed+and+Breakfast+near+Shearwater.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A bed and breakfast near Shearwater</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkssl4i5LKyMi1HBojjfg8QsKqnZfbVvbr82YV1GiWn0KwKJWtNIu4aRjv67fssUeP7g7S8i93eP5qBEXMjAOUyvPzMmloVIhuaty3cu7YRhV7_bByODPL9TaqiXjPbHRgQE9C7ZtK73MJ/s1600/Multicultural+mural+at+Shearwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkssl4i5LKyMi1HBojjfg8QsKqnZfbVvbr82YV1GiWn0KwKJWtNIu4aRjv67fssUeP7g7S8i93eP5qBEXMjAOUyvPzMmloVIhuaty3cu7YRhV7_bByODPL9TaqiXjPbHRgQE9C7ZtK73MJ/s1600/Multicultural+mural+at+Shearwater.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Multicultural mural at Shearwater highlights those who have contributed to the community</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qMaBx35ioVFMVyd6eyYSaaMdzdPZ-45zsDaFev2iNtHcE9jZYPMqUfN0rT7HUGK4RMTBaJ92pKeBx833cvBsTG2GZBpZ6sXPBzGUg_6CFrCFYK7WNuKPrdZeKC_I1A56Xr51t1Je318l/s1600/Old+Bella+Bella.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qMaBx35ioVFMVyd6eyYSaaMdzdPZ-45zsDaFev2iNtHcE9jZYPMqUfN0rT7HUGK4RMTBaJ92pKeBx833cvBsTG2GZBpZ6sXPBzGUg_6CFrCFYK7WNuKPrdZeKC_I1A56Xr51t1Je318l/s1600/Old+Bella+Bella.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Old Bella Bella</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEies9tQtATXuRKZ2r1ZJU9u-TuZpV1ibVUwCsXR6iXI_GQMLTgmLPCu-lGx2ZHWG_rV6HXQToHScqzc2LzsEYbkW0N1J8oUWOjwKd0V9KrGK1C6JnfgnQyeZyqiQtO9YzBddTWpHfWe5SOY/s1600/Burial+ground+on+Bella+Bella+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEies9tQtATXuRKZ2r1ZJU9u-TuZpV1ibVUwCsXR6iXI_GQMLTgmLPCu-lGx2ZHWG_rV6HXQToHScqzc2LzsEYbkW0N1J8oUWOjwKd0V9KrGK1C6JnfgnQyeZyqiQtO9YzBddTWpHfWe5SOY/s1600/Burial+ground+on+Bella+Bella+Island.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Burial ground on Bella Bella Island</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Continuing on our way, we had planned to stop for the night
in an anchorage called “Namu.” We ended up anchoring in Codville Lagoon
instead, when both unforecast wind on the nose and heavy fog in Fitz Hugh Sound
stood between us and our destination. The following morning, we still had heavy
fog and zero visibility, but at least there was no wind and the seas were calm.
We began a pattern that would last for the next several days: Patrick manned the helm, while I manned the
radar, as we slowly made our way down Fitz Hugh Sound to Quenn Charlotte Sound.
The fog cleared around noon that day, and we anchored in Fury Cove, preparing
to round Cape Caution the next day. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I didn't take any pictures of Fury Cove, but it was a
pretty, land-locked (at low tide) anchorage amid exposed islets and waves
crashing against the shore. Fury Cove is a popular place to wait for weather to
round Cape Caution, so it was fairly crowded. At low tide, there is a lovely
sandy beach, where many cruisers walked
their dogs, and where Patrick has seen bear in less crowded conditions. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We rounded Cape Caution the next day without incident.
Conditions were calm in this sometimes-challenging part of the coast. I
definitely felt that Cape Caution was more exposed than Dixon Entrance; it is
the only time since making landfall at Sitka that I have seriously felt “the
motion of the ocean.” After checking out a potential anchorage behind Knight
Island (closer to our route), we elected to transit the four miles into Allison
Harbour to anchor up for the evening. Allison Harbour was not all that
protected, but it beat the exposure, depth, and log boom debris behind Knight
Island. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we again left in heavy fog. Fog and
Northern British Columbia are now synonymous to me, although perhaps they
shouldn’t be. Maybe this is an unusual year. However, on this day, we navigated
through dense fog---with from zero up to 1/8 mile visibility---from 9:00 a.m.
until 4:00 p.m. We find it extremely taxing and draining navigating through
fog, even with all the help you get from radar and AIS (Automated Identification
System). For one thing, in British Columbia, you are not just keeping a lookout
for boats, but for logs, of which there are many. Due to the logging industry,
and the practice of towing logs in large rafts from which there are escapees,
many logs are found floating in BC waters. Add to this the driftwood logs
which are carried off the beaches at the highest tides of the month (which we
happened to be experiencing at the time), and you have a real navigation
hazard. We crossed Queen Charlotte Strait in the heavy fog. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After the fog cleared at 1600, I noticed that the dominant
tree species on the islands around us was now Douglas Fir. As we pulled into
Port McNeill on the northern tip of Vancouver Island, the concentration of
boats with their home ports in Seattle, Anacortes, Kirkland, and Gig Harbor---as well as a couple of arriving float plane flights on Kenmore Air---supplied further incontrovertible evidence that we were getting closer to home.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At 5:00 p.m. on August 15, we anchored off Port McNeill. We
had made it to southern British Columbia. </span></span></div>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-10248260857975052652014-08-16T21:17:00.000-07:002014-08-16T21:17:05.781-07:00Behm Canal to Misty Fjords<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>July 31-August 3,
2014</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In addition to skipping the cruise ship scene in Ketchikan,
another thing that resupplying in Thorne Bay allowed us to do was to complete a
circumnavigation of Revillagigedo Island via Behm Canal. Originally, we had
planned to go to Ketchikan, and then just run up the south end of Behm Canal to
Misty Fjords National Monument. It would have been a bit shorter to run up and
back than to start the circumnavigation from Ketchikan, and since we are time
conscious at this point in our travels, we had planned on taking the former
route. Stopping in Thorne Bay allowed us do the circumnavigation without a loss
of time and with the added benefit seeing new territory instead of traveling
twice over the same ground. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The trip through Behm Canal was one of the most relaxing
parts of our entire voyage through Southeast Alaska. For one, the sun had come
out, and we had four glorious days of full sun. Too, it was one of the only
parts of Southeast Alaska where we saw few other boats, even in the National
Monument itself. We didn’t get good radio reception in parts of the canal, so
for me, it was also a break from the endless fishing boat chatter, as well as
the more important Securite calls and other information affecting navigation, that we listened to constantly in the main channels.
The downside of the lack of radio reception was that we also couldn’t get the weather radio along the
north side of Revillagigedo Island. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-SBxL9hdjkOm9qBmoZ8RMwoI_j5XrXP-1dv7cE65SN6rd1gxEV3xhqDNab-JIrVChLJ_b5J02WGusqcnt-CW2ffZSvrmblwFQr5u9Ua82kcdAUamWb-hr-B4ec4T0af8opCnBfKbLdzE/s1600/Estuary+in+Port+Stuart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-SBxL9hdjkOm9qBmoZ8RMwoI_j5XrXP-1dv7cE65SN6rd1gxEV3xhqDNab-JIrVChLJ_b5J02WGusqcnt-CW2ffZSvrmblwFQr5u9Ua82kcdAUamWb-hr-B4ec4T0af8opCnBfKbLdzE/s1600/Estuary+in+Port+Stuart.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">View from a pocket estuary in Port Stuart</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The highlight of our trip through Behm Canal was visiting
Misty Fjords National Monument. We toured the spectacular Walker Cove but did
not anchor. The mooring buoy there was occupied; and although we considered
anchoring on a shelf at the head of the bay, we decided to continue on to
Rudyerd Bay. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4VxI_rSglbXgoQngDLRAuhbt1-HbMwZLyWDt7ayM-g_hWyYweC8e6eR_6t828jq9PCxV10sULVxjjOar0n_cpG3_UAGVKd9_oRmCPuF_rroTRJM2y763iTk-VHPt0NqX_s5wNlHKxjVzO/s1600/Entrance+to+Walker+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4VxI_rSglbXgoQngDLRAuhbt1-HbMwZLyWDt7ayM-g_hWyYweC8e6eR_6t828jq9PCxV10sULVxjjOar0n_cpG3_UAGVKd9_oRmCPuF_rroTRJM2y763iTk-VHPt0NqX_s5wNlHKxjVzO/s1600/Entrance+to+Walker+Cove.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entrance to Walker Cove, Misty Fjords</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScG87jaRxaX7SCDHrJ8GqQ1ZD9Ejgn1L4sZyXAkIkP5akMrUdxUw5oQinTk8H8C-LQmS7XAhzsqQyOd-axAmEkyp_YLUMDvd71KirB8A_eAICklptVLnfvRo0pSkChOwpMtnihnoyeMjf/s1600/Morning+strikes+the+mountain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScG87jaRxaX7SCDHrJ8GqQ1ZD9Ejgn1L4sZyXAkIkP5akMrUdxUw5oQinTk8H8C-LQmS7XAhzsqQyOd-axAmEkyp_YLUMDvd71KirB8A_eAICklptVLnfvRo0pSkChOwpMtnihnoyeMjf/s1600/Morning+strikes+the+mountain.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Morning sun strikes the mountain</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdrsLRPeEB6149RNWkzssUVME-rjZQVCkFqBpu6GkpkERVbiQDgO36dwOP3dpNTY5tpP3Zd5jHEzbHt4qAkqkgnJHjUOv8sh9Qu3HK-gdVgKh-1oSR2kIfzkkLerOcgZe54YYxuRyynxaN/s1600/Head+of+Walker+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdrsLRPeEB6149RNWkzssUVME-rjZQVCkFqBpu6GkpkERVbiQDgO36dwOP3dpNTY5tpP3Zd5jHEzbHt4qAkqkgnJHjUOv8sh9Qu3HK-gdVgKh-1oSR2kIfzkkLerOcgZe54YYxuRyynxaN/s1600/Head+of+Walker+Arm.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Head of Walker Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Since we arrived in Misty Fjords during uncharacteristically
dry weather, the landscape was void of the dozens---perhaps hundreds---of cascades
that there was evidence usually tumbled down the steep granite faces. It being
late in the season, there was also an absence of snow on most of the peaks. It
didn’t take much imagination to see that Misty Fjords would present an entirely
different experience early in the season. It is the type of place you can visit
multiple times and never see the same thing twice. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Misty Fjords is only accessible by boat or float plane. We only
saw one other cruising boat in each of the two coves we visited, but we saw
many float planes. I joked to Patrick that the place ought to be renamed the
Misty Fjords Flyway! Sometimes, the noise from the planes can be intrusive, but
they do provide some exciting scenery! Tour boats also visit the upper arm of
Rudyerd Bay, a place we didn’t make it to. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ7IyO3hDWoKIVYnEEk_iGdAKVF-SfNajqYNl-BV9I9SuAWff37pIOOlvNqyaaK9uu8dDE-J7EmUMj07Y_Lwy3q6gEmNohb3bkGlaB-WakXvjq1jhSaAUWVTDvd6aMjgXyj5csJCd8WzBc/s1600/Preparing+for+takeoff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ7IyO3hDWoKIVYnEEk_iGdAKVF-SfNajqYNl-BV9I9SuAWff37pIOOlvNqyaaK9uu8dDE-J7EmUMj07Y_Lwy3q6gEmNohb3bkGlaB-WakXvjq1jhSaAUWVTDvd6aMjgXyj5csJCd8WzBc/s1600/Preparing+for+takeoff.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Preparing for take-off, Walker Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ2cKEFldifXn7nEEwS_Q7ixe59pnBvfVaeGI40oCgeMn03ugd0RYtURG6_xA25qmwSykba2vYgd8-g7a5iglx1W1rQyVZqC2L0eHAu-pjwomEv8n28WQcfaXuORIT4r87LUZM4SnKOQV/s1600/Float+plane+in+Rudyerd+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ2cKEFldifXn7nEEwS_Q7ixe59pnBvfVaeGI40oCgeMn03ugd0RYtURG6_xA25qmwSykba2vYgd8-g7a5iglx1W1rQyVZqC2L0eHAu-pjwomEv8n28WQcfaXuORIT4r87LUZM4SnKOQV/s1600/Float+plane+in+Rudyerd+Bay.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Float plane in Rudyerd Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVmQ1D5lDxF0SONWFhsG_mL_fuON0LhFmgKtcpZlshqdDBe7AP2xhKJsK5Zo0Eky6-uvyn0dDcDOPjVUvdX6vz00Uu5Zm02fuwVWxUdOSi4Y5QcvswGciSFnhzZwtzSy1NemX3FDQlC3g/s1600/Float+plane+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVmQ1D5lDxF0SONWFhsG_mL_fuON0LhFmgKtcpZlshqdDBe7AP2xhKJsK5Zo0Eky6-uvyn0dDcDOPjVUvdX6vz00Uu5Zm02fuwVWxUdOSi4Y5QcvswGciSFnhzZwtzSy1NemX3FDQlC3g/s1600/Float+plane+1.jpg" height="287" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Float plane leaving Rudyerd Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Rudyerd Bay proved even more dramatic than Walker Cove. Even
though the mooring buoy was unoccupied, we chose to anchor bow and stern in
Punchbowl Cove. That first night, we were the only boat in the anchorage, and
we were in sight of the 3000’ cliff that rises straight up from the salt water.
As the sun set, we watched the cliff rose up with color. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYM8qnV_u7bucae7OF7u8uEnz_OBg_unufZ4oCSENX_rOSwwDi3TfaY54oD9079o8tpjKpb66t0EsWFcBc4PB-S3m57LwInFK6GBrUsbgFwFYWA78GtS74yDsmZLwwFP5kn5LZWoK-IesA/s1600/Big+Wall+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYM8qnV_u7bucae7OF7u8uEnz_OBg_unufZ4oCSENX_rOSwwDi3TfaY54oD9079o8tpjKpb66t0EsWFcBc4PB-S3m57LwInFK6GBrUsbgFwFYWA78GtS74yDsmZLwwFP5kn5LZWoK-IesA/s1600/Big+Wall+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" height="310" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Approaching the big wall at Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCiiauLp6zuo6zioO02-7qisHc-ke7kG7abEiUUWv2SCmDtW4b-BWvjnhzha7TnqVqNJYTpEnd3MoSwB-IS7P8-UTdnK70Ayc8YUNy_D_1Wt4XLgf-XvZTSDmG1hq2cswQBHSX56rfSEX/s1600/The+Big+Wall+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCiiauLp6zuo6zioO02-7qisHc-ke7kG7abEiUUWv2SCmDtW4b-BWvjnhzha7TnqVqNJYTpEnd3MoSwB-IS7P8-UTdnK70Ayc8YUNy_D_1Wt4XLgf-XvZTSDmG1hq2cswQBHSX56rfSEX/s1600/The+Big+Wall+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another view of the big wall showing its flutes and folds</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2TYp2MLhJ1g06jNhERGq-XlX8XpgYJ9ddbJgUSYF9xgRsr5_8eHhVZpOaetrSNdcwyV21kXTUez3Wdm6pKpeuXB7LpXGi9cjBwToWK1DL1C0iPv0C_NDn_UqiFcGwpvUcTRAYfMq4mv3/s1600/Sunset+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2TYp2MLhJ1g06jNhERGq-XlX8XpgYJ9ddbJgUSYF9xgRsr5_8eHhVZpOaetrSNdcwyV21kXTUez3Wdm6pKpeuXB7LpXGi9cjBwToWK1DL1C0iPv0C_NDn_UqiFcGwpvUcTRAYfMq4mv3/s1600/Sunset+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sunset over Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxFHc4OE4tyE-4Cj6ydyIpg6-QgcoFU7q9Y6L15B-EXgIujd7LrSc3jxRTeLyh7sDxUM8fRewYy9HL9FIjglg-FayItsPW88uhnYKqrxBrdPugR7_8aTtVQlAFj4RHwhCR-IlqZ6TL9bMn/s1600/Silhouette+anchored+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxFHc4OE4tyE-4Cj6ydyIpg6-QgcoFU7q9Y6L15B-EXgIujd7LrSc3jxRTeLyh7sDxUM8fRewYy9HL9FIjglg-FayItsPW88uhnYKqrxBrdPugR7_8aTtVQlAFj4RHwhCR-IlqZ6TL9bMn/s1600/Silhouette+anchored+in+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette at anchor in Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we launched the dinghy and headed for the
trailhead for a hike to Punchbowl Lake. The trailhead was marked by a striped Forest Service sign in the south end of the cove. The hike is
about 1-1.5 miles long, with a steep middle section. Overall, the trail is
maintained from large obstructions like windfall; however, there were loose and
rotted boards in parts of the boardwalk and it was a bit of a scramble in sections:
Proceed with caution. It was however, a beautiful forest trail that led to the head of the waterfall flowing out of it. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAlaozEqDT-GPnq5hSULOnjqpvcvvt2Xzb3k793ADAxdPQ_lh_drVFp7H3OV5m35xQKQ5zKQxcV1WibGDYJn7ymS4nh9V7v0Pxl_5u2RPgu1sSZ_ZbYds7k4U-0aZ5IomKItLM2gxmTLU/s1600/Trailhead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAlaozEqDT-GPnq5hSULOnjqpvcvvt2Xzb3k793ADAxdPQ_lh_drVFp7H3OV5m35xQKQ5zKQxcV1WibGDYJn7ymS4nh9V7v0Pxl_5u2RPgu1sSZ_ZbYds7k4U-0aZ5IomKItLM2gxmTLU/s1600/Trailhead.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Trailhead at Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNVLh3YLDwL0FbWHnJ4vchQKHdY7HBj_N0e8zpBdRSv1ikTYF3IbBGuoen2YPglKdF26wCywSFUt9R9swaTc9_FCLLLxOaKODIGSNJ_-1UQOOANrsUmqYUUre-rSrC-qQFXTlz6_tPBB2/s1600/Deteriorating+boardwalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNVLh3YLDwL0FbWHnJ4vchQKHdY7HBj_N0e8zpBdRSv1ikTYF3IbBGuoen2YPglKdF26wCywSFUt9R9swaTc9_FCLLLxOaKODIGSNJ_-1UQOOANrsUmqYUUre-rSrC-qQFXTlz6_tPBB2/s1600/Deteriorating+boardwalk.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Steps along the old boardwalk</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2LQs8r186LEHEXFxB3MJay9wHwukXtlQR0TIaL6Oa-jxUTwK1JlZKn-_UtmnFpJ_IYFeTXU1CpOfsR-Tt2yrZwWv5fQfcWRX3daPVXY7zxsxEB5hmgM7AzLCecb5Ui1sMRofULSbuJAai/s1600/Moss+garden+on+root+wad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2LQs8r186LEHEXFxB3MJay9wHwukXtlQR0TIaL6Oa-jxUTwK1JlZKn-_UtmnFpJ_IYFeTXU1CpOfsR-Tt2yrZwWv5fQfcWRX3daPVXY7zxsxEB5hmgM7AzLCecb5Ui1sMRofULSbuJAai/s1600/Moss+garden+on+root+wad.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Moss garden on root wad of fallen tree </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgklugBaPBpcZIrUT1KOn6k9V_XjZfAWOqOjP4EmXhlvy21XPruknJn1cqx5SwSJ_G2VR6lrhuepIoxMhv4Qu9yikYMcmxadNxWgy1M6kK9FF-R3ZivRonijbSlESYxdEY-EPAm9dVOe3WV/s1600/Waterfall+PD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgklugBaPBpcZIrUT1KOn6k9V_XjZfAWOqOjP4EmXhlvy21XPruknJn1cqx5SwSJ_G2VR6lrhuepIoxMhv4Qu9yikYMcmxadNxWgy1M6kK9FF-R3ZivRonijbSlESYxdEY-EPAm9dVOe3WV/s1600/Waterfall+PD.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Waterfall feeding Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">According to protocol for hiking in bear country, we talked loudly and made noise as we hiked. Periodically, we called, "Hey, bear!"; we clapped; and we sometimes made a whooping noise that sounded like we were whooping for joy. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQN1SimWQkMUypzxtb976se9KDg0Yq_BjI9IEzFQrCqIz8tZDVwNcppKPNSWopceJg9wKGBjB1_eqFiPICyF_7eq2y9s6xWyAFsEVuN6x1jtAuu9Co6pzLBL53FcAi9n8L1MXpo5gaG1s4/s1600/Patrick+doing+the+bear+whoop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQN1SimWQkMUypzxtb976se9KDg0Yq_BjI9IEzFQrCqIz8tZDVwNcppKPNSWopceJg9wKGBjB1_eqFiPICyF_7eq2y9s6xWyAFsEVuN6x1jtAuu9Co6pzLBL53FcAi9n8L1MXpo5gaG1s4/s1600/Patrick+doing+the+bear+whoop.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick doing the bear whoop for the camera</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We saw bear prints along the trail and scat close to the
lake outlet. From the size of the paw prints, I think they were black bear, but
I could be mistaken. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HWUfJHl1tYitcFnIe9vbyqeDw0IJHUUXpREO5MRCqdYR9AWkb1EZC9SK3sHRrvL8HGIHBPzPOLZIDb2HZymmvmjBQPCk6gDGHDeZmJzFxHAmxsG_FWzI6nzVS1Xp3d6VXt54WgbDOoUT/s1600/Paw+print+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HWUfJHl1tYitcFnIe9vbyqeDw0IJHUUXpREO5MRCqdYR9AWkb1EZC9SK3sHRrvL8HGIHBPzPOLZIDb2HZymmvmjBQPCk6gDGHDeZmJzFxHAmxsG_FWzI6nzVS1Xp3d6VXt54WgbDOoUT/s1600/Paw+print+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pawprints with claws</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz1dlGs5Rick95Six4mQhxS686hbP5fTU9YuQFCDdoVLaJ9W0jgMRmgtw03TqPbP0cdQB1lk3M8i1irrdyE6Wju9Qj-AMuLTMxmCt4M946GvZmRhGi4M9Vf7knp-8XJtQiANT_gGfR6Ze/s1600/Pawprints+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz1dlGs5Rick95Six4mQhxS686hbP5fTU9YuQFCDdoVLaJ9W0jgMRmgtw03TqPbP0cdQB1lk3M8i1irrdyE6Wju9Qj-AMuLTMxmCt4M946GvZmRhGi4M9Vf7knp-8XJtQiANT_gGfR6Ze/s1600/Pawprints+2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These hind feet prints look like a cub's</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhteXB8UbuMwIuUjuH6yY3v0f-AYkNIbPMbJaccIe4ImAByrkPn-MfVmqnJo5wJf0bP5NLtlQ8hl44mHH_w5iK39y5hWHo7iwNaSNmcpauwRYT1SsKjc2Ej0vD_VTgcbF0oa-3_eLTpBk7b/s1600/Our+first+view+of+the+lake+PD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhteXB8UbuMwIuUjuH6yY3v0f-AYkNIbPMbJaccIe4ImAByrkPn-MfVmqnJo5wJf0bP5NLtlQ8hl44mHH_w5iK39y5hWHo7iwNaSNmcpauwRYT1SsKjc2Ej0vD_VTgcbF0oa-3_eLTpBk7b/s1600/Our+first+view+of+the+lake+PD.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our first view of Punchbowl Lake</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZ0_2U-HU_o1vVMDMOEOL7W1HSNDn89jaTdtkqIaqSz3JupkFb5OOpMHqlAm6lavn9K-ZK_h_5ju2zfrx843Q8HdO91PwZv0RSycz9cB4FTFCp-YOocTp5UfoQdcT0nk4GRTfR5_G4juj/s1600/Log+jam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZ0_2U-HU_o1vVMDMOEOL7W1HSNDn89jaTdtkqIaqSz3JupkFb5OOpMHqlAm6lavn9K-ZK_h_5ju2zfrx843Q8HdO91PwZv0RSycz9cB4FTFCp-YOocTp5UfoQdcT0nk4GRTfR5_G4juj/s1600/Log+jam.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Log jam at lake outlet</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVeHd_wyGsiBkPfjcpV6TEZ1WfIQH9EzlAv6LJRyY04Cmgc-_P4em_VjMkT7CCa8xmGLfPlj4m0SGVggdcshMJ5NmkyWhUiEI-4Epu9h7d5DLjIyFhR5OrVuATI29kLTRdgF-x2Jrb-1M/s1600/Punchbowl+Lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVeHd_wyGsiBkPfjcpV6TEZ1WfIQH9EzlAv6LJRyY04Cmgc-_P4em_VjMkT7CCa8xmGLfPlj4m0SGVggdcshMJ5NmkyWhUiEI-4Epu9h7d5DLjIyFhR5OrVuATI29kLTRdgF-x2Jrb-1M/s1600/Punchbowl+Lake.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Punchbowl Lake</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFzkoH4ZIdkoIf1bbcjFntmFMb3EI62BOtYqtlqE-0Ju69TXE1W-P-9FnriuF7_dcYBEyWDR9zJkaoWFpJyIN6eMQDKWFQ00Dzb5JnJjfz1XP1OwY6A7krRPaLvMV7ZtLez5Git3Ziwuv/s1600/Tenacious.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFzkoH4ZIdkoIf1bbcjFntmFMb3EI62BOtYqtlqE-0Ju69TXE1W-P-9FnriuF7_dcYBEyWDR9zJkaoWFpJyIN6eMQDKWFQ00Dzb5JnJjfz1XP1OwY6A7krRPaLvMV7ZtLez5Git3Ziwuv/s1600/Tenacious.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tenacious trees: view looking up a steep granite face</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvsptcuCT5_q1mqD0iay3SAjEXtaMp7U1hyphenhyphenq55BGy69M2c8SvnIVHNxb_cE7KsE8Q_pBb2_dqFE-4wF64vpL102vtNi-FeZzQ8z_5gJvrloVLZ3K9Yr8agDHaK8iXsE_lS4b75V8JtAOp/s1600/Frog+in+the+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcvsptcuCT5_q1mqD0iay3SAjEXtaMp7U1hyphenhyphenq55BGy69M2c8SvnIVHNxb_cE7KsE8Q_pBb2_dqFE-4wF64vpL102vtNi-FeZzQ8z_5gJvrloVLZ3K9Yr8agDHaK8iXsE_lS4b75V8JtAOp/s1600/Frog+in+the+forest.jpg" height="264" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Frog in the forest</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Once at the lake, the trail continues along to a Forest Service
Shelter. We had to love the U.S. Forest Service when we discovered both a
rowboat and a canoe were available at the shelter for exploring the lake! The
rowboat seated eight, and was too heavy for Patrick and I to haul out of the
water back onto its wooden sled when we were done with it; so we opted for the
Kevlar canoe instead. We found the paddles stored aloft in the shelter and made
the short portage to the lakeside. After adjusting to being in the tippy canoe,
we got in synch and paddled around the point into larger Punchbowl Lake. One
could launch a multi-day expedition to explore all of Punchbowl Lake; we just
paddled a portion of it. Paddling along the bases of the big walls in semi-silence,
the only sound the lap of the paddles entering the water, was truly something. </span></span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3C-mq5aSSJzACFV3BgbmkW3TVGrQSjOgGDRhgeWX3-5AO12Bn3Hk1FhYMvNYCUUKhso4BAMjyEIKIszPnHaOuJiGqHQU38LGzodaTsD7Ap-gFpoQbpxVIrNgsXHhRMCwrfk8q3R-tSZC/s1600/Signing+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3C-mq5aSSJzACFV3BgbmkW3TVGrQSjOgGDRhgeWX3-5AO12Bn3Hk1FhYMvNYCUUKhso4BAMjyEIKIszPnHaOuJiGqHQU38LGzodaTsD7Ap-gFpoQbpxVIrNgsXHhRMCwrfk8q3R-tSZC/s1600/Signing+in.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Signing into the register at the Forest Service shelter; the canoe we paddled is at rear</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16sKcOk2yKxcAjZLgyeb7nH0QloeyDmwHWofK0HCw4dymnOUoVq6Tgl98DjWGaMgaMX99tBMbictAiN0cEHTJ-sfYzWsZWVJrQVmbH0jlFKMNViwlZowJ2NV7kOuMZlzlhBcWWzTFWEHE/s1600/Big+walls+at+Punchbowl+Lake+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16sKcOk2yKxcAjZLgyeb7nH0QloeyDmwHWofK0HCw4dymnOUoVq6Tgl98DjWGaMgaMX99tBMbictAiN0cEHTJ-sfYzWsZWVJrQVmbH0jlFKMNViwlZowJ2NV7kOuMZlzlhBcWWzTFWEHE/s1600/Big+walls+at+Punchbowl+Lake+2.jpg" height="289" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Big walls at Punchbowl Lake</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptxImoyy450mDpBa0yvHoygE-mn10BVhwSRxCgNOgvPryEMi6iVLKgmgutwt-4mgixt341vH9Cg_BLS2UK_B5inBPCs8oR4LOH8kA4-tpnR_hhLv6yd64r-IUpgyXfzZg6_510hg1RBfB/s1600/Raptor+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptxImoyy450mDpBa0yvHoygE-mn10BVhwSRxCgNOgvPryEMi6iVLKgmgutwt-4mgixt341vH9Cg_BLS2UK_B5inBPCs8oR4LOH8kA4-tpnR_hhLv6yd64r-IUpgyXfzZg6_510hg1RBfB/s1600/Raptor+Wall.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick noted that this face looks like a raptor watching over the lake</span></span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL5gZXrEqV9wIqyrrJGNW8m8VR35fFxaCqBRE6wp7-Q1wUEGsfAfdESFriKbfYTDkjPVr1xR7duxusvdcCsRZRUYGAD-adRL0wrJTqha_aL7vDfSONSHpu59H9HgtduYewFAWseQpnCioT/s1600/Lakeside+trail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL5gZXrEqV9wIqyrrJGNW8m8VR35fFxaCqBRE6wp7-Q1wUEGsfAfdESFriKbfYTDkjPVr1xR7duxusvdcCsRZRUYGAD-adRL0wrJTqha_aL7vDfSONSHpu59H9HgtduYewFAWseQpnCioT/s1600/Lakeside+trail.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lakeside trail through fading skunk cabbage</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJRr8cwhtugEke_PaSCom1asjFUGoNoL5geK1NszCw7diyNu3YAETJE4nO1j9ovjKVBEUjSPgj8EC9ZG_0o4jM2c1qH4n66slkPlxF8zYiF25HRwBQb7nVRn_mqShFsERBOUHejBn5DRI/s1600/Lake+outflow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJRr8cwhtugEke_PaSCom1asjFUGoNoL5geK1NszCw7diyNu3YAETJE4nO1j9ovjKVBEUjSPgj8EC9ZG_0o4jM2c1qH4n66slkPlxF8zYiF25HRwBQb7nVRn_mqShFsERBOUHejBn5DRI/s1600/Lake+outflow.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lake outflow</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVl6EIDAF0isJZAb1WuoulkbC8L8X-m3F7c8av737S4ydigOJN4gD3on47Hr2QIUf3vqdp5wiDHzq3T58pScKHZd5K9JT_1dP8QXzAa5FLsJltudmTtp8iNOKfIvetC2sJp6xEk339H2Q/s1600/Stump.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVl6EIDAF0isJZAb1WuoulkbC8L8X-m3F7c8av737S4ydigOJN4gD3on47Hr2QIUf3vqdp5wiDHzq3T58pScKHZd5K9JT_1dP8QXzAa5FLsJltudmTtp8iNOKfIvetC2sJp6xEk339H2Q/s1600/Stump.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stump along the trail</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0EoYB_OK_bqt2wU6bBKKVQh_9U3zv7WzldXXXJl-Q3BgGHZgFFl7MHrb7m6ugROIdREs3GQiQL0aQiHsrGfcnLDlSaDXdtzCW6rhcKoPEsbNkRXJb6rUuZ4GZ710lj4LUpLC6BeX85EaM/s1600/Steps+along+the+trail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0EoYB_OK_bqt2wU6bBKKVQh_9U3zv7WzldXXXJl-Q3BgGHZgFFl7MHrb7m6ugROIdREs3GQiQL0aQiHsrGfcnLDlSaDXdtzCW6rhcKoPEsbNkRXJb6rUuZ4GZ710lj4LUpLC6BeX85EaM/s1600/Steps+along+the+trail.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This trail feature utilized a fallen log</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As we arrived back at the dinghy after our hike, we observed
that another sailboat had arrived and was on the mooring buoy. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Later that afternoon, we took the dinghy to explore the rest
of Rudyerd Bay. (A better plan would be to tour the bay with your boat before
anchoring, but we arrived late in the evening after our stop at Walker Cove.)
We were only able to see a small portion of the rest of the bay, but it was
enough to stare slack-jawed in amazement, as even bigger and steeper granite
walls followed the ones preceding them. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwnxw7uPxviVlkOux5oeNdrpvOdel_7XssBLAInsLMxpS-P8EdxRvi799tzzjkMe00aqZndX_AfdZLnnNLDjBBJoZbLDg1QTmlv6FcY3G5DA9Jd1gszMCsijq5CoTRoF3tNRHrpZtJan6/s1600/Granite+peaks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwnxw7uPxviVlkOux5oeNdrpvOdel_7XssBLAInsLMxpS-P8EdxRvi799tzzjkMe00aqZndX_AfdZLnnNLDjBBJoZbLDg1QTmlv6FcY3G5DA9Jd1gszMCsijq5CoTRoF3tNRHrpZtJan6/s1600/Granite+peaks.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Granite peaks in Rudyerd Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DSJA6Ab2ZF1yxABlWto8miRqDNeWvZ3GiMgBmzeczywc9dhj4FCQ9qrg0fjMKmBxnKMtrUl4L4xYujPIcg4Kh1dscTdcCykh-n5ftD4O_HLcvMbyIVa2kVl_jH61Q1yjLKZ6L6LVM0ER/s1600/Saddle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DSJA6Ab2ZF1yxABlWto8miRqDNeWvZ3GiMgBmzeczywc9dhj4FCQ9qrg0fjMKmBxnKMtrUl4L4xYujPIcg4Kh1dscTdcCykh-n5ftD4O_HLcvMbyIVa2kVl_jH61Q1yjLKZ6L6LVM0ER/s1600/Saddle.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I could see a possible route up to this saddle</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Misty Fjords is definitely a place I would like to return
to. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KngSDw8-akOUlQAiQ6qF3a6mz7SppfryVOAB5Jgzk4mhYGFqARLEpilKeAhzCUrLnSeB9hEbxY3MULvpXwsIGFu6VKdmDz0r5jfk1B-hQz9mIWuruU1m7mzykbYjcbFqfdlC7tgYd12n/s1600/Shoreline+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KngSDw8-akOUlQAiQ6qF3a6mz7SppfryVOAB5Jgzk4mhYGFqARLEpilKeAhzCUrLnSeB9hEbxY3MULvpXwsIGFu6VKdmDz0r5jfk1B-hQz9mIWuruU1m7mzykbYjcbFqfdlC7tgYd12n/s1600/Shoreline+Punchbowl+Cove.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Misty morning at Punchbowl Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">By this time in our journey, we were noticing the transition
from Southeast Alaska to British Columbia (B.C.), which actually happens around
Ketchikan, prior to entering B.C. The landscape had lost some of its ruggedness
(Misty Fjords aside) and overall, had softer edges. There were fewer eagles;
although this possibly may have been attributed to the fact that the eagles in
the region were concentrated at salmon spawning streams such as Anan Creek.
Most of the Sitka spruce had disappeared from the forest canopy, and while yellow
cedar was still dominant, I began to see individuals of Washington’s own
Western red cedar, <i>Thuja plicata</i>,
interspersed among the yellow cedar. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">During our hikes to Anan Creek and Punchbowl Lake, we also noticed
reminders of the passage of time. When we made landfall in Sitka, the berries
on the Devil’s club were green, and the bunchberry were flowering. </span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa-0hBpQkFCseqkky-MaHxgm9TcBz9g10TJnvkSQ4PBW_ALVqLG292m4uSrUImflzF6GV_BhTltXatCmH5260Jf5p52SQGtXeYii2QwDuNWcq_8ERTcnRKrGYD5_YdvoxofQ2aQJ_GoQS/s1600/Devil's+club.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa-0hBpQkFCseqkky-MaHxgm9TcBz9g10TJnvkSQ4PBW_ALVqLG292m4uSrUImflzF6GV_BhTltXatCmH5260Jf5p52SQGtXeYii2QwDuNWcq_8ERTcnRKrGYD5_YdvoxofQ2aQJ_GoQS/s1600/Devil's%2Bclub.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Red Devil's club berries remind us that the northwest summer is coming to a close</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WFCdI-rl3OB-zz5JbkgzvDJTjPbRmj5TMsc1C54FPCyEV5FXWm92hf1Lpoif9TUe4BoKZD8mn8YxFCMcEiv0LRSvoOq53fXfPPUPa_GzSSlO0g-pXimrq51FgTh9iANEXfg3u6lh26iM/s1600/Bunchberry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WFCdI-rl3OB-zz5JbkgzvDJTjPbRmj5TMsc1C54FPCyEV5FXWm92hf1Lpoif9TUe4BoKZD8mn8YxFCMcEiv0LRSvoOq53fXfPPUPa_GzSSlO0g-pXimrq51FgTh9iANEXfg3u6lh26iM/s1600/Bunchberry.jpg" height="291" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The bunchberry had white petals in place of the red berries when we arrived in Sitka</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As we left Behm Canal, we headed for our last anchorage in
Southeast Alaska, a small cove near Fort Tongass. The next day we would cross
the border into our first new country in almost eight months: Canada. We would temporarily leave the United
States in order to return to the United States and our home in Seattle. </span></span></div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-24911141932974188312014-08-12T10:15:00.003-07:002014-08-17T21:36:37.673-07:00Into the Banana Belt: Petersburg to Thorne Bay<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>July 25-30, 2014</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The region between Petersburg and Ketchikan is known, among
Alaskans, as “the Banana Belt.” The moniker derives from the mild temperatures
and warmer weather experienced here compared to the rest of Alaska. However,
our initial experience of the Banana Belt did not live up to its name. We
arrived in Petersburg just as a series of lows was entering the southeastern Panhandle.
Although we had nice weather when we arrived in Petersburg, by the time we
left, it was raining steadily. The rain was to continue for the next six days. We
could not seem to shake the damp, overcast weather that had made up the
majority of our days since leaving Sitka. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Vd6dx-hhwdL2ShbcijKDUar1s8sYCSuCdFf9pgRVDYpdgTbHkgalna3x1GED0WlPB5Ia8Ykyr9skGe1vkWkslknzm0WsUuKAewx7f1tR1n3uYl1QLBCuwk6VXpoeeds7hNLuXJnZP7fd/s1600/Our+typical+Banana+Belt+weather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Vd6dx-hhwdL2ShbcijKDUar1s8sYCSuCdFf9pgRVDYpdgTbHkgalna3x1GED0WlPB5Ia8Ykyr9skGe1vkWkslknzm0WsUuKAewx7f1tR1n3uYl1QLBCuwk6VXpoeeds7hNLuXJnZP7fd/s1600/Our+typical+Banana+Belt+weather.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our typical "Banana Belt" weather</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Petersburg, we continued south via Wrangell Narrows.
Wrangell Narrows is one of several narrows in southeast Alaska---named for
their slim channels of deep, navigable water bordered by shoal depths on either
side---but it is most famous for having over 70 navigation aids peppering its
length. At night, it is known as "Christmas Tree Lane."</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNXsO-xc9Dv1_U2fYkK-YHSQ1L1Z01UrhuPXCXYvnD3FTNLEOPDPOFwaAkXpwCdrjjvvvyMcnX48OB3cZ59nPeJghnysxWhFS4QJzM6yrrcJhl6a_FB2zjTEF6XxaU9ilAqh8pRzMeKoB/s1600/Wrangell+Narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNXsO-xc9Dv1_U2fYkK-YHSQ1L1Z01UrhuPXCXYvnD3FTNLEOPDPOFwaAkXpwCdrjjvvvyMcnX48OB3cZ59nPeJghnysxWhFS4QJzM6yrrcJhl6a_FB2zjTEF6XxaU9ilAqh8pRzMeKoB/s1600/Wrangell+Narrows.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some of the many aids to navigation in Wrangell Narrows</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Wrangell Narrows is a manmade channel, dredged out to make a
convenient north-south passage where none existed. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our goal for the day was to make it to Wrangell, but after
transiting the 20-mile narrows in mostly rain and exiting to Sumner
Strait---where we discovered our course to Wrangell lay in 20 knots of wind
(and rain) on the nose---we decided to quite early for the day. We shut down
the diesel, set the jib, and sailed on a reach across to St. John’s Harbor,
where we anchored up for the night. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next day, we still had wind and rain on the nose; but we
were refreshed, and we tacked <i>Silhouette </i>back
and forth across the channel most of the way to Wrangell. When the wind died, we
motored in and took a slip in Reliance Harbor. We arrived at the dock at 3:30
p.m. Unbeknownst to us (until the following day), at 4:00 p.m., Ray Troll was
giving a lecture and hosting a poster signing in the Cultural Center as part of
an annual, week-long event called “Bear Fest.” We arrived in Wrangell on the
second-to-last day of Bear Fest, missed the key note speaker, and did not
participate in the “fun runs” that comprised the main events during the last
day of Bear Fest. We were also unable to shop for groceries, as that last day
of Bear Fest fell on a Sunday, when the two grocery stores in Wrangell are
closed.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Reliance Harbor is a working harbor with many fishing boats
and few pleasure craft. We didn’t tour the newer harbor, New Heritage Harbor,
which is farther from town. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixgk_h1gZyyU_YWyuYDSmFOsPXAs96AoFE0NMnmi_mtq9N8u3zJIDF-D0KX0IZQk-7Gq6UKJBeAkZ7Wv0ox0vQ3WpcBAPrzppwpnIe-NwYLasE7q3wa2SVgVSPIqaCcNDOxOI0Gk-aYmTr/s1600/Silhouette+in+Reliance+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixgk_h1gZyyU_YWyuYDSmFOsPXAs96AoFE0NMnmi_mtq9N8u3zJIDF-D0KX0IZQk-7Gq6UKJBeAkZ7Wv0ox0vQ3WpcBAPrzppwpnIe-NwYLasE7q3wa2SVgVSPIqaCcNDOxOI0Gk-aYmTr/s1600/Silhouette+in+Reliance+Harbor.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette (center) in Reliance Harbor</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3A4QKRgyE82AiCkZDgHSrrW9CL32EpbCp6K4UGRETVsL6P8E9OdVJE6enXutCQRWy5OU3KRTTUuvxUiFK_sSLo5vxUrch1CfO5vUZKUiy5QmfmfVsnGMe7M907xSk4ppy37WgKI4lnXD/s1600/Tidal+grid+and+Reliance+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3A4QKRgyE82AiCkZDgHSrrW9CL32EpbCp6K4UGRETVsL6P8E9OdVJE6enXutCQRWy5OU3KRTTUuvxUiFK_sSLo5vxUrch1CfO5vUZKUiy5QmfmfVsnGMe7M907xSk4ppy37WgKI4lnXD/s1600/Tidal+grid+and+Reliance+Harbor.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tidal grid overlooking Reliance Harbor</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJQbbl8x9KXfoP2fdyORAa_45FvdR-nHbOIlI22a9T0i42EnkgkrYKCMzid23Fls8srHfVjqHbXzgcia_OkxHcRJoB4WXHhhnjB3RNuYEYDtuAPvrPnYrXSTfFQPo6riLISqK-Ke_ihNr/s1600/Skiff+at+low+tide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJQbbl8x9KXfoP2fdyORAa_45FvdR-nHbOIlI22a9T0i42EnkgkrYKCMzid23Fls8srHfVjqHbXzgcia_OkxHcRJoB4WXHhhnjB3RNuYEYDtuAPvrPnYrXSTfFQPo6riLISqK-Ke_ihNr/s1600/Skiff+at+low+tide.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Skiff at low tide</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We visited Shakes Island and the Tlingit longhouse there. We
only saw the outside of the longhouse, because the door was locked. The interpretive sign Patrick remembered from a previous visit was missing, and it looked like the
cultural site was under intensive restoration, as the Eagle
and Raven poles that Patrick remembered as standing, were now prone, under the
protection of sheds. Seeing the totems in a horizontal position really gave you
a sense of how tall they actually are. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRrBdDwrMhpZVR8uXmBbbFYpU9O0WdVEv-cytuYdFjhvk2ic41D2V0hRPwhuwZmsbhr_hhgoC2rHO2U0S-afs8bQBB8aZRklCH-7Zs3fgvc9g4Nk_q1ieTrolz4zKVjAHfFfn3IzTetbB/s1600/Longhouse+on+Shakes+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRrBdDwrMhpZVR8uXmBbbFYpU9O0WdVEv-cytuYdFjhvk2ic41D2V0hRPwhuwZmsbhr_hhgoC2rHO2U0S-afs8bQBB8aZRklCH-7Zs3fgvc9g4Nk_q1ieTrolz4zKVjAHfFfn3IzTetbB/s1600/Longhouse+on+Shakes+Island.jpg" height="253" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Shakes Island Longhouse</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7oLGekW1KS1gs9MFgiDwQ0no5qWGJV2_PknwcuZszAszctW0oZuy_oiMf_-M27ynQJ1a7Q1GW0mTtpOfpFfgPrAQ-l53HeZWboMKTeOVWZyJbp28Whme2SkGR-u9w6Vv9wLcKs56GOVX/s1600/Interpretive+Sign+Mount.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7oLGekW1KS1gs9MFgiDwQ0no5qWGJV2_PknwcuZszAszctW0oZuy_oiMf_-M27ynQJ1a7Q1GW0mTtpOfpFfgPrAQ-l53HeZWboMKTeOVWZyJbp28Whme2SkGR-u9w6Vv9wLcKs56GOVX/s1600/Interpretive+Sign+Mount.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mount for missing interpretive sign</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9CinxT8rYLNg2XFTqnM73xANxQ1G9Y4Her8wSqSVJMwGSOx9GCnO-kOX1xJlm-jPQURRCSVWcH51-oERps5yGu0EAZCDTQCvAH7C8Vj2czTXYzvF71_JM3e0QqEimI3jG_4EwXF_DRSK/s1600/Eagle+Clan+Pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9CinxT8rYLNg2XFTqnM73xANxQ1G9Y4Her8wSqSVJMwGSOx9GCnO-kOX1xJlm-jPQURRCSVWcH51-oERps5yGu0EAZCDTQCvAH7C8Vj2czTXYzvF71_JM3e0QqEimI3jG_4EwXF_DRSK/s1600/Eagle+Clan+Pole.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Eagle clan pole under shed</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjf4bf7nmquk_DzK9V0WT9a5Nxjj7sUWgfGglcTAy8FF7r2MCHuXKlnOG0j__5sUUVpLaIVJdDqaKCY317fmp5iQVrmRyV-QautulpoTZEFKlo3uEUMQd4JFDK-5jEOMzVnMqMY2j6HmAl/s1600/Raven+Clan+Pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjf4bf7nmquk_DzK9V0WT9a5Nxjj7sUWgfGglcTAy8FF7r2MCHuXKlnOG0j__5sUUVpLaIVJdDqaKCY317fmp5iQVrmRyV-QautulpoTZEFKlo3uEUMQd4JFDK-5jEOMzVnMqMY2j6HmAl/s1600/Raven+Clan+Pole.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Raven clan pole under shed</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjctn97TosLdUsCqBCxVAC5FEZjIxd55qIdp2HrbJlxBM3kD9M23u1wqqGNxV9zNc2W2gGphEIFSwtX-MqkAKAhGWTTUS3VHKKhG0WWznpr8hdc38a8JtqsyIAPyn96zjsdVr0D9drt8K4N/s1600/Petroglyph.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjctn97TosLdUsCqBCxVAC5FEZjIxd55qIdp2HrbJlxBM3kD9M23u1wqqGNxV9zNc2W2gGphEIFSwtX-MqkAKAhGWTTUS3VHKKhG0WWznpr8hdc38a8JtqsyIAPyn96zjsdVr0D9drt8K4N/s1600/Petroglyph.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The rain on this slab revealed what might have been a petroglyph: I did not see it the previous day when the stone was dry</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We only spent one night in Wrangell, then headed down the
east side of Wrangell Island towards Anan Bay. Patrick had visited the bears at
Anan Creek once before and wanted me to share the experience. Since there is no
tenable anchorage for small craft at Anan Bay, we anchored six miles away in
Fool's Inlet. Fool's Inlet was a pretty bay with a couple of islets that seals
hauled out on. It was also inundated with crab pots, steady as she goes</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We followed the ranger’s directions and showed up first thing
in the morning to see if there were any permits available for the day. (A limit
of 60 people are allowed in to Anan Creek per day, and all the permits were
booked when we checked the reservation calendar. However, like Glacier Bay,
some permits are held in reserve for last-minute planning.) The ranger had told
us to show up early; “First come, first served.” However, it turned out that
they couldn’t tell us if any permits were available until noon at the earliest.
A cruise boat was in at Wrangell, and our ability to obtain a permit depended
on how many permits the cruise boat passengers used. We should have just stayed
in the anchorage and called on the radio. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After an hour and a half dinghy ride over to Anan Bay to be told,
“Check back with us at noon,” we debated whether or not we should hang out for
three hours or return to the boat. As the rain started falling, we decided to
return to the boat. We got some chores done, and had basically decided to wait
until the next day to try for a permit again, when at 1:20 p.m., we got a call
from the rangers at Anan Creek. They had two permits available for the
afternoon! So we dinghied the 6 miles back to Anan Bay in the pouring rain.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After a brief orientation from a ranger, we hiked along the
boardwalk trail towards the observation platform. The ranger below radioed the
ranger above and told her we were on our way. When we first arrived at the
creek, there wasn’t much action. That morning, a grizzly with four cubs had
been spotted catching salmon, and that afternoon, a grey wolf had been sighted.
After a short while, a black bear, followed by another, and another, came to
the creek to fish for salmon. Soon, the place was crawling with black bears
(though we never did see a brown bear), catching and feasting on the pink
salmon trying to get upstream to spawn. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2uQCLhDd6d8n87SmUVbD9y5z9mMBpd6J4na0Fh10ax3dwuZ8TlS59z45cHqqpEOIhz3Kbmz8ZqP9kDSom-sOP-mgQA9bGGylFh6tZXaD-sYqXFtj-xjh1KeJT2AB_836csgTq_lHBj0K/s1600/Bears+at+Anan+Creek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2uQCLhDd6d8n87SmUVbD9y5z9mMBpd6J4na0Fh10ax3dwuZ8TlS59z45cHqqpEOIhz3Kbmz8ZqP9kDSom-sOP-mgQA9bGGylFh6tZXaD-sYqXFtj-xjh1KeJT2AB_836csgTq_lHBj0K/s1600/Bears+at+Anan+Creek.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Black bears at Anan Creek</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXzpUe1L2EgSgFhwgZ-l_Jn_BpH-Kd4w7MShlWRqBFkp4QJ6S13H99DYI4KfrQRVQvqzCZj_J4JknaFKEONKiZwnzaZWeGIE7FFKBSAZOIK2ZL3sYNjlYAY75C_OQYGon1ONCtA5Uq73C/s1600/The+old+guy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXzpUe1L2EgSgFhwgZ-l_Jn_BpH-Kd4w7MShlWRqBFkp4QJ6S13H99DYI4KfrQRVQvqzCZj_J4JknaFKEONKiZwnzaZWeGIE7FFKBSAZOIK2ZL3sYNjlYAY75C_OQYGon1ONCtA5Uq73C/s1600/The+old+guy.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An older male bear</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Q5gg5vj69kLEBZwWpq8Y9-PFVvk2xYuXu7D_ooHwmLgKp72Yoi1Th-buc-WYi9EpZ6Guux4SLp51jk-CgIcKQQt9hJe8dfNu4yNit1OzD-neo0rWbH5e55xGW2DlIR0TqjMLrl_OAwx-/s1600/Mama+with+cub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Q5gg5vj69kLEBZwWpq8Y9-PFVvk2xYuXu7D_ooHwmLgKp72Yoi1Th-buc-WYi9EpZ6Guux4SLp51jk-CgIcKQQt9hJe8dfNu4yNit1OzD-neo0rWbH5e55xGW2DlIR0TqjMLrl_OAwx-/s1600/Mama+with+cub.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mama bear with cub</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vCioohY4HFRMoAJY-mnar04ZPImrVx1oXMbTKWyRi7HA0__ZwSjOpZnO36AhqbpQ3w4xXdByjM4oXqKLoWxRbP2pjYOK58tZ3p_5Q_XmguR1ab01bOu54xeYP_ghUDwc7Eknj98fyHjK/s1600/Mama+brings+home+dinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vCioohY4HFRMoAJY-mnar04ZPImrVx1oXMbTKWyRi7HA0__ZwSjOpZnO36AhqbpQ3w4xXdByjM4oXqKLoWxRbP2pjYOK58tZ3p_5Q_XmguR1ab01bOu54xeYP_ghUDwc7Eknj98fyHjK/s1600/Mama+brings+home+dinner.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mama brings home the bacon...er, salmon</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">T</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">he creek was swollen with the heavy rains of the past few
days, and the salmon had an even more difficult job than usual trying to get up
the falls to their spawning grounds. The fish tended to collect in eddies along
the sides of the stream, where they were easy pickings for the black bears.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwJADI5NYXS1dMrzpcC6feYuM5-WdugPExyFzmfkE4mm9Qu9iTSGgOlvjkRrM6bX5cyWvnRzOhl9dR6B-aG_TG7lS6-NHPGFMQ958TPPXd2X3qv2ZodIqVpUqs7oIAFKotpwDEfYgISmU/s1600/Pink+salmon+in+the+eddy+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwJADI5NYXS1dMrzpcC6feYuM5-WdugPExyFzmfkE4mm9Qu9iTSGgOlvjkRrM6bX5cyWvnRzOhl9dR6B-aG_TG7lS6-NHPGFMQ958TPPXd2X3qv2ZodIqVpUqs7oIAFKotpwDEfYgISmU/s1600/Pink+salmon+in+the+eddy+2.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pink salmon in an eddy in the creek</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGohxmZ4etqq38WmskxspjABEE5LCfCm4QPe6eAfmxqgkD3U2QLPHD9emp1vNCPsTkexjYwBRSaD4MCzQ1993JqvucPaZI3aWV4KFc2q9gy7ZdIFRbf3S05Bgn_KZA_2Zq6fDRevKzNOJB/s1600/Pink+salmon+in+the+eddy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGohxmZ4etqq38WmskxspjABEE5LCfCm4QPe6eAfmxqgkD3U2QLPHD9emp1vNCPsTkexjYwBRSaD4MCzQ1993JqvucPaZI3aWV4KFc2q9gy7ZdIFRbf3S05Bgn_KZA_2Zq6fDRevKzNOJB/s1600/Pink+salmon+in+the+eddy.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The backs of salmon in the tannin-filled creek</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMWf3rjyAdyw39gyX8xhBxHsbaf1WmxK1U6blHU2cdSCL5yXFPRpQppXKrzcFOBXXAGyBizUFXLTQxIxlmYiR1XZMLXimV9uEzY_QkS9DStAObHic9Rb22mKTod3lvKtekY7eBxzzL5uv/s1600/Black+bear+and+prey+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMWf3rjyAdyw39gyX8xhBxHsbaf1WmxK1U6blHU2cdSCL5yXFPRpQppXKrzcFOBXXAGyBizUFXLTQxIxlmYiR1XZMLXimV9uEzY_QkS9DStAObHic9Rb22mKTod3lvKtekY7eBxzzL5uv/s1600/Black+bear+and+prey+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A young black bear eyes his prey</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEwh0WCXifHdUvuPrNfh_fxut8NofRRJd3MSNF9dvHMTkQ1Z65jIJhXqalqXz_rsSk7pwcYVY-6SsKG1DGG9eClhlr2HV5suNWY0jKPwcShC_bBrPdzGjBAOg8rhHngBVpBwna5cKgaFd/s1600/Caught.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEwh0WCXifHdUvuPrNfh_fxut8NofRRJd3MSNF9dvHMTkQ1Z65jIJhXqalqXz_rsSk7pwcYVY-6SsKG1DGG9eClhlr2HV5suNWY0jKPwcShC_bBrPdzGjBAOg8rhHngBVpBwna5cKgaFd/s1600/Caught.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A successful catch</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrLJkoPoUtV-JUqI8cDT1vc6j7uoZj1iDKbyz6fvfvtd8iu6GJ-znwB55dshR7i-8vb08NAIo1eAYkuIEOeXAE9aLCn3upOl9s9Iih6qXKvVA9LuBkGWSEY3zu81euylYTzWICQvFlDIK/s1600/Catching+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrLJkoPoUtV-JUqI8cDT1vc6j7uoZj1iDKbyz6fvfvtd8iu6GJ-znwB55dshR7i-8vb08NAIo1eAYkuIEOeXAE9aLCn3upOl9s9Iih6qXKvVA9LuBkGWSEY3zu81euylYTzWICQvFlDIK/s1600/Catching+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another catch on the opposite side of the creek</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was fun watching the bears going fishing. At times, they
had to get into some athletic positions or get a snootful of water in order to
catch a fish.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnO78B7yNO-1E2HAQYPRPsh2DkHYZAUnMV8uMnndvwfL7zVBvvgkmJy0BAC_K-RKMvllKoD6ydfhTtJrNgVOjd_JpmaeTKhzPd34wlIrU41obBzQL6hcvxFlXR4FeFMaMOIP350Hmwiso/s1600/Athletic+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnO78B7yNO-1E2HAQYPRPsh2DkHYZAUnMV8uMnndvwfL7zVBvvgkmJy0BAC_K-RKMvllKoD6ydfhTtJrNgVOjd_JpmaeTKhzPd34wlIrU41obBzQL6hcvxFlXR4FeFMaMOIP350Hmwiso/s1600/Athletic+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">How did I get in this predicament?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBCnIWZqi-Mg7BIGLfyEW1ApaOVDJUiNZYIq9OSGpsCHLr6IFbzxlfqTW6zbo9zYmtUmykdvMImTfcbf84SwGlLTWTqg985bPojkgWSh_xBWKNHHJRjtGmDVkKwt9aDadw_gyonfX72nYl/s1600/Athletics+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBCnIWZqi-Mg7BIGLfyEW1ApaOVDJUiNZYIq9OSGpsCHLr6IFbzxlfqTW6zbo9zYmtUmykdvMImTfcbf84SwGlLTWTqg985bPojkgWSh_xBWKNHHJRjtGmDVkKwt9aDadw_gyonfX72nYl/s1600/Athletics+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A bottom-heavy fisher</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijR81x8LJ7BQolUoU9mZNinhn3QtYtqmNRaWRdBolRSmtaHPnF0DaWuJKsFs4nVRUzdBiBrmY3rs2KUD9iShbzTsqDSQOI9veB3pFBERxELC58Waj8vE6I-EuXJSBgxa-1PRrjBd_EVqpJ/s1600/Athletics+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijR81x8LJ7BQolUoU9mZNinhn3QtYtqmNRaWRdBolRSmtaHPnF0DaWuJKsFs4nVRUzdBiBrmY3rs2KUD9iShbzTsqDSQOI9veB3pFBERxELC58Waj8vE6I-EuXJSBgxa-1PRrjBd_EVqpJ/s1600/Athletics+4.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now that's a stretch!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIa0DbxV7kQGNxvz0KA2imFh20c2VdeR0DRMmtFwX9XESnFs90kEB3xueAXzjaSarBaGKL_ubyEmlgSokEgW7nYETNoNFowYhSMLF4CteevW_9ecxpaz8NMFLCCEvNFXV06GmxQBuROuNv/s1600/Snootful.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIa0DbxV7kQGNxvz0KA2imFh20c2VdeR0DRMmtFwX9XESnFs90kEB3xueAXzjaSarBaGKL_ubyEmlgSokEgW7nYETNoNFowYhSMLF4CteevW_9ecxpaz8NMFLCCEvNFXV06GmxQBuROuNv/s1600/Snootful.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Coming up empty with a snootful of creek water</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was not so much fun watching the bears eat the salmon. I
came away from the experience more impressed with the salmon than with the
bears. My god, those fish are tough! After exhausting themselves for hours
trying to get up the falls to spawn, the salmon still had energy to fight when a bear
was literally biting into their back or head. The drive to survive and reproduce
is a potent one, for certain. As Patrick pointed out, a bear's life is not easy either. Most of the adult male bears were missing patches of fur, and their snouts were covered with battle scars. Another thing that impressed me about the bears was how gentle they were with their prey. They held it clumsily in their paws, they licked it, ---yes, they chewed it---but they did not tear at it viciously as one might imagine, growling all the while. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo22SX0k_FPC7P-OltXVAnSXNZAYvgsqQ5JF8rCoDAsTVmvW87jn1TRba2cIN0de4b2vRDthOJ4rZsSBJKyO4YbNjMD9Ri3u-c6qJojbC113i0AhiclztG1xHW8tGptASQeIpB1-PC9PZY/s1600/Chow+time.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo22SX0k_FPC7P-OltXVAnSXNZAYvgsqQ5JF8rCoDAsTVmvW87jn1TRba2cIN0de4b2vRDthOJ4rZsSBJKyO4YbNjMD9Ri3u-c6qJojbC113i0AhiclztG1xHW8tGptASQeIpB1-PC9PZY/s1600/Chow+time.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A bear starting a salmon feast</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The ranger explained to us that early in the season, the
bears ate the entire fish. However, now that they are fat and well fed, and the
salmon are still plentiful, they “high grade” by eating only selected (the best
and fattiest) parts of the fish. It seems wasteful; however, this ecosystem
supports much more than just bears. Eagles, ravens, and seagulls are all hovering
in the distance, waiting to feed on the spoils from the bears’ activity. What
is left after the birds have fed goes back into the forest, to fertilize and
nurture the cedar and spruce trees, on or under whose branches, all these
creatures live. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSGaS39FNxzaHLSC2OfeBC7_EsiVUz6ImikXydt2SNz0o3mDZaxxxYyuTxXAqqbtwQbJ7Mvcx-18ytnpgXc-gEcJCncr_hXwLm8Ib48y743UI3UGJSvIwfoUu7zrDfmp9lU1sjeQdDd5k/s1600/Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSGaS39FNxzaHLSC2OfeBC7_EsiVUz6ImikXydt2SNz0o3mDZaxxxYyuTxXAqqbtwQbJ7Mvcx-18ytnpgXc-gEcJCncr_hXwLm8Ib48y743UI3UGJSvIwfoUu7zrDfmp9lU1sjeQdDd5k/s1600/Raven.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A raven cleaning up a discarded salmon carcass</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY0jJbYTlOG436tmZmmXF4YT76iVAR-kT-83aZhICwQugp5fQQAdmx1bCCDcQ7k9DfliUtBRYU1OKX3IoC966IQBWfRbcKvoYwuzJIzI1ocFp9hjh6o7UupRoLucuKpeXLApXQxs0fVbA6/s1600/Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY0jJbYTlOG436tmZmmXF4YT76iVAR-kT-83aZhICwQugp5fQQAdmx1bCCDcQ7k9DfliUtBRYU1OKX3IoC966IQBWfRbcKvoYwuzJIzI1ocFp9hjh6o7UupRoLucuKpeXLApXQxs0fVbA6/s1600/Eagle.jpg" height="277" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A golden eagle?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYo5qPfSl3eInCOcgeQCyA3Kd0jrS8e0Gf9_YiEIderlyOm2jpVjUSkm11zdKh46porF5j5FmkVGv0omSPOdYJZlGNlXLSlnDkAn5YXj9SCq2WcBD5yBqTX__Nn4abFIqxK8V57brlhC6l/s1600/On+the+trail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYo5qPfSl3eInCOcgeQCyA3Kd0jrS8e0Gf9_YiEIderlyOm2jpVjUSkm11zdKh46porF5j5FmkVGv0omSPOdYJZlGNlXLSlnDkAn5YXj9SCq2WcBD5yBqTX__Nn4abFIqxK8V57brlhC6l/s1600/On+the+trail.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">On the trail</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We had an unforgettable experience bear watching at Anan
Creek. The next day, we moved down Seward Passage towards Ernest Sound. We made
it about ten miles. The weather continually deteriorated after we got underway,
and we suddenly found ourselves in 24-knot winds with zero visibility and
driving rain. We were in a narrow channel among small islets and fishing boats.
After discussing it, we decided to anchor up instead of continuing on. Sunny
Bay, a bight with suitable anchorage, was near at hand. Once we got anchored,
we listened to an updated weather report:
The forecast for Clarence Strait (which Ernest Sound opens onto) was 30
knots of wind with gusts to 50 in the northern half. We might have handled this
just fine once we got out of Seward Passage into a more open waterway. However,
after five or six days of traveling in the rain, it just wasn’t fun to suddenly
find ourselves in squall conditions. The advantage of coastal cruising is that
you don’t have to go on in those conditions:
You can just stop. And that’s what we chose to do.</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The wind stopped before the rain, and by evening, the rain
had started to clear. The next morning, we entered Ernest Sound in calm
conditions. The Banana Belt was finally starting to live up to its name, as the
sun broke through, and we shed layers of our clothing. We stopped to fish near
a pinnacle where Patrick had successfully caught lingcod and halibut before. We
hooked a large (50-60 lb) halibut and brought it onboard! Normally, we would
have released a fish that big: It was
much more fish than we could use or store without a freezer. However, we were
heading into Thorne Bay on Prince of Wales Island, and we felt certain we could
give some of the fish away.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5v65CIbODqoA35fFiSf5wRZYhqnXHP3qN7M0r4KdrC5c5rSLstLHEpq_qlnoiPbKnGnGVl7OMe3wXWyv1BHqjPhjyLWUYi7cByvbNL9walO8rMiU_HAib75Zj7CiWMO8Tb94aqF0jNOH/s1600/Ernest+Sound+Halibut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5v65CIbODqoA35fFiSf5wRZYhqnXHP3qN7M0r4KdrC5c5rSLstLHEpq_qlnoiPbKnGnGVl7OMe3wXWyv1BHqjPhjyLWUYi7cByvbNL9walO8rMiU_HAib75Zj7CiWMO8Tb94aqF0jNOH/s1600/Ernest+Sound+Halibut.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick gaffed this sizable halibut</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We had decided to go into Thorne Bay on Prince of Wales in
order to avoid the cruise ship crowds at Ketchikan. Overall, it was a good
call. Thorne Bay was an exceedingly friendly, welcoming community, and they had
all the amenities that cruisers need with the exception of a Laundromat. And when
you think about it, putting off doing laundry is not that much of a drawback!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After getting a spot on the dock in Thorne Bay, we lugged
our big halibut up to one of the fish cleaning tables that are common in
Southeast. In exchange for a lesson on how to clean a halibut (we’d no idea how
to approach cleaning such a large fish), we gave a local man half of our fish.
He, in turn, shared it with some charter boat clients who had only caught
salmon that day. Everyone at the table left with a chunk of halibut and was
very happy. We weren’t the only ones giving away fish though---a couple of
liveaboards from Mukilteo (near Seattle), now living in Thorne Bay, brought us
some chum salmon and silverjack, still warm from their smoker! We brought them
some halibut in return. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Under sunny skies and with a larder full of halibut and salmon, we felt twice-blessed. </span></span></div>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-71034318358972015622014-08-09T08:00:00.000-07:002014-08-16T09:18:54.816-07:00Frederick Sound and Petersburg<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>July 20-24, 2014</b></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Following our excursion to Tracy Arm, we sailed on a beat
across Stephens Passage to an anchorage on Admiralty Island, Cannery Cove,
chosen for the likelihood of seeing brown bears. Admiralty Island has the
highest density per square foot of brown bears of any of the islands on which
they live in Southeast. I was disappointed to discover that a huge fishing
lodge had been built in the cove and that it was also full of crab pots. Even
though there was a perfect bear meadow in the scenic anchorage’s head, with all
the human activity around, we didn’t see one grizzly in this anchorage. We did
some salmon and halibut fishing here, but got skunked again; and we didn’t care
about it enough to travel out to the East and West Brother islands, where most
of the locals (and the humpback whales!) seemed to be fishing. The sun came out
during our layover day in Cannery Cove, and we luxuriated in its rare warmth.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiub4LeAAfBVrh1WV8ArpC-ZJfzxg5vpowAT7IuizF9vkNQGzwKIyLq3qXUYgSClihLLbn17Vx1xtyh8OmUkez_lTlZO1FNYtaXFzSA9sPO66L6cqinDk-ME70qvU3dxNRs2bfaORerlUeD/s1600/Cannery+Cove+Admiralty+Is.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiub4LeAAfBVrh1WV8ArpC-ZJfzxg5vpowAT7IuizF9vkNQGzwKIyLq3qXUYgSClihLLbn17Vx1xtyh8OmUkez_lTlZO1FNYtaXFzSA9sPO66L6cqinDk-ME70qvU3dxNRs2bfaORerlUeD/s1600/Cannery+Cove+Admiralty+Is.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Spectacular setting in Cannery Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2GxwqmjHF6Y7up54b1z0YnmJOgJEt7po5caUCyHJvREPTNevPAQeD5g6fGA16bOF4mZDBkJj6oojy02zIjhbJqNHhSlGWVQ2QjWZhwGZ_MQhcpIL0XDoTI8EUDCzEK9_cpMkHdNDuCIs/s1600/Pybus+Bay+Lodge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2GxwqmjHF6Y7up54b1z0YnmJOgJEt7po5caUCyHJvREPTNevPAQeD5g6fGA16bOF4mZDBkJj6oojy02zIjhbJqNHhSlGWVQ2QjWZhwGZ_MQhcpIL0XDoTI8EUDCzEK9_cpMkHdNDuCIs/s1600/Pybus+Bay+Lodge.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pybus Bay Fishing Lodge</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Cannery Cove, we headed for Petersburg via Frederick
Sound. We stopped several times along the way to whale watch, as there were
dozens of humpbacks in Frederick Sound. These were the most active humpbacks we
saw in southeast Alaska---much more so than their cousins up north in Chatham
and Icy Straits---and they put on delightful displays of breaching, flipper-slapping,
and diving in tandem. The whales seemed to be very close together, and you
would often see a pair traveling side-by-side, within touching distance, or
sounding in unison.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3KOOud6jmBRwLm-46vPAhax3m-Qa6e2sEoABur0uAfEwUfjX08KWpGMF4AbAlbFtBu9u0ut45mbMfW-Ru_80MbmpJcPvyQNVPAzHhJMMQQFoG3L-GCvjHU_pZRFK3Fw1mwosZtA4KZer/s1600/Two+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3KOOud6jmBRwLm-46vPAhax3m-Qa6e2sEoABur0uAfEwUfjX08KWpGMF4AbAlbFtBu9u0ut45mbMfW-Ru_80MbmpJcPvyQNVPAzHhJMMQQFoG3L-GCvjHU_pZRFK3Fw1mwosZtA4KZer/s1600/Two+together.jpg" height="290" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Two together</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQ-Zsc7mgcy2KPqupXvM4E5od2s1LfGi4zrJCEWJF_bHZunwfEnzRQZ0yO64Ism6_GIc90IMfT4BC2Uf4axSKpILYFMjLpBqXdgb3VEhkL15tSTXgD2B_wezsyfXDbB8GGtxOPatRYT1l/s1600/Breaching+humpack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQ-Zsc7mgcy2KPqupXvM4E5od2s1LfGi4zrJCEWJF_bHZunwfEnzRQZ0yO64Ism6_GIc90IMfT4BC2Uf4axSKpILYFMjLpBqXdgb3VEhkL15tSTXgD2B_wezsyfXDbB8GGtxOPatRYT1l/s1600/Breaching+humpack.jpg" height="253" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Breaching humpback in Frederick Sound</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTt3UEoxGVjLS_d2qGgYh8lgmHzC5ZyCwhsBkBAaeJW3F8efRWwOcSLB1XGZtvp-Hg6AocCYrx4f2E-uL-X2TNHv85qrgKK4y4mKyzdMBNTf3sbg0WhyzGGPJI4gH9xuIK-tOiN1Zs5axi/s1600/Spyhop+or+feeding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTt3UEoxGVjLS_d2qGgYh8lgmHzC5ZyCwhsBkBAaeJW3F8efRWwOcSLB1XGZtvp-Hg6AocCYrx4f2E-uL-X2TNHv85qrgKK4y4mKyzdMBNTf3sbg0WhyzGGPJI4gH9xuIK-tOiN1Zs5axi/s1600/Spyhop+or+feeding.jpg" height="273" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Spyhop or feeding behavior?</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6IiUpNvJxmRh0aDGowQEcd7mJ5Ayjl3u98sfdpIfdGYUIDxNDR3v668KLQM5fgtaotoWKjS73Qe6Jqi7mC_k4Wa1aWJTp60VphCVSw63w0kGPZsH5AMKibkq9hE-OOIg-IhUN1nZ3pfL/s1600/Two+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6IiUpNvJxmRh0aDGowQEcd7mJ5Ayjl3u98sfdpIfdGYUIDxNDR3v668KLQM5fgtaotoWKjS73Qe6Jqi7mC_k4Wa1aWJTp60VphCVSw63w0kGPZsH5AMKibkq9hE-OOIg-IhUN1nZ3pfL/s1600/Two+2.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sounding</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We later read that these Frederick Sound humpbacks were
likely the same humpbacks we saw in Maui. Scientists have identified
individuals by their markings and tracked the
sightings of the whales in both locations. Apparently, this group of
humpbacks migrates between Hawai’i and southeast Alaska and doesn’t visit
Antarctica. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We didn’t feel like pushing on to Petersburg making it a very
long day, so we stopped for the evening in an anchorage on Kupreanof Island,
Portage Bay. This anchorage makes a convenient stopover point, because it is
not a long way into and out of the anchorage as it is with many anchorages in
southeast Alaska. Another boat joined us in Portage Bay, the intriguing <i>Isatis</i>. This aluminum-hulled yacht
hailing from Noumea, New Caledonia, was clearly set up for high-latitude
cruising. A later web search revealed they had completed the Northwest Passage
from Greenland to Nome, Alaska in 2013. Alas, we never met their crew. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6DeWNFWBQxK8ovAE3FUJ2SjljrPyJ8IIB3WztEde2QL5zdw1nlY-OUJ5aHEvS8WaSLvEMs2KS_U0_Iy1K4H2reS0MolmehV0s2FcgDDJ3GfsclCAY86p95gq_QTMGDxzX8Z8h1rXYJQy/s1600/Portage+Bay+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6DeWNFWBQxK8ovAE3FUJ2SjljrPyJ8IIB3WztEde2QL5zdw1nlY-OUJ5aHEvS8WaSLvEMs2KS_U0_Iy1K4H2reS0MolmehV0s2FcgDDJ3GfsclCAY86p95gq_QTMGDxzX8Z8h1rXYJQy/s1600/Portage+Bay+entrance.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Entrance to Portage Bay off Frederick Sound</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next day, we arrived in Petersburg on a rising tide. After
taking on fuel, we settled into a slip in the South Harbor. Shortly after, a
sailboat without a mast pulled into the slip next to ours. After meeting our
new neighbors on the French-flagged <a href="http://voiliercoccinelle.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Coccinelle</a> (“Ladybug”), we learned they had been dismasted on their passage from Hawai’i
to Sitka, about one month after ours! They obviously encountered rougher
weather during their passage than we did. They were motoring south to Anacortes
to make repairs, trying to see as much as they could along the most direct
route. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Petersburg is a hardworking fishing town in a cheery,
picturesque setting. Located on Mitkof Island, at the junction of Frederick
Sound and Wrangell Narrows, Petersburg is extremely rich in marine resources. Like
Sitka, it reflects two cultural traditions, in this case, Norwegian and
Tlingit. The contributions of the Tlingit to the community are represented by the Eagle and Raven clan poles at the corner of Nordic and Haugen Drives<span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;"></span>. I also
really liked this mural depicting the Tlingit way of life on one of the main
street buildings:</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtHa23dtYU19Nisj8jSx7WLEB9qLhvuOD6UfRvQcJnwjM5eLdosg88GBnJDZlpycWm93yiB2NSpTSvKyOUkNfOGmDgi9DzctpmUCjpj00zt3jFGFz3lRsjDGl-wK5oWDFLhpBc3QEPxFQ/s1600/Tlingit+Way+Mural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtHa23dtYU19Nisj8jSx7WLEB9qLhvuOD6UfRvQcJnwjM5eLdosg88GBnJDZlpycWm93yiB2NSpTSvKyOUkNfOGmDgi9DzctpmUCjpj00zt3jFGFz3lRsjDGl-wK5oWDFLhpBc3QEPxFQ/s1600/Tlingit+Way+Mural.jpg" height="281" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Tlingit Way</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Norwegian culture is also highly evident on the outside of
some of the buildings and window shutters in the form of a decorative painting
style known as <a href="http://www.rosemaling.org/history.htm" target="_blank">Rosemaling</a>. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOoOxjC1R8ALQmU5yRTzAPuxag_Hmor2A1lnrdnkLuXVmvxxZ7BIECwvKDmQlDahJOwhq23Ky1wqow4yVWd_hVcVQLOOwoMEOm1-PQ5JLGAenZyGkQzw1KnnHNIVu4Qh5xCR5oRQaHDzJ/s1600/Home+with+Ramadeling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOoOxjC1R8ALQmU5yRTzAPuxag_Hmor2A1lnrdnkLuXVmvxxZ7BIECwvKDmQlDahJOwhq23Ky1wqow4yVWd_hVcVQLOOwoMEOm1-PQ5JLGAenZyGkQzw1KnnHNIVu4Qh5xCR5oRQaHDzJ/s1600/Home+with+Ramadeling.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Petersburg home on Hammer's Slough</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNwVLdQ8DGCKl4T8vMVohUg__ilFJNd787U6MlX-QGTinG-5silhCDx-yNOHHW8mliZ2jjQFtAJNsLwERs-NNlrbvIwz8-1fFZYuBpKHc388IfXMBNtHi2nryCkKSzDZ865w9ExE_gjnJ/s1600/Sons+of+Norway+Hall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNwVLdQ8DGCKl4T8vMVohUg__ilFJNd787U6MlX-QGTinG-5silhCDx-yNOHHW8mliZ2jjQFtAJNsLwERs-NNlrbvIwz8-1fFZYuBpKHc388IfXMBNtHi2nryCkKSzDZ865w9ExE_gjnJ/s1600/Sons+of+Norway+Hall.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sons of Norway Hall in Petersbrug</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;"></span>Some of the boat designs in Petersburg were from the Norwegian tradition, such as this four-oared boat, or <i>faering</i>, we encountered in South Harbor:</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfP9s1FGUatpw8oYR95_rNCD1pSNtbsZg2JWyJl6OKpo8PtZwqu4AWNg2NEzsGyQ3L4dF-aoqDHcmDOuubet8a6xjO6ukGoxJM84zeL-E5BRhdskvKp0H6GoCEThXrE4ffk3dTqYOgK3q9/s1600/Faering+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfP9s1FGUatpw8oYR95_rNCD1pSNtbsZg2JWyJl6OKpo8PtZwqu4AWNg2NEzsGyQ3L4dF-aoqDHcmDOuubet8a6xjO6ukGoxJM84zeL-E5BRhdskvKp0H6GoCEThXrE4ffk3dTqYOgK3q9/s1600/Faering+3.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The man rowing the faering built this boat; only two of the four oars are in use</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hammers Slough cried out to be photographed:</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRL_bbjeR8s0o5v9MaHXlILjcLdtGQAuOiYb8EAOHcJS4JFz-ONPsgDuLbAwyinuDJNEMZK3lRpaONxU_l-uHmBcDpfuLi1TTN98NXIF51WkYRZO6rC3xfHHpb1Cyb9sBLJXdwdqfJTXs/s1600/Hammers+Slough.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRL_bbjeR8s0o5v9MaHXlILjcLdtGQAuOiYb8EAOHcJS4JFz-ONPsgDuLbAwyinuDJNEMZK3lRpaONxU_l-uHmBcDpfuLi1TTN98NXIF51WkYRZO6rC3xfHHpb1Cyb9sBLJXdwdqfJTXs/s1600/Hammers+Slough.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRGKSWY_ccrAx-YL6Vd6FkuRx_SgoNU_8Rk0OqZk69YuD96n3DnD3N_qWGDR8abDPqbtyJvvqU7e1u4oWzXTgjBs4zPZedw-kfHTKX49496DmBPiu9OK7Z8tWgjwo6V-L4MDtnfVsKWsu/s1600/Skiff+in+Hammers+Slough.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRGKSWY_ccrAx-YL6Vd6FkuRx_SgoNU_8Rk0OqZk69YuD96n3DnD3N_qWGDR8abDPqbtyJvvqU7e1u4oWzXTgjBs4zPZedw-kfHTKX49496DmBPiu9OK7Z8tWgjwo6V-L4MDtnfVsKWsu/s1600/Skiff+in+Hammers+Slough.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRv-a4aZKTETT1u7hb5_pvlWElta84K5nuQFrP-GEYGbsmQy5xvbab050wFvHaj9bKbFayaLvurgisarlpNf9yb0q8_kILrkaGRbVcwXh0Bm1ZcdfGNB07X-DMDv64C8HdR5GOwHyTQDW/s1600/Skiffs+in+Hammers+Slough.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRv-a4aZKTETT1u7hb5_pvlWElta84K5nuQFrP-GEYGbsmQy5xvbab050wFvHaj9bKbFayaLvurgisarlpNf9yb0q8_kILrkaGRbVcwXh0Bm1ZcdfGNB07X-DMDv64C8HdR5GOwHyTQDW/s1600/Skiffs+in+Hammers+Slough.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzE0AW_69Q6aToBwHGqIuhFePtyAUIlmICmGxN9toqgaDYBtzY01E8XX7vdNcQJayAyWFxzXg76uzE-t0drwjADasqqCZRFM7QxN-gFZiWKUe4bi_DfJsJ6ikMhyphenhyphenBjJMGN2QIB9fTeRyH/s1600/Hammers+Slough+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzE0AW_69Q6aToBwHGqIuhFePtyAUIlmICmGxN9toqgaDYBtzY01E8XX7vdNcQJayAyWFxzXg76uzE-t0drwjADasqqCZRFM7QxN-gFZiWKUe4bi_DfJsJ6ikMhyphenhyphenBjJMGN2QIB9fTeRyH/s1600/Hammers+Slough+2.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">And other evidence of Petersburg's fishing culture abounded:</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic1WQQ1TOc0H6eEBtIwk-sxcxTM4Y8qpJN46fgpohwiozVwm2bVJqtjA2YsVDYqR5_wmZG9ImVTt061rvg97zaT4iFQadHB2dgW3ulbh5twfF0sJZeksaY9F-VyPY0sKnydz4Q4lstxbXJ/s1600/Fishermens+Memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic1WQQ1TOc0H6eEBtIwk-sxcxTM4Y8qpJN46fgpohwiozVwm2bVJqtjA2YsVDYqR5_wmZG9ImVTt061rvg97zaT4iFQadHB2dgW3ulbh5twfF0sJZeksaY9F-VyPY0sKnydz4Q4lstxbXJ/s1600/Fishermens+Memorial.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fishermens' Memorial</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAov8a92Xq5wsiex4A9wRU17nLpXZe2eyzEp3UgxdrdUfuH8lwpvogHkP7GnyXeUeMEvEjXo35sjlbtirxSp9nAGD1Ftkg9iAboUXfY0M514eK6lIca34cetqaBrLGRdk4Y5IHzl_URG5D/s1600/Flotsam+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAov8a92Xq5wsiex4A9wRU17nLpXZe2eyzEp3UgxdrdUfuH8lwpvogHkP7GnyXeUeMEvEjXo35sjlbtirxSp9nAGD1Ftkg9iAboUXfY0M514eK6lIca34cetqaBrLGRdk4Y5IHzl_URG5D/s1600/Flotsam+1.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Flotsam tree, Petersburg</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqzLw24s3wwQLu2szz7TAvX8V5p17RKY89CzKleWDaz1n1Umkn3YjITUEbl5ITQvvju0XgUIjrfkncgEVBFycHVEUPXl7KNKjgVhfindPj0OHPWsRRld4UZ40ZP5cu9tjf3PlUhRxcMP4/s1600/Flotsam+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqzLw24s3wwQLu2szz7TAvX8V5p17RKY89CzKleWDaz1n1Umkn3YjITUEbl5ITQvvju0XgUIjrfkncgEVBFycHVEUPXl7KNKjgVhfindPj0OHPWsRRld4UZ40ZP5cu9tjf3PlUhRxcMP4/s1600/Flotsam+2.jpg" height="347" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fishing floats, Petersburg</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One interesting thing we learned about the Tlingit in this
area is that they constructed fish traps similar to the Hawaiians. The
Tlingit’s traps were in the shape of an upside-down heart, with the tip of the
“V” funneling the fish into the trap. At a certain point in time, however, the
Tlingit switched over from using stones (like the Hawaiians) to making wood
traps. Apparently, you can still see some remnants of these traps at Sandy
Beach Park. The anaerobic conditions in the sand have preserved the green
hemlock sprigs the fish traps were made of for hundreds, perhaps up to
two-thousand years. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Petersburg was the kind of town where, on an early morning walk, you could still see wildlife in a semi-urban setting. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOEJqTo2CZBoRIcdPdwhI31Jplkz0jlpLK1PVqcNDZUlorYPi1gJi062Cw3aZIbr_usEYHR7vof30pyptZVag3WOYqRpPRGUW_tVQSNK7HmqnKs8FZk1Vk8twHoh9s8RU0weuJAhOge1J/s1600/Fawn+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOEJqTo2CZBoRIcdPdwhI31Jplkz0jlpLK1PVqcNDZUlorYPi1gJi062Cw3aZIbr_usEYHR7vof30pyptZVag3WOYqRpPRGUW_tVQSNK7HmqnKs8FZk1Vk8twHoh9s8RU0weuJAhOge1J/s1600/Fawn+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A fawn crossing the road</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpIkDV15WaS0vcPr7xj__8PO_5gR83mOISyAthU8RYyDmNbNIpEyJymF6Rp40tYCorZcNoHg0-HC3mN6Zc439vO6Cgs6YYqs0QnbhvvYUYhGWl585kE7tZoa-eVNs1Mq9vdrS9P2INDeB/s1600/Fawn+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpIkDV15WaS0vcPr7xj__8PO_5gR83mOISyAthU8RYyDmNbNIpEyJymF6Rp40tYCorZcNoHg0-HC3mN6Zc439vO6Cgs6YYqs0QnbhvvYUYhGWl585kE7tZoa-eVNs1Mq9vdrS9P2INDeB/s1600/Fawn+2.jpg" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Unfazed fawn grazing</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-GNwNlXnJ3RsOlOFLmRQQl5bxa707e9-3KbxegbGJa-rGBe6MyzyqbVA6ccSJOvh-ga_6jhPd2UDeSJ2-a5lmLGhBvO9gWxHJyFs92gOPsulzXo5qzq7zvB0nWzHYuWgQoy4hL7jSy15/s1600/Wildflower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-GNwNlXnJ3RsOlOFLmRQQl5bxa707e9-3KbxegbGJa-rGBe6MyzyqbVA6ccSJOvh-ga_6jhPd2UDeSJ2-a5lmLGhBvO9gWxHJyFs92gOPsulzXo5qzq7zvB0nWzHYuWgQoy4hL7jSy15/s1600/Wildflower.jpg" height="400" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Southeast Alaskan wildflower</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNZzFEV7rQavjX5EUdNLpnZYHpYvrUMZHMMrcJn0xIykyM_NC-ML2AXnsniG9zyvQfIIIK6W93KtsymIiQzuXdmDio8QcmC-wq2nHKZ7BcIsrpppNBe8EOG8OAcSCsNt2f1Pk136vVIUg/s1600/Muskeg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNZzFEV7rQavjX5EUdNLpnZYHpYvrUMZHMMrcJn0xIykyM_NC-ML2AXnsniG9zyvQfIIIK6W93KtsymIiQzuXdmDio8QcmC-wq2nHKZ7BcIsrpppNBe8EOG8OAcSCsNt2f1Pk136vVIUg/s1600/Muskeg.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Muskeg habitat</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncIczd4Iu4UmZkwI7t5dWvx0wBmwJ_qg1-7IeN12K4DCGUUYZ0SCUo0V6hpzSvGK586ztT0I7v5j5ioWXXoJ7pf1WwEpiCGNdXHw-USZzAfDB_21dvOqESVyWcgSFmykxqel1y9NqlleD/s1600/Roadside+flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncIczd4Iu4UmZkwI7t5dWvx0wBmwJ_qg1-7IeN12K4DCGUUYZ0SCUo0V6hpzSvGK586ztT0I7v5j5ioWXXoJ7pf1WwEpiCGNdXHw-USZzAfDB_21dvOqESVyWcgSFmykxqel1y9NqlleD/s1600/Roadside+flower.jpg" height="400" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Colorful roadside flower</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Petersburg had a welcoming feel. Like many towns, the
wealthiest people lived in lovely houses on the various waterfronts, facing
either Frederick Sound or the Narrows. However, unlike some towns, the people
of Petersburg were willing to share their private property and the view.
Instead of “Private Property,” and “No Trespassing” signs, we saw more than one
scene like this:</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFovgZdDivNBSVWsc5YIP0pd7fMuvbk1ciOih9uj2ntXTsqhnjzyphRHpCOTNwxqyEGx6hDDv_Su1jS41Yaxdp4u7MJI_AD05aq6mpWC566WmPXk3wBkJUmvXkCf7UvGmyUsjVF68kAApE/s1600/Sharing+the+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFovgZdDivNBSVWsc5YIP0pd7fMuvbk1ciOih9uj2ntXTsqhnjzyphRHpCOTNwxqyEGx6hDDv_Su1jS41Yaxdp4u7MJI_AD05aq6mpWC566WmPXk3wBkJUmvXkCf7UvGmyUsjVF68kAApE/s1600/Sharing+the+view.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sharing the view</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> And we did. </span></span></div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-43280548779627506872014-08-05T23:08:00.000-07:002014-08-06T18:11:35.818-07:00Southeast Alaska Place Names<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL89xZr3iK5XJoV0z8QkeJUJO6h-h84wSLj0AcBTHjNVKBzjC5Ez5n0gQKnbeYNmHDgLk1yD9LCF_jh-Pbzje5S5EqDSMlDtX8XuGrXti8yaHyv0gNkHtCuevUD445icqebJgWvo0ydcbf/s1600/CNB+Points.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
Every time I have sailed in Southeast Alaska, hereafter just called SE in this post, I have been intrigued and often amused by the names of places I stumble on along the way. The places I am referring to are not the famous and familiar names like Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, or Mendenhall, but rather the little places that define the thousands of miles of waterways that make up SE. The names of the nooks and crannies, the points, coves, bays and small harbors are what I find most interesting. <br />
<br />
Many of the names on the charts are purely descriptive in nature. They describe the place in a manner that makes it easy to separate it from the many other spots in the vicinity that all too often, tend to look the same when on the water. Names like Flat Point, Sharp Point, Short Point, Cone Point, and Red Bluff Bay all use readily identifiable characteristics to assist the mariner in knowing where he is. Other names may not help identify the place from a distance, but rather, tell one about it nonetheless. Names like Ten Fathom Anchorage, Eight Fathom Bight, Three Entrance Bay, False Bay and False Cove, Rough Passage, Smooth Passage, and No Thoroughfare Bay let us know what to expect. There are no less than six Mud Bays and one Mud Hole on the charts of SE. <br />
<br />
In some cases, mariners who have sailed these waters before us have given names to places that help us make the right choice. False Point Pybus, False Point Retreat, and False Channel Bay come to mind. <br />
<br />
Some names are steeped in history. Murder Cove, Traitors Cove, Poison Cove, Suicide Cove, and Point Retreat all echo events of the past.<br />
<br />
The names of flora and fauna get their fair share of use in SE. <br />
<br />
The trees of SE are here. Cedars, of which there are many in SE and whose scent wafts across the waters on every calm day, have coves, bights, and passes named in their honor. Alders, larch, firs and maples, at least the Maple Leaf, appear in one form or another on SE charts.<br />
<br />
Bears are well represented with coves, bays and harbors of their own. Smaller mammals of SE are here: Badger Bay, Mink Bay, and Fox Island. Porcupines have rocks, creeks, bays, hills and islands named after them. <br />
<br />
Domesticated animals make the cut with Dog Creek and Bay, Cat Creek and Bay and Donkey Bay. Ape Point was a surprise as was Elephants Nose.<br />
<br />
Birds fare well with Falcon Arm, Gull Cove, Hawk Inlet, Woodpecker Cove, Mallard Bay and a variety of places with Eagle in the name.<br />
<br />
Fish are big of course. Every variety of salmon is well represented, as well as a few of the lesser species. Even the Bullhead, an ugly, at least to my eye, prehistoric looking fish that inhabits the rocky shoreline has a cove named after it. Bullhead Cove, by the way, located at the south end of the east arm of Behm Canal, is a nice anchorage in other than SW winds.<br />
<br />
The men and women who pursue the fish aren’t forgotten. Troller Anchorage, Trollers Cove, Fisherman Chuck, there are two Fisherman Coves, and a Fisherman’s Harbor appear on the charts.<br />
<br />
Insects are big. Mosquito Cove, Gnat Cove, Sandfly Bay, Moth Point, and Wasp Cove are here. From personal experience, I can tell you that several of those names should serve as a warning.<br />
<br />
Body parts show up. Short Finger Bay, Sore Finger Cove, Kidney Cove, Elbow Passage and Wart Point are my favorites.<br />
<br />
However, the names that stir my imagination the most are ones that imply ownership or possession. Names like Thom’s Place, Charlie’s Cove, Dick’s Arm, Bob’s Bay (Dall Isl.), Bob’s Place (St. Phillip Isl.), Ford’s Terror, Henry’s Arm and Rod’s Cove all make my mind race. Whether historically correct or not, I always envision tough old pioneers who homesteaded those places and through hard work, perseverance, and perhaps a bit of luck, achieved sufficient success and longevity that the places came to be named after them. It just doesn’t get any better than that.<br />
<br />
What got me thinking about SE place names recently were three points that I came upon while cruising in the upper reach of the east arm of Behm Canal, an area I had not explored in the past. Brow, Nose, and Chin Points caught my eye, and I thought surely must have a story as I spotted them on the chart. Once I zoomed the chart out a little bit, things became clear and I was pleased to see that despite the serious nature of cartographers’ work, they apparently have a good sense of humor.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL89xZr3iK5XJoV0z8QkeJUJO6h-h84wSLj0AcBTHjNVKBzjC5Ez5n0gQKnbeYNmHDgLk1yD9LCF_jh-Pbzje5S5EqDSMlDtX8XuGrXti8yaHyv0gNkHtCuevUD445icqebJgWvo0ydcbf/s1600/CNB+Points.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL89xZr3iK5XJoV0z8QkeJUJO6h-h84wSLj0AcBTHjNVKBzjC5Ez5n0gQKnbeYNmHDgLk1yD9LCF_jh-Pbzje5S5EqDSMlDtX8XuGrXti8yaHyv0gNkHtCuevUD445icqebJgWvo0ydcbf/s1600/CNB+Points.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brow, Nose, and Chin Points, Revillagigedo Island. <br />(US Chart 17422, Hecate Strait to Etolin Island)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
By the way, while not every little bump and hollow has a name, there are three places whose official name is “No Name.” They include two No Name Bays and a No Name Island. <br />
<br />
The next time you are exploring SE Alaska, whether from an arm chair or in person, see what names you discover that stir your imagination.<br />
<br />
<br />
Sail on.<br />
<br />
Patrick<br />
<br />SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-46095351397564935912014-07-31T08:33:00.001-07:002014-08-05T17:59:24.800-07:00Juneau to Tracy Arm and Ice, the Great Carver<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Stephens Passage,
July 15-19, 2014</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our last anchorage before Juneau was in Funter Bay, at the
junction of the Saginaw Channel and Icy Strait. We got to sail across the
Saginaw Channel on a reach, the longest distance we’d sailed since our trip
down to Redbluff Bay. Funter Bay was non-remarkable as an anchorage---and it
probably wouldn’t be a good one in a blow---but as we passed Bare Island in the
entrance to the bay, we saw that the fireweed was in bloom.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcAaJTW2rTXLGch737dEAoEgkUtyax-i3oDXlqyTbLM1BefmFUTXJZguRoByrauT7Iwua6SMI2s4Ik98ESDYti5lNwPlBw6ercegUT0AhyphenhyphenLOweKSmHFra5vuyxMnzg3hOqBggo8dNKcMY/s1600/Fireweed+on+Bare+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcAaJTW2rTXLGch737dEAoEgkUtyax-i3oDXlqyTbLM1BefmFUTXJZguRoByrauT7Iwua6SMI2s4Ik98ESDYti5lNwPlBw6ercegUT0AhyphenhyphenLOweKSmHFra5vuyxMnzg3hOqBggo8dNKcMY/s1600/Fireweed+on+Bare+Island.jpg" height="217" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fireweed blooming on Bare Island</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we rounded the Mansfield Peninsula, the
northern tip of Admiralty Island, and entered Stephens Passage. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHIZUCRwyNanPlwkrE8YYUbOhPvRGvYkuaNydFVRwL3PowQ6FSikrUdXZZS0ZnTVvmU9233paQ5aXxnKCBrRgwxWg6Yod8UFWBitI-XgD1rDetBf7AG6OJPJFQulf2xE0ItwLmbCTfLSG/s1600/Lighthouse+complex+Mansfield+Peninsula+PD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHIZUCRwyNanPlwkrE8YYUbOhPvRGvYkuaNydFVRwL3PowQ6FSikrUdXZZS0ZnTVvmU9233paQ5aXxnKCBrRgwxWg6Yod8UFWBitI-XgD1rDetBf7AG6OJPJFQulf2xE0ItwLmbCTfLSG/s1600/Lighthouse+complex+Mansfield+Peninsula+PD.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lighthouse complex on Mansfield Peninsula</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We passed the Mendenhall Glacier en route to Juneau. As we
approached Gastineau Channel, the channel on which Juneau is located, we began
to see the influence of the glaciers north and south of Juneau on the color of
the water. We saw hues we hadn’t seen since the tropics, only opaque and milky
instead of air-clear.</span></span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7OcC9mnRWl7PzAPEt8xk7rDaA_r38465Dts9RU4D0m9B5Lug3XZnoo0KRKr7YC-awrtKLcrfc5SIUL5ECOBtpZAhWmRQhyrKupDef9ySPex6CzwPI6Ct8iXxlPH54OplfWOZf0QYciP3/s1600/Tropical+hues.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7OcC9mnRWl7PzAPEt8xk7rDaA_r38465Dts9RU4D0m9B5Lug3XZnoo0KRKr7YC-awrtKLcrfc5SIUL5ECOBtpZAhWmRQhyrKupDef9ySPex6CzwPI6Ct8iXxlPH54OplfWOZf0QYciP3/s1600/Tropical+hues.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tropical hues, revisited</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> (As an aside, many of the seaways in southeast Alaska
have an interesting olive-brown color not seen elsewhere, a result of the
tannins from the myriad yellow cedar trees leaching into the surface runoff.) </span></span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFa7cDLs_liNFsI08R4pTqXpebuKtxQ3NVCY_NO8KzCDuqrx8mr6bRtryexrgpYpJF_wxVkiDuVMCKDzmtmAy0_hRou2Ux2bN1yyYVWvLImPyZzlNXoZTmLolVgKECgOtjFw2UZ71myG9L/s1600/Tannins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFa7cDLs_liNFsI08R4pTqXpebuKtxQ3NVCY_NO8KzCDuqrx8mr6bRtryexrgpYpJF_wxVkiDuVMCKDzmtmAy0_hRou2Ux2bN1yyYVWvLImPyZzlNXoZTmLolVgKECgOtjFw2UZ71myG9L/s1600/Tannins.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tannins in the water of Silhouette's bow wave</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Juneau occupies a dramatic setting, at the base of steep
mountains along the Gastineau Channel. </span></span><br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNenlhtnUcGwL8BcqRgk9z_OuzsrIDIKp-Db9U6XfxHPXthEV5NPkK54rVTqnbzC7ogRKZ8KJociVdFDoCJmj5nJIMyehGiOEzjrJkqX_ObAxtsYQx3uHU1ry0tpV_T9Lc39h6MRYfdmrC/s1600/Approaching+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNenlhtnUcGwL8BcqRgk9z_OuzsrIDIKp-Db9U6XfxHPXthEV5NPkK54rVTqnbzC7ogRKZ8KJociVdFDoCJmj5nJIMyehGiOEzjrJkqX_ObAxtsYQx3uHU1ry0tpV_T9Lc39h6MRYfdmrC/s1600/Approaching+Juneau.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Approaching Juneau along the Gastineau Channel</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We had to anchor temporarily in a bay across from the town
of Douglas before we could enter Harris Harbor. The bridge between Douglas and
Juneau only has 51’ clearance at mean high water, and Silhouette’s mast is 50’
tall. We arrived during the full moon, the time of month with the highest and
lowest tides. Patrick decided to wait for the high tide to ebb for a couple of
hours before attempting to enter the harbor. Although we had enough clearance
when we entered, it was still a challenge keeping the boat lined up with the high
point of the bridge, due to current in bridge’s vicinity, and then making an
immediate turn to starboard after clearing the bridge into the entrance of
Harris Harbor. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52foSXXvSRZiaigO1ONGfbTB36D3WPtO4kXGo1oqk9pCGG_Bms5i5NZj30J50pmqOW8e5sQYWR7aKVeIQeiKgpFTN3ZktJFQnzvbMFywhWfj3v0QGJ5QmafxLcFNjdunctRSkoaNyeWxT/s1600/Juneau+Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52foSXXvSRZiaigO1ONGfbTB36D3WPtO4kXGo1oqk9pCGG_Bms5i5NZj30J50pmqOW8e5sQYWR7aKVeIQeiKgpFTN3ZktJFQnzvbMFywhWfj3v0QGJ5QmafxLcFNjdunctRSkoaNyeWxT/s1600/Juneau+Bridge.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Preparing to go under the Juneau-Douglas Bridge</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ1Bg9AD0MCwdElP6iEFb_oFCTiQgKz7VoTEF_A6G2HjXYZ1t8j7wUb8Ohxk9p0j4qt6tqsHaje7BblTu2sUuzIv5OfjLj4Ey_RzEka0N8mHV5e45N3KZhisTLrOZWTJqLNFv7nqPvokP0/s1600/Current+approaching+Juneau+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ1Bg9AD0MCwdElP6iEFb_oFCTiQgKz7VoTEF_A6G2HjXYZ1t8j7wUb8Ohxk9p0j4qt6tqsHaje7BblTu2sUuzIv5OfjLj4Ey_RzEka0N8mHV5e45N3KZhisTLrOZWTJqLNFv7nqPvokP0/s1600/Current+approaching+Juneau+bridge.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Current en route to the bridge</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We didn’t find Harris Harbor---or Juneau itself---particularly
cruiser-friendly from a <i>logistics</i>
standpoint. (The people we met in Juneau were very friendly and welcoming.) We
probably wouldn’t make the long detour up the Gastineau Channel to resupply
there again. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Downtown Juneau has become very much a cruise ship tourist
destination: At any given time, there
are three or four large cruise ships at anchor in the channel. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguDw5LgJdgyWF3nADnwYIOQDxgq_tIkw4g63qWUGZbf50YXiaWkJeQXGwa_WwYPJJqBCPGciJ4dqNj184AIxXX8efraINXNmCucRESSy69qnQblX7ma6PSvM-CYZG00j-u1ghCPC-khDJT/s1600/Stattendam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguDw5LgJdgyWF3nADnwYIOQDxgq_tIkw4g63qWUGZbf50YXiaWkJeQXGwa_WwYPJJqBCPGciJ4dqNj184AIxXX8efraINXNmCucRESSy69qnQblX7ma6PSvM-CYZG00j-u1ghCPC-khDJT/s1600/Stattendam.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This line of cruise ships reminded me more of ocean liners than the other lines</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVLUlFPcubH7Iv7gK42LcPT8TxAXuLgELFTYByoZoeALEC0uvnFLlQYWcQ8Y_OWmvsY1nYbf8abgh7Z0hADDrClmG1d5T-aAcIDYWg5WJRdLD_AqLqdGilrBW12s2kdREYsp7Cr5WWMoi/s1600/Stadendam+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVLUlFPcubH7Iv7gK42LcPT8TxAXuLgELFTYByoZoeALEC0uvnFLlQYWcQ8Y_OWmvsY1nYbf8abgh7Z0hADDrClmG1d5T-aAcIDYWg5WJRdLD_AqLqdGilrBW12s2kdREYsp7Cr5WWMoi/s1600/Stadendam+2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Life boats on the cruise ship Statendam</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some of the
downtown shops specifically catering to the tourist trade probably rival those
on 5<sup>th</sup> Avenue in New York! </span></span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw2jrTyQ6mRwORG5it-rW_FyAQEo4M9fCg9O5GE1guLrgZwPB30PzLqIbXD3otN0_sOFj5b3I-yhdAbchU-SSspwvK091tYesQtQpO0O-PWC-En6D4DQCXYJ9tZO1Ojvub6w_lIf5HgMY/s1600/Cartier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw2jrTyQ6mRwORG5it-rW_FyAQEo4M9fCg9O5GE1guLrgZwPB30PzLqIbXD3otN0_sOFj5b3I-yhdAbchU-SSspwvK091tYesQtQpO0O-PWC-En6D4DQCXYJ9tZO1Ojvub6w_lIf5HgMY/s1600/Cartier.jpg" height="206" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Cartier store in downtown Juneau: Another kind of "ice"</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Seaplanes bringing tourists to and from the glaciers were also constantly to-ing and fro-ing from the port of Juneau. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM1SnfeRrUJV62qq52mKN5kqoQDlAj0gAEESasUVnA16K0tdZI29nIImVEwRmpysFeU-df8Rqy5kgJ84Sa5uicMBikY6S3cVkCho9uWq7kDS9f71DRa5MjWYSMsihCag_FvDRIIL6b4xQ/s1600/Floating+Hangars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM1SnfeRrUJV62qq52mKN5kqoQDlAj0gAEESasUVnA16K0tdZI29nIImVEwRmpysFeU-df8Rqy5kgJ84Sa5uicMBikY6S3cVkCho9uWq7kDS9f71DRa5MjWYSMsihCag_FvDRIIL6b4xQ/s1600/Floating+Hangars.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Empty floating hangars in Juneau: Seaplanes dock on the outer edges</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Since Juneau is Alaska’s capital, it also
has its share of government buildings, including the Governor’s Mansion. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Juneau has a history as a gold mining town. Led to the
source by their Tlingit guide Kowee, Joe Juneau and Richard Harris struck gold
in Gold Creek. While we didn’t visit the “Last Chance Gold Mine Museum,” some
relics from the mining days---such as ore carts and a pulley-operated cage used
to lower miners into the mine shaft and bring them up again---were stationed
around the cruise ship terminal area. Unfortunately, the State Museum was closed
for renovation during our stay. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Towering over Juneau is Mt. Roberts. We didn’t take the
steep, five-mile hike to the top (from which you can either take a tram or walk
down), but that seemed like something worth doing. We did take a nice forest walk
that passed along an old wooden flume, used not for logging, but for hydropower
in Juneau’s past. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Juneau, we continued south along Stephens Passage.We
had such fair weather the day we left Juneau, we didn’t make an intended stop
at Taku Inlet, but carried on down to Tracy Arm. We passed our first icebergs
in the inlet---and had a view of the Sumdum Glacier---on the way to the
anchorage. We anchored in Tracy Arm Cove along with about half a dozen other
boats. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1-4gDq2qXjxpIVaucqdNQHhAXeyBLtdk2i_UXT7qt6-uonghxksfEtFwx8N264W45v0nKRtKRthkfLthqKq1G8WnL9PJEdoWKe7nur3X9wXd_XgKpPOxiWO41q9ijIxSgH1S1zzJuMDH/s1600/Sum+Dum+Glacier+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1-4gDq2qXjxpIVaucqdNQHhAXeyBLtdk2i_UXT7qt6-uonghxksfEtFwx8N264W45v0nKRtKRthkfLthqKq1G8WnL9PJEdoWKe7nur3X9wXd_XgKpPOxiWO41q9ijIxSgH1S1zzJuMDH/s1600/Sum+Dum+Glacier+1.jpg" height="273" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Sumdum Glacier in evening light</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd3FPE53ogm0oIi0CfH8nU341fu_C0zc3eH8R5l_21m_cKsPywFypi_DOt_u6L_6c1KZZ_DDr0RkgJOPitgzUMZExGHPheocy6ITHH76T7hx2b797j3orfhTWqNzUfIaZU7Gb8p2FzfUV1/s1600/Sunset+Tracy+Arm+Cove+PD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd3FPE53ogm0oIi0CfH8nU341fu_C0zc3eH8R5l_21m_cKsPywFypi_DOt_u6L_6c1KZZ_DDr0RkgJOPitgzUMZExGHPheocy6ITHH76T7hx2b797j3orfhTWqNzUfIaZU7Gb8p2FzfUV1/s1600/Sunset+Tracy+Arm+Cove+PD.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Boats at anchor in Tracy Arm Cove</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we were underway at 7:00 a.m. to make the
trip up Tracy Arm to visit the North and South Sawyer Glaciers, a trip that has
proved to be one of the highlights of our Southeast Alaskan cruise thus far. The
gray skies had returned, but at least it wasn’t raining. Tracy Arm shares an
opening with Endicott Arm; that’s why it’s considered and arm; but Tracy Arm is
really a steep-sided fjord. It’s towering granite faces remind one of the
massive rock walls in Yosemite and Zion National Parks, only these granite
walls have been carved out by glaciers. Some of the faces look absolutely
tortured with scars, as if barbed-wire and not ice, had carved out their
features. Other rock faces were worn smooth by the passing glaciers. In this
amphitheater, ice was the artist. In powerful, masterful strokes, the ice
carved out Tracy Arm, and then---ephemerally---just melted away. It’s difficult
to comprehend the powerful force of the ice and its transitory nature at the
same time, but looking at this landscape, it’s impossible not to think about it. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSgVuRtoMKyIH0ttAgX9gFTILT3J0USxsTjHmadZVuayDSx3sRBJXLEaicixGOK5QqKDsYqAFPTbIHZhp4qz58joRFEUXM2v7CBKMm71rhVstFD7Z6UH5REjgfaJ88TL3gzCsqYL5WGhk/s1600/Hanging+glacier+valley+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSgVuRtoMKyIH0ttAgX9gFTILT3J0USxsTjHmadZVuayDSx3sRBJXLEaicixGOK5QqKDsYqAFPTbIHZhp4qz58joRFEUXM2v7CBKMm71rhVstFD7Z6UH5REjgfaJ88TL3gzCsqYL5WGhk/s1600/Hanging+glacier+valley+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A hanging glacier and glacial valley in Tracy Arm</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Just as we arrived at the approach to South Sawyer Glacier,
the miraculous occurred. The sun broke through just enough to highlight the
deep cobalt and turquoise colors in the glacier ice. </span></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfJHxCmPOr60BeK8zi4RjI7KjRZbVWus3xNST2b-jdGBelqNtGBScUs38zO0wRw9Cia1FmAdgCgcbgWUskiDFYFJ2sAW8xgrLUQ3AUPF-EgVkAd-mAgxo4cD9E1mWQm5NvKWvgyDNY-aW/s1600/S+Sawyer+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfJHxCmPOr60BeK8zi4RjI7KjRZbVWus3xNST2b-jdGBelqNtGBScUs38zO0wRw9Cia1FmAdgCgcbgWUskiDFYFJ2sAW8xgrLUQ3AUPF-EgVkAd-mAgxo4cD9E1mWQm5NvKWvgyDNY-aW/s1600/S+Sawyer+2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">South Sawyer Glacier</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8S23fSEwnOvVgaeEIGazZOcC56S7yvgzRG6ai3wIWsyLGvwG5nFbf6d5pBaGa9YsKh9aovCmOT6BopuWUlyAFLxv56pgXLW5I7UNoltxhpFzgtyecI3N_LJpEzkeTm-IUsRpKrtnGSvEi/s1600/Granite+and+ice+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8S23fSEwnOvVgaeEIGazZOcC56S7yvgzRG6ai3wIWsyLGvwG5nFbf6d5pBaGa9YsKh9aovCmOT6BopuWUlyAFLxv56pgXLW5I7UNoltxhpFzgtyecI3N_LJpEzkeTm-IUsRpKrtnGSvEi/s1600/Granite+and+ice+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Granite and ice at South Sawyer Glacier</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You hear the calving glacier before you see it. Cracks, creaks,
and groans in the ice precede actual chunks of the glacier falling off,
creating seawater explosions like miniature mushroom clouds. This process, it
appears, has been linked to giving birth, since the name for it is “calving.” We
saw calving at both the South and North Sawyer Glaciers. The icebergs we saw
all the way up the 25-mile long Tracy Arm, as well as in the anchorage and well
out into Stephens Passage, all originated at one of the two glaciers. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlO9WoY7bAYNC_dnUJUFEbsrzCpjqUWUQWv_BaGa0wDAzGqh0AbckzYY0_PgAJs9KrXJqgYrNgvbHqMlHT7uv_T1CcfDAKxg3RkmCirJJ5TUCG30sXb85YZtg2nJGD4uwc5hqHfeo10dxQ/s1600/Iceberg+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlO9WoY7bAYNC_dnUJUFEbsrzCpjqUWUQWv_BaGa0wDAzGqh0AbckzYY0_PgAJs9KrXJqgYrNgvbHqMlHT7uv_T1CcfDAKxg3RkmCirJJ5TUCG30sXb85YZtg2nJGD4uwc5hqHfeo10dxQ/s1600/Iceberg+10.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We also
saw areas of bare rock at both glaciers which we believe indicate areas where
the glaciers have receded (which is both a natural process and one that has
probably accelerated due to climate change). Passing the entrance channel for
the North Sawyer Glacier en route to the South Sawyer Glacier, we couldn’t even
see the glacier. Patrick remarked that the last time he was there (2004), you
could see the glacier from the main channel.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCP25X3lW1rOXCRQXd9vkkQM6LFJyn9JQ9OC9sKUUe01xxEa6MpSUk-u4uazy7c6iC02xNMRCKFd5w5GfWbbZxECmT_6SUslWrcgvouITXJuDN1DNUKTI0yANVhDluvRJ4g1AfJHuPkDf/s1600/N+Sawyer+Recession.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCP25X3lW1rOXCRQXd9vkkQM6LFJyn9JQ9OC9sKUUe01xxEa6MpSUk-u4uazy7c6iC02xNMRCKFd5w5GfWbbZxECmT_6SUslWrcgvouITXJuDN1DNUKTI0yANVhDluvRJ4g1AfJHuPkDf/s1600/N+Sawyer+Recession.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Approach to North Sawyer Glacier 2014: Glacier not yet visible</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As we were sharing views and <i>oohing</i> and <i>aahing</i> over
the South Sawyer Glacier, the crew of a motor-sailer (<i>LaRose</i>), with whom we had shared the anchorage the previous evening
and the trip up Tracy Arm, offered us a ride in their dinghy to get a picture
of <i>Silhouette</i> in front of the
glacier. <i>LaRose </i>had about five people
aboard and could leave a crew on the boat, while several people went out in the
dinghy. I accompanied them in the dinghy and took this picture:</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSRBNivXfSFgv6OlNXWHf1WB_DX6o6ss8AAK19tD3xJr0blT53WK7JMxJ-1Y-EtX_Zc2ROFuJJp_RnhTCq0eZjphM1dQejFSZGJ5YhYke2y3VVrQlzY2Fe29VfEL6qqJfvoWYo9-Q_JEG/s1600/Silhouette+at+S+Sawyer+Glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSRBNivXfSFgv6OlNXWHf1WB_DX6o6ss8AAK19tD3xJr0blT53WK7JMxJ-1Y-EtX_Zc2ROFuJJp_RnhTCq0eZjphM1dQejFSZGJ5YhYke2y3VVrQlzY2Fe29VfEL6qqJfvoWYo9-Q_JEG/s1600/Silhouette+at+S+Sawyer+Glacier.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick and Silhouette in front of the South Sawyer Glacier</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick shot this photo of me at South Sawyer:</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBq-MnCl_zKm1gCv8W_FcSMuiAwAYPvkfRpbNEFLkCRcRKO_S7wUwULmV068rZ7oR4xB8ybs2_eHyo84pyMBtrkwi-HMQUG14rsd7d-MMI7Z32AqkPVCL7JFEeE7Tsk1zSNvV84Ahl07S/s1600/K+at+S+Sawyer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBq-MnCl_zKm1gCv8W_FcSMuiAwAYPvkfRpbNEFLkCRcRKO_S7wUwULmV068rZ7oR4xB8ybs2_eHyo84pyMBtrkwi-HMQUG14rsd7d-MMI7Z32AqkPVCL7JFEeE7Tsk1zSNvV84Ahl07S/s1600/K+at+S+Sawyer.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kirsten at South Sawyer Glacier</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I had also snapped multiple photos of <i>LaRose</i> during the trip up Tracy Arm and in front of the glacier,
which I promised to send to the boat’s owner when we got to Petersburg.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcvM1prg9Pz8qDE267p5OZsBC_9RQiuQXW4tduMUDNGs4jWekDneMBJh82ukoGddewF9rmVrSdkIgovZNtbqfQdDlWeLUgWJosHz2z0vhfSKBcG7V6wW8g7Yfa2uOAO6cgSzFL3g7Sv01/s1600/Tracy+Arm+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcvM1prg9Pz8qDE267p5OZsBC_9RQiuQXW4tduMUDNGs4jWekDneMBJh82ukoGddewF9rmVrSdkIgovZNtbqfQdDlWeLUgWJosHz2z0vhfSKBcG7V6wW8g7Yfa2uOAO6cgSzFL3g7Sv01/s1600/Tracy+Arm+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Motor-sailer LaRose transiting Tracy Arm</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After seeing the South Sawyer Glacier, we returned to the
entrance channel for the North Sawyer Glacier. I was glad we didn’t pass it by,
because once inside, we began to see our first views of the still-present
glacier. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJmnHWhKUAtBOPMF9u9UlILhRSCl7X98GbC6zMKe-hzRHy8q0bnoisrtJknHY1hVm5gbkqpML2Rz1fHmvFmaPAUBzNYHtvgRhd1NnZVSnZIiULR4B9n0_XssmiKKC6skgbk1Ki1f7aUS_5/s1600/N+Sawyer+Glacier+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJmnHWhKUAtBOPMF9u9UlILhRSCl7X98GbC6zMKe-hzRHy8q0bnoisrtJknHY1hVm5gbkqpML2Rz1fHmvFmaPAUBzNYHtvgRhd1NnZVSnZIiULR4B9n0_XssmiKKC6skgbk1Ki1f7aUS_5/s1600/N+Sawyer+Glacier+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">North Sawyer Glacier</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The channel was also alive with rivulets and waterfalls: trickling, singing, roaring. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnqq4yTpNgL3XsNXE87g-kv_-I63sx9iBUagUrOb7rNaL_vBwJ0tCJSkoUe1c-uEKU1ITn3_f5St25qM8JjrgJ9WnUaEDBINBvIXXKpVH6hKdb6Ao4Q9Vg4hmKIfTRPUVxVhyphenhyphenjSsKnGCx/s1600/Bergie+bit+on+the+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnqq4yTpNgL3XsNXE87g-kv_-I63sx9iBUagUrOb7rNaL_vBwJ0tCJSkoUe1c-uEKU1ITn3_f5St25qM8JjrgJ9WnUaEDBINBvIXXKpVH6hKdb6Ao4Q9Vg4hmKIfTRPUVxVhyphenhyphenjSsKnGCx/s1600/Bergie+bit+on+the+beach.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A "bergie bit" at the base of a waterfall in North Tracy Arm</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFe-giq3LSjA9veHcDr1lTksYKodBML4W1_f-_dpVWohcXc3oTc4MgcJgPq2lk6iPX_qIcV8X-brLjQZZ7TUsPXg7k7Y4c9So15wZK6o4IpA0jsbCQGI4GjNc68eKZZ8vfLt2r18FQtSXN/s1600/More+waterfalls+N+Sawyer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFe-giq3LSjA9veHcDr1lTksYKodBML4W1_f-_dpVWohcXc3oTc4MgcJgPq2lk6iPX_qIcV8X-brLjQZZ7TUsPXg7k7Y4c9So15wZK6o4IpA0jsbCQGI4GjNc68eKZZ8vfLt2r18FQtSXN/s1600/More+waterfalls+N+Sawyer.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Waterfalls near the North Sawyer Glacier</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Ex1Bg_uEkRPnTd04oT5TPzu1_k2dFjTI2k6BUvifgsBHTH-Xri7s35szOeF9cC3jr7KX776Cd7HK7VcYHBtg6hyphenhyphen-4gr__zZGnjqbFgOKR-lcuhDD-P9SebRxobP9m8ASNsgJ-5Y6uB4S/s1600/Waterfall+N+Sawyer+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Ex1Bg_uEkRPnTd04oT5TPzu1_k2dFjTI2k6BUvifgsBHTH-Xri7s35szOeF9cC3jr7KX776Cd7HK7VcYHBtg6hyphenhyphen-4gr__zZGnjqbFgOKR-lcuhDD-P9SebRxobP9m8ASNsgJ-5Y6uB4S/s1600/Waterfall+N+Sawyer+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Another waterfall in North Tracy Arm</span></b></i></td></tr>
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</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was at the
North Sawyer Glacier that we witnessed our most dramatic example of calving. An ice bridge over part of the glacier fell down while we were present!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6-Wmc5-vWkoki0nGsDWAl8dsxHGoYURawIZJH1ED7XVvdgf3g0dx3NYprKl3NmO6_KggZGVi8xCp-FuOs7PMPngA_m6mcnnaGJJf_39DdKePR42yHkBEsvSlFKQ1JD5J8UIkUoHOZbsq/s1600/Ice+arch+feature+NSG.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6-Wmc5-vWkoki0nGsDWAl8dsxHGoYURawIZJH1ED7XVvdgf3g0dx3NYprKl3NmO6_KggZGVi8xCp-FuOs7PMPngA_m6mcnnaGJJf_39DdKePR42yHkBEsvSlFKQ1JD5J8UIkUoHOZbsq/s1600/Ice+arch+feature+NSG.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ice bridge feature in North Sawyer Glacier</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8K54DciLYUhvSOhm9n0w9ExBbsrTTkpVmqVNowPHE5C1Vn2cBt2EVZJCej8QNZ7XfxzJ2_qqG7vKSCuzHd_ha_pEWSQLxY7lrWJQorujyo4N5jxC-a43ovhhr5vc3ikYDJVN5fxXxj0y/s1600/Splinter+calves+off+arch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8K54DciLYUhvSOhm9n0w9ExBbsrTTkpVmqVNowPHE5C1Vn2cBt2EVZJCej8QNZ7XfxzJ2_qqG7vKSCuzHd_ha_pEWSQLxY7lrWJQorujyo4N5jxC-a43ovhhr5vc3ikYDJVN5fxXxj0y/s1600/Splinter+calves+off+arch.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A piece of the ice bridge splinters off</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFi8S5NmbTC4AlR2yAw9Y8o621U4F-5kbX2uWS2uiow7y3DtRjf5eit-wuEL6WCIZxUQNRD9hDDzlQlKvyCEUSUM1g0IWhs3w4zO-kywNK3WemdrHcqc6C3tHlX5zg-FxLAqnA10jIoRA9/s1600/Ice+arch+buckles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFi8S5NmbTC4AlR2yAw9Y8o621U4F-5kbX2uWS2uiow7y3DtRjf5eit-wuEL6WCIZxUQNRD9hDDzlQlKvyCEUSUM1g0IWhs3w4zO-kywNK3WemdrHcqc6C3tHlX5zg-FxLAqnA10jIoRA9/s1600/Ice+arch+buckles.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The ice bridge buckles...</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTmrAIOmzeY9uoJT-har9BCIXbkLQPxF7OuDf-n1SK_4nMhCCR4bqsii-4fOrzUbwIjmnOSiMJrBAQJ5dopVPURb0TO5noh4kNPucx9GpHqRCweulaj14YcJcsKPSgKQyeohl3jV0RFd6/s1600/Kaboom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTmrAIOmzeY9uoJT-har9BCIXbkLQPxF7OuDf-n1SK_4nMhCCR4bqsii-4fOrzUbwIjmnOSiMJrBAQJ5dopVPURb0TO5noh4kNPucx9GpHqRCweulaj14YcJcsKPSgKQyeohl3jV0RFd6/s1600/Kaboom.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">....and calves into the sea...Kaboom!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OGmYM7c8DBzFmmq8eg2kvzhyphenhyphenZhuz_Va3LdByh3e1OOTzPo5KmVHfa7s_IFLuNZVLvB8CzYnvxITcDzA3A6GmhQdESd2m5gKWF1tv4o7ljEjVuBNlVPjFbaJpibl8OQR_1oy6vmtgyTFu/s1600/Continued+calving.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OGmYM7c8DBzFmmq8eg2kvzhyphenhyphenZhuz_Va3LdByh3e1OOTzPo5KmVHfa7s_IFLuNZVLvB8CzYnvxITcDzA3A6GmhQdESd2m5gKWF1tv4o7ljEjVuBNlVPjFbaJpibl8OQR_1oy6vmtgyTFu/s1600/Continued+calving.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Further calving ensues</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXSS3rxOzms0wTksEoBUphs_cUDmdBaGq1GvZjH28GVbehMTGsNG9FkGbeks9oNHkY9r6h006wG0l00x4EBG4Sg9I9XRd21hO4mEFgnr-xj5Kh6FgjeQLXpDUOV3Kr9YLM5asMKEqz-HT/s1600/Skylight+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXSS3rxOzms0wTksEoBUphs_cUDmdBaGq1GvZjH28GVbehMTGsNG9FkGbeks9oNHkY9r6h006wG0l00x4EBG4Sg9I9XRd21hO4mEFgnr-xj5Kh6FgjeQLXpDUOV3Kr9YLM5asMKEqz-HT/s1600/Skylight+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A "skylight" feature is left as daylight pours in through the upper glacier</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We lost the sun before we left the North Sawyer Glacier and made the return trip down the Arm under leaden, slate blue skies. We set
the hook in Tracy Arm Cove at 7:00 p.m.: It had been a twelve-hour day in the presence of ice, the great carver. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-51207583957907843192014-07-24T20:17:00.000-07:002014-07-24T20:19:07.994-07:00East Coasts of Baranof and Chichagof Islands & Icy Strait<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>July 3-14, 2014</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b> </b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After leaving Sitka, we transited Sergius Narrows and the
rest of Peril Strait to arrive on the east coast of Baranof Island on Chatham
Strait. Southern Chatham Strait is, incongruously, more scenic and ice-covered
than northern Chatham Strait, and we enjoyed the snowy peaks and hanging
glaciers en route to Red Bluff Bay. </span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC605yBPoZp9NQLplmquu-rXXRJ6JzvWuqhwfa8gnthn9UrpxS2Njjo40h3Qh3T24Tr5jFQthC0czGuMkpkg6Lhq4RBXtQzhXELgmw-0ZjqtUgY4VbSFdzjfUR2M4rdONbtDJqtt5b1pSe/s1600/Wake+in+Peril+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC605yBPoZp9NQLplmquu-rXXRJ6JzvWuqhwfa8gnthn9UrpxS2Njjo40h3Qh3T24Tr5jFQthC0czGuMkpkg6Lhq4RBXtQzhXELgmw-0ZjqtUgY4VbSFdzjfUR2M4rdONbtDJqtt5b1pSe/s1600/Wake+in+Peril+Strait.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">S-curves in Peril Strait: our wake</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbWv02lXIFfgOjnIID1erlr2XNGF-MFd9A7mPo_oaSiK1eGQIAjoYuJLoJO7k188GphD81pkLD4BfwBGWLt7D2GfI2fFGc4MKUco7LYkB6L1cW14qiwjFSBp1xhN3xenoPJFPxoZzdRh7v/s1600/Hanging+glacier+in+Chatham+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbWv02lXIFfgOjnIID1erlr2XNGF-MFd9A7mPo_oaSiK1eGQIAjoYuJLoJO7k188GphD81pkLD4BfwBGWLt7D2GfI2fFGc4MKUco7LYkB6L1cW14qiwjFSBp1xhN3xenoPJFPxoZzdRh7v/s1600/Hanging+glacier+in+Chatham+Strait.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hanging glacier in southern Chatham Strait</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick has already eloquently described our setting in Red
Bluff Bay, easily our favorite spot on Baranof Island. To his description, I
will only add a few pictures and some of my first impressions. </span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As we entered
the narrow entrance to the bay, protected by a series of small islets, I was
overwhelmed by the vanilla-scent of yellow cedar. Going back deeper and deeper
into the bay was like going back into time primordial.</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79QN6Fd5Kt8yp2dytZm3Z2YASs1B1uCv8MLU7fbnW3SAUIrcIRz0PjkCFWiNpCiwnhWBdP3s4k4dxoK0JM8y-y57XKgkFCKEHP2PqxrNup1-ynuwpLCz2lwJFXhQvtFzIJcVIZvPjfZw7/s1600/Bluff+marking+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79QN6Fd5Kt8yp2dytZm3Z2YASs1B1uCv8MLU7fbnW3SAUIrcIRz0PjkCFWiNpCiwnhWBdP3s4k4dxoK0JM8y-y57XKgkFCKEHP2PqxrNup1-ynuwpLCz2lwJFXhQvtFzIJcVIZvPjfZw7/s1600/Bluff+marking+entrance.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">High peaks and red bluff at the entrance to Red Bluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rjuSMwA76ekKahxELGSuIpXRdp_kr1IDaOZGNIAXg4WR_DUZsydZLj2B8xsEG-mBZN550_DBMBXdMk1ktH6L5byJe_cfzdh9SXgQ1rfDzAquNj1PxKLfQr1E-r7Y91dmf7IvKl8XiC4b/s1600/Dry+Waterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rjuSMwA76ekKahxELGSuIpXRdp_kr1IDaOZGNIAXg4WR_DUZsydZLj2B8xsEG-mBZN550_DBMBXdMk1ktH6L5byJe_cfzdh9SXgQ1rfDzAquNj1PxKLfQr1E-r7Y91dmf7IvKl8XiC4b/s1600/Dry+Waterfall.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dry waterfall inside Red Bluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2fpUBZx-0p5OWnBySpspTRtdzNzYRpg_cKDwcURBGHSOBsY6QxzdBQ7T-WD7FP90dtZnjjFsAP5OgcGcIJiB7NeuqPIzuAq23nUk8dXXfWnueWPjHx0UDw-qnQsf1XM135SVNVSgAI3o/s1600/Cascades+in+Red+Bluff+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2fpUBZx-0p5OWnBySpspTRtdzNzYRpg_cKDwcURBGHSOBsY6QxzdBQ7T-WD7FP90dtZnjjFsAP5OgcGcIJiB7NeuqPIzuAq23nUk8dXXfWnueWPjHx0UDw-qnQsf1XM135SVNVSgAI3o/s1600/Cascades+in+Red+Bluff+Bay.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cascades in Red Bluff Bay</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></span></span><br />
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</span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACOVJvdgGMQauHcT8StTeQGyd2NH5eMvygdJmJlzcDCGUV4Kr0AtWoBOsIQ_S2fvzHtvyVBeqa5sLvCs1N9T7uLvTzBrHXXyryk-_Vk2uKO3MTpghUAsOIVAlddx42HhZzKVNy_0_txdX/s1600/Ode+to+Green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACOVJvdgGMQauHcT8StTeQGyd2NH5eMvygdJmJlzcDCGUV4Kr0AtWoBOsIQ_S2fvzHtvyVBeqa5sLvCs1N9T7uLvTzBrHXXyryk-_Vk2uKO3MTpghUAsOIVAlddx42HhZzKVNy_0_txdX/s1600/Ode+to+Green.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ode to Green: the temperate zone's equivalent of the shades of blue we saw in the tropics</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">For a few blessed days,
we were permitted to live in the midst of wild animals. </span></span>It is a privilege to live alongside wildlife and watch other
creatures go about their daily business. To think that living in the midst of
other animals was once <i>our</i> daily
business: Now, we live with our
pets---domesticated, wonderful companions---several degrees removed from the
wild. Habitat degradation and
destruction have become so prevalent, we really don’t know what it means anymore
to live with wildlife. When you visit Alaska, you are reminded of how we used
to live. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCnJHT0yyb25bm-uv7AqI-uSRvWtSe7OFTJ2N7K7SA9jQagL7HycP1hnMLlsDbXQ4ZMRjJyfOXwh8-7xwKOpNK2I19ziU3jwskhDgSMmBQu6iRCPbO2blXaiDBYiKeH9SAz36Y6l2wZTCa/s1600/Eagle+in+Red+Bluff+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCnJHT0yyb25bm-uv7AqI-uSRvWtSe7OFTJ2N7K7SA9jQagL7HycP1hnMLlsDbXQ4ZMRjJyfOXwh8-7xwKOpNK2I19ziU3jwskhDgSMmBQu6iRCPbO2blXaiDBYiKeH9SAz36Y6l2wZTCa/s1600/Eagle+in+Red+Bluff+Bay.jpg" height="285" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Eagle overlooking Red Bluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ5nirLZFDRw-1NkLh1HT__XfBCHpKyhe7RhrYRCQL_NXNUYYgpYeI8EaJyge1FbC4IEdsCjuIpwv1wftwm0YI1RawrnW7BONGv0eM2QWGxSXHf2i5W-5VqTY3t_bXFEe7sC65tyoYIO7/s1600/Seal+PD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ5nirLZFDRw-1NkLh1HT__XfBCHpKyhe7RhrYRCQL_NXNUYYgpYeI8EaJyge1FbC4IEdsCjuIpwv1wftwm0YI1RawrnW7BONGv0eM2QWGxSXHf2i5W-5VqTY3t_bXFEe7sC65tyoYIO7/s1600/Seal+PD.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Seal in Red Bluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The only drawback to Red Bluff Bay was that even in a
remote, spectacular anchorage such as that, small cruise ships and National
Geographic Eco-Adventure ships did enter. They didn’t anchor overnight, but
they came in to show their clients the magnificient waterfall, sweeping down
one of the granite faces like the grand staircase of a ballroom. They unloaded
a flotilla of inflatables or an infantry of kayaks, just as the brown bears we
had been patiently watching and waiting for all day came out in the bear meadow
for an extended feeding period. In a whirlwind, they left again. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Base of the waterfall in Red Bluff Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After our visit to Red Bluff Bay, we began to work our way
north again. We stopped at Baranof Warm Springs Bay to visit the hot springs.
Although there is a community at Baranof, there are no facilities for cruisers
(other than a public float and public baths) either at Baranof or at Baranof
(fishing) Lodge. The hot springs are located in a scenic setting next to a
waterfall, accessed by a boardwalk trail through somewhat swampy forest. From
the hot springs, you can continue on to Baranof Lake, home to cutthroat trout.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cabins falling downhill in Baranof</span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The hot springs and waterfall at Baranoff</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When I conjure up a term to describe some of the communities
we visited in southeast Alaska, the term is “funky.” Tenakee Springs is quintessential funk. Although I’m told it is no longer a haven for old hippies and
has turned into a retirement community, Tenakee Springs retains some of its
former spirit. The main street is a gravel path through town on which the only
vehicles are ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles, looking like golf carts). People drive
around town on their ATVs as if they were part of an amusement park ride. The
only reason ATVs are required at all is because the town is built along the
waterfront; thus, the road and town are several miles long and not very
deep. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Part of the community at Tenakee Springs</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Post Office at Tenakee Springs</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Landscaping is done with a splash of whimsy: a pink bicycle in a garden bed with a basket
full of flowers, rainboot planters, decorative benches placed here and there
along the walk through town that don’t seem to be public or private property. And the
hot springs in Tenakee take the form of a public bath---where you bathe first
and then soak---with separate hours for men and women. A mural from <i>The Wind in the Willows </i>decorates the
outside wall of the bath house. I regret that I never saw the inside, because I
was at the drippiest stage of a cold when we arrived in Tenakee Springs. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Roadside flowers, Tenakee</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tenakee Inlet is alive with salmon and I hooked two. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our next stop was Hoonah, a Tlingit community on Chichagof
Island that is surprisingly well appointed compared to the other communities we
visited on the east coasts of Baranof and Chichagof. The harbor had both a
Travel lift and a tidal grid, and the grocery store was the best stocked since
Sitka. Unfortunately, we were there over a weekend, so we didn’t get a chance
to visit the carving shed. Cruise ships do go in and out of Hoonah, and they
are thriving on the tourist trade. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tidal grid and transient dock at Hoonah: The angle of the blue cover over the pedestrian ramp indicates the huge tidal fluxes in Alaska</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cemetery on Pitt Island</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In Icy Strait, we whale-watched at Point Adolpholus (in the
company of whale-watching tour boats) and visited Dundas Bay in mist and rain. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Whale spouts and fog, Icy Strait</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We did not visit the boardwalk communities of Elfin Cove and Pelican, nor did
we visit Glacier Bay. We will have to visit them on a future trip. We
realized that we were running short on cruising time, and that we were going to have
to leave some destinations off our itinerary. The best way to save time was to cut out some transits up and back long inlets. Along with Glacier Bay, Lynn Canal and Haines, as well as Endicott Arm, also hit the cutting room floor. We retained planned stops in Tracy Arm and Misty Fiords. In addition to running short on time, we were
tiring of the cold, rainy, and foggy weather that had plagued us since our last
day in Red Bluff Bay. We decided to cut our losses and head south for better
weather. We headed for
Juneau to begin our trip down the Inside Passage in earnest. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-41938700629197114732014-07-18T08:02:00.000-07:002014-07-18T08:02:17.833-07:00Post Passage ThoughtsIt has been a bit over 2-1/2 years since this blog began and this will be my very first post. My, being me, Patrick, the Skipper of S/V Silhouette. While I have on occasion influenced some of the technical details included in our posts, I have left the stories of Silhouette’s travels in Kirsten's capable hands. I have started working on a "Boat" section with the technical details of the outfitting of what was a serious "project boat", the “what works and what doesn't”, the tools and techniques used, etc. Now that Silhouette’s open ocean passages are complete, at least for the moment, that section is in work and some of it will be published in the near future.<br />
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Perhaps it is the startling contrasts that prompt me to take to the keyboard at this juncture. Let me explain. When we made landfall in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand after the 1,300 nautical mile passage south from The Kingdom of Tonga, it was early in the Southern Hemisphere summer. As daylight broke and the spread of islands came into view, we saw them shrouded in swirling mists and reflecting green under the low overcast. We remarked almost in unison, “Wow, this looks just like home. It’s so beautiful.” It was a significant contrast from the heat and humidity of the tropical islands and atolls where we had spent the previous eight months. As we sailed north from New Zealand and wove our way through the Southern and Northern Cooks and then on to Christmas and Fanning atolls in The Republic of Kiribati, there were many contrasts along the way. In mid-May of this year we left the tropical breezes and sandy beaches of Hawaii behind and 2,550 nautical miles and 24 days later made landfall in Sitka, Alaska. Contrasts yet again. It is amazing how just a few short weeks of cruising can change everything.<br />
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At this writing Silhouette is anchored on a narrow shelf of shallow water at the head of Red Bluff Bay, Baranof Island, SE Alaska. The anchor is down in 25 feet of water and the stern is perhaps 50 feet from the shore. Just 75 feet away the bottom plunges to 300 feet deep. In front of Silhouette a broad rock wall rises more than 2,000 feet above the water. That wall, as all the rock walls around the bay, is covered with vegetation in nearly every crack and crevice attesting to the tenacity of Nature. No less than eleven individual waterfalls cascade down its slopes. At the base they feed a broad meadow of grasses that display a dozen shades of green. The meadow is wholly owned and controlled by Brown Bears, also known as Grizzly Bears, the only species of bear present on Baranof Island. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzkdKbJb64lLXhEdgR7KXCNrp9nZhOsbKiTWBMusCrvx-eqvBcYznhL_w45Hc05PGhhaGDZh-Zu_nMwM0sFJl0-jrmD0UExu_bW3ACmQF4fmZiXP_CHOrXkhF-Zd_VuU544xEfctz5Zcy/s1600/bear_2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzkdKbJb64lLXhEdgR7KXCNrp9nZhOsbKiTWBMusCrvx-eqvBcYznhL_w45Hc05PGhhaGDZh-Zu_nMwM0sFJl0-jrmD0UExu_bW3ACmQF4fmZiXP_CHOrXkhF-Zd_VuU544xEfctz5Zcy/s1600/bear_2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Behind the boat, across the narrow channel a few hundred yards away, a cascade twists and turns as it plummets 600 feet down the opposite slope, its tendrils of white water glowing in the evening light against the black rock channel it has carved out for itself over the centuries. Along the shore, otters glide effortlessly in search of their evening repast under the watchful eyes of the half dozen eagles visible in the trees. Mists slide along the cliff faces and at times dip and touch the water, then float and swirl above it. Minutes later they are gone. This is the magic that Southeast Alaska offers, and the setting allows me time to reflect on the long passage from New Zealand to Alaska.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHvjcHVrlrJV3BXu6BMxJ868wgClKiN07BVeHvqB9f-0_Oc-2sHKjmIR-dD97r3ZBRM7Q1sVwLelac1mIyoPbB2Lp_6W-dVHwFscrhU7s66tP1cdNrlWcePojuejnv5C6MfDbrDTLVko4/s1600/otter.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHvjcHVrlrJV3BXu6BMxJ868wgClKiN07BVeHvqB9f-0_Oc-2sHKjmIR-dD97r3ZBRM7Q1sVwLelac1mIyoPbB2Lp_6W-dVHwFscrhU7s66tP1cdNrlWcePojuejnv5C6MfDbrDTLVko4/s1600/otter.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Silhouette sailed a series of passages totaling 8,450 nautical miles from the entrance buoy at Marsden Head, North Island, New Zealand to Sitka. She ranged from 39.5 degrees south to 57 degrees north, more than 96 degrees of latitude. She will likely add two more degrees in the next few weeks as she journeys to the northern edge of Glacier Bay at 59 degrees north. She crossed the International Dateline and Equator twice. She will have more than 22,000 nautical miles under her keel by the time she returns to Seattle later this summer.<br />
<br />
The passage from New Zealand back to the Pacific Northwest is considered to be a formidable one as it is essentially an 8,000 mile beat to weather. Each year numerous boats are simply sold “down under” rather than sailed home. Others are shipped as deck cargo on cargo vessels or via specialized yacht transport ships rather than the crews facing the rigors of such a long upwind passage. In some cases health issues for the crew or family back home, or other issues demanding immediate attention, make those choices mandatory. However, for those who are considering getting the boat home on its own bottom and who do not have such constraints, I highly recommend that you give making the passage yourself serious consideration. In nearly 35 years of sailing it is easily my most satisfying accomplishment. It might be yours as well. In the near future I’ll write about the strategies we used in making the passage, which while challenging, was also safe, enjoyable and far more satisfying from the sailing perspective than the Coconut Milk Run.<br />
<br />
PatrickSV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-43900573086798193692014-07-06T19:07:00.000-07:002014-07-16T09:48:47.515-07:00Sitka: Anchorages North and South<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Blogger's Note: </i></span></span><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I attempted to use the "Schedule" feature of Blogger to schedule this post to appear while we were underway; but I must have done something incorrectly because it was never posted. We are now a bit behind the boat in our posts. Coming up: a post by Patrick!</span></span></i><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>June 14-26, 2014</b></span></span><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></i><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We made two side trips out of Sitka while we were
there: one to explore some of the
anchorages south of Sitka, and one to explore the anchorages to the north.
There are numerous anchorages to choose from, and we just explored a few of
them.</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There is an interesting phenomenon that occurs around
Sitka: The best anchorages are full of
fishing boats. And it’s not because the fishermen are there to utilize those
great hot springs or to watch the amazing wildlife: It’s because those anchorages are in close
proximity to the fishing grounds. So some of the best anchorages in the Sitka
area are not that secluded: But go there
anyway. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">To the south, we visited Herring Bay and Hot Springs Bay.
Herring Bay was our first northwestern anchorage since arriving from Hawai’i,
and we had the place to ourselves (well, if you don’t count the deer, the
eagles, the jellyfish, and the flatfish that is.) We spent two nights relaxing in
this peaceful anchorage. We were there during a small craft warning with 25-30 knot winds and
were very secure. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette in Herring Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We did some fishing en route to our next anchorage, Hot
Springs Bay, and caught a lot of rockfish. We released most of them because
they were too small. We kept one good sized one, which we paired with the
flathead sole that Patrick had caught the previous night for dinner. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hot Springs Bay is probably not as secure as Herring Bay,
but the weather was calm during the one night we spent there. We went to Hot
Springs Bay specifically to visit Goddard Hot Springs, but the anchorage itself
was much prettier than I anticipated: an
unexpected surprise! However, the anchorage is small, and we had company. Two
trollers, one mothership (with two fishing skiffs that arrived later bringing
the charter clients), and two large yachts shared the anchorage with us. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh807n2vtN0F8B2kozLgE-pg_oHcimPGq0YqUJrKqWc2r7wxYDCeqbuM1bWeEhnHa_sf7zcgScuZn3tRpzfYEZsFYzhsCshXyY__3qvjuD07Wz3vuZMG2j_fauVG5UgIt4Ur-bjhPEFyoAQ/s1600/Alki+at+anchor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh807n2vtN0F8B2kozLgE-pg_oHcimPGq0YqUJrKqWc2r7wxYDCeqbuM1bWeEhnHa_sf7zcgScuZn3tRpzfYEZsFYzhsCshXyY__3qvjuD07Wz3vuZMG2j_fauVG5UgIt4Ur-bjhPEFyoAQ/s1600/Alki+at+anchor.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Troller "Alki" at anchor in Hot Springs Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Forest Service maintains two hot spring shelters at
Goddard Hot Springs. In old cruising guides, photos depict wooden hot tubs; but
the hot tubs are now stainless steel with wooden benches surrounding them. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbjfRldTwML3fdPffG57G4b72cGXAW1p1kwO74FcbQSKNzgqeV0k-FiZN24MX6AFMHYlcxSLnSBxF9f-WCP6yKZPZ9t7KmzGbYpLJ12hGsVWfPl1Jfq9hUohYRHzprF7Kqhg5Dv1JVJHB/s1600/Hot+srping+shelters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbjfRldTwML3fdPffG57G4b72cGXAW1p1kwO74FcbQSKNzgqeV0k-FiZN24MX6AFMHYlcxSLnSBxF9f-WCP6yKZPZ9t7KmzGbYpLJ12hGsVWfPl1Jfq9hUohYRHzprF7Kqhg5Dv1JVJHB/s1600/Hot+srping+shelters.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Upper and lower hot spring shelters at Hot Springs Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The hot springs are <i>extremely</i>
hot. We happened to arrive at a bad time, when the water pipe feeding the cold
water spigot to the lower hot spring was broken. When we first attempted to take
a hot tub, the upper hot spring was in use; so we took the lower shelter with
the broken cold water spigot. We had to ease ourselves into the water---but <i>could</i> get into the water---although we weren't able to stay in for very long. Even so, it was a
special moment, looking out on such a scenic vista while soaking in a natural
hot spring.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVxm9SJhM-4qdmfTPlc19cfeOJYKM3x4HbvSTLcJc5GB0LhBjRTjJbfWmAZ0DERDe5qFzAY4H072OKOil6XWdOnyZlcVJxP3MSxUVy-1OEdl1ZKH8_2iXKundX99h5I8Jsai-ULVRCYt9/s1600/Room+with+a+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVxm9SJhM-4qdmfTPlc19cfeOJYKM3x4HbvSTLcJc5GB0LhBjRTjJbfWmAZ0DERDe5qFzAY4H072OKOil6XWdOnyZlcVJxP3MSxUVy-1OEdl1ZKH8_2iXKundX99h5I8Jsai-ULVRCYt9/s1600/Room+with+a+view.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Room with a view: View of the anchorage from lower Goddard hot spring</span></span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8P_3jMIJEg3nqCI7CB4M-L2lwX6ZTsSJ_YrDHLxu21QgXVwlxXyh0OR0r_WB8twvOBrQxHqxIpNu2IEj6FiHvCOb72GX8qooBn6jiATzyFebyH1Yvu7kYrPtg9iJo3pEDq-8B3kfr_lw/s1600/Goddard+Bay+Graffiti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8P_3jMIJEg3nqCI7CB4M-L2lwX6ZTsSJ_YrDHLxu21QgXVwlxXyh0OR0r_WB8twvOBrQxHqxIpNu2IEj6FiHvCOb72GX8qooBn6jiATzyFebyH1Yvu7kYrPtg9iJo3pEDq-8B3kfr_lw/s1600/Goddard+Bay+Graffiti.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hot spring shelter graffiti: "Seen in a dream": The sun rising out of Mt. Edgecumb volcano, attended by a host of seal-kelp creatures (a sailboat and the Southern Cross are also visible)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we attempted to use the upper hot spring. We
stopped by the lower hot tub shelter on our way up, and somehow, the water had
turned stone cold overnight. When Patrick tried to turn on the hot water
spigot, nothing flowed out The upper hot spring was even hotter than the lower
hot spring, being closer to the source. There was no easing yourself into this
one; however, it had a functional cold water spigot, so we set about trying to
cool it off. (The hot tubs also had a drain that you could use to let some of
the hot water out.) </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8CQCwcXj6Q3-IPG58QrtCdlmElLNvv72jEC9iyarGJgnmlCAa3e-6I1JUXD0PCP8MMXTWh9j7QYSyP8husK3G50900P5Xb3oFKuBZyz4AdYZdXoYSnaaug4Wh8dsgtKXlybBnQ8Lq8bA/s1600/Fireplace+ruin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8CQCwcXj6Q3-IPG58QrtCdlmElLNvv72jEC9iyarGJgnmlCAa3e-6I1JUXD0PCP8MMXTWh9j7QYSyP8husK3G50900P5Xb3oFKuBZyz4AdYZdXoYSnaaug4Wh8dsgtKXlybBnQ8Lq8bA/s1600/Fireplace+ruin.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fireplace ruin near the upper Goddard hot spring</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick wasn’t planning on tubbing, and while we were cooling
off the tub, a single-handed sailor showed up intent on a soak in the hot springs. We
gave him the newly cooled tub and went back to the boat, but not before having
a nice exchange with him about sailing and Sitka in the early morning sun.</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After returning to Sitka to take care of some business, we
headed out again on a foray to some of the anchorages to the north. We did some
fishing on the way and caught our first salmon, which provided two scrumptious
dinners at anchor. We first stopped in DeGroff Bay on Krestof Island, adjacent to
Krestof Sound. The Douglass (Don and Reanne Hemingway-Douglass) cruising guide
had indicated this as a secluded anchorage with lots of wildlife. It was
secluded: We were the only boat anchored
there. However, there were a lot of crab pot floats in the bay, and early the
next morning, a skiff came in to pull some of the pots. We only stayed one
night, but the bay didn’t reveal what I would call “lots” of wildlife. We did
see deer and one seal. Patrick also hooked a starry flounder, which freed
itself from the hook while we were trying to decide whether or not to keep it. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzUXhTizNQOvMvLxjWP0cNwnJMY6343BBqHYdlsdCklR11opNGIKYh81l8uTGYhrDmJQEg32QPZ1TS5UCd33AcCwYA826gPBGsU8jofyRrNclX5xy8YesEeYHehvybt7BIC5v3ed7NiO5/s1600/DeGroff+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzUXhTizNQOvMvLxjWP0cNwnJMY6343BBqHYdlsdCklR11opNGIKYh81l8uTGYhrDmJQEg32QPZ1TS5UCd33AcCwYA826gPBGsU8jofyRrNclX5xy8YesEeYHehvybt7BIC5v3ed7NiO5/s1600/DeGroff+2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Golden rockweed exposed at low tide gives SE Alaskan anchorages an autumnal feel, even in summer</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRD15ozGssQE1hlYwbFbW-59x-cjYEQHEadtQ4wuTdodrQM7KGsUcyNv2RqkXQ7Ov9qUj9J5rijL9C7N5fPOM_tc3htIRwIsSqobhJ7sSexeJwMoHuTqqTAqqeDX6CUp5S0Kto__t4sYb4/s1600/DeGroff+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRD15ozGssQE1hlYwbFbW-59x-cjYEQHEadtQ4wuTdodrQM7KGsUcyNv2RqkXQ7Ov9qUj9J5rijL9C7N5fPOM_tc3htIRwIsSqobhJ7sSexeJwMoHuTqqTAqqeDX6CUp5S0Kto__t4sYb4/s1600/DeGroff+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The entrance to DeGroff Bay, shrouded in clouds</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbryGQOkkOsTUqafpBvpUmyegXsp3y-snG1syvsA19ZBnQ9meCZehBmv_jbZZ6X7No7Jp_cUhJu2nNZjg_woX-rYEltMem4o8eM6U9StFfTWuPn3J-ecHVoA8JNo4kdHdFL278NO01UaV/s1600/Patrick+relaxing+at+anchor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbryGQOkkOsTUqafpBvpUmyegXsp3y-snG1syvsA19ZBnQ9meCZehBmv_jbZZ6X7No7Jp_cUhJu2nNZjg_woX-rYEltMem4o8eM6U9StFfTWuPn3J-ecHVoA8JNo4kdHdFL278NO01UaV/s1600/Patrick+relaxing+at+anchor.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick looking happy and relaxed</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next day we continued up to Salisbury Sound. Our
intention was to anchor in Kalinin Bay, and this we did. Again, the bay was
occupied by several other fishing boats and small motherships with clients. However,
it was a huge bay; there was plenty of room; and the scenery and wildlife were
phenomenal.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtPPwh8HqYawCt3dqMJd33sKiEEdABj2l8w2Oczo71OgAqi30bG2nb9cE6j0jlCYoEvQheeGjSNpRLef1mJp22IR1PiF8OZxS1JZBZmIz2Dm5ZZvGIIy5RoO4T21rLzTlNQOiX7hfnCqQ/s1600/Morning+over+Kalinin+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtPPwh8HqYawCt3dqMJd33sKiEEdABj2l8w2Oczo71OgAqi30bG2nb9cE6j0jlCYoEvQheeGjSNpRLef1mJp22IR1PiF8OZxS1JZBZmIz2Dm5ZZvGIIy5RoO4T21rLzTlNQOiX7hfnCqQ/s1600/Morning+over+Kalinin+Bay.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Morning mist in Kalinin Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Due to all the rain, cascades of water ran down the granite cliffs
under the screen of green trees. There were several creeks feeding the bay,
one, surrounded by a large meadow at the head of the bay. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-BhIEuhvgMbB8MsDV2rbFNnBNcvmFLZUFmgBCBcBilbYV8g5_SytAwwKSaFsp9R8lXksvake8su1lTZylgQOEhAlwehI4v41jEwZSR59M_FG1Bko15Wmqr-U_9jMFPABNMjuQ2uijilB/s1600/Kalinin+Bay+Cascades.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-BhIEuhvgMbB8MsDV2rbFNnBNcvmFLZUFmgBCBcBilbYV8g5_SytAwwKSaFsp9R8lXksvake8su1lTZylgQOEhAlwehI4v41jEwZSR59M_FG1Bko15Wmqr-U_9jMFPABNMjuQ2uijilB/s1600/Kalinin+Bay+Cascades.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kalinin Bay cascades</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At Kalinin Bay, we did see a lot of wildlife, including
grizzly bears! The bay must be full of shellfish, because we saw a lot of
sea otters in the bay. We also saw deer, eagles, and ravens. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxiZYOuwHl4kWg8_mTIMmRflAH1AeHsRSNcnu9yuDJpXeNC9MNS32ULFG6vHF54LipR3DY6Xqg6KDdKnNyw3QQtbKIzYRIydNdHk-6kKFWIQwJWKWWCfMAVJKH0STdROUCp9Ylvw282Akf/s1600/Sea+otter+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxiZYOuwHl4kWg8_mTIMmRflAH1AeHsRSNcnu9yuDJpXeNC9MNS32ULFG6vHF54LipR3DY6Xqg6KDdKnNyw3QQtbKIzYRIydNdHk-6kKFWIQwJWKWWCfMAVJKH0STdROUCp9Ylvw282Akf/s1600/Sea+otter+1.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A sea otter in Salisbury Sound</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2nx1WXL2VXXLv0R0bfK6cdIRQV22zyXa-NXSJYoNvQx6mM5sPsCnukEDl6HlJdjMBir_Aayh_WcO6riUgpG4yslXqKAQsxWFTYLyJbS2XgQNy5_iuoejqSb08t5YeXiH6NTqR_GDW4xOW/s1600/Sea+otter+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2nx1WXL2VXXLv0R0bfK6cdIRQV22zyXa-NXSJYoNvQx6mM5sPsCnukEDl6HlJdjMBir_Aayh_WcO6riUgpG4yslXqKAQsxWFTYLyJbS2XgQNy5_iuoejqSb08t5YeXiH6NTqR_GDW4xOW/s1600/Sea+otter+2.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"We don't need no stinkin' oilskins!" See how the water just rushes over the sea otter's coat</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cZaA7B1UDS8g-srTQhXPlAHfS2u7mSLlMhcYAtG114vXWKJzt69z-UC72lV_VXfQho2QxvQzpm7rlRLfT67PaaunfFJOc_CfSmRU62yhF-_4WSQG62opD_f6m26UPHvTYCyRHtjWM482/s1600/Deer+at+low+tide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cZaA7B1UDS8g-srTQhXPlAHfS2u7mSLlMhcYAtG114vXWKJzt69z-UC72lV_VXfQho2QxvQzpm7rlRLfT67PaaunfFJOc_CfSmRU62yhF-_4WSQG62opD_f6m26UPHvTYCyRHtjWM482/s1600/Deer+at+low+tide.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A pair of deer headed for the beach at low tide</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTK09F4ySnpvAxAIbhmaKA9bVF4d9mOrJ8CsyCi0U1TqDuMXOfXaVBu8-1fJWwbEFaTXqYtwpxUESD0J4u4RByACyWzadbxkhfyXrk8jGhEbD2f975KijFYd1BCvzSOBAIP5QzQgofyHZ/s1600/Deer+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTK09F4ySnpvAxAIbhmaKA9bVF4d9mOrJ8CsyCi0U1TqDuMXOfXaVBu8-1fJWwbEFaTXqYtwpxUESD0J4u4RByACyWzadbxkhfyXrk8jGhEbD2f975KijFYd1BCvzSOBAIP5QzQgofyHZ/s1600/Deer+3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One deer notices us watching her and tries to decide if we're a threat </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After anchoring, we took the dinghy on a reconnaissance of
the bay. Regrettably, we didn’t bring our cameras. We tried to take the dinghy
up the creek at the head of the bay, but it was too shallow (at either high or
low tide.) I stood up in the dinghy to get a view of the meadow beyond the
creek mouth, and there I saw the unmistakable golden-brown form of a grizzly
bear! After watching that bear for awhile, we continued along the shoreline.
Patrick spotted the next grizzly bear, a young, solitary, chocolate-brown bear
that we presumed to be a male. We watched him from the dinghy for quite awhile,
as he leisurely made his way halfway around the bay, strolling along the
shoreline and stopping to munch on tufts of grass here and there. We were too
mesmerized by his powerful form, muscles rippling under strands of fur waving
like prairie grass in the wind, to go back to the boat for our cameras. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">That evening, the young male appeared on the beach near our
vessel. The crew of another boat motored over in their dinghy for a closer look
and to take photographs, so we stayed on board. We wanted the other crew to have their moment, and we also did not want the bear to feel too harassed. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next morning, we took the dinghy out again and saw a
pair of deer along the shoreline. We could not get a good look up the meadow
from the creek because the tide was too low, so we moved to a different viewing
spot along the shoreline. I stood up in the dinghy to photograph the brown bear
we had been observing the previous day, even though I knew she would only
appear as a speck in the photo. When I got back to the boat and cropped (and
enlarged) the photo, I was glad that I had taken some pictures. It’s always
amazing to discover how much better the camera sees than the eye. Mama Bear had
three cubs hidden in the grass! We never would have known it if I hadn't taken those pictures: It was probably a good thing we couldn’t get
our dinghy up the creek.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lGhb8rEH62Z6BRKggFjkpoa_AuPhqzrJkV9dRAvBB4sl1VlrFjuOSDDhgy2h-fwbNFeW_5r9Lq00hyphenhyphenrMe0d4oav3zEYJypLmV4G5uXgZaBLHLF1LZDmA2ftjX4F5_A4ia7F8pPe_S9Tv/s1600/Mama+Griz+with+cubs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lGhb8rEH62Z6BRKggFjkpoa_AuPhqzrJkV9dRAvBB4sl1VlrFjuOSDDhgy2h-fwbNFeW_5r9Lq00hyphenhyphenrMe0d4oav3zEYJypLmV4G5uXgZaBLHLF1LZDmA2ftjX4F5_A4ia7F8pPe_S9Tv/s1600/Mama+Griz+with+cubs.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mama Bear with cubs</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">That afternoon, we photographed another large grizzly bear.
We weren’t sure if it was the sow we had been watching for two days or a
different bear. This bear seemed lighter in color and didn’t have any cubs with
her. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3g72VeU873iyt7SypUVzvOS3R3REMmIvCQDfS0ssA0PaBCl-v053bJwC-R_jwS5RvDPCsGajEQ2jqqpS6qdNvE-9-y5BDtCH9ZJNx5HZwkf0DDp2IRWgOiUWIJ1DK2nunPPkeWwuqJiXD/s1600/Grizzly+Bear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3g72VeU873iyt7SypUVzvOS3R3REMmIvCQDfS0ssA0PaBCl-v053bJwC-R_jwS5RvDPCsGajEQ2jqqpS6qdNvE-9-y5BDtCH9ZJNx5HZwkf0DDp2IRWgOiUWIJ1DK2nunPPkeWwuqJiXD/s1600/Grizzly+Bear.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Brown bear in Kalinin Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Although we looked in vain for “Youngblood” (my nickname for
the young, presumably male bear), we didn’t see him on the second day at
Kalinin Bay. On our third morning in the
bay, Youngblood was up circumnavigating the shoreline again. I spotted him near
a large creek which---at some point in the year---will probably contain a
salmon run. By the time Patrick and I got into the dinghy with our rain gear
and cameras, however; the bear had ducked under the trees and was deep into the
forest. Although we waited a long time, he never reappeared. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We never got a picture of that magnificient beast, but he
will live forever in our memories. And that is how it should be. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our last anchorage on the way back to Sitka was an unnamed cove in the Magoun Islands. The anchorage only had swinging room for one boat. What
I remember most about the anchorage are the bird calls you could hear from the
boat: eagles, variegated thrush, and
others unknown to me. At the head of the bay, there were also abundant
shellfish---clams and mussels---as well as crab, flatfish, and rockfish. We
didn’t know whether or not it was safe to harvest the shellfish at that time of
year, so we let them be.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We didn’t go as far north as we originally intended (Double
Cove near Klag Bay) because the weather was cold, wet, and miserable; however,
we returned to Sitka feeling very content with our exploration to the north. </span></span></div>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-85060417625446687802014-06-30T21:21:00.000-07:002014-07-23T19:52:54.169-07:00Sitka: A Rich Landscape of Natural and Cultural History<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From the open sea, you can see Sitka when you are still a
long way off. Although it is both a city and a borough in Alaska, to the eye,
Sitka appears unpretentiously as a large Alaskan fishing village sandwiched
between spectacular mountains and the sea. As you approach, you have to
navigate through a series of islets and an island (Japonski Island) that
protect the inner harbor. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqLRRwVNzzVdYybo9PlOCxMqE6uSgdapDh5X3Hl6CoIATdPyRh2Z4GKcePTURX1vlREGitBjOLfpV0Qnn5VgVkfswvuMrQi1JvPItdPzO2_YzZihV7gOKFcBc7zYLZMgoW_x73ljC4T45/s1600/Leaving+Sitka.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqLRRwVNzzVdYybo9PlOCxMqE6uSgdapDh5X3Hl6CoIATdPyRh2Z4GKcePTURX1vlREGitBjOLfpV0Qnn5VgVkfswvuMrQi1JvPItdPzO2_YzZihV7gOKFcBc7zYLZMgoW_x73ljC4T45/s1600/Leaving+Sitka.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A view of part of Sitka with some islets and the Channel Rock breakwater in the foreground</span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">During our approach, we were temporarily confused, and
mistakenly headed the boat towards an entrance in the breakwater that would
have been too shallow for our draft. Patrick realized something was wrong, and
redirected our course to an entrance in the breakwater further east. Once
inside the harbor, we realized that the breakwater entrance shown on our chart
(that we thought we had been heading to) had been filled in and no longer existed.
While we were in Sitka, they also started filling in the entrance we almost
went through by mistake. Sailors should be aware that even the most up-to-date charts may show an
incorrect configuration for the Channel Rock Breakwater. We updated our electronic charts from NOAA (National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration) before leaving Hawai'i; but upon our arrival in Sitka, we found there was a discrepancy between reality and the chart. Patrick has since notified NOAA that the breakwater is being modified. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWIMVNHcXuaY_1gd0sDRoZswTlh1lN6sAiIKYnU3spbibUNukabsml6QV0KJTDk5T0pnjpd8NwtOJAZcplZT43SgYC10r8aUsZktNfQMjHH46CH5fa9qzj4UcinBuIb8r4qezL6DlBmh0/s1600/Mt+Edgecumb+and+Channel+Rock+Breakwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWIMVNHcXuaY_1gd0sDRoZswTlh1lN6sAiIKYnU3spbibUNukabsml6QV0KJTDk5T0pnjpd8NwtOJAZcplZT43SgYC10r8aUsZktNfQMjHH46CH5fa9qzj4UcinBuIb8r4qezL6DlBmh0/s1600/Mt+Edgecumb+and+Channel+Rock+Breakwater.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mt. Edgecumb volcano as seen from inside the Channel Rock Breakwater: You can see one of the platforms from the old entrance lights where the entrance has been filled (approximately center, top of breakwater) </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sitka has five harbors, and transient vessels are typically
moored at Eliason Harbor, which is right alongside Thomsen Harbor.
Plenty of fishing boats utilize Eliason/Thomsen Harbors as well, so there is always
something interesting to watch between the activity on the docks and vessels
coming and going from the fishing grounds. When the docks are full, it is also
possible to anchor out in the Western Anchorage. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizOOFpJ2wT6wq_ybfqRB0-qj8G7DwUb_20jRKXF466MK-WQf4sDcux44vy_Ea3-C1alMnWjkbqG2rN042irpWpEoHx3VJ6WIoP8UR8OMZmMwmB_WQ3R_NTc-N4VvdWIci36qNWEm70M573/s1600/Eliason+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizOOFpJ2wT6wq_ybfqRB0-qj8G7DwUb_20jRKXF466MK-WQf4sDcux44vy_Ea3-C1alMnWjkbqG2rN042irpWpEoHx3VJ6WIoP8UR8OMZmMwmB_WQ3R_NTc-N4VvdWIci36qNWEm70M573/s1600/Eliason+Harbor.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A view of the harbor</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I did some hiking around Sitka, and its rainforest reminded
me a lot of being home in the Cascade or Olympic Mountains. However, it was
also different due to the differences in the forest canopy and understory.
Sitka spruce and yellow cedar, rather than Douglas fir and western red cedar, are
the primary tree species, and the understory is composed of Devil’s club and
ferns. Overall, the Sitka forest is much wetter than the Cascades and most of the Olympics. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTgCdEiF23aOhofItdh0BVfcukiST9Gi4a2CxaM53Oka-KX9Kqb8JwNH5R9Mv7fbl_MN12GLPi4qpD2_AtgD_kPfIi3e4wUl5ZjIAT31jbRQOuNRPyEu1JlYP8erPQSoOyF6o40fm4H7r/s1600/Sitka+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTgCdEiF23aOhofItdh0BVfcukiST9Gi4a2CxaM53Oka-KX9Kqb8JwNH5R9Mv7fbl_MN12GLPi4qpD2_AtgD_kPfIi3e4wUl5ZjIAT31jbRQOuNRPyEu1JlYP8erPQSoOyF6o40fm4H7r/s1600/Sitka+forest.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Sitka forest waterfall with surrounded by yellow cedar, Sitka spruce, and Devil's club</b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sitka is a vibrant community with a lot of community
activities and a very active arts scene. The Sitka Summer Music Festival was
going on when we arrived in Sitka. It is an annual event focusing on classical
music, and the festival’s board recruits talent from all over the country and
the world. We/I attended two free concerts that were part of the music festival
while in Sitka. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The <a href="http://www.catalystquartet.com/" target="_blank">Catalyst Quartet</a> plays an original arrangement of Bach's Goldberg Variations for strings</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sitka has a rich cultural history. In another story of
usurpation of native lands, the Russians took Sitka from the Tlingit people of
Alaska. The story has a somewhat different twist, in that the Russians
originally negotiated with the Tlingit to set up a fur trading base here; so at
first they were here by agreement if not invitation. (This was after Russian
over-harvesting of sea otters for their pelts in both the Aleutian islands and
Kodiak Island.) The Russians had their eyes on Castle Hill, but accepted a
different base indicated to them by the Tlingit. After living alongside one
another, the Tlingit grew to resent the Russians, and a faction of Tlingits
attacked the Russians. This led to a large scale retaliation by the Russians,
aided by some Aleuts who had become loyal to them. In the Battle of 1804, the
Russians captured Castle Hill and the rest of Sitka (which was called “New
Archangel” at the time), and the Tlingit fled to the outer islands. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Later, the Tlingit suffered another loss when the U.S.
purchased Alaska from Russia and Alaska was annexed to the United States. Now
it was the United States who were exploiting the rich mineral, timber, and
fishing resources that originally belonged to the Tlingit (and other Alaskan
native peoples.) During the Gold Rush, people not only came to Alaska from the Lower 48 to pan for gold and to hunt animals for their furs, but to seek out a life of adventure. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3bWmqJW1BMm6cRkvcoUDltJRAHXE5-RQTOIa6JsJT_0g7J_E-BBrBnS5VIn1oRnEEzRsqBLAiD8XKvrLvZ-GuE1i9wJI7Zfpc0In58e3PWRzkgN-RH5jRE83VqNUtG-MT-hkPenLT8jJF/s1600/The+Pioneer+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3bWmqJW1BMm6cRkvcoUDltJRAHXE5-RQTOIa6JsJT_0g7J_E-BBrBnS5VIn1oRnEEzRsqBLAiD8XKvrLvZ-GuE1i9wJI7Zfpc0In58e3PWRzkgN-RH5jRE83VqNUtG-MT-hkPenLT8jJF/s1600/The+Pioneer+2.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"The Pioneer"</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Today, Sitka has a rich cultural heritage acknowledging the
traditions of both the Tlingit and the Russians. Most of the Russian historical
structures have been rebuilt. The most striking of these, St. Michael the Archangel's Russian Orthodox Church, stands in the center of town. Originally
built between 1844-1848, it was a victim of fire and was completely reconstructed in 1966. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The reconstructed St. Michael's Russian Orthodox church: Many of the religious icons in the original were saved from the fire</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We went
looking for the Russian cemetery in which the grave markers had been
constructed of ship’s ballast, and only found two remaining crosses marking the
graves. The crosses appeared to be made of iron, and are probably some of
the oldest artifacts remaining from the Russian period. The rest of the
cemetery may have been swallowed by the nearby forest. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgQUt1LxfRNdhzne7Taxku_DhuSL_CD4iqWPTSFdyiXxnbvp0SzQewrm9q1LkOB5TLRktt0NNkdkJXMMijCylY1mKJjvreGZGtxjk7HH4M3UXvAz52Lw6ZYz75K14nJZ8pD3iVxFC1IwD/s1600/Ballast+grave+marker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgQUt1LxfRNdhzne7Taxku_DhuSL_CD4iqWPTSFdyiXxnbvp0SzQewrm9q1LkOB5TLRktt0NNkdkJXMMijCylY1mKJjvreGZGtxjk7HH4M3UXvAz52Lw6ZYz75K14nJZ8pD3iVxFC1IwD/s1600/Ballast+grave+marker.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the Sitka National Historical Park, we found many
examples of totem poles, both old and new. (Some of the poles in the park were
reproductions of older poles, which were on exhibit in a more protected
location inside the Visitor Center.) Not
all of the totems were Tlingit; many of the poles were collected from Prince of
Wales Island, south of Sitka, and were the work of the Haida. Although I had
seen numerous examples of northcoast native art, I didn’t know that the style
of art was called “formline design,” which utilizes mostly ovoid, u-shape, or
s-curved shapes. I also didn’t realize why the primary pigments you see in this
artwork are red, black, or blue-green. The answer is obvious when you think
about it: These were the primary
pigments available to native people based on what they could take from the natural
mineral world around them. The minerals were mixed with the oil from salmon
eggs to make paint. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnb5D67IFfacQd9tvdOm3J8snHYz8ACZtZR6VOl3ywBne8sLWcQAmQm3akJjXhK2Ca3L8DtFbh-EoQ59u4vl_BBdi-AlQO_uDP2TjzTd6-C_T2B0VlqmBURCJTg0__nLduI5KRzssksPj/s1600/Traditional+totem+palette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnb5D67IFfacQd9tvdOm3J8snHYz8ACZtZR6VOl3ywBne8sLWcQAmQm3akJjXhK2Ca3L8DtFbh-EoQ59u4vl_BBdi-AlQO_uDP2TjzTd6-C_T2B0VlqmBURCJTg0__nLduI5KRzssksPj/s1600/Traditional+totem+palette.jpg" height="400" width="341" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An arresting carving in a totem pole displaying the traditional color palette</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgl56J2AkMy0nKzbtm7_5NTMQjnV97UHZzIW6k3en28CiOwy8S9z-sYZgbuGP7nY-UagJ9HHq1_gzuOwbNyE54bTG4TcWpPBiEEEnAoSZvfTRnA9j6J1c6GXaElN4X6Nt2_-Yows3TbJH/s1600/Pigment+origins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgl56J2AkMy0nKzbtm7_5NTMQjnV97UHZzIW6k3en28CiOwy8S9z-sYZgbuGP7nY-UagJ9HHq1_gzuOwbNyE54bTG4TcWpPBiEEEnAoSZvfTRnA9j6J1c6GXaElN4X6Nt2_-Yows3TbJH/s1600/Pigment+origins.jpg" height="377" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The origins of the pigments traditionally used in totem poles </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Modern carvers have a wider variety of pigments available to them with which to paint their totem poles. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZZVwssX1a1bWYJ4GSf6CGiVTqffX5DVOhcrQZ77u_K_5gqxYvA9kwT3V22AqBZXEWA2PgG2VE3zAeNfKhevEoCyp3X-6xUhq6l6tu-duromshOFWro6C2idqfA6ThwaA5C4Ao2jRAXoU/s1600/Modern+totem+palette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZZVwssX1a1bWYJ4GSf6CGiVTqffX5DVOhcrQZ77u_K_5gqxYvA9kwT3V22AqBZXEWA2PgG2VE3zAeNfKhevEoCyp3X-6xUhq6l6tu-duromshOFWro6C2idqfA6ThwaA5C4Ao2jRAXoU/s1600/Modern+totem+palette.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Note that the carving in the foundation of this modern pole is painted in the traditional color palette</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We learned that there are several different types of totem
poles, used for different purposes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One of the most common totem poles is the crest pole. This
pole is symbolic of family history and ancestry. One thing that the Tlingit and
Haida tribes share in common is that they are each divided into two halves,
called <i>moieties</i>, the Raven and Eagle moieties. One function served by the moieties is to prevent marrying someone
too closely related to you. An Eagle has to marry someone from the Raven moiety
and vice-versa. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh91Ul4MmESMUfaqydjPHEmhiGxorDf0hMVURkl0kMhtjvfSyFveCqUur4UPifmXETBz1PZzGiWGAYM8gkOhZaf8Xg-Odo3925MR4G6xVt_73NG4PnQg4adC55yge9uyEJE_No9gDR9bCet/s1600/Raven+and+Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh91Ul4MmESMUfaqydjPHEmhiGxorDf0hMVURkl0kMhtjvfSyFveCqUur4UPifmXETBz1PZzGiWGAYM8gkOhZaf8Xg-Odo3925MR4G6xVt_73NG4PnQg4adC55yge9uyEJE_No9gDR9bCet/s1600/Raven+and+Eagle.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Raven and immature bald eagle</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the top of a crest pole, there is usually a figure called
the village watchman, and somewhere on the pole will be a carving of the
family’s moiety (Eagle or Raven). There will also be a carving of the family’s
clan (examples are beaver, sockeye salmon, or woodworm) somewhere on the pole.
An individual inherits their clan from their mother. Historic photographs of
ancient Tlingit and Haida villages show a crest totem pole next to almost every
dwelling. </span></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEgOkVGASmz-6-669PMvsln04HlCD05rXeoP0QBo9_nDhLfcv5IuT8EdQlaXvKhz2ujSfg7HRpGOfEjEkrebDczzwJRi6iXKu3YUlps2LM8yCF_rO0GXlAFdnzy6HAbGJ5LzXSj-AdU_nn/s1600/Crest+pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEgOkVGASmz-6-669PMvsln04HlCD05rXeoP0QBo9_nDhLfcv5IuT8EdQlaXvKhz2ujSfg7HRpGOfEjEkrebDczzwJRi6iXKu3YUlps2LM8yCF_rO0GXlAFdnzy6HAbGJ5LzXSj-AdU_nn/s1600/Crest+pole.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Can you spot the village watchman and the raven in this crest pole?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Unlike Euro-American family trees, which tend to be more
linear, the figures on a totem pole are not necessarily arranged in a
hierarchical fashion. The moiety crest is not always above the clan crest. We
also noticed that some figures on the pole are carved upside-down. When we
asked about that, we were told that was sometimes how the figures fit best
during the carving of the pole. There may also be a meaning associated with
some of the legends that has been lost.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ4ucKKvQscqH1pjIV32fnc_sWWXBateGA6QLy7TryKxt3fYS_o08svDRV4DFqUJcaLoPuSsEyzd1OsgYdcsMRZDZ3nsq3u8COjc8lIqEpa9BBDYmpXUKaHEgxVXlAh-WXAUA_qwO5xeGw/s1600/Upside+down+carving.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ4ucKKvQscqH1pjIV32fnc_sWWXBateGA6QLy7TryKxt3fYS_o08svDRV4DFqUJcaLoPuSsEyzd1OsgYdcsMRZDZ3nsq3u8COjc8lIqEpa9BBDYmpXUKaHEgxVXlAh-WXAUA_qwO5xeGw/s1600/Upside+down+carving.jpg" height="320" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An upside-down figure on a totem pole</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another type of pole is called a legend pole, and it tells a
particular story or stories. This legend pole incorporated three different
legends:</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWBwcyMx6Zie5w-wVmcZsBqEbqUtaxsBz3PfeN_HLLhj8V0hyqw0PFsnxjyp5Zb3TzlHSx7OG-futkQkpNgOXjWIcXwlNdRPUiGbIXPiE_T0ca_doCq4TEKMMvC7AwxforcEgso7glwft/s1600/Legend+pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWBwcyMx6Zie5w-wVmcZsBqEbqUtaxsBz3PfeN_HLLhj8V0hyqw0PFsnxjyp5Zb3TzlHSx7OG-futkQkpNgOXjWIcXwlNdRPUiGbIXPiE_T0ca_doCq4TEKMMvC7AwxforcEgso7glwft/s1600/Legend+pole.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Legend pole</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The top portion of the pole illustrates the legend of the
cruel father who murdered his children by holding them tight against his fish
spine belt. I heard two versions of this legend while in Sitka. In one version,
after the father killed seven of his twelve children in this manner, the mother
saved the remaining five children by turning them into puppies. </span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F3UlNp8HYUpKOym2VmDU_rk1A2Qn6E9UWL_ea5WFbtY7Ken7USjNgQ0jKzSQjwu65r_ZUuHlZMyFNPDsRd2go7wxmgIdWQe0sbepchEVLKiTHV7giejjIVQzDaWV_c-X-tttyi5msR_a/s1600/Father+fish+spine+killer+legend.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F3UlNp8HYUpKOym2VmDU_rk1A2Qn6E9UWL_ea5WFbtY7Ken7USjNgQ0jKzSQjwu65r_ZUuHlZMyFNPDsRd2go7wxmgIdWQe0sbepchEVLKiTHV7giejjIVQzDaWV_c-X-tttyi5msR_a/s1600/Father+fish+spine+killer+legend.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The middle of the pole depicts the legend of the woman who
married a bear: </span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwGYnGbRxYeUp_IZBa7aBWcavJVHhopHnfSID-df4j3PyjA8q9xDTXmlQ5xGPSd5cQFg6UpBL6UxUdLnSxhBImxqHXkcKOz86LEmFTxliMT-8JvBYPEEEWukwC6rWljGFtilj7D-b53qvP/s1600/Woman+who+married+a+bear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwGYnGbRxYeUp_IZBa7aBWcavJVHhopHnfSID-df4j3PyjA8q9xDTXmlQ5xGPSd5cQFg6UpBL6UxUdLnSxhBImxqHXkcKOz86LEmFTxliMT-8JvBYPEEEWukwC6rWljGFtilj7D-b53qvP/s1600/Woman+who+married+a+bear.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The bottom portion of the pole describes how the woodworm
clan got their name. The red, segmented figure in the carving represents a woodworm:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjEPTL7TCowSuqCykJW7IG8WXVqMGB2Y0JaTj4dGBVLUrNiipxZrB-OQcN8O_ijhw-6WcZTZIg1Gq3o3MW_KVxubXJKIrhICRlv3uD6kOu0k0hlnPUupi-2AlzC2DzANOENWNr_UktZC3/s1600/How+the+wormwood+clan+got+its+crest+legend.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjEPTL7TCowSuqCykJW7IG8WXVqMGB2Y0JaTj4dGBVLUrNiipxZrB-OQcN8O_ijhw-6WcZTZIg1Gq3o3MW_KVxubXJKIrhICRlv3uD6kOu0k0hlnPUupi-2AlzC2DzANOENWNr_UktZC3/s1600/How+the+wormwood+clan+got+its+crest+legend.jpg" height="320" width="257" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Two other types of poles are mortuary and memorial poles. In
both cases, these poles are carved when someone dies; but a mortuary pole is
for an actual interment, while a memorial pole is to honor the memory of
someone who has died. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Here are two views of the same mortuary pole: </span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC5fbO1J7zWAQ-X27yj1fMATakPjER5K60xt3EfNJ8-FnKpcWDRkBX6Im-9BAzRe3jAE11NJ0gaIWHwvqawgxf8FiG2t6V_9KEeLhrqp9vp4lLzM0N-z5HUMP0XNWx0Shi_EkshS9_igF0/s1600/Mortuary+pole+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC5fbO1J7zWAQ-X27yj1fMATakPjER5K60xt3EfNJ8-FnKpcWDRkBX6Im-9BAzRe3jAE11NJ0gaIWHwvqawgxf8FiG2t6V_9KEeLhrqp9vp4lLzM0N-z5HUMP0XNWx0Shi_EkshS9_igF0/s1600/Mortuary+pole+4.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGOdXm8e5hNbs1G98XCDZgtWxEozFFERgs7IbHLZgKz-d0IIcfFUZuhj7gxZXx1OGw7alldB9t89nLN01OCrBqaHdQNbCYIsVJcf9QTe4lndHgeuDx1L5DGmS_Zsy5gcAo89vbjuChyphenhyphenjx/s1600/Mortuary+pole+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGOdXm8e5hNbs1G98XCDZgtWxEozFFERgs7IbHLZgKz-d0IIcfFUZuhj7gxZXx1OGw7alldB9t89nLN01OCrBqaHdQNbCYIsVJcf9QTe4lndHgeuDx1L5DGmS_Zsy5gcAo89vbjuChyphenhyphenjx/s1600/Mortuary+pole+2.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sometimes, mortuary poles contained a hollow compartment in
their backside into which an individual’s remains may be placed when cremated.
After cremation, ashes were placed into bentwood boxes, which might be stacked
in a mortuary pole in the same way related family members are buried in a
crypt. Later, at the Sheldon Jackson Museum, we saw an example of a mortuary
pole with the back carved out for this purpose: </span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLxPKXiSGTNuGsF2fWI1vhT29ZVnkHe04zwbaPqpG5VPVQiDJUxVxd3JWi-g4bVKxiKI43Ly3Ge_hOQQa8pBHKpcyrXDbmAP9g-WVdYUeRn3MrSKhQe7es0uZmDZnUiItIq5rOv93EezUy/s1600/Mortuary+pole+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLxPKXiSGTNuGsF2fWI1vhT29ZVnkHe04zwbaPqpG5VPVQiDJUxVxd3JWi-g4bVKxiKI43Ly3Ge_hOQQa8pBHKpcyrXDbmAP9g-WVdYUeRn3MrSKhQe7es0uZmDZnUiItIq5rOv93EezUy/s1600/Mortuary+pole+3.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A compartment carved in the back of a mortuary pole (The two figures to the left and right are parts of different totem poles) </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the historical park, there was also a memorial pole
dedicated to the Kiks.adi people of the Tlingit tribe, who lost their lives in
the Battle of 1804. At the bottom of the pole, you can see the Raven helmet worn
by the warrior who led them in battle, K'alyaan. (K'alyaan, also known as Katlian, survived the battle.) We saw the actual helmet used in the
battle---which was covered in real raven feathers---on exhibit at the Sheldon
Jackson Museum, but I neglected to take a picture of it.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73YkV84CqSlt82tK2_leFJy84El1EDZDIEuX08D-yzUuP3uoBuYqPbRSefWFuqunvkKbTX5icRNw2r39iNDcxwJMKqZGbvijouugJaSfVq3yVWdxQBsjHixIiagxLdvTD38l3R33kXJzo/s1600/Kiks+adi+memorial+pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73YkV84CqSlt82tK2_leFJy84El1EDZDIEuX08D-yzUuP3uoBuYqPbRSefWFuqunvkKbTX5icRNw2r39iNDcxwJMKqZGbvijouugJaSfVq3yVWdxQBsjHixIiagxLdvTD38l3R33kXJzo/s1600/Kiks+adi+memorial+pole.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A memorial pole commemorating warriors who lost their lives in battle</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A fifth type of pole was the ridicule pole. A ridicule pole
was used within the tribe as a nonviolent means of confrontation and a way to
shame someone into making retribution for a debt or an act of wrongdoing. We
learned that all totem poles are not carved to last. If a ridicule pole was
erected in a village, once the individual at fault paid off the debt, returned
the stolen goods, or otherwise made the situation right again, the ridicule
pole was removed and burned. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A native I met from Kake, who helped staff the Sheldon
Jackson Museum, told me that the ridicule pole didn’t work so well with people
outside the tribe. The pole might be erected, but the debt would not be paid;
so the pole would remain standing. This example of a ridicule pole shows a
white trader at the top. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpV4ZRBhEuQQw8WpW3AZQjybwFogTdun7gVW1aq5Q05MqiqcFppaXuTmBP0B1jTJDBdD5N-3X-FAxgh-Ta_oYJIWM7LCP5rV4d-Ap0l9Y1glSBwUUtHJZPD1l5ofaDDzaaNXiXiYlob4V/s1600/Ridicule+Pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpV4ZRBhEuQQw8WpW3AZQjybwFogTdun7gVW1aq5Q05MqiqcFppaXuTmBP0B1jTJDBdD5N-3X-FAxgh-Ta_oYJIWM7LCP5rV4d-Ap0l9Y1glSBwUUtHJZPD1l5ofaDDzaaNXiXiYlob4V/s1600/Ridicule+Pole.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ridicule pole</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the Sheldon Jackson Museum, we saw artifacts from
indigenous peoples throughout coastal Alaska and British Columbia, including
the Inuit, Inupiaq, Aleut, Tlingit, Haida, and Athabascan tribes. The Jackson
Museum reminded us of the Bishop Museum in Hawai’i, in that it displayed the
artifacts from similar cultural groups alongside one another. In the case of
native North Americans, there was much more diversity among the artifacts due
to the varying topography and climate in the north, and to the wider range of materials
available to northwest coastal native people as a result. For example, while pandanus
and coconut fiber were used exclusively for weaving throughout the South Pacific, we saw
that the Tlingit use spruce roots; Aleuts (who live on treeless islands) use grass;
and the Athabascan use willow for weaving baskets and other items. The Inuit
and Inupiaq, who live in a landscape covered with snow and ice use containers
made out of mammal organs like seal bladders to serve the same functions as
woven baskets. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Jackson Museum is a beautifully designed museum. It is
currently housed in an octagonal building, with the large artifacts displayed
in or above three concentric rings of glass cases located around the museum’s
central totem pole exhibit. Beneath the innermost ring of display cases, there
are a series of drawers which visitors are allowed to open. Opening each drawer
is a miracle of discovery, as displayed inside the drawers (under glass and
labeled with a short summary) are the smaller artifacts, grouped together by
type. I loved the thematic arrangement of the exhibits, with all the like
objects grouped together, regardless of tribe or chronology.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My favorite artifacts were examples of actual watercraft
used by each cultural group.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlhOE0_YcFZRFwbnyAUTtKvQIvbFZhyEFP4iAtGDkB8O6DNR5aXtaeCOJdawO83M-oMgIxRvwmUsqzE-jOqyHIWHMKCvt-fh_shKs3X_tpOAqRsNkckxaBOmaieegqM8_HxS3RjSwfzQm/s1600/Inupiaq+Kayak+Cape+Espenberg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlhOE0_YcFZRFwbnyAUTtKvQIvbFZhyEFP4iAtGDkB8O6DNR5aXtaeCOJdawO83M-oMgIxRvwmUsqzE-jOqyHIWHMKCvt-fh_shKs3X_tpOAqRsNkckxaBOmaieegqM8_HxS3RjSwfzQm/s1600/Inupiaq+Kayak+Cape+Espenberg.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Inupiaq Kayak from Cape Espenberg: The model of the paddler is wearing waterproof clothing made of seal skin</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There were also a huge number of artifacts surrounding the
daily living activities of hunting and fishing. (Apologies in advance for the glare and shadow in the photos I took in the museum: I don't have a polarizing filter.)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzptMFjQ-ci9GQZY4rdvxx8nNQYT3vuIb1fnZevNFpm-EEu7fl49XLGF4aQ50FdEafFlLcEd47GCQc1ZmVTjti3UaJ56vl9w0jhpC2iXGIPEOzUwt1As6Q_K9K2PAi_NXy-AqXJyt5Y0MB/s1600/Halibut+lure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzptMFjQ-ci9GQZY4rdvxx8nNQYT3vuIb1fnZevNFpm-EEu7fl49XLGF4aQ50FdEafFlLcEd47GCQc1ZmVTjti3UaJ56vl9w0jhpC2iXGIPEOzUwt1As6Q_K9K2PAi_NXy-AqXJyt5Y0MB/s1600/Halibut+lure.jpg" height="323" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A halibut lure and a graphic showing how it was used to catch halibut</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> I also enjoyed discovering artifacts that I had never
heard of before, such as story knives. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUGqAZjMZpo3ATgKaIGAf-gbQnDLqL5GxliBL7rxZAzVrP2n6kKNh3g-g-0n1aqaQgz-MhFbDDFIhqMOMIuuO97exNX1EqLUKbGOtd3nfh-YZVwXXeJr8rtNwxnhoxpurhERsSzO_4I9y/s1600/Story+Knives.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUGqAZjMZpo3ATgKaIGAf-gbQnDLqL5GxliBL7rxZAzVrP2n6kKNh3g-g-0n1aqaQgz-MhFbDDFIhqMOMIuuO97exNX1EqLUKbGOtd3nfh-YZVwXXeJr8rtNwxnhoxpurhERsSzO_4I9y/s1600/Story+Knives.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some examples of story knives</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_bVV_WVUJowJe1CwBfpkKOv09XyY0kdq4YKwtW-bfnms2gcrYSk1FHVaCRi3iYnc4WYqaEmPn6FeQ5dKSDvOwFPaYWck5eHjc8zlYm1RXZJAQgVW6nQyqVW_o_N8mj-8tCyWcmu5xdze4/s1600/Story+knife+description.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_bVV_WVUJowJe1CwBfpkKOv09XyY0kdq4YKwtW-bfnms2gcrYSk1FHVaCRi3iYnc4WYqaEmPn6FeQ5dKSDvOwFPaYWck5eHjc8zlYm1RXZJAQgVW6nQyqVW_o_N8mj-8tCyWcmu5xdze4/s1600/Story+knife+description.jpg" height="466" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Story knife description from a drawer in the Sheldon Jackson Museum</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was interesting to learn that prior to first contact, the
Tlingit used the same pigments they used to paint totem poles to decorate their
clothing. It was only after Euro-American contact that tribes began adorning
their clothing with the colorful buttons and beads we see today.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxaTRiL4odveF3o9p3K2qND3aEGdujAqUNUcNFYDbPnDFtGvaW1RWjytUxXl1QP4mq8Szl1VlecKbjHM0kCZgY5gHXSexoSKVCPCQbJm3qZMclaR-Wkx4jouhMkMmIbMOFi63GPZGJ5LL/s1600/Original+clothing+decoration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxaTRiL4odveF3o9p3K2qND3aEGdujAqUNUcNFYDbPnDFtGvaW1RWjytUxXl1QP4mq8Szl1VlecKbjHM0kCZgY5gHXSexoSKVCPCQbJm3qZMclaR-Wkx4jouhMkMmIbMOFi63GPZGJ5LL/s1600/Original+clothing+decoration.jpg" height="400" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An early Tlingit garment showing the traditional color palette</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPF2xd7zYUAYAPYg1_n6Te61r5fdmZBRmSN0mBMVW7fDqQ720ub1Un_FwgsLM9_TE-6KOcohev30rTGMQqFm9RaxYMBtBLtLI_t6M9Bnf4UXk0otr6jFr5Bdk2_bLgCGWhv5rayRsX-CKf/s1600/Tlingit+today.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPF2xd7zYUAYAPYg1_n6Te61r5fdmZBRmSN0mBMVW7fDqQ720ub1Un_FwgsLM9_TE-6KOcohev30rTGMQqFm9RaxYMBtBLtLI_t6M9Bnf4UXk0otr6jFr5Bdk2_bLgCGWhv5rayRsX-CKf/s1600/Tlingit+today.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">What a Tlingit ceremonial garment might look like today (note the buttons)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HD8Oogxkbo4CAp8nkYFdFnW2wEm_T4JsTgpAQCHH14z_oXUNRaBFzCmhTWkAwyNPUP5o6Dajuv-wjgZWrbA83EpTU_JaGMtySCYPrSm9Rac5DdAs7tAyJXpWs11-018bF1xufXDFvurT/s1600/Beaded+garment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HD8Oogxkbo4CAp8nkYFdFnW2wEm_T4JsTgpAQCHH14z_oXUNRaBFzCmhTWkAwyNPUP5o6Dajuv-wjgZWrbA83EpTU_JaGMtySCYPrSm9Rac5DdAs7tAyJXpWs11-018bF1xufXDFvurT/s1600/Beaded+garment.jpg" height="400" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I wasn't clear on whether this is a Tlingit or Athabascan garment, but the beading indicates post Euro-American contact</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After spending only a short time in Sitka, I leave feeling greatly enriched by its striking natural beauty and rich cultural history. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IxI-eLVAGLzKibfcI-6vLZHgQPag3o3OTqIY9ADFGL1Q2zUK7veLozDx8LoLQYPQdsA2ePwRlTQzqY_ULhNymWBSqMXb3BGSEEcw-nQNW4bnSEl6u5hY0hGosk1GcZ_sophoOiVZOaLm/s1600/Raven+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IxI-eLVAGLzKibfcI-6vLZHgQPag3o3OTqIY9ADFGL1Q2zUK7veLozDx8LoLQYPQdsA2ePwRlTQzqY_ULhNymWBSqMXb3BGSEEcw-nQNW4bnSEl6u5hY0hGosk1GcZ_sophoOiVZOaLm/s1600/Raven+2.jpg" height="261" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Young raven on the beach</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-62192130908778344562014-06-22T15:10:00.003-07:002014-06-29T10:12:44.949-07:00And Now for Something Completely Different...!<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My
last few posts have been very text-heavy, so this will be a
pictures post. It's an homage to Sitka and reflects our feelings of how
nice it is to be back in Alaska and the Pacific Northwest!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IUll7H0MgoCCxiFAf74vxRGdRw7KsUDXnOwSEijy6XuNuKig2fUl3NRyizY1rNrg2rFUeXXmXoKX6WNMk93xA87p2PZNViwBlyawkXkfy63n3VZ_tUkwnMOxRsBgXh0XlLN2uckWV8Bb/s1600/Eliason+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IUll7H0MgoCCxiFAf74vxRGdRw7KsUDXnOwSEijy6XuNuKig2fUl3NRyizY1rNrg2rFUeXXmXoKX6WNMk93xA87p2PZNViwBlyawkXkfy63n3VZ_tUkwnMOxRsBgXh0XlLN2uckWV8Bb/s1600/Eliason+Harbor.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Eliason/Thomsen Harbors, Sitka, Alaska</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhsEDJESf8pnoMJivDE_WUgkBiY4k0_zMPXwyiDiWWW6FJ4mN6U5I1tjn-83c64GGc67IXSLRIyMrpdvQps8NzthxRSBJR1vCG0qeouEqqI499w7QVKyUHjrIIAjLG_yLHlOzUN1zGNfu/s1600/Nootka+rose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhsEDJESf8pnoMJivDE_WUgkBiY4k0_zMPXwyiDiWWW6FJ4mN6U5I1tjn-83c64GGc67IXSLRIyMrpdvQps8NzthxRSBJR1vCG0qeouEqqI499w7QVKyUHjrIIAjLG_yLHlOzUN1zGNfu/s1600/Nootka+rose.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Nootka roses</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lrN-85LPM2YFQtDxOl4Tpvwn2tSsMTWaiSwNl9FdB7iOLc9qw0X8zM2UyYvM3u2n3LvCBiHsqVz3ip9C5SNr9MpffgCU9UwIVxW8UWR9wQTeroGRDn-LRLqyJH7p4id-cmC_rOncSK9S/s1600/The+eagle+cries.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lrN-85LPM2YFQtDxOl4Tpvwn2tSsMTWaiSwNl9FdB7iOLc9qw0X8zM2UyYvM3u2n3LvCBiHsqVz3ip9C5SNr9MpffgCU9UwIVxW8UWR9wQTeroGRDn-LRLqyJH7p4id-cmC_rOncSK9S/s1600/The+eagle+cries.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The eagle cries</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH_T_-b3FPK6P8Blmunj3LmLtgK3szU2MiOjBOydKcZAxsuim42u0QvpUZHWXOJPoVJu5rJHPriIiGTBSdC_MPGvMLTvyKi8RHJdZzoiRVghtqgmp35T7Ro_6eaPUsQAP1p0CQghU7glt/s1600/Crest+pole.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><br /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH_T_-b3FPK6P8Blmunj3LmLtgK3szU2MiOjBOydKcZAxsuim42u0QvpUZHWXOJPoVJu5rJHPriIiGTBSdC_MPGvMLTvyKi8RHJdZzoiRVghtqgmp35T7Ro_6eaPUsQAP1p0CQghU7glt/s1600/Crest+pole.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A crest totem pole in Sitka National Historical Park</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFBIzFcBQXfI2a5kS9qSKWOED_XSpWcXsk5dzO0VtVLgLnB69hRRPFbCiPogxTY7KV08zoFqaZW0wPs3C9m6olp-o33V9QXvdlBqydn7aCloG76om_4HMGCcERqej60ZRCV4XM3wvldKC/s1600/St+Michaels+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFBIzFcBQXfI2a5kS9qSKWOED_XSpWcXsk5dzO0VtVLgLnB69hRRPFbCiPogxTY7KV08zoFqaZW0wPs3C9m6olp-o33V9QXvdlBqydn7aCloG76om_4HMGCcERqej60ZRCV4XM3wvldKC/s1600/St+Michaels+2.jpg" height="400" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The spires of St. Michael's Russian Orthodox church (rebuilt, 1966) as seen from Castle Hill</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUJZQhlt6n0pRkbml3bL1_6Jexo4r-NR77flV99BfkACG2lxG0f6lSPP4w60_B84QGuv9rZ0Atr30tSVJsmCW4CvePONGy8hB_IvlqQrd0tbLg7BpUQdJi5kyrbimzpuA9UbeQDy1mwml/s1600/Trail+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUJZQhlt6n0pRkbml3bL1_6Jexo4r-NR77flV99BfkACG2lxG0f6lSPP4w60_B84QGuv9rZ0Atr30tSVJsmCW4CvePONGy8hB_IvlqQrd0tbLg7BpUQdJi5kyrbimzpuA9UbeQDy1mwml/s1600/Trail+entrance.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Herring Cove Trail</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Dy1PUkCWc2CQ_B76UlGNjMtAh4sKCsHtNwkRBXVWhgE5XJviGNpxBPpFHy1UowdI4hetuQFJggmGsgYWMWUITcHQNozkdR1XoTwQEP9LJkMEActTTX1mCsvGbYLR539TzZj0j_H99oeq/s1600/Waterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Dy1PUkCWc2CQ_B76UlGNjMtAh4sKCsHtNwkRBXVWhgE5XJviGNpxBPpFHy1UowdI4hetuQFJggmGsgYWMWUITcHQNozkdR1XoTwQEP9LJkMEActTTX1mCsvGbYLR539TzZj0j_H99oeq/s1600/Waterfall.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Waterfall with Devil's Club</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaCSvCmXtqSuKOhJzPZP94bGJDSS72wdnISwHx-TtTdAhufhRx0Ef1R2XjZJVu5ZQjVLoqVZWAf8WpQrceR_mvDMiiEt19aAwvLXS5HL5FpvJSP1SqKJs1CCDT1Dkxj5tQ-qigyAmRkg-9/s1600/Bunchberry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaCSvCmXtqSuKOhJzPZP94bGJDSS72wdnISwHx-TtTdAhufhRx0Ef1R2XjZJVu5ZQjVLoqVZWAf8WpQrceR_mvDMiiEt19aAwvLXS5HL5FpvJSP1SqKJs1CCDT1Dkxj5tQ-qigyAmRkg-9/s1600/Bunchberry.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Bunchberry, also known as dwarf dogwood</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiX8Xox9tnxNfG6mmSv_-OV1YIHzYKjAsXQ7l2TOB3CNgg0zXfI65t8ncHKCqG_nnpFqvXB-MjpzNaJkNoeskErxsRjbX_5Jk0hwOmX5OSgvs_sR3PdIoiPJt4uGYoYSF_vfib7IKqZZgT/s1600/Swamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiX8Xox9tnxNfG6mmSv_-OV1YIHzYKjAsXQ7l2TOB3CNgg0zXfI65t8ncHKCqG_nnpFqvXB-MjpzNaJkNoeskErxsRjbX_5Jk0hwOmX5OSgvs_sR3PdIoiPJt4uGYoYSF_vfib7IKqZZgT/s1600/Swamp.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Skunk cabbage swamp</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAQccsoLqIw-SV74K-6U_szsVOiFyKpSRpulmrwne83fGp9d1bOhzWgYls1oSnRXmT1dm2w-mnnLv_8nZf3KWUg49kxPuFKZoMIylgLkBp0-E6PDRKJ0EZTOIS3v_c6eljJcETGFhIt_mj/s1600/Waterfall+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAQccsoLqIw-SV74K-6U_szsVOiFyKpSRpulmrwne83fGp9d1bOhzWgYls1oSnRXmT1dm2w-mnnLv_8nZf3KWUg49kxPuFKZoMIylgLkBp0-E6PDRKJ0EZTOIS3v_c6eljJcETGFhIt_mj/s1600/Waterfall+(2).jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Temperate zone green</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAc3ueyv0G-wMQBqTNispCCq_93ALSjv5MpMIl2fsZOxJZlBjWKx2dHKgjJY9oESyNm71OBVw-5jhXGLVTbz6FBis_1WLnzm7XHy3W0Qy5rIeTx0a-e8QfPZ71ad7iJQkNV25nH2SfsOsU/s1600/Shooting+stars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAc3ueyv0G-wMQBqTNispCCq_93ALSjv5MpMIl2fsZOxJZlBjWKx2dHKgjJY9oESyNm71OBVw-5jhXGLVTbz6FBis_1WLnzm7XHy3W0Qy5rIeTx0a-e8QfPZ71ad7iJQkNV25nH2SfsOsU/s1600/Shooting+stars.jpg" height="238" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Shooting stars</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZJfk691LnZicbmbdQcBnqedszy1Q6AbD99wbKLs4_YbOVv4qxpgsAPAKBGzOS_GxiTnURvKaxetRfG3a-_zvcb-DvNMvZMcauNic7JmX_WxAB6BUwkxM89IFCg7PMEypBdB5h_yJkTfC/s1600/No+photos+please.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZJfk691LnZicbmbdQcBnqedszy1Q6AbD99wbKLs4_YbOVv4qxpgsAPAKBGzOS_GxiTnURvKaxetRfG3a-_zvcb-DvNMvZMcauNic7JmX_WxAB6BUwkxM89IFCg7PMEypBdB5h_yJkTfC/s1600/No+photos+please.jpg" height="241" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Please, no photos!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPo7z9F3OXKgCjF2Ab8VomJVuUTefZub_AMhA8IWTy_IQ2DvatA37LRL4Z2wA2FqBLtWUaUqL4frl7hmSL6Tw_dk_3_OnIiHYj4qNt-Muk5X-sOgKou2IynoOzhP4TtQBpoHwTnpPwzLm7/s1600/Troller+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPo7z9F3OXKgCjF2Ab8VomJVuUTefZub_AMhA8IWTy_IQ2DvatA37LRL4Z2wA2FqBLtWUaUqL4frl7hmSL6Tw_dk_3_OnIiHYj4qNt-Muk5X-sOgKou2IynoOzhP4TtQBpoHwTnpPwzLm7/s1600/Troller+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another day at the office</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkyJsFF56PaEKaVXcXDWM9GheijfYdYWl3osYmo1zbHcgxRnoLJHqsDX4XLl3MFooOWbzPr7xb1jtuCboVGkVLh1yYcysIx3TdHl_DV_aXfMD8qvVU7WEeFdHrEYCcjuh3yPwbx0jIpme/s1600/Troller+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkyJsFF56PaEKaVXcXDWM9GheijfYdYWl3osYmo1zbHcgxRnoLJHqsDX4XLl3MFooOWbzPr7xb1jtuCboVGkVLh1yYcysIx3TdHl_DV_aXfMD8qvVU7WEeFdHrEYCcjuh3yPwbx0jIpme/s1600/Troller+3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sitka salmon troller</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZfuuWuuG9ifvknfPJ_asik3iNbY2ChmdHYgkDbhUW5ta0dgNw0Pg2tm-6LdJ7q_VLNJbP7dwyIqIaSRosVSD3ubldNVEAwym4YQwQFdLlJ6Ynyv6GgYosyTEvgFqhzUf09fQb879bCqW/s1600/Troller+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZfuuWuuG9ifvknfPJ_asik3iNbY2ChmdHYgkDbhUW5ta0dgNw0Pg2tm-6LdJ7q_VLNJbP7dwyIqIaSRosVSD3ubldNVEAwym4YQwQFdLlJ6Ynyv6GgYosyTEvgFqhzUf09fQb879bCqW/s1600/Troller+4.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"Ain't no nookie like chinookie..." (Ray Troll)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7oWW8yzb_BekKB27nkgZmEBCCeayEmIIzo7mQL1ym5_WtoxEsgdYQ62bxw9GJn3yDpDHmWGsdve5FWpQCmdQorDu30mRA0dGJ8UYX7EXLmq3q98aoNatUr6ocIZl434-kvt1rNPzGROv/s1600/Mushroom+rock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7oWW8yzb_BekKB27nkgZmEBCCeayEmIIzo7mQL1ym5_WtoxEsgdYQ62bxw9GJn3yDpDHmWGsdve5FWpQCmdQorDu30mRA0dGJ8UYX7EXLmq3q98aoNatUr6ocIZl434-kvt1rNPzGROv/s1600/Mushroom+rock.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mushroom rock garden</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSYg6rPtpO3eaP7ymjUjVlDWzwE1zwj0ZOowQWf13TnC2SGOSf289WBhL6pp8J9-HSSEZpp-AuexGsLdOFNNMGEePdRDloI48QUQVI1xMogBqug44O44iV-2JSXKQGvn1OlQqqaFd3-Os/s1600/Northcoast+islet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSYg6rPtpO3eaP7ymjUjVlDWzwE1zwj0ZOowQWf13TnC2SGOSf289WBhL6pp8J9-HSSEZpp-AuexGsLdOFNNMGEePdRDloI48QUQVI1xMogBqug44O44iV-2JSXKQGvn1OlQqqaFd3-Os/s1600/Northcoast+islet.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Northcoast islet</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjznXf0zHvCxaPfI5CWZb7ZnYfqust65KhTay2DPDSzGFDINE9fa0Qw-Ka-YTE5CIve4z_TbCB8UWst25WwaXCoDaRkLJW_tjRO1jw3Y0UxX32FuDHk3zon99Amd9pujbyBOstNd0WwA9/s1600/Hot+Springs+Shelter+and+Ruins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjznXf0zHvCxaPfI5CWZb7ZnYfqust65KhTay2DPDSzGFDINE9fa0Qw-Ka-YTE5CIve4z_TbCB8UWst25WwaXCoDaRkLJW_tjRO1jw3Y0UxX32FuDHk3zon99Amd9pujbyBOstNd0WwA9/s1600/Hot+Springs+Shelter+and+Ruins.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Shelter at upper Goddard hot spring with ruins of old chimney and fireplace in background</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-je3cAqpdB4pNrmiVH8Fb5n2oY4Wbv5PX2bq-Yz_OoG0icwq1UeQa81ls2AtsKi4Yj8zhSUAGOps3V0Rovhdc0b4RnQPOhM2Rg8kl3vBOkY4Lk7EiZs5fiCOU-pJYZPCPh52Tkb03IUZD/s1600/Silhouette+in+Hot+Springs+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-je3cAqpdB4pNrmiVH8Fb5n2oY4Wbv5PX2bq-Yz_OoG0icwq1UeQa81ls2AtsKi4Yj8zhSUAGOps3V0Rovhdc0b4RnQPOhM2Rg8kl3vBOkY4Lk7EiZs5fiCOU-pJYZPCPh52Tkb03IUZD/s1600/Silhouette+in+Hot+Springs+Bay.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette at anchor in Hot Springs Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-35771553800486947052014-06-16T09:07:00.005-07:002014-06-21T18:33:24.541-07:00Hawai'i, Past and Present<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9hudFZ03feo1Q9jGiVNiZhkGjcEn0ubUh_mlxU45eUrruYqqkV-3ldmEjtSCQMDuYWiBKpn17aelXD07sDbU-lRTOmtsfWA-3XyBEkk38rlY54IfxagW-oM0VOm1AI8ziIZE0Zylk5UV/s1600/Detail+Papa+Mau+mural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9hudFZ03feo1Q9jGiVNiZhkGjcEn0ubUh_mlxU45eUrruYqqkV-3ldmEjtSCQMDuYWiBKpn17aelXD07sDbU-lRTOmtsfWA-3XyBEkk38rlY54IfxagW-oM0VOm1AI8ziIZE0Zylk5UV/s1600/Detail+Papa+Mau+mural.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Papa Mau Piailug: a Micronesian who influenced a new generation of Hawaiian navigators</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A true history of Hawai’i is a story that would require many
tomes. The intent of this post is to share a few specific episodes from Hawai’i’s
history that I personally found interesting or moving, or that I learned more
about, while on the island of Oahu. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While in Honolulu, my friend Lisa invited me to tour ‘Iolani
Palace with herself, and her visiting mother and sister. ‘Iolani Palace told
the story of Hawaii’s last two monarchs, King David Kalakaua and Queen
Liliuokalani. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_oUv366cqdZz3lqF-ORVURGY2AB7yMRKfamiMAwYp0525p627Rj151Lweb-VA1DrrBWTBsrtG5SgOOONXw7LTxGTOvda2hzZbzqlBbw8bqTQ1vjJCWmfY6h1mynBe8B7vTBj6eMrZcUT/s1600/kalakaua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_oUv366cqdZz3lqF-ORVURGY2AB7yMRKfamiMAwYp0525p627Rj151Lweb-VA1DrrBWTBsrtG5SgOOONXw7LTxGTOvda2hzZbzqlBbw8bqTQ1vjJCWmfY6h1mynBe8B7vTBj6eMrZcUT/s1600/kalakaua.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">King David Kalakaua*</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Source: http://www.hawaiiankingdom.org/political-history.shtml</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">King Kalakaua, who had ‘Iolani Palace built, was very progressive,
and he wanted the most modern conveniences, such as the telephone and WC
pictured below, included in the palace. (It is reported that ‘Iolani Palace had
electricity and telephones before the White House.) </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIm_7y1uc6EZXyniKcihP2AxNkKifoMcSKGCE9N5yBmLaHkf5ffjb36EYjdiyqd1bKDlhzbTf5pK7OTdJA9yjab84zjIdwMKN6iwYREE0ojNUqdkzKf-ns8u8zT-wQ6ffCOiCRM9FNtS2/s1600/Koa+staircase+Iolani+Palace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIm_7y1uc6EZXyniKcihP2AxNkKifoMcSKGCE9N5yBmLaHkf5ffjb36EYjdiyqd1bKDlhzbTf5pK7OTdJA9yjab84zjIdwMKN6iwYREE0ojNUqdkzKf-ns8u8zT-wQ6ffCOiCRM9FNtS2/s1600/Koa+staircase+Iolani+Palace.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Koa wood staircase in 'Iolani Palace</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1MWah4kVze2cXwHPjRV_XGg5dPUBzwB_GySonUgUr79d0J8LRMBRZoCjOIGPxrdWeFCnADSCzcs3Sp0_y4mT9C6dlhlxE7OHt86JsJZi4jPvvi34646FSyc_ICFpgpfv-jtm0fi-G7N-/s1600/'Iolani+Palace+Dining+Room.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1MWah4kVze2cXwHPjRV_XGg5dPUBzwB_GySonUgUr79d0J8LRMBRZoCjOIGPxrdWeFCnADSCzcs3Sp0_y4mT9C6dlhlxE7OHt86JsJZi4jPvvi34646FSyc_ICFpgpfv-jtm0fi-G7N-/s1600/'Iolani+Palace+Dining+Room.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dining room where King Kalakaua entertained international dignitaries </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Uf5PTZjV1C_U6m66CSEcjEhE-IoobTTRxrNDoTWKeulYux5qrYJBrmvTcwkcuO1hGwBRPERb47GSEgJk9lrBd0TbGd0eQA5z15irzQf9Ma4lP-YkwCJtvYCXbAZsQATaBROOnFO8Iyyz/s1600/Throne+Room+at+Iolani+Palace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Uf5PTZjV1C_U6m66CSEcjEhE-IoobTTRxrNDoTWKeulYux5qrYJBrmvTcwkcuO1hGwBRPERb47GSEgJk9lrBd0TbGd0eQA5z15irzQf9Ma4lP-YkwCJtvYCXbAZsQATaBROOnFO8Iyyz/s1600/Throne+Room+at+Iolani+Palace.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">'Iolani Palace throne room</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCM0gf92Z1JW3lfi8MnZy8_N6z32r8JiqYk1QYV_-K7FiSs0E6ubzynLosdZympU1cfLdemRORnhyphenhyphenJ0BOCvbcvH_dQ2l07LVE6FIALfJPhJRVxsUJ11v-zVvySOrbsK9cdI3wxCfRH49Oh/s1600/Telephone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCM0gf92Z1JW3lfi8MnZy8_N6z32r8JiqYk1QYV_-K7FiSs0E6ubzynLosdZympU1cfLdemRORnhyphenhyphenJ0BOCvbcvH_dQ2l07LVE6FIALfJPhJRVxsUJ11v-zVvySOrbsK9cdI3wxCfRH49Oh/s1600/Telephone.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Telephone in 'Iolani Palace</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA_m543OVmNs_6L79rF2io7WK-hw1-fy0lwgMGwoTQg9qTobXMbu2f2F_GCKYvi_mPjaIg8RmQWaHbkML6zNE6OeTfDR-En29E6u_feGAVTQ8tK8tuTdsRHFsFw7vGG0a8b4yC6B0DR51/s1600/WC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA_m543OVmNs_6L79rF2io7WK-hw1-fy0lwgMGwoTQg9qTobXMbu2f2F_GCKYvi_mPjaIg8RmQWaHbkML6zNE6OeTfDR-En29E6u_feGAVTQ8tK8tuTdsRHFsFw7vGG0a8b4yC6B0DR51/s1600/WC.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">WC in 'Iolani Palace </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kalakaua was well suited to
govern, as he spoke both Hawaiian and English and made many trips abroad to
other parts of the world. Queen Kap'iolani ruled alongside King Kalakaua.
Unfortunately, Kalakaua was plagued by ill health and died on a trip to the
United States. After his death, his sister, Princess Liliuokalani inherited the
throne and became Hawai’i’s last monarch. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlWexP_oJ9B5jfSUs8vLqlTdGMsVyqZEFGz7Jt2n1J-cbwPfDNXH7K6zdzXlLMk5yfgabaEqqHQ_MQBYE7HwKvKneEJ5PV37qzjNzCE3eEebOSsGZzSPHpN7UBj-E6RGicwgxOclZnXkuV/s1600/Princess+K+and+Queen+L+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlWexP_oJ9B5jfSUs8vLqlTdGMsVyqZEFGz7Jt2n1J-cbwPfDNXH7K6zdzXlLMk5yfgabaEqqHQ_MQBYE7HwKvKneEJ5PV37qzjNzCE3eEebOSsGZzSPHpN7UBj-E6RGicwgxOclZnXkuV/s1600/Princess+K+and+Queen+L+2.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A young Princess Lili'uokalani (left) with Queen Kap'iolani*</span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Source: Personal photograph of a photograph on display at 'Iolani Palace</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Most interesting to me was the story of Queen Liliuokalani. She
believed that Hawai’i should be preserved for native interests and sought to
create a Hawaiian Constitution. However, a group of United States businessman,
aided by the U.S. minister to Hawai’i at the time, John L. Stevens, had their
eye on Hawai’i for economic reasons. They sought to establish sugar and
pineapple plantations in Hawai’i. In 1863, the U.S.S. <i>Boston</i> arrived in Honolulu with the arms to back up their plan to
overthrow the monarchy and seize Hawai’I for themselves. In response to being
overpowered and in order to avoid bloodshed among her people, Queen Liliuokalani
issued her famous proclamation, “The Queen’s Protest,” abdicating her throne
under protest, as a provisional government took over the state. Queen
Liliuokalani was so beloved by her people, that a counter revolt was planned
and failed in 1895. The Queen---who denied knowledge about the plans for an
insurrection---was arrested when a cache of arms was found on the grounds of
her property. Queen Liliuokalani was then held prisoner for eight months in her
own palace (then the seat of the provisional government)!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While the Queen was imprisoned, she and her companion started this quilt:</span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqLl51xCjvsGImJUWT6VWKrRXGNYpjqDSjkT8sJk-mu4O_gWSdEWkCU4-_5VIbId2c91y_EhGczBsa3pipEjpmq5pb5VtRXgHlbLZmf4fYlZnxvt8vR_Xa7w6kdTgH24_43aTEBJWUWoT/s1600/Quilt+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqLl51xCjvsGImJUWT6VWKrRXGNYpjqDSjkT8sJk-mu4O_gWSdEWkCU4-_5VIbId2c91y_EhGczBsa3pipEjpmq5pb5VtRXgHlbLZmf4fYlZnxvt8vR_Xa7w6kdTgH24_43aTEBJWUWoT/s1600/Quilt+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The following inscription was embroidered on the quilt'</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESURrHrvliA4w4td6_i_-o9aGeZfILP-w1HkZqcrRpbPhnHsrO6LrBeHCLEv6ig-JS5M5O64J4AGRWavVJrlTB7l5rgP1nP4zbpiT-4Yw7IZwDAv5eVY3VzJK6M71z6HZDK4kpSJu0EaL/s1600/Quilt+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESURrHrvliA4w4td6_i_-o9aGeZfILP-w1HkZqcrRpbPhnHsrO6LrBeHCLEv6ig-JS5M5O64J4AGRWavVJrlTB7l5rgP1nP4zbpiT-4Yw7IZwDAv5eVY3VzJK6M71z6HZDK4kpSJu0EaL/s1600/Quilt+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"Her majesty Queen Liliuokalani...Imprisoned at Iolani Palace...January 9 (?) 1895...[and her] companion (Companion's name)...Released Sept. 6 1895...We began this quilt there."</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After her release, Liliuokalani appealed to President Cleveland for
reinstatement---and he was sympathetic---but Cleveland’s recommendation that
the monarchy be restored was rejected by Congress. In 1900, Hawaii was annexed
as a territory to the United States. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As a United States citizen, I find this a sad chapter in our
history. The United States basically stole Hawai’i from the Hawaiian people,
(as we had stolen lands and resources from indigenous people on the mainland) and
from a dignified queen who sought to protect her people and---acting out of principles
based in nonviolence---put her faith in political channels to reinstate her
monarchy. In the end, these political channels ultimately failed Queen
Liliuokalani and the Hawaiian people, and it is no surprise that there is an active
<a href="http://www.hawaiianindependence.com/" target="_blank">Hawaiian sovereignty movement </a>today. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDD3AW9rYZpE78cTx63z4CdNF_3hpmhnEfpMN4vMyD4G4nID5dwICa8bcwN_kei7yybtDBOpHmXit7GOqc1zkRdeGe0IEPrUUr6R2bSmlQw2Uvo4vgjyDIEimS1QXiPgnE36COoOVXz4uP/s1600/liliuokalani.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDD3AW9rYZpE78cTx63z4CdNF_3hpmhnEfpMN4vMyD4G4nID5dwICa8bcwN_kei7yybtDBOpHmXit7GOqc1zkRdeGe0IEPrUUr6R2bSmlQw2Uvo4vgjyDIEimS1QXiPgnE36COoOVXz4uP/s1600/liliuokalani.gif" height="400" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Queen Lili'uokalani</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: http://www.nwhm.org/education-resources/biography/biographies/queen-lilioukalani/</span></b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In addition to visiting ‘Iolani
Palace, Patrick and I also visited the
Bishop Museum and the Arizona Memorial.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the Bishop
Museum, we spent our time
in the Hawaiian Hall, the Pacific Hall, and attending a program on celestial
navigation and the Hawaiian star compass in the Planetarium. The Hawaiian Hall
recounted the story of the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy that I had heard
at ‘Iolani Palace, as well as displayed numerous
artifacts typifying Hawaiian culture and natural history. Some of the artifacts
that affected me most were the bird feather capes and drapes made for royalty. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ7ito2usqnieveEztk4lQzNYHrtAoOkci5H-B7_zmDekcap_0W-NfArj4PAtDJa7yFiydFMzghTe84M1Wi1MZoJLNTtpN3eF7vEaJmmfKzb6M3zRP4X2P3rwlRKvr_2ePVd8zZqeMJgn/s1600/Royal+Capes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ7ito2usqnieveEztk4lQzNYHrtAoOkci5H-B7_zmDekcap_0W-NfArj4PAtDJa7yFiydFMzghTe84M1Wi1MZoJLNTtpN3eF7vEaJmmfKzb6M3zRP4X2P3rwlRKvr_2ePVd8zZqeMJgn/s1600/Royal+Capes.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><i>Bird feather capes worn by royalty with feather topped staffs in the background</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A cape like the ones pictured above required the capture of
65,000 to 80,000 birds. A drape that was on exhibit, worn by a female member of the royalty,
required the collection of some 250,000 birds. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The red feathers came from the i’iwi bird, the majority of whose plumage was red. However, the yellow feathers came from the o’o and mamo, whose
plumage was primarily black, with only a small tuft of yellow feathers
available for collection from each bird. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EXex-xCxTZfHJwoMjQ9lhZqtBUovni_5DpfrQVHZq_XCqiq2O8h8SRbLuAq1xh_09dVEdWaCUgiynmlaAE2iVrbOoobUlBAVEdc_2vbelum4KJXPzMc8j7EqD-Tk6awLeEfVdzN8DsDA/s1600/I'iwi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_EXex-xCxTZfHJwoMjQ9lhZqtBUovni_5DpfrQVHZq_XCqiq2O8h8SRbLuAq1xh_09dVEdWaCUgiynmlaAE2iVrbOoobUlBAVEdc_2vbelum4KJXPzMc8j7EqD-Tk6awLeEfVdzN8DsDA/s1600/I'iwi.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I'iwi photo by Chuck Babbitt</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8ArhaxzO43nRA4lB5BRl5JkGBzt65RqYf6OYx7SHpxvpuqi2Q-Mpib5uGVLcLGWq3_H4aFLv8ofm-8SddObbXWw-7nYGr_PvSNKYPv1izOrfky2fFWpyHo7pnZavuZnRzn_kHwxvwhu1/s1600/O'o+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8ArhaxzO43nRA4lB5BRl5JkGBzt65RqYf6OYx7SHpxvpuqi2Q-Mpib5uGVLcLGWq3_H4aFLv8ofm-8SddObbXWw-7nYGr_PvSNKYPv1izOrfky2fFWpyHo7pnZavuZnRzn_kHwxvwhu1/s1600/O'o+2.jpg" height="400" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hawai'i O'o (Source: Wikipedia)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPeLwdaDnMRy_YFzKCHI3nI6ZCgh06TquxAmRTTB8dftIi8jpGd3NMdgLVKKLGsbHpIXHtDRUICM6RbSzE-GjNguumKW9TM9gO8l_kCSLlrM0hVBiuWBF5x9okEClmkD_TQzNzAs7Z0oVi/s1600/O'o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPeLwdaDnMRy_YFzKCHI3nI6ZCgh06TquxAmRTTB8dftIi8jpGd3NMdgLVKKLGsbHpIXHtDRUICM6RbSzE-GjNguumKW9TM9gO8l_kCSLlrM0hVBiuWBF5x9okEClmkD_TQzNzAs7Z0oVi/s1600/O'o.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Kauai O'o (</span></span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: http://birdnote.org/show/song-kauai-oo)</span></b></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLK94WgMcNkgYRaFn_Cw6GRyNMh64UW8ASyR2YvBg30GgTEV70Dyw-WHfVfGVBnko8lJ1jFOrhkfLdRcq8weixIBrWtxAGxfVCpyXch9h_Y392qXy-3_URlkavY66h4-0CuvS1zTaaCgqt/s1600/Mamo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLK94WgMcNkgYRaFn_Cw6GRyNMh64UW8ASyR2YvBg30GgTEV70Dyw-WHfVfGVBnko8lJ1jFOrhkfLdRcq8weixIBrWtxAGxfVCpyXch9h_Y392qXy-3_URlkavY66h4-0CuvS1zTaaCgqt/s1600/Mamo.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mamo (Source: Wikipedia)</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></b> </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I don’t know whether or not the birds
were eaten after their feathers were collected. While habitat loss is cited as the primary reason for the extinction of some of Hawai’i’s native
birds, it is hard to imagine that bird collection did not have some impact. (Both the O'o and mamo are extinct, while the i'iwi is mostly found in rainforest habitat on the slopes of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.) Bird
feathers were also used among the royalty for feather leis, head-dresses, and
feather-topped staffs. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My favorite part of the Bishop Museum was the Pacific Hall.
It had a huge collection of artifacts from all over Oceania, weaving the
history of how the same seafaring people of long distance voyagers settled all
of Polynesia, Micronesia,
and Melanesia. We saw how the same cultural
artifacts---some variation of a voyaging canoe; fish hooks made out of bone,
ivory, wood, and coconut fiber; poi pounders; tattoo art; weavings---were
common to each of the South Pacific islands we had visited and to those that we
hadn’t. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxWwZa4X9pa1VzEH9HGN95L2hZPZ4Sn6zZmf27n_t7vDFSRB-ilndxVL_7GgEolI60ZdKLEcZrVBk-2irzHyE6Devs8vurnsCPU9X0wI-olt1mMHyhlN_vZAPIQtFqC5RMy7Komsp_zap/s1600/Voyaging+canoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxWwZa4X9pa1VzEH9HGN95L2hZPZ4Sn6zZmf27n_t7vDFSRB-ilndxVL_7GgEolI60ZdKLEcZrVBk-2irzHyE6Devs8vurnsCPU9X0wI-olt1mMHyhlN_vZAPIQtFqC5RMy7Komsp_zap/s1600/Voyaging+canoes.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A display case showing models of Polynesian and Micronesian voyaging canoes at the Bishop Museum</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We also saw some interesting artifacts from places we didn’t get a
chance to see, like Vanuatu. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbhvGxoA1W-TeK2lfdAn2Lm-YBg8mCLg9o7gy1bndiMMJ-hBtmjrYws0mBKezPAPTq2t4GHzdu-BjG5zcaMAqoibybTNqLkltR846n8Q2HuXODpC7EOPd8wSs9umpCEMoj5y1yfnWiuu5/s1600/Geneaology+cord.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbhvGxoA1W-TeK2lfdAn2Lm-YBg8mCLg9o7gy1bndiMMJ-hBtmjrYws0mBKezPAPTq2t4GHzdu-BjG5zcaMAqoibybTNqLkltR846n8Q2HuXODpC7EOPd8wSs9umpCEMoj5y1yfnWiuu5/s1600/Geneaology+cord.jpg" height="176" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A genealogy cord from Vanuatu: Each knot in the cord represents a generation and helps you remember your family history as you name them---sort of like saying a prayer for each bead in a rosary </span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwPoUbNKDcH1Cdx68kaumiUC0c1cooqSPjTqwnDC3XF95y9DtGbdXlsci7x_TH0SwZDNDgVGA2FZNY0qSU3921KS7HC3Cx7Zxjomv3fX0sWAG2bXKzKnP7g_anHhSd6iUJEOYWVr_iU0kh/s1600/Spirit+Canoe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwPoUbNKDcH1Cdx68kaumiUC0c1cooqSPjTqwnDC3XF95y9DtGbdXlsci7x_TH0SwZDNDgVGA2FZNY0qSU3921KS7HC3Cx7Zxjomv3fX0sWAG2bXKzKnP7g_anHhSd6iUJEOYWVr_iU0kh/s1600/Spirit+Canoe.jpg" height="148" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A spirit canoe from Vanuatu</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While there are more cultural similarities among the islands of Polynesia, some
of the similarities, such as the voyaging canoes and diet, hold true for all of
Oceania. (Many people still believe that the
sweet potato was brought to Polynesia from the east by South Americans---a
theory espoused by Thor Heyerdahl in his book <i>Kon Tiki</i>---when the sweet potato is a staple in the diet of
islanders as far west as Papua New Guinea. It is now believed that the sweet
potato was brought from west to east across the Pacific in voyaging canoes,
along with breadfruit, taro, and other Polynesian food crops.) Our visit to the
Pacific Hall brought our voyage full circle, reminding me of all the places we
have been and all the amazing things we have seen along the way. It also made
me a little sad, because it reminded me that our South Pacific voyage was
drawing to a close. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our visit to the Planetarium was a good introduction to
celestial navigation using the Hawaiian star compass, and it also solved a mystery
for me. After arriving in Hawaii,
I noticed that many boats were named <i>Hokule'a</i>.
I had intended to look the word up in a native Hawaiian language dictionary but
hadn’t gotten around to it. It turns out that Hokulea is the Hawaiian name for
Arcturus, one of the stars in the constellation Orion that plays a critical
role for long distance voyagers in locating Hawaii. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After Hawai’i was basically usurped by colonial powers, many
Hawaiian customs fell out of daily use. Similar to the experience of native Americans
on the mainland, Hawaiians found that speaking their native language was
frowned upon. Some of the cultural traditions that supported tourism, such as
hula and lei-making, remained alive; but others, such as culturally specific
tattooing practices, and especially, navigation, were in danger of dying out.
During the 1970’s, there was a resurgence of interest by Hawaiians in their
native culture. As part of this resurgence, the <a href="http://www.hokulea.com/" target="_blank">Polynesian Voyaging Society</a> was
founded.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While in Hilo, Patrick and I just stumbled upon a
documentary that was being aired about the maiden voyage of <i>Hokule’a</i>, the voyaging canoe built by
the Polynesian Voyaging Society. The maiden voyage had two goals: first, to teach a new generation of voyagers
traditional methods of navigation, and second, to prove to skeptics that long
distance voyagers had settled the islands of Polynesia
using only the stars, currents, and birds to navigate with. Unfortunately,
there were no Hawaiians still living who knew or remembered the traditional
skills of navigation. So the Voyaging Society enlisted the expertise of Papa
Mau Piailug, a native of the Micronesian island of Satawal. Mau trained a new
generation of Hawaiians in the art of navigation, and their maiden voyage on <i>Hokule’a</i> in 1976---to Tahiti and back
again using only traditional methods of navigation---was a success. After <i>Hokule’a’s</i> first voyage, Papa Mau became
ill and returned to his home island of Satawal. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mau died of complications from diabetes in 2010, but not
before he had witnessed <i>Hokule’a</i>
being brought to the shores of Satawal by a new generation of navigators, led by Nainoa Thompson, to
pay homage to their teacher and mentor. In 2007, the crews of <i>Hokule’a</i> and <i>Alingano Maisu, </i>a double-hulled canoe the Polynesian Voyaging
Society was presenting as a gift to Mau, arrived in Satawal. There, Mau
inducted sixteen voyagers---five of them Polynesian, and one of them, his own
son (who had served as crew on <i>Alingano
Maisu</i>)---into a select group of master navigators known as “Pwo” in
Micronesia. It was the first such induction ceremony held on Salawal in 50
years. Mau could die in peace, knowing that he had passed on his cultural
knowledge. Since then, <i>Hokule’a</i> has
made many voyages throughout the South Pacific, including one to New
Zealand. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">During our stay in Hawaii, <i>Hokule’a</i> was preparing for its first circumnavigation. This time,
the goal of the voyage is not to prove that traditional methods of navigation
work, but it has an international focus intent on promoting sustainability. The
voyage will actually embrace modern technology, as <i>Hokule’a’s</i> sister ship, <i>Hikianalia</i>,
will be traveling along to transmit reports about the voyage in real time. I
forget the name of the publication in which I read that “<i>Hokule’a’s </i>current voyage is not just for Hawaiians, it is for the
world.” While we departed Hawaii before <i>Hokule’a</i>
left on their voyage, those cruisers arriving in Radio Bay fresh from the
Marquesas and other points east were witness to this historic moment. You can
read about the journey at <a href="http://www.hokulea.org/">www.hokulea.org</a>
</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One of the Pow Wow murals that I had seen in Honolulu was this
beautiful portrait of Papa Mau:</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07b519HI9GsCZYHicFDmTWQTSQgSvt1Ua1RNObDBm4JfMwfug1ssfb4ZLdA7a052Mx5q4TfXueoHYtBlgWM705aX-Jkj22B8X2cgJRKcCKMlJGz_82LJA5P6xa_WE2KDeME4XZcrtWhK4/s1600/Papa+Mau+mural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07b519HI9GsCZYHicFDmTWQTSQgSvt1Ua1RNObDBm4JfMwfug1ssfb4ZLdA7a052Mx5q4TfXueoHYtBlgWM705aX-Jkj22B8X2cgJRKcCKMlJGz_82LJA5P6xa_WE2KDeME4XZcrtWhK4/s1600/Papa+Mau+mural.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">"In order to be a navigator, you have to be fierce."</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our visit to Pearl Harbor proved equally educational as the Bishop Museum.
While there are several memorials on the grounds, including the U.S.S.
Missouri, we spent our time at the Arizona Memorial and the World War II
Museum. I thought the museum was very well done, because it presented a
balanced picture of the war, covering both the perspectives of Americans at
home (including Japanese Americans) and of the Japanese.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The technology of the time played a big role in the success
of the attack on Pearl Harbor. At the time,
Pearl Harbor was considered too shallow for an aerial torpedo attack, because
conventional torpedoes would dive nose-down into the bottom. The Japanese had
invented a special kind of finned torpedo, that would level out shortly after
penetrating the surface of the water, and make a beeline to its target. The
U.S.S. Arizona, which sustained the largest loss of life on December 7, 1941,
was sunk by one of these torpedoes when it struck her forward magazine and set
the ship on fire. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqT8vgNqfHzThtWcRdTq9p8XCTYhBjoefFantiC57GYbZ7M-o5aOrNF260Wb-B3EAuS-O98iwQMnjzXp1JP3DzSc_5k3vGC_q2cI0wDT1gHS_yGxEw2EGx3rn8R2_R_QWSxLRc215WT3sR/s1600/Skeleton+of+Japan%27s+secret+weapon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqT8vgNqfHzThtWcRdTq9p8XCTYhBjoefFantiC57GYbZ7M-o5aOrNF260Wb-B3EAuS-O98iwQMnjzXp1JP3DzSc_5k3vGC_q2cI0wDT1gHS_yGxEw2EGx3rn8R2_R_QWSxLRc215WT3sR/s1600/Skeleton+of+Japan's+secret+weapon.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Japan's secret weapon: a recovered torpedo as seen through the glare of a display case</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The attack on Pearl Harbor
also brought to the fore the importance of radar. Radar was a new military tool
at the time, not as sensitive as it is today, and people were not used to
utilizing it. Ironically, the first wave of Japanese bombers to arrive over
Oahu---which effectively disabled the United
State’s ability to respond to the
attack on Pearl Harbor by air by striking the
Air Force bases first---was identified by radar spotters. However, when they
reported their sighting to their superior officers, they were told not to worry
because a squadron of U.S.
planes was expected to arrive from Lewis Air Force Base that same day. If their
sighting had been responded to with an order to put U.S.
planes in the air, Pearl Harbor might have
gone very differently. In hindsight, people realized the powerful role that
radar could play in military defense (and offense).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I didn’t realize until I visited Pearl
Harbor the enormous scope of naval resources---in terms of both
ships and men---that was represented in the Pacific fleet assembled there on
December 7. Of the many ships that were sunk or struck by torpedoes that day,
only three---the U.S.S. Arizona, the U.S.S. Utah, and the U.S.S. Oklahoma---were
never returned to service. Not surprisingly, those three ships sustained the
greatest damage and greatest loss of life. The Arizona and the Utah still lie
on the bottom of Pearl Harbor today, while the wreck of the Oklahoma was
cleared away and some of her equipment salvaged. Work began on salvaging the
other stricken ships almost immediately after the attack on Pearl Harbor, and
several of them, including the U.S.S. West Virginia, were present in Tokyo Bay
for the surrender ceremony on September 2, 1945. (The war actually ended in
April of 1945.) I imagined that must have been an extremely emotional moment for
any remaining crew on the battleships who were present at Pearl Harbor, and I
was moved by its poignancy. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Japanese naval officer who masterminded the sneak attack
on Pearl Harbor was a formidable adversary who had a prescient mind. Yamamoto
Isoroku was quoted in one museum exhibit as stating that Japan would defeat
Americans in any short term attack on Pearl Harbor but would never survive a
long term military engagement with the United States. I also found it very
moving that Yamamotu went about his duty, even though he felt that it was
ultimately doomed to fail. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some museum exhibits contained video footage of ordinary
American and Japanese citizens, explaining how the war affected their lives. On
both sides of the Pacific, people suffered privations, as food and other
necessities were rationed or in short supply. In both countries, women joined
the work force, taking over jobs previously held by men. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The United States had a somewhat schizophrenic relationship
with Japanese Americans during World War II. While many Japanese Americans on
the mainland were placed in internment camps, others fought in the war in all
branches of the U.S. armed forces. Japanese Americans played a critical role as
code breakers in the U.S. war on Asia, due to their Japanese language skills.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some casualties of World War II did not turn up until after
the war was over. Among these was nine year-old leukemia patient Sasaki Sadako,
a victim of radiation from the atomic bomb that went off in Hiroshima when she
was two years old. Cranes are a symbol of long life in Japan, and a Japanese
legend states that anyone who folds 1,000 paper cranes will be granted a wish. While
in the hospital, Sadako folded over 1,000 origami cranes (stories vary), using
medicine wrappers and any paper she could get her hands on. Although Sadako
ultimately died of leukemia, she remains a symbol of the innocent victims of
war and a worldwide symbol for peace. There are statues of Sasaki Sadako in the
Peace Memorial Heritage Park in Hiroshima, Japan, as well as across the ocean
in the Seattle Peace Park, in our home port of Seattle. </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgknH1G01sFt3HV1iZKPxp8562zHtC_tBCGgdkxBs2bCJoqc15T67EynBU3OD0pmgOxA54gdHkWqtFWSfItoQPTe-iZQ0b2dvOzulnEPHjiUTl5vTzr2ONrmO8sxSgwIQKvvECa6SmHSqw/s1600/Sadako+and+her+1,000+cranes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgknH1G01sFt3HV1iZKPxp8562zHtC_tBCGgdkxBs2bCJoqc15T67EynBU3OD0pmgOxA54gdHkWqtFWSfItoQPTe-iZQ0b2dvOzulnEPHjiUTl5vTzr2ONrmO8sxSgwIQKvvECa6SmHSqw/s1600/Sadako+and+her+1,000+cranes.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A photo of Sadako and her father next to a reproduction of Sadako's 1,000 cranes </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Arizona Memorial is a solemn memorial, built above the
watery tomb of the sailors who sacrificed their lives for their country and died
in the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7OvwbUFtEVRYcWrarC99TdC0g_HbQ9dBUSf5M3Xv0Lx42KA3zuSQmGX5DxRActbeSJ8XxuLFYLL-x6pKHZ8t4n0cMWH42Il4igvfo6Yg4Q-x1bPvliXAlRF4yin1rZrYtX8JMESi7dSn/s1600/Arizona+Memorial+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7OvwbUFtEVRYcWrarC99TdC0g_HbQ9dBUSf5M3Xv0Lx42KA3zuSQmGX5DxRActbeSJ8XxuLFYLL-x6pKHZ8t4n0cMWH42Il4igvfo6Yg4Q-x1bPvliXAlRF4yin1rZrYtX8JMESi7dSn/s1600/Arizona+Memorial+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The U.S.S. Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrKxXVWZYxHL2jfSJuUgSEMbFta5v2KLoxoT00WWj-txyaYp3ajKULkOxSzLjwMRgFl0kRh4aq6j_h4oSHaA_AcvaAakJqxgstlkcRiKI7bhRo_3Jpm2us_xHlDXFpBqfIJ45TRdDYBED/s1600/Arizona+tower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrKxXVWZYxHL2jfSJuUgSEMbFta5v2KLoxoT00WWj-txyaYp3ajKULkOxSzLjwMRgFl0kRh4aq6j_h4oSHaA_AcvaAakJqxgstlkcRiKI7bhRo_3Jpm2us_xHlDXFpBqfIJ45TRdDYBED/s1600/Arizona+tower.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The former tower of the Arizona marks the location of the wreck</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrftQ5UuTQeYNn4jr4rcQoLdUAzZbI19zM2XZbRovDdb2Ei4yXLm2D-2I6keUxF06_-MKnni9LWxFDSUngY2pkDZ2Y3YfdRIWAHTyE4gbMb0xCoRp4bm2ljD9D7GoVmzcpkJvyClWkrZW/s1600/Oil+jelly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrftQ5UuTQeYNn4jr4rcQoLdUAzZbI19zM2XZbRovDdb2Ei4yXLm2D-2I6keUxF06_-MKnni9LWxFDSUngY2pkDZ2Y3YfdRIWAHTyE4gbMb0xCoRp4bm2ljD9D7GoVmzcpkJvyClWkrZW/s1600/Oil+jelly.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Oil or fuel seeps still float from the wreck like ghoulish jellyfish</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZdpKkwmyXfrPxucVpM6EOp_rl62JNenA17QfIsITXPGlJ87y6wTfKZ4zL2_SIlQyfuCY_rn1q5nBOwWolXqDzfIbVbU3fZrxwN6pM6ZPrhjtMRXSKM1CtZ1JMEvloGwFj9qet210dmVGR/s1600/Arizona+Memorial+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZdpKkwmyXfrPxucVpM6EOp_rl62JNenA17QfIsITXPGlJ87y6wTfKZ4zL2_SIlQyfuCY_rn1q5nBOwWolXqDzfIbVbU3fZrxwN6pM6ZPrhjtMRXSKM1CtZ1JMEvloGwFj9qet210dmVGR/s1600/Arizona+Memorial+Wall.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The names of the lost</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Former crew members who survived the attack have the option
of having their remains interred with their crew, and many have chosen to do
this. The plaque below honors those who have. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuhr1Occ5YXfZhdTlIPRmFJ94pqrSZ0IwBzg1sr-kOoWOiDtaphxKPxx7F_lQ16k3GPbKINuO2nzzVZf4ptDNT_2IuDC8NwAo8QKz7xP_Bgv-Y40P7JeRpGwUGZ2_Vu88f7DALhmf9X4m/s1600/Crew+Mates.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuhr1Occ5YXfZhdTlIPRmFJ94pqrSZ0IwBzg1sr-kOoWOiDtaphxKPxx7F_lQ16k3GPbKINuO2nzzVZf4ptDNT_2IuDC8NwAo8QKz7xP_Bgv-Y40P7JeRpGwUGZ2_Vu88f7DALhmf9X4m/s1600/Crew+Mates.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Shipmates in life and death </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sources:</span></span></b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The primary sources for the information in this blog post were:</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Audio Tour, 'Iolani Palace</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Interpretive signage, Bishop Museum </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Documentary: <i>Papa Mau: The Wayfinder</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Interpretive signage, World War II Museum, Pearl Harbor<i> </i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also used the following web sites to check/verify some dates and names:</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i> <a href="http://www.uic.edu/depts/owa/history/liliuokalani.html">http://www.uic.edu/depts/owa/history/liliuokalani.html</a></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><a href="http://www.nwhm.org/education-resources/biography/biographies/queen-lilioukalani/" target="_blank">http://www.nwhm.org/education-resources/biography/biographies/queen-lilioukalani/</a></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/queen-liliuokalani/" target="_blank"><i>http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/queen-liliuokalani/</i></a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.mauna-a-wakea.info/maunakea/K_link4.html"><i>http://www.mauna-a-wakea.info/maunakea/K_link4.html</i></a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/queen-liliuokalani/" target="_blank"><i><br /></i></a>
<a href="http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/queen-liliuokalani/" target="_blank"><i>http://archives.starbulletin.com/2007/03/18/news/story04.html</i></a></span></span>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sources for images that are not original photos are noted with the image. <i> </i> </span></span><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></b></div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-46756347760489847552014-06-13T10:20:00.000-07:002014-06-21T18:50:16.803-07:00Aloha to the Aloha State<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<h4>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">February 18-May 14, 2014</span></span></h4>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Five months after arriving in Hawai'i,
we left the islands to make the last long passage of our three-year journey: Kane'ohe Bay, Hawai'i to Sitka,
Alaska. We gave up our plans to
visit the island
of Kauai before we left.
We had spent too long in Honolulu and now a
weather window for our passage to the Pacific Northwest
was starting to present itself. We also wanted to maximize the amount of time
we spent in southeast Alaska and British Columbia before returning to our home in Seattle at the beginning
of September. Reluctantly, we left exploring Kauai
for a future trip. (It’s always nice to have a reason to go back to Hawaii.)</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We spent most of our last three months in Hawai'i
in the Ala Wai Marina, in the heart of Waikiki, on the island of Oahu.
It’s funny how quickly you become accustomed to a new home base and how your
everyday surroundings don’t seem that noteworthy, because I have very few
pictures of Ala Wai or our time there. I have a store of mental images of Ala
Wai though: the classic Royal Ensfield
motorcycle I used to pass on my way to the head in the morning (whose
considerate owner put a rug underneath to sop up oil drips); the painted
hibiscus flower graffiti on the dumpsters; the depressing amount of plastic,
floatable garbage in the harbor and how only one liveaboard ever bothered to clean
it up from around his boat; the patient grandfather fishing off the wharf
almost daily with his mentally challenged grandson; the resident porcupine
puffer fish, barracuda, spotted eagle ray, and box fish that hung out in the
marina; and the diverse collection of boats---some stowed and tidy with their
lines coiled neatly as fern fiddleheads on the dock; others, with so much
clutter hanging off them or stashed in adjoining dinghies like suburban garages,
you wondered when was the last time they were underway. And last but not least,
I remember the hapless doves wandering all over the docks and parking
lots that were a miracle of evolution, because they managed to survive, despite
being either so fearless or so stupid, that you had to be careful not to step
on them. </span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Their habit of spending time on the ground makes me want to call them ground doves, but I think these birds may have been zebra doves. I didn't get any shots of the doves at the marina, but I got a couple of photos of them elsewhere around town:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6B0muvWahxW9JG_XEY9LBeyns9_CFu005rw5RWnc8i5uNGlcnzyYveRy2m7u_6Ggls5xhyphenhyphenrBkNIvCTacu0jH8NDy1_rry5I08yV8_h66jplETfm3zNGuYBf3NcrwNRsEeWURo-apUsz68/s1600/Ground+doves+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6B0muvWahxW9JG_XEY9LBeyns9_CFu005rw5RWnc8i5uNGlcnzyYveRy2m7u_6Ggls5xhyphenhyphenrBkNIvCTacu0jH8NDy1_rry5I08yV8_h66jplETfm3zNGuYBf3NcrwNRsEeWURo-apUsz68/s1600/Ground+doves+1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Evolution's sweethearts</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgqHxGMfrndvQ3bOsYR66bpuo8fRAu42ye15mJ5Fg5eBVHbVrYj1yqx4AvvQRGPpL8_g8TIhY2v7XlQLHIPJh0lPcLMxps5F2gYhyGwrmbYjQJLlJLvIwH5TIWn5N1En8i77fDaeTdNAVN/s1600/Ground+dove+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgqHxGMfrndvQ3bOsYR66bpuo8fRAu42ye15mJ5Fg5eBVHbVrYj1yqx4AvvQRGPpL8_g8TIhY2v7XlQLHIPJh0lPcLMxps5F2gYhyGwrmbYjQJLlJLvIwH5TIWn5N1En8i77fDaeTdNAVN/s1600/Ground+dove+2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Talk about a taxi stand!</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some other random shots from Waikiki appear below:</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgH3QLQOd_bgZeqpZ3Os-R4YCIrjbMK9UGyac19hqnVpKkiN4gphSI-RhCOE3Qi0CYsuSKSNkajb6hyVQ4kU_xi1bySGemmEc6o6jZ7rkkajEMWF8M-arzgd4ki-y8_kBDWiEj43tb8Mkj/s1600/Diamond+Head+and+Waikiki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgH3QLQOd_bgZeqpZ3Os-R4YCIrjbMK9UGyac19hqnVpKkiN4gphSI-RhCOE3Qi0CYsuSKSNkajb6hyVQ4kU_xi1bySGemmEc6o6jZ7rkkajEMWF8M-arzgd4ki-y8_kBDWiEj43tb8Mkj/s1600/Diamond+Head+and+Waikiki.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A classic shot of Diamond Head, Waikiki, and surfers, with Kewalo Basin channel buoy in foreground</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9ZmEUNvDPo-_vBLeiLnGtvmmIYCf8bN3sm7xZ8wvcqS0bRZ6sxN6FBVA2cSFMyyts4EcYlClPuBQDqYp0ei3QDTjt-vsFsvXk2fX2P08XXBGQyhwHX5NpKNJviW5UMDDjNsvF0r39fLS/s1600/Ala+Moana+Canal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9ZmEUNvDPo-_vBLeiLnGtvmmIYCf8bN3sm7xZ8wvcqS0bRZ6sxN6FBVA2cSFMyyts4EcYlClPuBQDqYp0ei3QDTjt-vsFsvXk2fX2P08XXBGQyhwHX5NpKNJviW5UMDDjNsvF0r39fLS/s1600/Ala+Moana+Canal.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Ala Moana Canal runs through downtown Waikiki</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEc0aSiqWBcUUOP4QHeaJre8vuaNb2lxTDGGJ1i4QfNuw98fBGOxpuQUFyTPXMbdaxpltArlzJyV5h2PL1AMy1A-i89yF2xL7M4nabCdUikk0Y3C0BEPt_awwhM8lIOl4LacNs6T48lvxp/s1600/Trash+boom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEc0aSiqWBcUUOP4QHeaJre8vuaNb2lxTDGGJ1i4QfNuw98fBGOxpuQUFyTPXMbdaxpltArlzJyV5h2PL1AMy1A-i89yF2xL7M4nabCdUikk0Y3C0BEPt_awwhM8lIOl4LacNs6T48lvxp/s1600/Trash+boom.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This trash boom theoretically collects plastic garbage from the Ala Moana Canal and prevents it from going into the open ocean: We never saw it being emptied</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16eqR0wjoSG5M1nKpRfsCLQrxnK8QufuWNidgmMHLeQIuQRBPCW2y4xSUOhuuxc0mMsvKmjIU6-alVx5N8wdUVaPIh1_2eVqZhlTLbZkou3NUuDy8S-N5nBg0lzXiqu18ZwaQt84yVqv4/s1600/Water+access.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16eqR0wjoSG5M1nKpRfsCLQrxnK8QufuWNidgmMHLeQIuQRBPCW2y4xSUOhuuxc0mMsvKmjIU6-alVx5N8wdUVaPIh1_2eVqZhlTLbZkou3NUuDy8S-N5nBg0lzXiqu18ZwaQt84yVqv4/s1600/Water+access.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A nicely landscaped water main access</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi123Oc9GZR6co7_Dd4VPuBxp2twsnQYD41piqT_GGs2u_84YHiyDErG9Ocr8GhKunh57O2kcng24WYlM7Ky_ktPJM6Wn7o0rOs3oMqXUOP9Ymfxc4Q0FqDQMfYltrLR5VRs8P-iIX0CTQ1/s1600/Yellow-billed+cardinal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi123Oc9GZR6co7_Dd4VPuBxp2twsnQYD41piqT_GGs2u_84YHiyDErG9Ocr8GhKunh57O2kcng24WYlM7Ky_ktPJM6Wn7o0rOs3oMqXUOP9Ymfxc4Q0FqDQMfYltrLR5VRs8P-iIX0CTQ1/s1600/Yellow-billed+cardinal.jpg" height="251" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A yellow billed cardinal</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When we first arrived at Ala Wai, it was a very social time
for us. We had happy reunions, catching up and sharing stories with most of the
boats we had spent the end of last year’s cruising season with (exploring
Penrhyn, Christmas, and Fanning atolls):
<i>Silhouette</i> Texas,
<i>Irie II</i>, and <i>Just Drifting</i>. A month after we arrived, the crew of <i>Saliander</i>
also returned from their trip home to New Zealand. All of them had made their
initial landfall on Oahu, while we made landfall on the Big Island.
We were also glad to join up with the crew of <i>Amandla</i> again---whom we met on
the Big Island,
but who departed Radio Bay for Honolulu
ahead of us. Although we were in downtown Waikiki---the tourist mecca of Honolulu---with any number
of upscale bars and restaurants to explore, we socialized much the same way we
always did at anchor: gathering on each others’ boats or frequenting the low
key pubs around the harbor. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTsuaUOqMsDXbmi1GJpE1W2DS-I4LFIwVS5-H-rkElY9dzwPTaNVv-lQ961xAutDYyyGQeq_vrjAQnRoWZvRek_ws42dQseH0k7nvECZIRFAanb-bDoOhhSecUq9RVMafKkQXiAWNvyRK/s1600/Shaka+Al.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTsuaUOqMsDXbmi1GJpE1W2DS-I4LFIwVS5-H-rkElY9dzwPTaNVv-lQ961xAutDYyyGQeq_vrjAQnRoWZvRek_ws42dQseH0k7nvECZIRFAanb-bDoOhhSecUq9RVMafKkQXiAWNvyRK/s1600/Shaka+Al.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Al gives the shaka sign from up the mast...</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINK6zZJRVtP7Q5CfHHGBWUt5eLPBUWcgGwSCRWq2Q_sXr6FCsvHGZ48kt1Yyiy83AzjSsLQjWYo2ilrFMF5gFeYgfTjUEzPV7-sUovNWSFLPEdLSgj8vsZwqFULT0eviYG_xrR8JuYHYI/s1600/Supervisor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINK6zZJRVtP7Q5CfHHGBWUt5eLPBUWcgGwSCRWq2Q_sXr6FCsvHGZ48kt1Yyiy83AzjSsLQjWYo2ilrFMF5gFeYgfTjUEzPV7-sUovNWSFLPEdLSgj8vsZwqFULT0eviYG_xrR8JuYHYI/s1600/Supervisor.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">....while brother Phil watches from the cabin top</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our favorite hangout near Ala Wai had the same name (different spelling) as
Patrick’s favorite hangout on Bainbridge
Island: Harbor Pub. Although it was in downtown Waikiki, its regular customers were locals. It was a
“Cheers” kind of place, “where everybody knows your name.” They looked
after their own, holding a fundraiser for a neighbor who was mugged, or
all pitching in to cover shifts for a bartender who seriously injured his
shoulder. We liked its friendly vibe immediately. The pizza and nachos were
good, the drinks were cheap at happy hour, and the Harbor Pub used any
excuse to hold a party. They also had an amazing band, which played on Thursday
nights. I don’t know the name of the band, but it was anchored by Andy, an
exceptionally talented musician. He played many instruments but excelled on the
ukulele and the sax, leading the bands in tunes that varied from traditional
Hawaiian music to jazz to rhythm and blues. It had been a long time, but I cut
a rug in Honolulu!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbkX-OJbDqgBEr0iwuJJzfnoteGzYu28E22mnEtT_V8YAa_hugNj8Dz6PKGHRyUk_k5lcOI1LNudA3I3LHJxeCttPErrP84a0xgYXFcLUKM8UeSUI9L8FcTo2yz_xrji9MAUHqRve511l/s1600/Beer+thirty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbkX-OJbDqgBEr0iwuJJzfnoteGzYu28E22mnEtT_V8YAa_hugNj8Dz6PKGHRyUk_k5lcOI1LNudA3I3LHJxeCttPErrP84a0xgYXFcLUKM8UeSUI9L8FcTo2yz_xrji9MAUHqRve511l/s1600/Beer+thirty.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Beer-thirty</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another place we went to for happy hour was the Ilikai Hotel. It was a nice change from the Harbor Pub because you could sit outdoors. We also enjoyed hearing the pu being blown. (The "u" in that word should have a long vowel sound symbol over it, pronounce "poo.") A pu is typically made from the shell of a horned helmet or a triton snail. The blowing of the pu can symbolize a variety of things; but in this case, it represented greeting the sunset and saying goodbye and thank you for the day. The man who performed this ceremony at the Ilikai had been blowing the pu for 50 years.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6CKaa5k5cn97zB7VA8mE_HG_dBK7N5ha76h8T2rt7yLQMjU1YsWFrLTF-sm3nib_T9FvjPa58NGCoklACCy24TWjii-Au4v70OGTNGfM5SD8LNYAzXWOjIJKRDCTJ1wH0j5huInw5dWM/s1600/Blowing+the+Pu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6CKaa5k5cn97zB7VA8mE_HG_dBK7N5ha76h8T2rt7yLQMjU1YsWFrLTF-sm3nib_T9FvjPa58NGCoklACCy24TWjii-Au4v70OGTNGfM5SD8LNYAzXWOjIJKRDCTJ1wH0j5huInw5dWM/s1600/Blowing+the+Pu.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blowing the pu</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The first week I was at Ala Wai, I met Rhoda Green, a
resident of Kirkland, Washington
(near my home in Seattle).
Rhoda is a certified dive instructor who was in Honolulu for a dive vacation and to visit Al
on<i> Irie II</i>. She and I did a lot of snorkeling on the coral reefs around the
marina. We visited the reefs off Waikiki, Magic Island,
and Turtle Reef. Most of the habitat in these areas was degraded coral rubble,
but there were still a lot of things to see. Spotted morays inhabited the
crevices in the rubble, giant porcupine puffers trundled along, spotted eagle
rays flew over the ocean floor, and every now and then, we’d be surprised by
one of Hawai'i’s
huge sea turtles. There weren’t many colorful reef fish in these areas, but
when we swam out to one of the dive spots, called “Kaiser,” we were surrounded
by clouds of black triggerfish and unicornfish. The fish were very tame and
swam along with us, making me wonder if the charter boats that brought divers
out there fed them? Rhoda and I even explored some of the manmade lagoons in
the area for life. In one of these, we saw a very cool animal: the upside-down jellyfish. True to its name,
this jellyfish sat on the sandy bottom of the lagoon upside-down, looking very
much like an exotic flower. Unlike most jellyfish, it seldom pulsed along
through the water column. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I wasn’t used to snorkeling in the surge and waves typical
of Oahu, so I focused on swimming and didn’t
bring my camera on our snorkeling expeditions. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My friend Lisa (SV <i>Amandla</i>) and I spent an interesting
morning wandering the streets and alleys of a neighborhood in which some of Honolulu’s best graffiti
art is found. Lisa had wanted to photograph it, and I was so impressed, I went
back later on my own to take some photos too. The graffiti art was part of a street
art project called “<a href="http://powwowhawaii.com/about-pow-wow-hawaii/" target="_blank">Pow Wow</a>,” in which street artists are given license to
create on the walls of certain properties. The art is left up for one year and
is then painted over with new designs. In this way, the street art that we saw
is more ephemeral than most, and we preserved it in our photographs. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(If you like what you see below, check out the archives on the Pow Wow web site for more art.) </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxzO0d54cPRrgkLKi6Th6t81Hn8-22q90FuY2a0apYypUgQrM0jYoRwr0kDwo24T_6dKiazhIWdWzyznRgJZNGGyuiLDUd1IePkTplHoL7iI4CTSOBS6gWQyrcDOu8c1CVmxu1riuc31GS/s1600/Graffiti+art+mural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxzO0d54cPRrgkLKi6Th6t81Hn8-22q90FuY2a0apYypUgQrM0jYoRwr0kDwo24T_6dKiazhIWdWzyznRgJZNGGyuiLDUd1IePkTplHoL7iI4CTSOBS6gWQyrcDOu8c1CVmxu1riuc31GS/s1600/Graffiti+art+mural.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglyBZrgjAAWHdnjQJzed2HDv7_1OP-KMb0msY-AIEYHai1AEeMzB9lwSwNUS_tOsOlBa6cgCMR4gF-w7071eOycAHSPHPGRYFp0vnrIRLd2vXSaaTwrWjPuwHKhv2PGvWVT20EYUNGf1o4/s1600/Graffit+art+mural+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglyBZrgjAAWHdnjQJzed2HDv7_1OP-KMb0msY-AIEYHai1AEeMzB9lwSwNUS_tOsOlBa6cgCMR4gF-w7071eOycAHSPHPGRYFp0vnrIRLd2vXSaaTwrWjPuwHKhv2PGvWVT20EYUNGf1o4/s1600/Graffit+art+mural+2.jpg" height="271" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The street art themes varied from sustainability to the darker sides of city life. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4mgoamybCu361GlFk_ctS_GmEN-duyUACGy65w_fG8a9t1RUNMJO-JdPdazCnU-Tq0kLA1U2duQjzUADkAD3Uzz4y69wRJglN0kW-TKW5h-fcogWILQFJnlaleap7HF_6MQEqPJ6go8x/s1600/Whole+world+in+his+hands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4mgoamybCu361GlFk_ctS_GmEN-duyUACGy65w_fG8a9t1RUNMJO-JdPdazCnU-Tq0kLA1U2duQjzUADkAD3Uzz4y69wRJglN0kW-TKW5h-fcogWILQFJnlaleap7HF_6MQEqPJ6go8x/s1600/Whole+world+in+his+hands.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"He's got the whole world in his hands"</span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The above image was very powerful to me, because of the two parts of the person's body that are missing: the absent head and the decapitated feet. The person is sitting astride a pig ("gas hog"), whose silhouette is filled with the images of junked cars. In his hands, of course, the human figure</span></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">is spinning a globe. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzu1e0bfFNkwz6mi8uoX0lb_8vI6P1Bpjq5n-H8abGu52i6PCXbzkc1WTtxGLaNDmtuw21rBcIvQIfH1ZhkfeJc64sHLd6FaDhWBMNm90zqx89N4xkgzBcqpnfqr90WFQQts1CfDsjK61/s1600/Burn+fat+not+oil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzu1e0bfFNkwz6mi8uoX0lb_8vI6P1Bpjq5n-H8abGu52i6PCXbzkc1WTtxGLaNDmtuw21rBcIvQIfH1ZhkfeJc64sHLd6FaDhWBMNm90zqx89N4xkgzBcqpnfqr90WFQQts1CfDsjK61/s1600/Burn+fat+not+oil.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some local businesses also got into the spirit of the Pow Wow project</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZUC0iPx5KV_gp2AcNiabgs6EJFogHMnAvrCPKZ4t8qyUbpeQ-TaKFw1K0cK6Oa84fDki5CKV27YW15YWSeYnzgMft2IdmTBPZHINv_E8VkpbgR4L1T_KwQ98XwGXD81opHScPl7oiHLr/s1600/City+life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZUC0iPx5KV_gp2AcNiabgs6EJFogHMnAvrCPKZ4t8qyUbpeQ-TaKFw1K0cK6Oa84fDki5CKV27YW15YWSeYnzgMft2IdmTBPZHINv_E8VkpbgR4L1T_KwQ98XwGXD81opHScPl7oiHLr/s1600/City+life.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">City life</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFio7RuLGScgKyqlxPuEia1ayDLylBo18g04wYqWvJs5C3tn7yLTqo0TVH1GtIy1BICTKoEIe_lsp3cHcTyqrt7uFff77DLAJGwyfPJFOCFAXlxAqcXZSJkBQny4rE4kyHrJoamljWEHvk/s1600/Rat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFio7RuLGScgKyqlxPuEia1ayDLylBo18g04wYqWvJs5C3tn7yLTqo0TVH1GtIy1BICTKoEIe_lsp3cHcTyqrt7uFff77DLAJGwyfPJFOCFAXlxAqcXZSJkBQny4rE4kyHrJoamljWEHvk/s1600/Rat.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A detail from a much larger mural</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My favorite images were of the Polynesian people:</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBSc_upSqNkIBYBj9pDiC4SutKOYrWCagcqfAU05LzT_gH4nqzqqBRznzGma3Ucm4uZS4CKfFazwjw7HSInbWK0Nv4uXBPvLExv1FHxUcwtwKBuPmYrFHhVQom5xYp7Hyyy8gDHDbi88j/s1600/Polynesian+in+scarfititi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBSc_upSqNkIBYBj9pDiC4SutKOYrWCagcqfAU05LzT_gH4nqzqqBRznzGma3Ucm4uZS4CKfFazwjw7HSInbWK0Nv4uXBPvLExv1FHxUcwtwKBuPmYrFHhVQom5xYp7Hyyy8gDHDbi88j/s1600/Polynesian+in+scarfititi.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The beige areas in this image were actually created by gouging away the white paint and some of the underlying brick: an amazing piece of artwork</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKICp8zn_mn6zo_9cNXIJQQwKOYr29elXx4cjnF6THzkDlNnjSM_1-Q1opn6cfze8Waf2Nw_4c6ND8eNPOdJvH07Qc-aN5aS8Zu0KD34VsN6oxwsEkoUtmHIh5eBn0lYBH3mfT-AxUIMc/s1600/Ancestors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKICp8zn_mn6zo_9cNXIJQQwKOYr29elXx4cjnF6THzkDlNnjSM_1-Q1opn6cfze8Waf2Nw_4c6ND8eNPOdJvH07Qc-aN5aS8Zu0KD34VsN6oxwsEkoUtmHIh5eBn0lYBH3mfT-AxUIMc/s1600/Ancestors.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Notice the real plant (in the gray pot) incorporated into this mural</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhON_jA5wTFT3zUUkNdnouwC0zLje1OjWP00p53xkDkaQHNvOdycNifvhrLW1uSr8rmJl4oZHgTcJn8sB4as3E3t1Dz0v2UpolQMCq4ZquFsPgaexDT-qu4QOqNgcPXHmXQSACOIKKJpEfe/s1600/Hawaiians.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhON_jA5wTFT3zUUkNdnouwC0zLje1OjWP00p53xkDkaQHNvOdycNifvhrLW1uSr8rmJl4oZHgTcJn8sB4as3E3t1Dz0v2UpolQMCq4ZquFsPgaexDT-qu4QOqNgcPXHmXQSACOIKKJpEfe/s1600/Hawaiians.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Strong men</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some of the murals were just whimsical:</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmbsBrkTN0KX7_p0KdVK4f8hee5GhEvKrMl7vKVKUVO4VOVFS_m8CN2gLfeUlT6f2M2x2VWj2406LyYNoJD-jxlWKxmcx2oA_Hp3J-8j2NdiUrFOfFB-oMue1Fx7KiwMMHkHAumQPmGaZ/s1600/Hula+girl.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmbsBrkTN0KX7_p0KdVK4f8hee5GhEvKrMl7vKVKUVO4VOVFS_m8CN2gLfeUlT6f2M2x2VWj2406LyYNoJD-jxlWKxmcx2oA_Hp3J-8j2NdiUrFOfFB-oMue1Fx7KiwMMHkHAumQPmGaZ/s1600/Hula+girl.jpeg" height="320" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hula girl: Photo courtesy of Lisa Dorenfest</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These fun excursions with Rhoda and Lisa were my
introduction to the Honolulu
area. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">First and foremost though, we and all our fellow cruisers
were at Ala Wai Marina for the same reason---to work on our boats---and as the
weeks passed and a new cruising season approached, the project work
intensified. We had completed two of our major projects in Radio Bay: welding the broken shaft for the water paddle
of the wind vane and replacing our house battery bank.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In Honolulu,
Patrick plugged away on a variety of projects, including having a new end
fitting swaged on a damaged lifeline and removing the plastic coating from the
cockpit lifelines to inspect those. He replaced the engine start battery and
installed a new VHF radio. Meanwhile, I treated and flushed our fresh water
system and prepped and sealed the pinrails, whose varnish had splintered down
to bare wood in the tropical sun. I also began renewing all of the exterior
varnish, beginning with the cockpit coaming and handrails. Together, we
end-for-ended and remarked the anchor rode, and Patrick replaced the link
connecting two sections of chain together. Patrick also completed a variety of other
electrical and plumbing projects.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The first month in the marina slid easily by. Then, I flew
to San Diego
for two weeks to visit my mother, while Patrick attended to some of the boat
projects more disruptive to our living space. These included stripping,
sanding, and painting the head; installing an engine cabin heater (that
utilizes the hot water from the engine to heat the cabin when motoring); and
investigating some venting issues with our water tanks. He also began our third
major project, recaulking <i>Silhouette’s</i> deck-to-hull joint. We had found that
the deck-to-hull joint had been leaking on our upwind passage from New Zealand.
This made the inside of the hull damp, and we found moisture in some of our
storage cubbies. While a long term fix would require removing the caprails and
glassing over the joint, that was something we did not want to attempt while
underway. Instead, Patrick removed the trim under the caprail and recaulked the
joint. He then had to replace the trim and touch up the paint. Patrick tackled the
port side first, since our passage to Alaska,
like the one from New
Zealand, would be mostly on a starboard
tack.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When I returned from San
Diego, Patrick and I used hand lines to turn the boat
around so that he could complete caulking the deck-to-hull joint on the
starboard side. I continued with prepping and varnishing the port caprail and
bowsprit. Patrick gave me a spell from varnishing by doing the starboard rail
and our home port and name boards (which we hadn’t touched since we left Seattle in 2011). I
refreshed the paint on the boards after Patrick had varnished them, and they
are once again looking sharp. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">During this time, waves of cruising boats began to leave the
marina, and one by one, we said goodbye to our friends. First, the boats
returning to French Polynesia left, and then a
small flotilla of boats heading north departed. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Before we left Ala Wai, Patrick climbed the mast and
replaced our old tricolor navigation light with a new LED tricolor light. The
new light is both brighter and draws less power. He also repaired a loose
spreader base and did a rig inspection. The rig inspection revealed that the
jacket of our jib halliard had chafed through. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21k60brdBfprtOj2ggKKuT6ssuoJDSJT1QiRA9gwKMtE826mY1dKhKXg9lACYq4ldlhWemVgAgrQOPUA37NfzwXNT4lPL_RwGF0wDagkeK4i252EN2DzYYQywyv0tB-77ovM2uzWNr-JM/s1600/Halyard+chafe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21k60brdBfprtOj2ggKKuT6ssuoJDSJT1QiRA9gwKMtE826mY1dKhKXg9lACYq4ldlhWemVgAgrQOPUA37NfzwXNT4lPL_RwGF0wDagkeK4i252EN2DzYYQywyv0tB-77ovM2uzWNr-JM/s1600/Halyard+chafe.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The core of this halliard probably would have chafed through between Oahu and Sitka if Patrick hadn't caught it</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Down came the sail; we end-for
ended the line, cut off the bad section, and I made a new eye spice for the new
working end of the halliard. I also scrubbed our dinghy (which had a new coat
of hard growth on the bottom from the caulking and painting project), and we
packed it up for travel. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After our major projects were complete, we rented a car for
a week in order to reprovision. We used the car to haul diesel, gas, propane,
extra loads of laundry, and groceries to the boat. We made trips to Costco,
Safeway, and Don Quijote (that’s how the store’s name was spelled) for
provisions. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Don Quijote was my favorite store in Honolulu. The cheapest grocery store within
walking distance of the Ala Wai Marina, it carried a huge selection of both
Asian and American brands. There, you could find specialty ingredients such as
gyoza wrappers, dried fish and squid, dried seaweed and shitake, a dozen brands
of tofu, ramen, soba, udon, and rice noodle, and every kind of sauce imaginable.
An “everything” store, Don Quijote also sold housewares, toiletries, liquor, and
some clothing, and it contained a small hardware section that, more often than
not, surprised us by having exactly what we needed. The other grocery stores
within walking distance of Ala Wai Marina are Foodland, in the Ala Moana
Center, and Food Pantry,
at Eaton Square.
There is also an “ABC Store” (convenience store) on just about every corner. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While we had the car, we also drove to Kane'ohe Bay
to check out the anchorage and have dinner with our new friend, Karen Helmeyer,
who had been introduced to us by other cruising friends. We also managed to do
some sightseeing. I’ll cover our visits to the Bishop Museum
and the Arizona Memorial in a separate post to keep this one from becoming
monstrously long. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Before we departed Oahu, we moved the boat around to Kane'ohe Bay on the north shore. We enjoyed very
much this scenic respite from the Ala Wai Marina and Honolulu Harbor.
You don’t realize how noisy a marina in the city is until you leave it and go
to an anchorage. At Kane'ohe
Bay, we had mostly peace
and quiet, although it was interrupted at certain times of day by noisy military
flyovers. (There is a Marine Corps Air Base nearby.) The water was much cleaner and
much clearer than in Honolulu
Harbor, and the coral
reefs were healthy. A large sea turtle made its appearance frequently about the
boat. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgLLPJ936kKT6pC-pzCrjPFymnadGT1UEZpD_5Pf3niUSubvkHdTGBWaM7zZvy2FDQs8Z9cXgmgxH_Lx2vk8ltT10OgEr2ZckcI966QzOiGNKBDEUE5j-i1jKFTneIgXlNKULJeWgiOFh/s1600/Anchorage+at+Kaneohe+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgLLPJ936kKT6pC-pzCrjPFymnadGT1UEZpD_5Pf3niUSubvkHdTGBWaM7zZvy2FDQs8Z9cXgmgxH_Lx2vk8ltT10OgEr2ZckcI966QzOiGNKBDEUE5j-i1jKFTneIgXlNKULJeWgiOFh/s1600/Anchorage+at+Kaneohe+Bay.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The anchorage near the sand bar at Kane'ohe Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTaxJtVAVAd8olz6Dfz1tqH7a3QM9Xw9RK3s2GYeEz4USvc6xF4q0H9k8Ktk83ehl4VsArDZdrhSvwCQV9vOiqItgruB2niHN0XVtzmULSDBgy53yml8BjK1K7a76JgHeLaRprUY-7Jg6/s1600/The+pali+and+the+Pali.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTaxJtVAVAd8olz6Dfz1tqH7a3QM9Xw9RK3s2GYeEz4USvc6xF4q0H9k8Ktk83ehl4VsArDZdrhSvwCQV9vOiqItgruB2niHN0XVtzmULSDBgy53yml8BjK1K7a76JgHeLaRprUY-7Jg6/s1600/The+pali+and+the+Pali.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A view of the Pali highway and of downtown Kane'ohe</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Unfortunately, it started blowing after our second day
there, and we didn’t get to take full advantage of our setting. Regretfully, I
never got in my last snorkel on Oahu. We also
didn’t get to visit the popular sand bar in Kane'ohe Bay.
Local sailors we met in Honolulu
told us you could “belly up to the bar” and drop your anchor in the sand bar.
It has a steep drop off, and your keel would not touch bottom. Of course, it
was necessary to set a stern anchor in case the wind shifted so you didn’t get
blown around onto the bar. The bar is a popular snorkeling and dive site, and
hammerhead sharks can be seen there. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I did get in the water at Kane'ohe while it was still calm enough to get
our prop clean, which required an hour and a half of hard labor. After three
months in Ala Wai Marina, some kind of crystalline marine growth had completely
encased the hub and blades of the prop. I had to use a metal putty knife to
scrape it off. There were very few barnacles though, which was a surprise,
given the state of our dinghy when I’d cleaned it. Patrick also reconnected our
drogue, which we had stowed when we arrived in Honolulu to protect the bridle from UV
damage. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From Kane'ohe, I took the bus
to Kailua to
spend Mother’s Day with my mom’s best friend, Linda, and her daughter, Donna, a
childhood friend of mine. Linda had taken Patrick and I to brunch shortly after
we arrived in Honolulu.
Linda’s son Scott works on the popular T.V. show <i>Hawaii-Five-O,</i> and on the way back from brunch to show Linda the
boat, we ran into Scott and the rest of the film crew filming a stunt right at
the Ala Wai Marina. The episode had just aired the Friday before Mother’s Day,
so Linda played the stunt scene back for me.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the anchorage at Kane'ohe
Bay, we also reunited with Richard
from SV <i>Fire Water</i>, whom we had first met in Radio Bay.
Richard’s wife, Doris, had recently passed away, so we did what we could to
offer sympathy. Richard departed Kane'ohe
Bay one day before us, headed for the
west coast of Vancouver Island. SV <i>Saliander</i>,
who had been anchored over by the yacht club, also departed a day before
<i>Silhouette</i>, planning on making landfall in the Shumagin Islands.
Meanwhile, we topped up our water, made a last trip to the farmer’s market for
produce for the voyage, and stowed our dinghy yet again. All of us had been
waiting for a lull in the northeast trades and for some more easterly winds to
make our offing from the islands. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally, our day came. With our sheets and jacklines run, and
our sail cover stowed, we picked up the anchor and quietly slipped out of Kane'ohe Bay. In the spirit of Jack London, we
headed north: North, to Alaska!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0h-dYHdEf60NZdbuGrQQZYNgYAtbRSQfS0petzKqO1tUUwhA75lpgFKRgxA_Qs3CGIknVJR1o9MW1raJnQ2M9SsX_BU71i9p4eKmuu-8MYpfQ7RG7kj6L8rOtgvGNao0mOn0QX2hdqxUJ/s1600/Chinaman's+Hat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0h-dYHdEf60NZdbuGrQQZYNgYAtbRSQfS0petzKqO1tUUwhA75lpgFKRgxA_Qs3CGIknVJR1o9MW1raJnQ2M9SsX_BU71i9p4eKmuu-8MYpfQ7RG7kj6L8rOtgvGNao0mOn0QX2hdqxUJ/s1600/Chinaman's+Hat.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">On the right is the Chinaman's Hat, Mokoli'i in Hawaiian</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBu_q7bQ7S0oU6vAlahSHw39Am_HXg8KZ6hx4t5Vhza5m9lPlrAcuzJKGxiJDDNxd6m-y9AKKHuDsQlSxdlh5zw7t5fduvfPkV3set62ti6RpH9PEWIt21OmfGZhaw-9qyB6xHGx1tHLyZ/s1600/North+shore+pali.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBu_q7bQ7S0oU6vAlahSHw39Am_HXg8KZ6hx4t5Vhza5m9lPlrAcuzJKGxiJDDNxd6m-y9AKKHuDsQlSxdlh5zw7t5fduvfPkV3set62ti6RpH9PEWIt21OmfGZhaw-9qyB6xHGx1tHLyZ/s1600/North+shore+pali.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">North shore pali</span></span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Jh2bFMcujMPrDq2kpYyYO_yNBhrFqL9M4FzR5vMLytlv9H6izb-ILVfUoZc0PEfmJ46cm4o1SDEsu1Vijhvjq0rJT0_YSkwn2x6TvkYBRHE7W6Drvh4xoEPnSA9RvvwmRi6UjL_TIyLM/s1600/Voyaging+canoe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Jh2bFMcujMPrDq2kpYyYO_yNBhrFqL9M4FzR5vMLytlv9H6izb-ILVfUoZc0PEfmJ46cm4o1SDEsu1Vijhvjq0rJT0_YSkwn2x6TvkYBRHE7W6Drvh4xoEPnSA9RvvwmRi6UjL_TIyLM/s1600/Voyaging+canoe.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A modern voyaging canoe</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Hawaiian word “aloha” has multiple meanings: It encompasses hello, goodbye, and a certain
generosity of spirit that is found among the islands. As we leave Hawai'i in our wake, we say both, “Aloha, Hawai'i,” and “Thanks for
the aloha!” </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6TVt7QswuJcljYcEsKkY7-WJ3JfXZQAos2Zs6reBst9Fv3rN9_5LWFhf3LWAtO5Ag9-RfTw9yYfAWaGq2uwUJ11_ZBN0lpM-AUeTtqRK8rFBBlVayXa2lCw56RXfiQdAywLu35pelKvh/s1600/Voyaging+traditions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6TVt7QswuJcljYcEsKkY7-WJ3JfXZQAos2Zs6reBst9Fv3rN9_5LWFhf3LWAtO5Ag9-RfTw9yYfAWaGq2uwUJ11_ZBN0lpM-AUeTtqRK8rFBBlVayXa2lCw56RXfiQdAywLu35pelKvh/s1600/Voyaging+traditions.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Silhouette leaving Kane'ohe Bay</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-74784433469929732922014-06-09T10:45:00.002-07:002014-06-12T22:30:32.878-07:00Safe and Sound in Sitka Sound<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We are tied to the dock on the south breakwater in Eliason Harbor, Sitka, Alaska. We made landfall in daylight, which wouldn't have been possible if not for Alaska's long hours of daylight at this time of year: We didn't get moored until 8:30 p.m. on June 8.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our last night at sea was a doozy and gave us a taste of the real Gulf of Alaska---25 to 35 knot winds, with steep, 2-3 m seas. In the morning, the green-brown following seas still occasionally rose above Silhouette's stern. The winds were higher than forecast and since we hadn't set a stays'l, we just furled the jib and ran downwind under a double-reefed main. We were making 5.5-7.0 knots with this single sail, so we decided not to set the stays'l. Due to the raucous motion of the boat, we didn't get much sleep our last night out, making landfall all the sweeter. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From six miles out, a rainbow arched over Sitka as we approached from the open sea. We started seeing patches of kelp floating on the surface of the ocean and were reminded of how little seaweed there is in the South Pacific. Small flocks of striking black and white pigeon guillemots flew by or floated on the water. Ahead of us, steep spruce-covered mountains rose, speckled with snow patches and braided by fog drifts. As we got nearer, we spied our first sea otter. He was a big fellow---lying on his back out there on his lonesome---and he looked around when I called "hello." Usually, sea otters tend to hang out in groups. Finally, as we approached and rounded the breakwater, we saw our first bald eagles (five or six of them!) lined up on its edge. The breakwater must be a prime fishing spot.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After we got settled, we took a walk and our senses were assaulted by a northwest spring in all its glory. Native plants we haven't seen in three years were once again on the tip of my tongue: large-leaved avens, salmonberry, yarrow, elderberry, rhododendron...Sitka must have seen some sun recently, because the rhododendrons were popping. Their scarlet and purple colors were so vivid in the gray overcast evening, it almost hurt to look at them.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back at the boat, Patrick lit the diesel heater. We had a shot of rum to toast our landfall and quickly grew drowsy in the warmth and comfort of the cabin, knowing we had safely made another crossing, this one 2,575 nautical miles. Happily, we turned in for our first uninterrupted night's sleep in twenty-four days. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-68030209883205234962014-06-07T09:58:00.000-07:002014-06-15T19:16:03.004-07:00Hawaii to Sitka, Days 18-23: No News is Good News<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It is our twenty-third day at sea. Tomorrow, Day 24, will mark the longest passage (time-wise) that we've ever made. Earlier in this trip, it seemed like this passage was going to be significantly longer than all our other passages; but now, it seems it will only exceed them by a day or two. Two of our three longest passages lasted 23 days, but their mileage varied widely: Mexico-Galapagos (1907 NM sailed) and Galapagos-Marquesas (2895 NM sailed). Our third longest passage, New Zealand to Rarotonga (2035 NM sailed) lasted 20.5 days. Our Hawaii to Sitka passage sits somewhere in the middle of these at 2435 NM (estimated mileage). </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiCrkg2ZyUSMtiCL2tFoKWkHPgpQ2B5lFvQM1o1bSnDegyKOVbNXH_VHLW_nlg2bwcX3_JdoSDlotaJFW9vGwollGpuQB9ey1f0-xQ-MSImzm7mDXF-tA7T3a9zjuiHIy3YRLda1nAPJGm/s1600/Instrument+Panel+Repair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiCrkg2ZyUSMtiCL2tFoKWkHPgpQ2B5lFvQM1o1bSnDegyKOVbNXH_VHLW_nlg2bwcX3_JdoSDlotaJFW9vGwollGpuQB9ey1f0-xQ-MSImzm7mDXF-tA7T3a9zjuiHIy3YRLda1nAPJGm/s1600/Instrument+Panel+Repair.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick repairs a loose connection in the instrument panel underway</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our passage has continued to be pretty uneventful. We lost the Laysan albatross a few days ago, and haven't seen anything but storm petrels since. We still haven't caught any fish, not even when we sailed through an area full of seamounts. In fact, the fisherwoman has been on strike for the past two days. I'm tired of setting and retrieving lines in cold, foul, nasty weather and not catching anything. I'll fish again tomorrow, as the water changed color today and is starting to shallow up. Maybe my luck will be better closer to shore.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I had a birthday at sea yesterday. In the three years we've been voyaging, I've spent two birthdays at sea and one on land, in New Zealand. Since Patrick's birthday falls during the South Pacific cyclone season, he's spent one birthday underway (in Mexico) and two on land. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKW-3ioKUQJuNpHgU_X6RPnJoiDyXTmGB-LrrRFo4xIHdJn8IrRUL5HTq7Trtp8q77qIu_DfB0dfPUGip8RMh2miF3oC9JXEus69Mkq9S5SwO0sqaUedXP0UdXEodnyepoo-rjdvWLm_lE/s1600/Selfie+underway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKW-3ioKUQJuNpHgU_X6RPnJoiDyXTmGB-LrrRFo4xIHdJn8IrRUL5HTq7Trtp8q77qIu_DfB0dfPUGip8RMh2miF3oC9JXEus69Mkq9S5SwO0sqaUedXP0UdXEodnyepoo-rjdvWLm_lE/s1600/Selfie+underway.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Selfie underway</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As I write this, we are 210 NM out of Sitka. We could be in as early as June 8, but more likely, it will be the morning of June 9. The southerlies have been good to us. A comparison of the mileage during the middle of this passage to the mileage during the last nine days tells it all.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Noon-to-Noon Mileage in Nautical Miles:
</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">First three days: 102, 129, 141
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Next ten days: 91, 68, 79, 71, 96, 70, 75, 85, 84, 94
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Last nine days: 111, 137, 107, 82, 124, 130, 148, 112, 126
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Today is still in progress, so there is no entry for the twenty-third day.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">That's all the news from Silhouette. As the saying goes, "No news is good news!"
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">_____
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Posted from sea via Ham Radio. Edited for accuracy and photos added after arrival in port. </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-26904538081520021802014-06-02T07:49:00.000-07:002014-06-28T16:42:31.116-07:00Sailing the North Pacific Roller Coaster<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hawaii to Sitka, Days 12-17
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There is a reason why sailors love trade wind sailing. Actually, there are several reasons. The trade winds are reliable. In their season, they blow from a consistent direction at a fairly constant speed. If you choose your route wisely---that is, you choose to travel with the trade winds instead of against them---you are running downwind on a fairly comfortable point of sail. Sailors (including ourselves) give glowing reports of setting the sails and never having to touch them again, except for making very minor adjustments, for two to three weeks at a time. You don't have to constantly change the sail configuration when you're in the trades. No striking and hoisting sails. No setting and furling. No reefing and shaking out reefs. Actually, we did put a reef in the main at night on our trade wind passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. But that was when we were still fairly inexperienced ocean voyagers and still shaken from our first encounter with a squall in the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone. I wonder if we'd make that choice as often now? (Patrick says, "yes.")
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The type of sailing we are doing right now, and that we did on our passages from New Zealand to Hawaii last year---sailing outside the trade wind belt---is a more active kind of sailing and in some respects, more challenging. We have to make frequent adjustments to sail plan and strategy in order to meet the changing conditions. As we do that, a pattern is starting to emerge. Where do these changing conditions come from? On this passage, they are a result of the low pressure systems marching across the North Pacific from west to east: the North Pacific Roller Coaster. Instead of steady trade winds, these weather systems bring rotational winds, often strongest (and therefore, more "usable" to sailors-if not<i> too</i> strong) in their fronts.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In his article titled "Crossing the Pacific High," Richard Ian-Frese of the sailing vessel Anna observed that during their North Pacific crossing, "the lows were stacked up across the North Pacific, like planes on a busy runway." That's a very good analogy.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As these low pressure systems pass over us, bringing their rotational winds, our goal is to skate along as quickly as possible making miles good in the favorable winds (on our desired course, winds from the E, SE, S, and SW are favorable), and to lose as little ground as possible in the contrary winds (N, and NE winds.) To avoid losing ground, we point as high as we can and choose the most favorable tack.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After we punch through one of these systems, there is typically a period of light and variable winds. It is also challenging trying to keep the boat going during these times. We either ghost along under sail at one or two knots; or, if the sails are slatting too much, we motor in fuel conservation mode at about the same speed. Another option is to drift and wait for wind, but we usually choose to keep the boat moving if we can.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As we begin to enter the next weather system, the pattern starts up again. It usually begin with contrary winds from the N, or NE, and we are hard on the wind. As the wind clocks around to the east, we are still beating to maintain our course. As the wind further shifts to the SE---Ah, finally!---we can ease the sheets, speed up, and settle by turns into a broad reach or a comfortable downwind run. We usually try to reserve activities that require the boat to be somewhat level, such as baking bread or taking a shower, for the broad-reaching and downwind runs.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the same time, we try to avoid the strongest winds and heaviest precipitation carried in the fronts of these low pressure systems. We do this by studying the weather files ahead of time and trying to choose a course that will keep us moving towards our goal but also leave us outside of dangerous weather. That choice is made easier at this time of year, because the winds in the low pressure systems are not as strong as they were during winter storms. (There's a reason why we spent the winter in Hawaii!)
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">To be honest, you don't have a lot of choice in the matter. There's a little wiggle room, but once you board the North Pacific Roller Coaster, you can't get off until the end of the ride. You take what you get and you deal with it. One of the things that makes a crossing to the Pacific Northwest when leaving Hawaii at this time of year difficult is that the price of admission to the North Pacific Roller Coaster is crossing the northeast trades at the start. Before you can board the ride, you have to get across the northeast trade winds---which typically blow from 17 to 25 knots at this time of year, out of exactly the direction you want to go---making it difficult to time when and where you board the roller coaster. Later in the summer, as the Pacific High (a stabile high pressure system now to our east) further establishes itself, grows bigger in size and strengthens, the High deflects the trade winds so they become more easterly, making it easier to get an offing from the islands. We chose not to wait to leave Hawaii until later in the summer in order to spend more time in southeast Alaska.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I think that after many voyages, and many passages, sailors develop a sixth sense about when the best time to start a passage is. They know from experience, from living the systems, the general patterns of weather on the oceans at various times of year. However, it may be more difficult to develop this "sixth sense" now than it used to be, in a world of changing climate. While many technological advances have made sailing easier---from the standpoint of materials, equipment, and communications---some things have made sailing more difficult than in the past. Climate change is one of them. Global weather systems are less predictable than they used to be.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our passage did not have an auspicious start, but we are doing better now. In fact, we have fallen into what seems to be an incredible piece of luck: We have a forecast of southerly winds (from the SE, S, and SW) stretching ahead of us for the foreseeable future, for the next week. One of the weather systems affecting our passage is the Pacific High, the high pressure system east of us. Silhouette is positioned between the Pacific High and the procession of lows on the North Pacific Roller Coaster. As the low pressure systems butt up against the Pacific High, they affect its shape, compressing the calm eye in the center of the high and "squishing" its edges. The Pacific High also interacts with an approaching low, deflecting it away from the High, much the way two magnets with opposite poles repel each other. ("More like a billiard ball hitting another billiard ball," says Patrick, which is actually a more accurate comparison, because it includes the idea of deformation) Currently, the High is deflecting an approaching low from the west to the north and west of us, fending off some of its stronger winds. At the same time, the remaining southeasterly winds from the approaching low are merging with the southeasterly winds in the lengthened edge of the High, giving us a period of sustained southerly winds. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The following image captures from our GRIB (GRIdded Binary) weather files better illustrate this scenario. We experienced an even more dramatic example of this a couple of days later, but I think this example is particularly clear. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwKnoUQPH4w8Lk43SulXEIumFQSYcxYx_uLkd8-i3sy0a8Fpd_R8YhSsSWhLX9xeJ59ofEF4oEmgkjpNc9ezhWOlIzf-qCtCbr8N5y5_3oOjvdoW6VTq8PY_WR731r3LbdR9drrPz28i1/s1600/0+Hours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwKnoUQPH4w8Lk43SulXEIumFQSYcxYx_uLkd8-i3sy0a8Fpd_R8YhSsSWhLX9xeJ59ofEF4oEmgkjpNc9ezhWOlIzf-qCtCbr8N5y5_3oOjvdoW6VTq8PY_WR731r3LbdR9drrPz28i1/s1600/0+Hours.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The "normal" condition of the High, showing its generally roundish shape with winds rotating in a clockwise direction around the center</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykjyhdCg-4nTDAoznyNZOzrG-lFncWuyE6qUW_iiA353aN1-zoxt0Cgzo7UA_wbgfD5aOhetWSiQoeukIvL4s2yA_BB5Sp3wACZMziIQ_wfLnUdHEcibN55MEk-1LfPZ1oJgPynhdK2-c/s1600/12+Hours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykjyhdCg-4nTDAoznyNZOzrG-lFncWuyE6qUW_iiA353aN1-zoxt0Cgzo7UA_wbgfD5aOhetWSiQoeukIvL4s2yA_BB5Sp3wACZMziIQ_wfLnUdHEcibN55MEk-1LfPZ1oJgPynhdK2-c/s1600/12+Hours.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An approaching low from the west begins to "squish" the High, lengthening its eastern and western boundaries and deforming its center </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVM8k4Bzou97pD1las5KNBG2yFhtit1pVJ8WGoQWL7Kow2n7yd1xWlnpmbQAdxeUQtw6eSu_2stGHYoU7DGtil1YQ6J42ajTWpTm-Iy8Xj4KgE_eEFKj5Fw067aFSlaHI7xAlmLJ5p5ZM/s1600/24+Hours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVM8k4Bzou97pD1las5KNBG2yFhtit1pVJ8WGoQWL7Kow2n7yd1xWlnpmbQAdxeUQtw6eSu_2stGHYoU7DGtil1YQ6J42ajTWpTm-Iy8Xj4KgE_eEFKj5Fw067aFSlaHI7xAlmLJ5p5ZM/s1600/24+Hours.jpg" height="291" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the same time, the low is deflected by the High, and the counter-clockwise rotating southerly winds in the low merge with the clockwise rotating southerly winds in the high, producing an oceanic freeway of southerlies</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At present, we are rolling along on the North Pacific Roller Coaster, making excellent progress towards Sitka. We have 1703 NM under the keel and 831 NM to go. I think it's time to put our hands up in the air and do the wave!
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In other news...
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Life Aboard: We have reached the shipping lanes, and night watches are kept busy keeping track of the positions of large container ships and tankers, in relation to Silhouette's position, as they ply the waters between Asia and the large ports on the west coast of North America. The sound of voices over the radio, some in foreign languages we can't quite place, adds an element of intrigue to our nights. We have also reached the land of fog, which makes keeping track of those large ships all the more difficult. A ship passed within three miles of us last night, and we couldn't even make out the glow of its lights in the fog.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our outer wear has metamorphosed once again. We started this passage in shorts, T-shirts, and bare feet. We are now donning the Northwest Uniform: a layer of long underwear, a layer of fleece, and a layer of rain gear (in this case, foul weather gear.) The cotton sheets on our pilot berth have been exchanged for fleece ones, and we have one to three blankets (depending on if we are running our diesel heater or not) on the berth as well. Needless to say, the pilot berth is snug and toasty and neither of us leaves it willingly.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Critter Report: We're starting to see more life out here. A whale (I'm pretty sure it was a minke) surfaced next to the boat several nights ago. The whale was swimming parallel to Silhouette at a fast clip and surfaced four times before it disappeared. We have also had a Laysan albatross and possibly, a black-footed albatross, following the boat at different times. We still haven't caught any fish. Although it has sometimes been too rough to fish, I set my lines out whenever possible. Sadly, I think the North Pacific has been pretty well fished out by the driftnet fisheries; but I'm still hoping to catch an ocean-going salmon before we make landfall.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Posted from sea via Ham Radio.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Edited for clarity and images added after arrival in port. </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-61637516491922942014-05-27T11:55:00.000-07:002014-05-27T11:58:00.521-07:00Hawaii to Sitka. Days 7-11: The Canned Chili CardSince I last posted, not much noteworthy has happened; but for the few people back home who may be wondering how we're doing, I thought it was time for another post. So let's talk about what people always talk about when they have nothing else to say: Let's talk about the weather.
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<br>We have been busy trying to keep the boat going in challenging conditions. After three nights in a row of fairly nasty weather, we have been enjoying the last two nights of drier, calmer conditions in the cockpit. That was not true a couple of days ago when I played the chili card...
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<br>It's not a card I play lightly. I pride myself on providing tasty and nutritious meals while we are underway and on trying to keep variety in the menu for interest's sake. But on every passage, there comes a time when I pull from out of my sleeve and play: the canned chili card. It happened on Day 9 of this passage. Day 9 was the day I felt conditions were too rough to cook, that I could not deal with hot water, hot oil, or sharp culinary instruments, and that all I could manage was to open a can and heat up its contents on the stove. We had canned chili for dinner on Day 9. That evening's offering was the Cattle Drive Gold brand, purchased at Costco in Kailua-Kona, but we also like Stagg brand canned chili.
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<br>The forecast low pressure system (1015 hPa) passed over us on Days 7 and 8, bringing sustained winds in the low to mid-twenties and 33 hours of rain. The rain, if not torrential, was at least driving, and it sometimes tapered off to an icy mist. While we cheered the arrival of wind, the angle of the wind was such that it forced us off course; so that even though our boat speed was five to six knots, we were only making three nautical miles (NM) per hour towards our destination. Then the wind almost died, and we either ghosted along under sail or motored for a period, also making slow progress.
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<br>Day 9 brought the high pressure system following the low. We had winds of 18-25 knots into the following day, for a total period of about twenty-six hours. Again, there was no lack of wind to sail, but since the winds were contrary and the seas large, we were only making two NM per hour---at best---or less than one NM, at worst, towards Sitka. We watched with dismay as we crossed 157 degrees of longitude, getting pushed further to the west when we wanted to head northeast. The seas were big and sloppy, occasionally hitting three meters (about ten feet) in height. When the boat smacked into a large enough wave, it would shudder and come completely to a stop before recovering and soldiering on. {The valiant Silhouette always soldiers on!) Although the rain had stopped, we were taking water over the dodger right and left, and the cockpit was still very wet.
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<br>To non-sailors, all of this sounds pretty bad, I'm sure. But fellow sailors realize that these aren't truly bad conditions; they're just uncomfortable ones. We have never been exposed to 50-knot winds at sea. We have never even been in sustained 40-knot winds. In those conditions, you can't even play the canned chili card. You might be able to grab a protein bar if you're lucky. If you're unlucky, you might be too green to eat at all. For us, these uncomfortable conditions just mean the difference between a fast, easy passage and the kind of passage we're going to have: a slow, tenacious one, in which every mile under the keel is hard-won.
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<br>Conditions have moderated during the last day and a half, with lighter winds and smoother seas. The barometer has reached a high of 1030 hPa, up 15 points. Although we are still hard on the wind and only traveling at three to four knots, our miles made good now almost match our boat speed. The angle of the wind has also shifted enough to allow us to get back on track and make our course. The sun even came out this afternoon. These are big improvements over the last several days, and we'll take them, thank you.
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<br>Dinner tonight was clam spaghetti with a crunchy vegetable salad. The clams came out of a can, yes, but they were sauteed in butter, parsley and garlic. Water for noodles was boiled on the stove, and no one got burned. Fresh zucchini, red pepper, cucumber, celery, tomato, radish---and yes, even some cilantro that by some miracle had escaped becoming slimy---were all chopped by hand with a knife to make the salad. I'm happy to report that all the clams stayed in the pan, my fingers remained intact, and none of the veggies ended up on the cabin sole. And the canned chili card? You never know where that thing is going to turn up. It's tucked in my hat band for another voyage.
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<br>Posted from sea via Ham Radio.SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-41302204855411447262014-05-22T18:46:00.000-07:002014-06-15T19:05:44.999-07:00An Unwanted Hitchiker and other Trying Conditions<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hawaii to Sitka, Passage Days 4-6
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was the evening of Passage Day 4, just after the wind had died and we'd made the decision to start the engine, I looked over the stern and saw what looked like a huge gray animal following the boat. It looked like a dolphin, except for a huge trailing lobe on its tail which was more reminiscent of a shark. What's more, the animal appeared to extend directly under our boat, where I saw a flash of green---a dorado! My brain was telling me that I was seeing a shark or dolphin following our boat, chasing after a huge dorado under our stern. But my gut was telling me that we've never seen a shark following the boat and I didn't know if dolphin chased dorado. "Patrick!" I called for the second time, "Come see this thing! This thing following the boat is huge!"
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick came and peered over the stern. "Uh, I think we've snagged something," the Voice of Reason said, as he reached over to take the engine out of gear. Sure enough, as the boat slowed down, I could discern that the flash of green I saw was actually green netting, and the large gray animal was comprised of other black and white portions of a large piece of discarded fishing net, including one of the bridles.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Of course, I wanted to get in the water right away (with a safety line attached to the boat), because that would have been the quickest way to remove the piece of net and examine the prop. The sea was calm, and as there was hardly any wind, we were barely moving. We only had about a half hour of daylight left. The Voice of Reason spoke again, saying that we should exhaust all our other options for removing the net first; but I personally did not relish the thought of our other options failing and having to wait for daylight in order to get into the water. Since there was no wind, we couldn't sail; and since we were dragging a large piece of net, we couldn't use the motor: that meant drifting for twelve hours until daylight. However, since the Voice of Reason belonged to my skipper, I had to comply.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We hauled as much of the net as we could onboard and tied it off to the winches with lines. The net was home to dozens of small crabs, which scuttled all over the deck. While hanging over the side, Patrick said he could see that the net was caught on our rudder---probably snagged on the shoe that supports the bottom of the rudder---and he could see it wasn't tangled in the prop. With the saw blade on his Buck knife, Patrick cut free the huge chunks of netting we had piled on deck. For the next step, a machete would have been handy; but since we didn't have one, Patrick attached his Buck knife to the end of a boat hook with hose clamps. Dusk was falling as I held a big spotlight over the side, while Patrick tried to cut free the remaining piece of netting still snagged on the rudder. Some strands were cut, but then it proved too difficult to see what he was doing with the swell moving both the boat and the spotlight I was holding up and down.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Patrick said, "There's not much left, I'll bet if we motor ahead, it will just stream out behind the boat. I don't think the piece of netting remaining is long enough to reach the prop." I still wasn't convinced there wasn't a piece we couldn't see already caught on the prop. Patrick asked me to put the engine in gear, and I tentatively did so. "Give it a little gas," he said and I did. "Give it some more gas."
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally, I heard Patrick say, "It's free!" The movement of the boat through the water, combined with the severed strands, had removed the final stubborn piece of netting from the rudder. I looked at our speed over ground. At first it seemed slow, but as I brought the throttle up, I realized we were moving at our normal speed. There probably wasn't any net caught on the prop after all. That was Day 4.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqZfElV7a1Ifhx3Dw2qw2alpN6KwBHmo55GmcranAEb_U5m-SPsgyjFytCCltA3namT8yjmPr7iX4KmINgZ3KH7oDfFE2Ok6ResNVeo1u7HB9v69tHeF6RJwDVqDjsaj-m6I4ZVzbUINi/s1600/Net+fragment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqZfElV7a1Ifhx3Dw2qw2alpN6KwBHmo55GmcranAEb_U5m-SPsgyjFytCCltA3namT8yjmPr7iX4KmINgZ3KH7oDfFE2Ok6ResNVeo1u7HB9v69tHeF6RJwDVqDjsaj-m6I4ZVzbUINi/s1600/Net+fragment.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The hitchiker onboard </span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Backing up a bit, our passage slowed down to a crawl after our exhilarating twenty-four hour period of sailing on Day 3. We sailed ourselves into an area of light and variable winds, in which conditions changed on a dime. A rain squall passed over us, and the wind changed direction from southeast to west in a heartbeat, sending the boat off course and us scrambling to get her back on course and re-trim the sails. Or the wind speed increased from five knots to 17 knots in a matter of minutes, plunging us from motoring mode into sailing mode. Then, just as suddenly, the wind would die again. We've done a lot of setting and furling the jib in the past couple of days.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Most recently, we've had no wind at all and have been motoring in fuel conservation mode, keeping our rpms low, and consequently, so too our mileage made good. Our daily mileage for the past three days of motoring interspersed with sailing has been 91 nm, 82 nm, and 79 nm, not all of it in the right direction. At least we have been making forward progress, if at a slow pace. This afternoon, we shut down the engine and just drifted for four hours in the sunshine and a rolling, long period swell. Patrick wanted to cool the engine down so he could check it and check the oil. We are motoring again, but the weather forecast predicts that we will get some wind tomorrow.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The wind will be associated with a low that will be passing over us. On our weather files, this area appears jet black, meaning it will bring precipitation with it. Lots of precipitation. We can expect torrential rain and a wet cockpit starting tomorrow afternoon. This is one of those occasions when you look forward to the low, because at least it will bring some wind with it. And if we remain patient with what will hopefully be the last of these trying conditions, we will emerge into some strong, usable wind surrounding the high pressure system that awaits us on the other side.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Posted from sea via Ham Radio. Photo added after arriving in port. </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-1599325275812957032014-05-18T11:53:00.001-07:002014-05-18T11:53:37.004-07:00Hawaii to Sitka, Day 3: The Musicians SeamountsAbout 280 miles north of Hawaii, on our third day out, we are passing through the southern end of an area of underwater landforms which on our chart are labeled "The Musicians Seamounts." Did you know Debussy has his own seamount? For those unfamiliar with the term, a seamount is an underwater mountain whose top used to be above sea level. Eroded by wind and waves, the top was flattened, and the sea level rose above the former mountain. Think of a flat-topped mesa, rising up from the desert floor, only underwater. Due to their shallow relief relative to the ocean floor around them, seamounts are usually teeming with life, and fishermen love these things.
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<br>I probably never would have known about the existence of the Musicians Seamounts had we not been sailing over them. In this part of the ocean, most of the great classical composers have a seamount named after them: Tchaikovsky, Mussorgski, Dvorak, Mozart, Ravel, Chopin, and Stravinsky all have seamounts in their names. Wagner, Verdi, and Rossini each have a seamount. Handel and Haydn, Gluck, Brahms and Liszt are represented. Schubert, Mahler, and Mendelssohn have seamounts. Today, I found myself wondering if Rachmaninoff, whose dark moods sometimes reflect the mood of the sea, had a seamount named after him? I went to the chart: Rachmaninoff has a seamount.
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<br>There are some notable absences from the procession of seamounts. Bach does not have a seamount named after him, nor does Beethoven. There are no seamounts named Strauss or Puccini.
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<br>Gaps, too, in one's musical education, are suggested by the names of some of the seamounts. For me, these include the work of Shostakovich, Kern, Paganini, Donizetti, Khachaturian, Prokofiev, and Grieg. Grieg?
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<br>I wonder what nation originally surveyed this area and what whimsy caused them to name this sunken archipelago after the world's great classical musicians?
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<br>Our passage has gotten off to a good start. We made slow offing from the island of Oahu, because the winds were light and still more from the northeast than we'd hoped. We were on a beat to a close reach the first day and moving only at about three to four knots. However, the seas were settled and we had a nice, calm ride for our first day out at sea. Getting our sea legs back was easier than adjusting to the rude interruption in our sleep schedules when resuming watches after five months of sleeping through the night.
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<br>On the second day, the wind shifted to the east and came around to our beam. We sailed along on a beam reach, still averaging only about four knots, as the wind strength gradually built throughout the day. By evening, we were doing five knots; and by this morning, we were flying along in twenty knots of wind at boat speeds of six, seven, even eight knots---and having great fun!---until the sea became too boisterous with the building swell, and we had to slow the boat down by putting a reef---and then another reef---in the main. This evening, the wind came around to the south. After dinner, we put up the pole and are now sailing wing and wing downwind. From midnight last night to midnight tonight, we did 143 nautical miles! That's close to as good as it gets on Silhouette.
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<br>Posted from sea via Ham Radio.SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-70397663431614519282014-05-15T09:38:00.003-07:002014-05-15T09:38:31.463-07:00Getting underway<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Silhouette </i>sails for Sitka, Alaska today. </span></span>SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-36890948521855704852014-05-04T10:01:00.000-07:002014-05-06T10:29:56.455-07:00Molokai Meanderings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /><br />We have been in the Ala Wai Marina on Oahu for over two months now, which means a post about Molokai is long overdue.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNMVi_aofEQuE5PJ-jKfiZU3guGA9S0IJ58dPA6zm_Q0TRuln0V93Nf3roM63jUjSLxfO3pdW6b3zEIzUIKYm8ykkiChV9f0e0VVYww48Kk9l1gdjcJ7qQ6L4g_r4T2xdiSlcWFvtON-E/s1600/Small+boat+harbor+at+Kaunakakai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNMVi_aofEQuE5PJ-jKfiZU3guGA9S0IJ58dPA6zm_Q0TRuln0V93Nf3roM63jUjSLxfO3pdW6b3zEIzUIKYm8ykkiChV9f0e0VVYww48Kk9l1gdjcJ7qQ6L4g_r4T2xdiSlcWFvtON-E/s1600/Small+boat+harbor+at+Kaunakakai.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Small boat harbor across from the anchorage at Kaunakakai</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The anchorage </span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />We initially dropped anchor in Kaunakakai. The anchorage there is across the channel from the small boat harbor and is extremely shallow. With our draft close to six-feet, we were positioned ideally in the deeper water just forward of the first channel buoy. The bottom is soft mud, and there is a large, shallow reef directly west of the anchorage; we ended up dropping a second anchor.<br /><br /><br />There is not a dinghy dock per se, but there is room to tie up your dinghy in between some of the boats at the dock. What appears to be a dinghy dock is actually kept very busy with the comings and goings of small fishing boats. The inviting sand beach you can see from the anchorage is on private property: If you ask the canoe club, you may receive permission to land your dinghy. We never tried it. <br /><br /><br />A long walk down the wharf brings you right into town, where a Laundromat, fuel (via jerry cans), and grocery stores are all within the first couple of blocks. Hanging out at the local gas station (further down from the Chevron) and kitty-corner across from that, you will find the town’s two tour drivers in their big white vans when they are not on a tour. They are good resources for information. The woman who runs the bookstore on the corner is also a wealth of knowledge and local history. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The best kept secret </span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />I would say that Molokai is “the best kept secret” in the Hawaiian islands, except for the fact that its least-developed state is deliberate, not a secret. The residents of Molokai protect it fiercely from developers and big tourism---and while one can imagine that there is some dissention about that issue, and that island politics are probably fierce---as visitors to Molokai, we could enjoy the result without having to be party to the process. Molokai is not only the least developed but the least populated of the major Hawaiian islands. The people on Molokai are friendly and helpful, and the pace of life is slow and mellow. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy15llnQ-HfRWF5z9CLkns3aNSwblbQbbn00GR_PkMwkq9dnaYCcmJkZW1WfcFjQLurvc1JShok0fEhwYaj1ZpQmdSk72ivThow_B0CE8T5e782RNd0Rf6yoYIzJa_45UfZO8B82l2RDoY/s1600/Our+Lady+of+Sorrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy15llnQ-HfRWF5z9CLkns3aNSwblbQbbn00GR_PkMwkq9dnaYCcmJkZW1WfcFjQLurvc1JShok0fEhwYaj1ZpQmdSk72ivThow_B0CE8T5e782RNd0Rf6yoYIzJa_45UfZO8B82l2RDoY/s1600/Our+Lady+of+Sorrows.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our Lady of Sorrows church set against the background of central Molokai</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The island is a mélange of diverse habitats, all with striking topography and lush vegetation. A barrier reef rich in marine life extends along most of the south coast of Molokai.<br /><br />In the center of the island is a Forest Reserve containing rainforest. We didn’t get to visit the reserve, because it requires a four-wheel drive vehicle to get to any of the trailheads, but we did see some examples of healthy forests near the Kalaupapa overlook. This ironwood forest looked like it had been there forever, but we were told it was planted as a Public Works project.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtzOli4PRs1jRXXXxotsqSZnXArOWa0I-kB6smK3XJUl_epvi2-pET_0XJcGgr_bzNj9zrXBQCEYcKBMvsMizIYgCxcGKzGDZMIGxT0Ji-YNwiJV0XZTSxlkLGeQ6IHqTg6SsRU371qEt/s1600/Patrick+in+the+ironwood+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtzOli4PRs1jRXXXxotsqSZnXArOWa0I-kB6smK3XJUl_epvi2-pET_0XJcGgr_bzNj9zrXBQCEYcKBMvsMizIYgCxcGKzGDZMIGxT0Ji-YNwiJV0XZTSxlkLGeQ6IHqTg6SsRU371qEt/s1600/Patrick+in+the+ironwood+forest.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Patrick in the ironwood forest, on the trail to the Kalaupapa Overlook</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjnLQOJZJblilPJyn_WuDsXmIcIAaKuqt2lXPm_VNdn0xbxYQ9TETgEsFj314i3oxHqhk3f6WJuJWmbvjIfg-E5ml9UTCpv4uYLBwr4zAGPsmVNhvpK_MW2vkSQGrlUOzgfmGguA1Q9Xp/s1600/Molokai+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjnLQOJZJblilPJyn_WuDsXmIcIAaKuqt2lXPm_VNdn0xbxYQ9TETgEsFj314i3oxHqhk3f6WJuJWmbvjIfg-E5ml9UTCpv4uYLBwr4zAGPsmVNhvpK_MW2vkSQGrlUOzgfmGguA1Q9Xp/s1600/Molokai+forest.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Molokai forest---I'm not sure what trees we are seeing here</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZSgvkuSgebfN3oBSegvLRJULNqEhZ4upN_pp7XlGwCM08H9uo1bPn3Dsvku08Y83FlWZYimJL7XbPPsg1XlYl4emxDL_S1cGdFst9d3oKs6-Je9U2rXqO_rsN40NCq_su3TcUkzqu6Agb/s1600/Molokai+forest+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZSgvkuSgebfN3oBSegvLRJULNqEhZ4upN_pp7XlGwCM08H9uo1bPn3Dsvku08Y83FlWZYimJL7XbPPsg1XlYl4emxDL_S1cGdFst9d3oKs6-Je9U2rXqO_rsN40NCq_su3TcUkzqu6Agb/s1600/Molokai+forest+2.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another forest view on Molokai</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />We visited Molokai's phallic rock, a sacred spot where the Hawaiian god, Kanaloa, is honored. Kanaloa is associated with the ocean, the winds, and with sailing voyaging canoes. Together with his traveling companion, Kane, Kanaloa is also important for locating sources of fresh (drinking) water. I'm not sure where the phallic symbol comes in, but which island's monument to Kanaloa do you prefer?</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXxadgw6Ba-GZ4-pbCjcK37Jwf12-Xr_iTup6F_kCdPf4YAIoT2kkZp_DiKLQFE8tkGbYVh9Xczv4T9hB4SCkGGR0B_DxINJGbsPoX_BUVJ1CKjY58c9cXRAUxPVXPJr5TCQdY9B_h_K69/s1600/Molokai's+phallic+rock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXxadgw6Ba-GZ4-pbCjcK37Jwf12-Xr_iTup6F_kCdPf4YAIoT2kkZp_DiKLQFE8tkGbYVh9Xczv4T9hB4SCkGGR0B_DxINJGbsPoX_BUVJ1CKjY58c9cXRAUxPVXPJr5TCQdY9B_h_K69/s1600/Molokai's+phallic+rock.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Offerings are left at the base of Molokai's anatomically correct phallic rock</span></b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLHMTNx1YaVZrIQux0dLghMJn6PHM51xW_z2sX4uQfOybY72ITfqRdQzcDTP6tyHlYHqZDRZoDlmxKDBZJy1TsYQQtcJxWubJYy2XVA66xPBV9uYiIkj4Jqq1FEZmgqJEYNA3Dd__IeuYS/s1600/Io+Needle+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLHMTNx1YaVZrIQux0dLghMJn6PHM51xW_z2sX4uQfOybY72ITfqRdQzcDTP6tyHlYHqZDRZoDlmxKDBZJy1TsYQQtcJxWubJYy2XVA66xPBV9uYiIkj4Jqq1FEZmgqJEYNA3Dd__IeuYS/s1600/Io+Needle+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Maui's Io Needle (left)</span></span></b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We also saw some of the oldest stands of O’hia lehua trees that we saw anywhere in the islands. <br /><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDy8ERH37xKzs4E0DKoJkNBzGaV0axzvqscArYjMWBpIaHmdYED4OY-nPUPsUv2BYw5zQDtKOcCjOMyEyMw0wo8xY1XP8e5m-FKnQ2KIbap29VpXRhr8AHYjhZFIKU3fX0tQgmeGUAson6/s1600/O%2527hia+lehua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDy8ERH37xKzs4E0DKoJkNBzGaV0axzvqscArYjMWBpIaHmdYED4OY-nPUPsUv2BYw5zQDtKOcCjOMyEyMw0wo8xY1XP8e5m-FKnQ2KIbap29VpXRhr8AHYjhZFIKU3fX0tQgmeGUAson6/s1600/O%2527hia+lehua.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Twisted</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The north shore of Molokai, like the windward shores of most of the Hawaiian islands, are distinguished by dramatic pleated cliffs, or <i>pali</i> in Hawaiian. Rivers travel from the backs of the fertile valleys between these cliffs---where waterfalls cascade hundreds, sometimes thousands of feet, feeding the streams---before they meet the sea. The anchorages on northern Molokai are tenuous at the best of times, and winter is not the best of times. Unfortunately, we did not have a spell of unbroken weather long enough to explore the Wailiu Valley or the Kalaupapa anchorages. The mysterious heart of Molokai---its indescribably gorgeous north shore---haunts my imagination. <br /><br /> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvp82rwyhBTmD7D_8GKzxUox_c3Qp3nPTVZkt0Ibbd_sU1ixSu3Il5z1_yjNCa3ydeGuKdHqlcPODs0oON_ra5lPhrj6UMXneUqcNKf7kwpWq2si1nO3gLLe1OOqFj0xFQoarqvOPnz6i/s1600/Halawe+Valley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvp82rwyhBTmD7D_8GKzxUox_c3Qp3nPTVZkt0Ibbd_sU1ixSu3Il5z1_yjNCa3ydeGuKdHqlcPODs0oON_ra5lPhrj6UMXneUqcNKf7kwpWq2si1nO3gLLe1OOqFj0xFQoarqvOPnz6i/s1600/Halawe+Valley.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">River mouth at Halawe Valley: This picture does not really show the pali</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipD8qcqJCJPojkmE8HMFfg1IZ6ofShI25xAdE9wE4x7bR4kfClbxcY5aTL9ysb7EQ5y-PN7nX5WjMfuxzAJYA9rWDIwy33I0LrQPfaY54gST8xGVaGth14MZ87YYPwgztrzxSNqjaWN4EG/s1600/Headland+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipD8qcqJCJPojkmE8HMFfg1IZ6ofShI25xAdE9wE4x7bR4kfClbxcY5aTL9ysb7EQ5y-PN7nX5WjMfuxzAJYA9rWDIwy33I0LrQPfaY54gST8xGVaGth14MZ87YYPwgztrzxSNqjaWN4EG/s1600/Headland+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Headland on the northeast shore of Molokai</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6RYyNdfOGnu2K64y3SbkhEfZyLCETvhyphenhyphenDkwLKlc1BG0T9iCnGRhzr1LDOwkSRVlFmFaW5w4OCKGgySdlSMe6BDjfXLGGEgZwlb8tgSnDr0mTVXe9ULcENAOpjAzLYIyajWFt4IrsnLFg/s1600/Beach+at+mouth+of+river+at+Halawe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6RYyNdfOGnu2K64y3SbkhEfZyLCETvhyphenhyphenDkwLKlc1BG0T9iCnGRhzr1LDOwkSRVlFmFaW5w4OCKGgySdlSMe6BDjfXLGGEgZwlb8tgSnDr0mTVXe9ULcENAOpjAzLYIyajWFt4IrsnLFg/s1600/Beach+at+mouth+of+river+at+Halawe.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Molokai Zen</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />The top and west sides of the interior contain a patchwork quilt of ranchland. The fences on Molokai were a thing of beauty. Wooden, made from the twisted trees found on the island, they weren’t hewn or planed into perfect posts and planks and were covered with a patina of lichen: They looked like they belonged there. Cows ambled through the ranchland with cattle egrets sitting on their backs. The west coast of Molokai sported one of the longest, cleanest sandy beaches I have ever seen. The golden color of the volcanic sand making up the beach gave it a warm glow, even on the overcast day that we were there.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8lBn5YYKA0vN0GTXo__Dw1FM9M593nM_dKPwAA-S9eo09xmR59hM_AthnCyKGrC_U51ZiOvG61EXhAM11IQu6FxRmfgv_Cyxnrbymo6yRWXZZaysC5mbciUwkUVWgq5tnwl4Yyvtt1r7M/s1600/Unspoiled+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8lBn5YYKA0vN0GTXo__Dw1FM9M593nM_dKPwAA-S9eo09xmR59hM_AthnCyKGrC_U51ZiOvG61EXhAM11IQu6FxRmfgv_Cyxnrbymo6yRWXZZaysC5mbciUwkUVWgq5tnwl4Yyvtt1r7M/s1600/Unspoiled+beach.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Papohaku Beach on the west coast of Molokai</span></b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinoPikI84YZt0tlC7VhRvspP7EKcNQFlurzd1gkjDfvE3tvUmPSDbpNJJ_gVNeJe_NwDGYUjmgrwqRERoBeCTpShX6VrLrMlGVQPtRGacTgjBWBhyNvzSx7QYlmnqQEK5F9cIjs53t9lMa/s1600/Surf+at+P.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinoPikI84YZt0tlC7VhRvspP7EKcNQFlurzd1gkjDfvE3tvUmPSDbpNJJ_gVNeJe_NwDGYUjmgrwqRERoBeCTpShX6VrLrMlGVQPtRGacTgjBWBhyNvzSx7QYlmnqQEK5F9cIjs53t9lMa/s1600/Surf+at+P.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Surf on Papohaku</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HOEuORI4GvFTAFGDfUJBqyzaKBhoua-Jhzf4OAEE0NZBHG3nKq5aRKsctqxHAjn1tYovQfbLFVSaW7WmAY-vr1NN9dTYAmJEIeDUIDfoTUeT5chJtHhE4hXS8XZ1O7x5yyl0LxaqLxVB/s1600/Shore+bird+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HOEuORI4GvFTAFGDfUJBqyzaKBhoua-Jhzf4OAEE0NZBHG3nKq5aRKsctqxHAjn1tYovQfbLFVSaW7WmAY-vr1NN9dTYAmJEIeDUIDfoTUeT5chJtHhE4hXS8XZ1O7x5yyl0LxaqLxVB/s1600/Shore+bird+2.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another visitor to the beach</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy9nxGWXplQMs4PLjZ7x6DucXyv3J4EUf6kM8V5_k50cgi8tQKMrjesRYsX8jZdPFd94RNpg-1lTCqnF5nXLKGfyNE485fBqp6dbz9nzNC7TiZeG-Kc3_v9DBytcfg4-4cJK0QikGCULz/s1600/Beach+walk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy9nxGWXplQMs4PLjZ7x6DucXyv3J4EUf6kM8V5_k50cgi8tQKMrjesRYsX8jZdPFd94RNpg-1lTCqnF5nXLKGfyNE485fBqp6dbz9nzNC7TiZeG-Kc3_v9DBytcfg4-4cJK0QikGCULz/s1600/Beach+walk.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A perfect day for a beach walk</span></span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /><b>History preserved </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />Along the protected south and southeast coasts are some of the best preserved of the ancient Hawaiian fish ponds.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CDHEgQ86PtuvYjOIYHv1ev8AP51sdpqJbGTtyIl5AJZ9AP3lQtFmnOkNpglO0YlNcUtFVoBNBtZESaeLfcnbqBRSe5vzKeHmhQMXvRgnEPDohuGvmobc0hL70AAU9Pn10ahqYuKsxoVj/s1600/Fish+Pond+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CDHEgQ86PtuvYjOIYHv1ev8AP51sdpqJbGTtyIl5AJZ9AP3lQtFmnOkNpglO0YlNcUtFVoBNBtZESaeLfcnbqBRSe5vzKeHmhQMXvRgnEPDohuGvmobc0hL70AAU9Pn10ahqYuKsxoVj/s1600/Fish+Pond+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The entrance to the fish pond is located between the two rock pillars</span></b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OQojQJbYWiPfEs5wnP8QWkZ3aHP2yBFRcXXlPy4KShuVODRKzGJbSoSwq5hTGcBRfBAj8FgtU-V4Otd6CcAq9jWx50Le5Lq1mcCiZNITNK7P2bf1LeItbvT3bIEN0HVIh5VfrHuln4YT/s1600/Fish+Pond+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OQojQJbYWiPfEs5wnP8QWkZ3aHP2yBFRcXXlPy4KShuVODRKzGJbSoSwq5hTGcBRfBAj8FgtU-V4Otd6CcAq9jWx50Le5Lq1mcCiZNITNK7P2bf1LeItbvT3bIEN0HVIh5VfrHuln4YT/s1600/Fish+Pond+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another view of the fish pond giving some idea of its large size</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The concept behind the design of these fish ponds is that the young fish enter when they’re small. The ponds provide a protected nursery area in which the young fish feed and grow without large predators. However, by the time the fish are ready to leave the pond, they have outgrown the entrances they came in through and are trapped in the pond. The ancient Hawaiians harvested fish from the ponds when they needed it or wanted it for a feast. Like many things in ancient Hawaii, the fish ponds belonged to royalty.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />We also visited a relic of more recent history on Molokai, a restored sugar mill.<br /><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRcFGydIB6KPhwx26_1evADWgzbWSX1g7bRRx3brtfEceeGCATcRcKOzpKK3OFraTP45Dib_XhJGvSa63jeMONuAHRQCJyNpW_mA4sWVx4kKL_Vbe9pKPaH8u_3f2SFXBVo9vgH_gx658/s1600/Sugar+mill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRcFGydIB6KPhwx26_1evADWgzbWSX1g7bRRx3brtfEceeGCATcRcKOzpKK3OFraTP45Dib_XhJGvSa63jeMONuAHRQCJyNpW_mA4sWVx4kKL_Vbe9pKPaH8u_3f2SFXBVo9vgH_gx658/s1600/Sugar+mill.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Former sugar (and coffee) mill on Molokai</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxb4zcH8FL9tSJm523nJE_RcCIoEIK3LyIPOsDF82W74brousEKvR0i8DMf8Vd5d6BR5cFRxADhcCxzcf07UhfFF9ESrb6X2UIVNS01_beQKzPYjr-9dW6gRnc6KuRWhonMj-Sxg48DBg/s1600/Sugar+press.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxb4zcH8FL9tSJm523nJE_RcCIoEIK3LyIPOsDF82W74brousEKvR0i8DMf8Vd5d6BR5cFRxADhcCxzcf07UhfFF9ESrb6X2UIVNS01_beQKzPYjr-9dW6gRnc6KuRWhonMj-Sxg48DBg/s1600/Sugar+press.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">The
sugar press: A mule harnessed to the wooden beam walked around the
cement platform in circles to turn the press, while a man fed sugar cane
between the two metal drums for crushing</span></b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCl4k9RaU_-RhT66chaVgSSx2m1qFaDdsUX1PG7ICfPp0hsoZYnQ8JLGrKu8MekXNbsnloKyHUnlT43Xcyo3Ac3kxEhK9RyuNFcIY6S08gTln7uJMGGuRqyAejjO6MYZDYkqfhIcbCIm6W/s1600/Boiler+and+steam+engine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCl4k9RaU_-RhT66chaVgSSx2m1qFaDdsUX1PG7ICfPp0hsoZYnQ8JLGrKu8MekXNbsnloKyHUnlT43Xcyo3Ac3kxEhK9RyuNFcIY6S08gTln7uJMGGuRqyAejjO6MYZDYkqfhIcbCIm6W/s1600/Boiler+and+steam+engine.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The boiler (aft) and steam engine (foreground) used to generate electricity to run the sugar mill</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG3UHswkY-9ACEIUKHwqgENneGjkB55GrMZdaNySuJKWDBnGmR9ZU1AgeQ_RoM9EGSCTsEZ8FRh0cE7DO9B3i0obo_JMQFyTTzAjz2O52azvJeP_0VCWwGwrxhu9CN-Jql2XxD_Kr9w_q/s1600/Centrifuge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG3UHswkY-9ACEIUKHwqgENneGjkB55GrMZdaNySuJKWDBnGmR9ZU1AgeQ_RoM9EGSCTsEZ8FRh0cE7DO9B3i0obo_JMQFyTTzAjz2O52azvJeP_0VCWwGwrxhu9CN-Jql2XxD_Kr9w_q/s1600/Centrifuge.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A centrifuge seperated molasses from sugar: The molasses was drained into a vat through an opening in the floor</span></b></i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA9ElpCQZmKhFkKv1igUoKFY2lMZQ8hMUCUwSwYG2Dfr8UaagyB-bZh_ZMtdUAWo9ylrHNU2f9zX859N9m2E_YLyxZuhhgKPBrnuiR2rm7dzExOFJqbXs14qAbbdUn3RR0c0KAh-Iqo6i/s1600/Evaporation+pans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA9ElpCQZmKhFkKv1igUoKFY2lMZQ8hMUCUwSwYG2Dfr8UaagyB-bZh_ZMtdUAWo9ylrHNU2f9zX859N9m2E_YLyxZuhhgKPBrnuiR2rm7dzExOFJqbXs14qAbbdUn3RR0c0KAh-Iqo6i/s1600/Evaporation+pans.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Evaporation pans where the sugar slurry dried and sugar crystals were formed</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In a nod to cultural sensitivy, the sugar mill also advertised itself as a cultural center. It housed a natural history museum with an extensive shell collection, a small demonstration garden of the plants that Polynesian seafarers brought to the islands, and rotating art exhibits. It was at the "sugar mill and cultural center" where we saw an excellent photography exhibit on Kalaupapa and gleaned some of the information reported below. </span></span><br />
<h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b> </b></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>The Kalaupapa peninsula and the legacy of Father Damien </b></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Molokai is perhaps best known to outsiders as the site of the former Kalaupapa leper colony. Although the term “leper” has gone out of use and is considered offensive, that is what Kalaupapa was called for many years. Since 1980, the colony has been called the Kalaupapa Leprosy Settlement and National Historical Park. The leprosy settlement is located on a flat peninsula (the Kalaupapa peninsula) on the north shore of Molokai. Anything outside the leprosy settlement is referred to as “topside” on Molokai. <br /><br /><br /> </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JoSRQ8rDOhDid0c2rykXUP0iAHBqVTLoquU-oQtQ3dGL9JXJvXJff8KeobtKwsy1UFhjCKdSfMlop1n7BnYs7TN3WHtXuLHB0hzu5sHfL6xGam4QuC7xOoBjaE1Km5T2vP1P3ImGF-Ra/s1600/Kalaupapa+Peninsula.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JoSRQ8rDOhDid0c2rykXUP0iAHBqVTLoquU-oQtQ3dGL9JXJvXJff8KeobtKwsy1UFhjCKdSfMlop1n7BnYs7TN3WHtXuLHB0hzu5sHfL6xGam4QuC7xOoBjaE1Km5T2vP1P3ImGF-Ra/s1600/Kalaupapa+Peninsula.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Kalaupapa peninsula: You can see a hint of the pali at right</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The proper term for leprosy is Hansen’s disease, a communicable disease caused by bacteria. Its transmission is believed to be through respiratory droplets, but Hansen’s disease is not nearly as contagious as was feared at the time <a href="http://www.mamalahoa.org/about/king-kamehameha-v" target="_blank">King Kamehameha V</a> enacted an isolation law to prevent the spread of the disease. Starting in the mid-1860’s, sufferers of leprosy were forced to lived in exile on the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Thousands of leprosy patients lived and died on Kalaupapa.<br /><br />Originally, the leprosy settlement was at Kalawao, on the windward side of the Kalaupapa peninsula. It was eventually moved to Kalaupapa, on the leeward side, because it is a more protected location. The people who lived at Kalawao and Kalaupapa were forced to leave their homes, friends, and families, and move to the leprosy settlement. In the early days, the afflicted were brought to the leprosy colony by ship, thrown overboard, and forced to swim to shore. We read that in later days, nuns at the leprosy colony were instrumental in fishing people out of the water. <br /><br />Although we didn’t tour the settlement, we heard about some of the other abuses to human rights that the sufferers of Hansen’s disease faced. If two patients chanced to fall in love and marry on Kalaupapa, any offspring they had were taken away from them. Their children were removed immediately after birth and sent to a family on topside Molokai to raise. And even though the antibiotics used to treat and cure leprosy started becoming available in the late 1940’s, the isolation law wasn’t removed by the State of Hawaii until 1969!<br /><br />Untreated, Hansen’s disease is a disfiguring disease which attacks the nerves and skin. Many sufferers from leprosy had unsightly skin lesions, lost their vision, or lost extremities due to lack of sensation in their fingers and toes and repeated injuries. The social stigma accompanying leprosy is perhaps the most painful thing for the residents of Kalaupapa to bear, because even today, lack of information about the disease causes people to be afraid.<br /><br />When the isolation law was repealed in 1969, many former patients left the colony. Some who had been at Kalaupapa since they were children remained, because it was the only home they knew, and some were concerned about how the outside world would perceive them. Some of those who left came back, because assimilating into the outside world proved too difficult. Even though they were cleared of the disease and no longer contagious, people would stare at the former Hansen’s patients or ostracize them, even members of their own families. <br /><br />Originally from Belgium, Joseph De Vesteurs was ordained a priest in Honolulu in 1864. In 1873, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/kala/historyculture/damien.htm" target="_blank">Father Damien </a>(as De Vesteurs became known) voluntarily came to live at Kalaupapa to help those suffering from Hansen's disease. With his arrival, conditions for the leprosy patients dramatically improved. Prior to Damien’s arrival, the residents lived in caves, rock shelters, or rudimentary huts made of sticks and leaves. Damien appealed to the outside world for help and built homes, churches, hospitals, and schools on Kalaupapa. Damien also administered to the faithful on “topside” Molokai and established several churches outside of Kalaupapa, such as Our Lady of Sorrows, pictured above. It wasn't clear to me why Father Damien could come and go from the leprosy colony, but the patients themselves could not. In any case, Father Damien was devoted to the patients on Kalaupapa, living and working alongside them for sixteen years. Damien contracted leprosy in 1884, and in 1889, he died of leprosy at Kalawao. To this day, Damien remains the only visitor to Kalawao/Kalaupapa to have contracted leprosy.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8kzI3ua5zI7R1bxXppLRQFYUOwOBUEqT_s7hY5oH9vjmUTEDrvad0s4BD7TShvBszOJlZJAeOLrgJQMWEQhp9DHpadx-_QybGKhXzW0wVYA4sQWezVmN_eToZ-wWup3zK2AbS2DA_ylBZ/s1600/Kalaupapa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8kzI3ua5zI7R1bxXppLRQFYUOwOBUEqT_s7hY5oH9vjmUTEDrvad0s4BD7TShvBszOJlZJAeOLrgJQMWEQhp9DHpadx-_QybGKhXzW0wVYA4sQWezVmN_eToZ-wWup3zK2AbS2DA_ylBZ/s1600/Kalaupapa.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Kalaupapa today: Saint Philomena church (center) was established by Father Damien</span></b></i></td></tr>
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</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Father Damien was not alone in his devotion to the Hansen’s patients, but he was perhaps the most successful in calling their plight to the attention of the outside world. Other priests worked at Kalaupapa before and after Damien. <a href="http://www.patheos.com/Catholic/Servant-Lepers-Pat-McNamara-10-09-12.html" target="_blank">Joseph Dutton</a> (who never took vows and has a colorful life story of his own) joined Damien at Kalawao three years before he died and helped carry Damien's work into the next century. Dutton remained at Kalaupapa for 45 years. <a href="http://www.nps.gov/kala/historyculture/marianne.htm" target="_blank">Mother Marianne Cope</a> and some of the Sisters of Saint Francis also arrived at Kalaupapa the year before Damien died. Mother Marianne never left Kalaupapa. She died there in 1918 after thirty years of ministering to both the physical and spiritual needs of the leprosy patients. Mother Marianne never contracted leprosy. <br /><br />Today, visitors to Molokai can visit Kalaupapa on foot, or by mule ride. Both methods require negotiating a steep, three mile trail down the almost-vertical sea cliffs, the same trail on which escapees from Kalaupapa were intercepted. (Escapees were returned to exile and sent to jail.) Whether you visit by foot or by mule, you cannot enter the settlement without a permit (unless you have a direct invitation from a resident) and must obtain the permit through <a href="http://beatofhawaii.com/damien-tours-on-molokai/" target="_blank">Damien Tours</a>. Tours of the settlement are conducted by the residents and as such, are a rich source of living history. As with World War II veterans and Holocaust survivors, the inhabitants of Kalaupapa are dying of old age. As their numbers dwindle, there is the same concern that their stories won’t be told, and that history will repeat itself. After the last resident dies, the settlement will be administered as an historical park by the National Park Service. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Molokai Triptych </span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When I was on Maui, I walked into an art gallery one day and discovered the work of surrealist painter,Vladimir Kush. I was instantly attracted to Kush’s work. As I said in my post on Maui, Kush’s work is full of images of transformation, hope, and love. Many of Kush's paintings also contain sailing imagery. One of Kush’s paintings became associated in my mind with some images from Molokai. <br /><br /> </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEgxtO60cdO-tRmzImxXzGY1qcFpc3_gfwGarV0dE9MO1rpbrnO_3XZWzvlYBZ_nqtqAUS-COleyeMtVLlj2317qmoAjXZygpNpe9-FYJMBLbpjiifzcmW-fZyekcfR-ztlbdA7uPN2lG/s1600/539600_606707716017183_299253223_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEgxtO60cdO-tRmzImxXzGY1qcFpc3_gfwGarV0dE9MO1rpbrnO_3XZWzvlYBZ_nqtqAUS-COleyeMtVLlj2317qmoAjXZygpNpe9-FYJMBLbpjiifzcmW-fZyekcfR-ztlbdA7uPN2lG/s1600/539600_606707716017183_299253223_n.jpg" height="250" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Original painting by Vladimir Kush</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uQuWpjGusAgG5XL4qWQtuoog0OSTevXMeDUizOkgeMg1ApjaB9BLnqGbKDmLea_M6kPVTvK2ZBh2m_GCgVjgyBYZzF5hM5m4RnHLQjAfdXr4rV6LhJuBAn_QMhbO43_6HKjjbnSzUNtT/s1600/Molokai+Light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uQuWpjGusAgG5XL4qWQtuoog0OSTevXMeDUizOkgeMg1ApjaB9BLnqGbKDmLea_M6kPVTvK2ZBh2m_GCgVjgyBYZzF5hM5m4RnHLQjAfdXr4rV6LhJuBAn_QMhbO43_6HKjjbnSzUNtT/s1600/Molokai+Light.jpg" height="320" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">A poor picture of the Molokai Light, on the windswept tip of the Kalaupapa peninsula</span></b></i></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYIMERONZOAATl-ccvXrUw_wQBfn3r1nMHE7M5kO-o90swvxi8Har0J_CrFfWAu8K1Z-jAQdGHLX3C0jv83_042NOEyzDWrILTpkdie9h7kIFNGVJI1cqhmNfOCGTPlYNBYg-OL_LFRFwG/s1600/Father+Damien+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYIMERONZOAATl-ccvXrUw_wQBfn3r1nMHE7M5kO-o90swvxi8Har0J_CrFfWAu8K1Z-jAQdGHLX3C0jv83_042NOEyzDWrILTpkdie9h7kIFNGVJI1cqhmNfOCGTPlYNBYg-OL_LFRFwG/s1600/Father+Damien+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A statue of Father Damien, still gifted with leis today</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-645013456263487918.post-70806923718681623122014-03-05T10:11:00.000-08:002014-05-03T21:57:57.427-07:00Maui Interlude<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Although our time in Maui was marked by many quiet moments
on the water, most of our pictures seem to be land-based. After the experience
of being tethered to a seawall in secluded Radio Bay, we relished being in an
anchorage again---if a busy one---at Lahaina, and enjoyed the beautiful views
from the cockpit.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF0QECPMQpxP6Ux4RCuIe8nUa95JzfH4eAcmAPc3YNsMG3vvYBr2jyqbrTLrIZKMhW0THDpScp5QF6yRuexab77gfky732Q_h8R1oZNUJu94G7JkUHjjqZ-WvtrKriZ9fM__5MV9gmRML7/s1600/Lahaina+against+West+Maui+Mountains.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF0QECPMQpxP6Ux4RCuIe8nUa95JzfH4eAcmAPc3YNsMG3vvYBr2jyqbrTLrIZKMhW0THDpScp5QF6yRuexab77gfky732Q_h8R1oZNUJu94G7JkUHjjqZ-WvtrKriZ9fM__5MV9gmRML7/s1600/Lahaina+against+West+Maui+Mountains.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lahaina wharf against the West Maui mountains</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">We picked up one of the Lahaina Yacht Club (LYC) moorings in front of the old Lahaina waterfront. After we cleated off our mooring lines, I dove on the mooring to check out its condition. I was happy to see that our mooring was in excellent condition. The piece of chain attaching it to the cement pad at the bottom was new; it had two new shackles (both of them lock-wired) attaching the chain to the float and to the pick-up line. All of the eye splices (except the one on the boat end of the pick-up line) had either a metal or plastic thimble in them for chafe protection. As we had heard, the Lahaina Yacht Club does maintain their moorings. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">However, we have learned from the misfortunes of others that it is <i>always</i> necessary to check your mooring. </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The first mooring we had tried to pick up had a broken pick-up line. When we reported this to the yacht club, they were appreciative and stated that a survey of the moorings needed to be done because some of their positions (lat and long) were no longer as shown on their map. (They had been moved during previous maintenance.) Since the LYC had accepted our Seven Seas Cruising Association membership in lieu of a reciprocal yacht club membership and given us a "Visiting Yachtsman's" card, we volunteered to do the survey. We spent an hour in the dinghy one morning trying to locate all the LYC's moorings and assess their condition, and we used our hand-held GPS to record their current positions. We found half in usable condition, half with issues we could observe at the surface such as broken pick-up lines, missing markings, or unoccupied floats that were almost submerged from being positioned too deep. The yacht club thanked us for our work and stated that an overhaul of all the moorings was due this summer in order to prepare for the Victoria-Maui Race. As part of that work, the LYC plans to replace their current mooring floats with reflective ones. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While Hilo was the perfect place to re-enter the United
States, after seven weeks of its laid back pace, we were ready for a little
excitement. Lahaina was just the ticket. While the waterfront definitely caters
to tourists (have your picture taken with a macaw!) and is a hub for
sports fishing, whale watching, and snorkel and dive boats; and its street
front boasts eateries, boutiques, jewelry stores, souvenir shops, ice-cream parlors,
and art galleries galore; the infrastructure of the place remains low level in
stature, and there are people living non-tourism based lives in the hills above
the harbor. Lahaina had the same laid back and friendly vibe as Hilo but a
slightly faster pace. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We enjoyed wandering around the streets of
Lahaina, where we found both eclectic private residences and
historic buildings alike. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1OmU_ue2Bde-ENwuRebik5ujk8wFudKU3sC3rJlc3X629a14MalqLhF-222haEAqZE5Rh3VTdFAysZP-zA0lKez7PClvPB2Nek-whDnHwOqQxwp9eUVysZXPN_L1-9RxADJKazUwtBDA/s1600/Whimsical+Rock+Garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1OmU_ue2Bde-ENwuRebik5ujk8wFudKU3sC3rJlc3X629a14MalqLhF-222haEAqZE5Rh3VTdFAysZP-zA0lKez7PClvPB2Nek-whDnHwOqQxwp9eUVysZXPN_L1-9RxADJKazUwtBDA/s1600/Whimsical+Rock+Garden.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Whimsical stone garden spotted in Lahaina</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndO12lWMvb3wpSONbBGsVKLWetw35uMoLtUsjCiFO2PPfD6QiR5iJ7X5LJoG2RihB-yM7Rqkx_6LKNQI6p9yrdKTkJ_nGU6_N5eVvTfqNaSGv0nY4IsApw-oj5DIOsNN-Tb3ryYR-OHh9/s1600/Prison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndO12lWMvb3wpSONbBGsVKLWetw35uMoLtUsjCiFO2PPfD6QiR5iJ7X5LJoG2RihB-yM7Rqkx_6LKNQI6p9yrdKTkJ_nGU6_N5eVvTfqNaSGv0nY4IsApw-oj5DIOsNN-Tb3ryYR-OHh9/s1600/Prison.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The coral block stockade of this prison was used to "lock up rowdy sailors who failed to return to their ships at sundown as well as unruly natives."</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I spent some time one afternoon visiting an art gallery in
Lahaina and discovered a new surrealist painter---<a href="http://www.paintinghere.org/artist/vladimir_kush.html?gclid=CKL45rj68rwCFU5efgodIlcA0w" target="_blank">Vladimir Kush</a>---whose work I
liked. Mr. Kush is a multi-media artist, but I liked his paintings (and some of
his sculptures) the best. His work has echoes of Dali or Magritte, but are less
dark, containing images of transformation, hope, and love.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The most memorable parts of our time in Maui were our
encounters with humpback whales. I have never seen so many whales breach in all
my life! The whales seem to favor what the meteorologists around here call the
“Maui County leeward waters” (the sheltered waters around Maui, Lanai, and
Molokai). While you see whales in the channels, they seem to use the channels
in the same way sailboats do: to get
from one place to another. There are also humpback whales cavorting off the
islands of Hawai’i and Oahu, but you don’t see them in the same numbers as in
the Maui County leeward waters.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDRk4EW8_HBsTxTgQGGOmqnlggAbTHLkTb1QS51eQ0fFzEk1H07SbL6CBrilJF7FIPSR-GKhDzDagP42JAdwP0vUdiVeqocLk5UFngrP8cteVFFfWsuyocL8OUdgRwBFMoEsMZ9GXbrzH/s1600/Breaching+humpback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDRk4EW8_HBsTxTgQGGOmqnlggAbTHLkTb1QS51eQ0fFzEk1H07SbL6CBrilJF7FIPSR-GKhDzDagP42JAdwP0vUdiVeqocLk5UFngrP8cteVFFfWsuyocL8OUdgRwBFMoEsMZ9GXbrzH/s1600/Breaching+humpback.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Breaching humpback: Note second, smaller whale with spout, forward</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One very special encounter we had while anchored off of
Lahaina was to hear the mating calls of humpback whales through the boat’s
hull. I have always read about this but never experienced it first-hand. We
were lying in bed one night and heard the sonorous deep bellow and cow-like groans
of the male humpback being answered by the more high-pitched chirrup of the
female. The chorus was so loud that I ran up to the cockpit, expecting to
see---or at least hear---whales on the surface. Nothing. All this action was
taking place underwater.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdNGIe2kVyfyl-tJgZLwwgAVksTruxWykAffKRUSsxP0mabzvveGmiiSd7fXfabxno9F4gZ-r8qrfYefbgFCxJv1tws2NWaNPYKB9yIEuLLZIBitazsLrL1tTyHc1X-PP0lKqbBqWDsxW/s1600/Humpback+surfacing+near+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdNGIe2kVyfyl-tJgZLwwgAVksTruxWykAffKRUSsxP0mabzvveGmiiSd7fXfabxno9F4gZ-r8qrfYefbgFCxJv1tws2NWaNPYKB9yIEuLLZIBitazsLrL1tTyHc1X-PP0lKqbBqWDsxW/s1600/Humpback+surfacing+near+boat.jpg" height="201" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Surprise surfacing of a humpback near Silhouette while we were watching whales farther off</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsWMfHQpqp7NsVw-NoS1Picia7ucwrOKtOfD17rL8YHckf35LBro3UQvBoQkPHCOV_5mm9iseyvdUDZxpxuwajEKF_EJfiZKaSgKRcdQLOkrA1j6m-Xr3X3YoUvwGIO7vXS-E_hOKUcXi/s1600/Diving+humpback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsWMfHQpqp7NsVw-NoS1Picia7ucwrOKtOfD17rL8YHckf35LBro3UQvBoQkPHCOV_5mm9iseyvdUDZxpxuwajEKF_EJfiZKaSgKRcdQLOkrA1j6m-Xr3X3YoUvwGIO7vXS-E_hOKUcXi/s1600/Diving+humpback.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A humpback beginning a dive</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaNTWQT-RK_yY9ZxK29OGZQex-GhCLoaxHS2VolR2cN0T8RYp1LWgonvfq4CV2yrADvVbXWRxquYR-JTT5EV4WjwOlHRDLpZEbR8kil1_SoyqXB_Ly-L9vH8xqcI145pD-d4SDBFaFTKLw/s1600/Raggedy+flukes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaNTWQT-RK_yY9ZxK29OGZQex-GhCLoaxHS2VolR2cN0T8RYp1LWgonvfq4CV2yrADvVbXWRxquYR-JTT5EV4WjwOlHRDLpZEbR8kil1_SoyqXB_Ly-L9vH8xqcI145pD-d4SDBFaFTKLw/s1600/Raggedy+flukes.jpg" height="281" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ragged-edged flukes festooned with seaweed?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Another thing we enjoyed about Maui was its multicultural
feel. Although all of the Hawaiian islands are <a href="http://www.infoplease.com/us/census/data/hawaii/demographic.html" target="_blank">diverse</a>, this fact is really
celebrated in Maui. The day we arrived, we stumbled onto a Chinese New Year
celebration at a local shopping center, complete with martial arts
demonstrations and the “Lion Dance.” </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfTABNw4GPQZPcSokmL4uPaCEm78E8sSeujl41jrg9987MwuBW6CbgOH83IRLwrdEz_Y-7sSB7Xi22MwIDiLzHEMTHyZsp8vE16E6_5yRrFctS3FFRQjzNuZFCsBLBMuxFm8wjloVLZzM/s1600/Chinese+New+Year%27s+Celebration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfTABNw4GPQZPcSokmL4uPaCEm78E8sSeujl41jrg9987MwuBW6CbgOH83IRLwrdEz_Y-7sSB7Xi22MwIDiLzHEMTHyZsp8vE16E6_5yRrFctS3FFRQjzNuZFCsBLBMuxFm8wjloVLZzM/s1600/Chinese+New+Year's+Celebration.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Lion Dance</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Maui has a good public bus system, and we used a combination
of bus and taxi to make a side trip to the Iao Needle in Iao Valley State Park
near Wailuku. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufPrJ-l2_qbh3aMO8H3hogkD6AaB9Ka6HWLl7T_U7raQ-uPNXMr2wAWD3x_6jPpkElhZMNJ7jua9VMvBLQXd3Fzyl4DNgoHOHAT8_GK2pJAzrUFxmCxBW6PEHjIxWbqFGrAToKjRGjnNO/s1600/Io+Needle+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufPrJ-l2_qbh3aMO8H3hogkD6AaB9Ka6HWLl7T_U7raQ-uPNXMr2wAWD3x_6jPpkElhZMNJ7jua9VMvBLQXd3Fzyl4DNgoHOHAT8_GK2pJAzrUFxmCxBW6PEHjIxWbqFGrAToKjRGjnNO/s1600/Io+Needle+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Iao Needle, an erosional remnant, to left: locally known as Kuka'emoku, the phallic stone of Kanaloa, Hawaiian god of the ocean</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> We decided to walk back to the bus stop instead of taxi, and
on our way back we discovered a park containing a centennial garden in honor of
the first Japanese to emigrate to Hawai’i, as well as Korean and Puerto Rican
centennial memorials. These memorials, dedicated by the descendants of these
early immigrants, express gratitude for the sacrifices made by their
forbearers and celebrate the contributions that other cultures have made to the
history of Hawai’i. As the sugar cane industry grew throughout the islands in
the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, an immigrant labor force was imported from
China, Japan, the Philippines, Korea, Puerto Rico, and Portugal to work in the
cane fields. In a story mirroring what had earlier occurred on cotton plantations in the
south, white sugar barons in Hawai’i exploited a labor force made up of people
of color, affecting both race relations and the environment in Hawai’i for the
next century. While conditions for early workers on sugar plantations were not as
bad as for slaves on the mainland, they were like those of indentured servants.
However, at the end of the sugar plantation era, many of these immigrants
stayed on, growing their families and starting their own businesses in Hawai’i,
and life improved for succeeding generations. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDqvPYxQw-p0Dxvu169Izxjbw6IKU8v2gHif99by_WdDDBviQZeD0C9wiwpXS65Ifk1uUWF5r9w2iURe50c2w4NlPMx96ssyYA7UGcziyJDiSs-jEev3O6bdYeZ7Kp2_H-qZD1ZL8cTHX/s1600/Sugar+cane+workers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDqvPYxQw-p0Dxvu169Izxjbw6IKU8v2gHif99by_WdDDBviQZeD0C9wiwpXS65Ifk1uUWF5r9w2iURe50c2w4NlPMx96ssyYA7UGcziyJDiSs-jEev3O6bdYeZ7Kp2_H-qZD1ZL8cTHX/s1600/Sugar+cane+workers.jpg" height="400" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Statue of Japanese sugar cane workers in the Centennial Garden</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The plaque mounted at the base of this statue contained a moving tribute:</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>One hundred years ago the first government contract
immigrants from Japan set foot on these shores and entered the ranks of the
sugar industry labor force. By 1924, when Japanese immigration was effectively
ended by a new American immigration law, some two-hundred-thousand Japanese
both under contract and “free,” had come to Hawaii. Some returned to Japan or
moved on to the mainland United States. However, many remained and became the
pioneer generation of Japanese in Hawaii.</b></i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>
</b></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>
</b></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>These pioneers had the courage to leave their homeland and
to persevere in establishing themselves in a foreign land. They endured many
hardships and made many sacrifices which benefited their descendants and
contributed to the development of present day Hawaii. </b></i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>
</b></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>
</b></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>With solemn humbleness, heart-felt appreciation, and a sense
of reverence, we, the present beneficiaries, dedicate these bronze statues of
Japanese cane-field workers so that their aspirations, hardships, and
contributions—along with those of the pioneers from Hawaii’s many other ethnic
groups—will be remembered for generations. Our tears of gratitude now transcend
time to mingle with their tears of sacrifice. </b></i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>
</b></i></span></span><br />
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</b></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>Dedicated by the Maui Japanese Community, June 19, 1985</b></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibG4Q4I4hHSVPaM3cKG3C04QcBG7At__FiUtlSlDLbDU2W7r1rk7xyggvK-73DYm-TpqqvaLPTlE5b1rq4z1Buq0aer0RnwvvOU_Wki55zV3ZM5UezUQLYhat0rDD1b_h1Q4ahS3Sl0pZ2/s1600/Japanese+Centennial+Memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibG4Q4I4hHSVPaM3cKG3C04QcBG7At__FiUtlSlDLbDU2W7r1rk7xyggvK-73DYm-TpqqvaLPTlE5b1rq4z1Buq0aer0RnwvvOU_Wki55zV3ZM5UezUQLYhat0rDD1b_h1Q4ahS3Sl0pZ2/s1600/Japanese+Centennial+Memorial.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A pagoda in the Centennial Garden on Maui</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> In many ways the story of Hawai’i---like the story of
mainland U.S.A.---is the story of past exploitation that has changed for the
better. One of the places we visited on Maui was a whaling museum in an
unlikely location---a mall called “Whaler’s Village”---which we never would
have visited without my <i>Lonely Planet</i>
travel guide. The museum had models of whaling ships and whale boats, a well
preserved collection of whaling implements and artifacts, and a large
collection of scrimshaw and items made out of whalebone by whalers. There, I
saw my first “whaler’s valentine,” which was an ornate boxed or framed design
whalers made out of tropical shells found during their voyage for their
sweethearts back home. I learned that whalers used rubber stamps to detail the
condition of whales sighted and caught during the day in the ship’s log. Detailed
interpretive signage (as well as an audio tour) informed visitors both about
the whaling process and what it was like to be a sailor on a whaleboat. While I
am against whaling today (with the possible exception of the Inuit who have few
other food sources), I can still appreciate what a challenging and dangerous
life whalers must have led. The museum is nicely done because while it details
the grisly process of whaling in history, a central theater plays a video highlighting the nature of our changing
relationship with whales today through research and human encounters with whales
through whale-watching and ecotourism. </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Indeed, in Lahaina and elsewhere throughout Hawai’i,
whale-watching tours are a mainstay of the tourist industry. A cynic might say
that humans are still exploiting whales for profit (which is true on one
level), but the difference is that today the exploiters are also engendering a
sense of appreciation for whales and a desire to protect them. I was impressed
while observing the whale-watching boats in Lahaina that by and large, they
kept the legal distance from the whales and did not crowd the whales. This is
different from other countries we have visited, such as Tonga, whose
whale-watching industries are less regulated. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There are two wildlife sanctuaries on Maui, Kanaha Pond State
Wildlife Sanctuary on the north side of the island and Kealia Pond National
Wildlife Refuge on the south, which are home to native birds like the Hawaiian
stilt and coot and are also resting stops for migrating birds. We visited
Kanaha Pond on a bus trip to Kahului. Kanaha Pond is not in a particularly
scenic location, set as it is among highways, a Maui Oil plant, a recycling
center, and a wastewater treatment center. While it took us some time to find
the entrance to the refuge that gave access to its walking paths (this entrance
is off Amala Rd., not the more obvious gate with a viewing blind on the airport
frontage road), we did enjoy the refuge once we got inside. We did not see the
diversity of species we expected, but we saw hundreds of stilts, a few coots,
more nene, egrets, and a large variety of herons.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Hawaiian stilt, or <i>ae’o</i>
in Hawaiian, is a subspecies of the black-neck stilt of North America. A <a href="http://eeinhawaii.blogspot.com/2009/07/native-species-of-week-hawaiian-stilt.html" target="_blank">fun fact</a> about this bird is that it has the second longest legs in proportion to
its body, only bested by the flamingo.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHq5WWt9JfwaNWFZUg_wupIVBUsVAfsxM9xEz9CmrtdAAorCdwimF_GbmHzkRr-mN7I611M2_aJX2XO73Me95Uu7eagQdGRhPDBI3eanjk6DyVX6jNiZi57IrDthXRfAcpbsU7lDgdGdM/s1600/Hawaiian+stilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHq5WWt9JfwaNWFZUg_wupIVBUsVAfsxM9xEz9CmrtdAAorCdwimF_GbmHzkRr-mN7I611M2_aJX2XO73Me95Uu7eagQdGRhPDBI3eanjk6DyVX6jNiZi57IrDthXRfAcpbsU7lDgdGdM/s1600/Hawaiian+stilt.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hawaiian stilts in Kanaha Pond</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofwowmksS1vgfq-hgLLY48U-uV2Qd4hmLgeAFi7tAfSQxqbo3OlugGJLdgRUMyNWtY8kVbNg1zKUqKvkhRDSvya77qb5wjKB0SV9wDaTnqI-KA2tQQ-JA3uxLVrgJ1bz3UoJDZZnkPC-n/s1600/Black-crowned+night+heron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofwowmksS1vgfq-hgLLY48U-uV2Qd4hmLgeAFi7tAfSQxqbo3OlugGJLdgRUMyNWtY8kVbNg1zKUqKvkhRDSvya77qb5wjKB0SV9wDaTnqI-KA2tQQ-JA3uxLVrgJ1bz3UoJDZZnkPC-n/s1600/Black-crowned+night+heron.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A sub-adult black-crowned night heron</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVhyphenhyphenoVIskxdlUyRH94fCPQpks_tIXs-0ZVIWzEUiLvnQEjh9wFDiaVl-k4pziso8jQaAMxP0Yj3TrvU_MwkCTL8vtFst8gw2RtL7c_mJNFR3heXSrHShTFJRwaygO4egmJtTJHrBHcmaZP/s1600/Hunting+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVhyphenhyphenoVIskxdlUyRH94fCPQpks_tIXs-0ZVIWzEUiLvnQEjh9wFDiaVl-k4pziso8jQaAMxP0Yj3TrvU_MwkCTL8vtFst8gw2RtL7c_mJNFR3heXSrHShTFJRwaygO4egmJtTJHrBHcmaZP/s1600/Hunting+2.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Adult black crowned night heron with white feather plume</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluh2IdAj9w-QRN5jlJtHVNethmkBg5apx1zvqLMV0sjZDrEvTgLDp7r1Tr3cyLu9IgeLveQsfCSxR5b1dirLUMeKgX44_LE2IjmXEailXme8xTMC_DiDDykGGELp4kQ6YHypVYEUX3ZcC/s1600/Hunting+heron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluh2IdAj9w-QRN5jlJtHVNethmkBg5apx1zvqLMV0sjZDrEvTgLDp7r1Tr3cyLu9IgeLveQsfCSxR5b1dirLUMeKgX44_LE2IjmXEailXme8xTMC_DiDDykGGELp4kQ6YHypVYEUX3ZcC/s1600/Hunting+heron.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hunting heron</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we were wandering through the bird sanctuary, we came across several types of what we thought must be old World War II ruins. These bunkers had been camouflaged with sod, and I like the way that nature is reclaiming them. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00L_Gb-RTag8ovOY0pexWjBnYlXDhKoF3UqZxxG-ZHlheixPgwFK0ZjKD-norDtDuzehIgvtQK1SlEQrsB-iQ6f36Qw5PaJoYE1dXOd76ptmL6IeH4OHf-VPGNbDbH6dcELqdUndzQOcA/s1600/WWII+bunkers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00L_Gb-RTag8ovOY0pexWjBnYlXDhKoF3UqZxxG-ZHlheixPgwFK0ZjKD-norDtDuzehIgvtQK1SlEQrsB-iQ6f36Qw5PaJoYE1dXOd76ptmL6IeH4OHf-VPGNbDbH6dcELqdUndzQOcA/s1600/WWII+bunkers.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Possibly old munitions bunkers?</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhHpWOsgrr8N5PyU-mI_xfcvELpbw3bqYDQng0MFrncVtngwN4-ymd-x0KlA_cgnIStH_rjs0MBij85AVxFTsPK9ZEkVikxn6pj1owNcO4x9Jan1HYfCprsrkOZg9Tfn9YxAv5_TJwXiD/s1600/Nene+pair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhHpWOsgrr8N5PyU-mI_xfcvELpbw3bqYDQng0MFrncVtngwN4-ymd-x0KlA_cgnIStH_rjs0MBij85AVxFTsPK9ZEkVikxn6pj1owNcO4x9Jan1HYfCprsrkOZg9Tfn9YxAv5_TJwXiD/s1600/Nene+pair.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Like the ones we saw on Kilauea, this pair of nene was also banded</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiuplnpG2q6XF5xHmlaXf5GaXsEPgGwjdec5JwoLUHjlbSNEUdXEFx4KdJZXqk8kCzfza5Vh_0dwT4ZOxRSOyOHJmJtGUJ6fomkgIS9VbjOs-_YwkT-WdOZfAfdCCh0nv4mQOlvxXR1KQE/s1600/Male+nene+display.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiuplnpG2q6XF5xHmlaXf5GaXsEPgGwjdec5JwoLUHjlbSNEUdXEFx4KdJZXqk8kCzfza5Vh_0dwT4ZOxRSOyOHJmJtGUJ6fomkgIS9VbjOs-_YwkT-WdOZfAfdCCh0nv4mQOlvxXR1KQE/s1600/Male+nene+display.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Male nene display</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZNyA7NjsRwPy5ZLvzr0yfI-AHDeZX-dF1nACDWN5GRQMc96TmoFN_yS6KmVbUJ1hwYHPnkh-Eg2sLKbVRu1BmSJyxhEicFCtwSSJcl6-sImpYNJALKrnd_XslNDYT_579u-w6RZ5hIhfJ/s1600/Heron+in+flight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZNyA7NjsRwPy5ZLvzr0yfI-AHDeZX-dF1nACDWN5GRQMc96TmoFN_yS6KmVbUJ1hwYHPnkh-Eg2sLKbVRu1BmSJyxhEicFCtwSSJcl6-sImpYNJALKrnd_XslNDYT_579u-w6RZ5hIhfJ/s1600/Heron+in+flight.jpg" height="316" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A heron takes off in flight</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRyKQ0JJl62QpST23uB94ZLZvwlAVnvdN79fLQ-UgzsM0imAGWcbJthZ5LzL3xFmudWkI6nKOxR_whNg0NmPjcI4bMg5emNaYPFvdkAJ8QfNpSVZoKBg7-Qw7JbDO3MSma_oDKF2pXIGI5/s1600/Stilt+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRyKQ0JJl62QpST23uB94ZLZvwlAVnvdN79fLQ-UgzsM0imAGWcbJthZ5LzL3xFmudWkI6nKOxR_whNg0NmPjcI4bMg5emNaYPFvdkAJ8QfNpSVZoKBg7-Qw7JbDO3MSma_oDKF2pXIGI5/s1600/Stilt+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Native Hawaiian stilt with introduced Indian mynah in foreground (blurred): Mynahs in the Pacific are as numerous as starlings on the mainland</span></span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Before departing Maui, we made a stop at Honolua Bay on its northwest side, which is
supposed to be one of the best snorkeling spots on Maui. Unfortunately, the bay
was too crowded with snorkel tour boats (and the snorkelers themselves) to
allow <i>Silhouette</i> to safely anchor,
and it was too windy for Patrick to allow the boat to drift while I snorkeled.
After checking out the bay and deciding against a snorkel stop, we set sail for
the island of Molokai. </span></span></div>
SV Silhouettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584641746877990703noreply@blogger.com3